Toronto Reviews – Page 12 – Fare..Eat..Ales

Tasty Thursdays:Staring at Hot Bunzz and Liking Babis

July 27, 2013August 6, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

Waves were made in the city of Toronto when it was finally announced that there would be some relaxation of the strict by-laws that have plagued gourmet food trucks for years. One of the olive branches has been Tasty Thursdays, an initiative “produced” by the city of Toronto. Every Thursday in July and August, Nathan Phillips square comes alive with a variety of tents and food trucks offering an array of snack foods, all for under $7.

By the looks of it, it has been quite successful. There were long lines at each vendor while the regular food trucks and stands lining Queen Street sat there sulking with arms crossed and no lines despite promising the best hot dog in town. It seems street meat falls by the wayside when hungry diners can choose from Indian, Caribbean, Greek, Indonesian. Thai, Malaysia, Mediterranean, fresh salads, Canadian and food truck favourite the Food Dudes. The vendors will switch up in August but promise an equally diverse smorgasbord. As mentioned, the lines were long, especially at the trucks. so I strategically maneuvered around the crowds to find something I wanted while still being able to avoid rush hour two hours later. In the end, I opted for a visit to Hot Bunzz (international with Canadian focus) and Babi and Co. (Indonesian).

Tasty Thursday at Nathan Phillips Square

Hot Bunzz

The concept is simple; take freshly cooked buns and stuff them with something fun. While in line, I had “food truck fear”,meaning as time goes on and you are paralyzed in line, there is the increased risk of diminishing options. My fear was somewhat realized when the black tape came out and the elk bun was scratched from the menu like a race horse with a last minute injury. That said, when I reached the front of the line I still had three choices.

I opted for the bison short rib and the Wisconsin three cheese with spinach and mushroom. The buns have great eye appeal and were crispy on the outside and soft on the middle, the perfect house for the filling in that it didn’t succumb to possible sogginess. The short rib had a strong coriander flavour and was a tad oversalted but the meat was tender and ample. The spinach was lost in the mushroom and cheese but the filling worked as a whole. In the end, these are a bit more than a snack and bit less than a meal but really nicely priced at 2/$6.

Bison Short Rib and Three Cheese. Spinach and mushroom — Bison short rib and Three Cheese, spinach and mushroom Hotbunzz 2/$6

Babi and Co.

This pop-up offers snack food with an Indonesian spin. On this day, it was Mami’s Sate Babi and Babi on a bun. Normally six bucks each, there was a 2 for $10 special. The sate was safe…well marinated strip of pork synonymous with what you would find in most izakaya bars in Toronto. The Babi was well constructed with nicely seasoned pork belly, a crispy yet light bun, sambal mayo for a little kick and pickled cucumber to round it out. Once again, it was safe but struck all the elements of a well-balanced snack. From a value perspective, I think, even with the multibuy discount, the price sits on the upper cusp of acceptable especially when compared to Hot Bunzz.

hhhh — Mami’s Sate Babi and Babi on a bun $10

On another note, the vendors at both tents were very pleasant and the passion was relayed in their food. It was a pleasure to watch the meticulous yet jubilant execution of each snack despite the tight confines of the makeshift shelter.

My Take

In a city that prides itself on diversity, the presence of a variety of ethnic street food is noticeably absent. Tasty Thursdays seems to be an effort to address this discrepancy. At the same time, it recognizes the long term battle food trucks have had with the Toronto politicians over selling their wares on city property; a battle which will have some resolution starting August 1st when trucks will be allowed in 5 parks across Toronto. I still chuckle over the fact that this event is produced by the city of Toronto, making it sound like it’s some sort of self-promoting documentary starring the fine folks in city hall who sit on their collective asses stalling on decisions which promote free enterprise (hell, it will even keep food inspectors busy). In a way, maybe it is like a film, with the ultimate intention being an increased awareness of small business and the cornucopia of food they have to offer beyond hot dogs, burgers and big gulps. If anything, when Torontonians hear the term “Hot Bunzz”, they may recognize it as something other than a name Rob Ford may have used to describe Sarah Thomson during a drunken stupor at any given city event.

Review:Toronto:Baldwin Village:Kekou Gelato House

July 26, 2013July 28, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

I stumbled upon this quiet gelato house while on a stroll along Baldwin Street in Toronto. It’s hard to find anything online about Kekou other than a humble website which appears hidden among the relics of the Little Video Shop reviews during a google search. Gone are the copies of John Hughes and Die Hard movies but the gelato remains..this time infused with Asian flavours synonymous with the Baldwin Street experience. Take, for example, the variety posted on their website:

Ginger Milk
Cashew
Peanut Sesame
Black Sesame
Jasmine Tea
Vanilla Lotus Seed
Green Bean Coconut
Vietnamese Coffee
Red Bean White Chocolate
Jackfruit
Durian
Lemon Chrysanthemum
Guava Plum Salt
Mango
Spicy Mango
Strawberry-Lychee

The last five are dairy free. I’m unsure if all (dairy or non) are available all the time but the variety was great when I popped in. Sampling is available, so I tasted the durian, intrigued by whether the stinky fruit would translate into an icy treat. It worked. In the end, I opted for Spicy Mango and Strawberry-Lychee together in a small cup for $3.75. The mango was creamy despite no dairy (I have a friend of mine who swears no dairy will do wonders for my skin). It had an ever so subtle spicy kick. The strawberry-lychee was icy good, well balanced and refreshing.

Strawberry-Lychee and Spicy Mango Gelato $3.25

The store itself is as humble as the website. Hand-written tags and an old school ice cream parlour sign hang in contrast within the otherwise pristine and modern decor. I’d like to witness the Effe Vertical mixer in action in their open kitchen but it was dormant during my visit.

My Take

In a city where the gelato juggernauts seem to reside in midtown, the resurrection of the cold treat is a welcome addition to Baldwin street, this time with an Asian flavour twist. It’s a quiet recluse and although I can’t walk out with a copy of the Accidental Spy (great ice cream scene by the way) , it might end up a quiet little spot I hit during my regular jaunts up and down University Avenue and if the heat happens to make me a little smelly, I’ll just blame the durian.

Review:Toronto:Roncesvalles:Barque

July 24, 2013July 24, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

After walking up and down Roncesvalles during a festival, I looked at my phone and realized it was close to five. Knowing that Barque opened then and they hold a percentage of the place for walk-ins, I grabbed the kids and trekked to the front doors. I felt like I was trying to get a wristband for the MMVAs. It did change my assumption that the only people who eat at 5 pm are kids and senior citizens. I broke a mild sweat as the place gradually filled. When it got to my turn, I mustered up my request. She looked apologetic and informed me that the only seats left were those at the bar facing the kitchen. I couldn’t stifle the smile and said “Done!” as we were directed to our seats.

The decor strays from the traditional smokehouse and resembles something you would expect in the west end of Toronto. I was a bit relieved to see a number of children peppered throughout the smallish venue and on the decent sized patio out back. As soon as we were seated, the show began.One of the sous chefs wheeled out about 150 lbs of brisket and methodically prepared it for the smoker. He pulled out a chunk of brisket and infused each with a large syringe filled with some magic elixir and transferred it to a tray. He looked like a cross between Bruce Lee and Dr. Frankenstein. Upon completion, he set the smoker at 175F and threw it in. I was surprised at the low temperature and it made me think I could have thrown a brisket on my porch last week with this summer weather and had the same result.

Oddly enough, they feature four or five beer from the McAuslan line which is a bit of an oddity considering the possibilities in the GTA alone. Nonetheless, it’s a decent brewery to hang your hat on and I started with a pale ale.

The menu features standard starters and mains but also a number of sampler options, so there is a bit a science to ensuring you get the right amount of food. I was rather intrigued by the Barque plate, which is sample of some unique dishes made each evening. On this day, it was a tagliatelle with bison meatballs, fried calamari, pulled pork tacos and crostini. The highlight was the pasta. The rest was decent. Ok…I confess, I didn’t inform the kids of the bison until afterwards but they found the dish delicious.

Next I opted for the Barque Sampler for 2 and chose ribs, brisket and sausage as the mains with caesar salad, slaw and fries as the sides. The brisket was the highlight, a testament to the meticulous process we witnessed earlier. It was crazy tender and seasoned well. I’ll give props to the remainder of the platter as well. The ribs were well seasoned and the sausages were not dried out and had a good flavour. The asian slaw (which does not look like it’s on the menu anymore) was delicious. I left the caesar salad to my son who reported it was good although the bacon “tasted kind of different” perhaps because it’s not my standard practice to serve candied bacon at home. My daughter’s report on the fries were a resounding thumbs up although she’s not a fan of dipping sauces in general.

I have a hard time turning down smoked chicken (both from a taste and having to have the serving staff reassure me that pink chicken is cooked perspective) and this night was no exception. This time I went with the cuban corn and pickles as the sides. The chicken was smoky and tender and the corn, although a little overcooked, was spiced nicely. A decent array of pickles were presented which included beets, asparagus, cucumber, cauliflower and onion.I think pickles are a smart side to add a little acid and crunch to an otherwise rich and chewy meal.

Some smokehouses pride themselves on an array of sauces but Barque less so. There are two offered in a ramekin with a sauce brush. One was a standard tangy red BBQ sauce and one a carolina style mustard sauce. I found both tasty although I sort of forgot about them in the midst of everything else.

The dessert menu featured a few southern inspired sweets fused with a little Toronto trendiness. The key lime cheesecake was surprising light and laced with a subtle amount of cardamom that worked well. The mango was a bit irrelevant but added some nice colour. The gelato, coupled with a couple of homemade cookies, looked with a nouveau, deconstructed Neapolitan but with cappuccino replacing the chocolate. I hated chocolate ice cream as a kid, so a dead give away of my freezer mischief was a container of Neapolitan with only the strawberry and vanilla missing. I was often caught pink and white handed.

Barque Gelato and Cookies $9 — Barque and Gelato Cookies $9

My Take

Barque has succeeded in bringing the smokehouse into the Roncesvalles realm. It appeals to atmosphere seeking hipsters as much as it does those who crave carnivorous delight. The price point is decent although if you fall prey to the numerous choices, it can push up the final bill rather quickly. The highlight is clearly the brisket (which was outstanding), followed by the ribs and chicken which would compete in any neighbourhood cook-off. There’s the token fish and vegetarian dishes for the pescas and vegans respectively. The barque plate (4 small bites for $16) is a smart idea but hinges on the creativity of the chef on a given night and on this night it was a bit boring. I’ll give an A for the tagliatelle, a B for the pork belly tacos and maybe a C for the squid and crostini. The single line beer (McAuslan) is a bit confusing given the array of options that would fit with a smokehouse. There is ample wine and a few cocktails which, like Barque itself, are inspired not only by the south but by Toronto itself. There are a lot of smarts about the place including sampling platters to taste either the signatures or the daily inspirations of the chef or the Sunday night feature which reintroduces the concept of sharing family style. In the end, Barque is a chic smokehouse with Toronto flair serving among many things candied bacon that may not meet the standards of a 10 year old pork traditionalist.

Review:Little Italy and Portugal Village:Darwin

July 11, 2013July 11, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

So a family from Bangladesh opens a french bistro in Little Italy and names it after an English naturalist. That’s Darwin. OK…allow me to put it into perspective. The owners did hire a french chef and even though it’s in Little Italy, it joins the onslaught of non-Mediterranean restaurants (Bar Isabel, Bestellen and Woodlot for example) which has opened in the area. Finally, according to the owners, the name pays homage to a man who adhered to a philosophy of “survival of the fittest”, a saying which is especially pertinent in the restaurant business.

I took one look at the menu and was intrigued to check it out. In essence, it’s primarily a French menu with some international flare at very reasonable prices. For example, most appetizers and cocktails are under $10 bucks and the 12 oz steak and frites comes in at $25.

Unfortunately, I picked the night of the great flood of 2013 to venture out. Thinking it was a good thing that humans evolved from fish, I waded down College St., umbrella in hand and found my destination at College and Grace. Not surprisingly, it wasn’t too busy although a table of four older ladies was keeping the place alive. The decor is modern, a fusion of a traditional bistro and a trattoria. It’s a narrow space with a full wall mirror on one side and brick wall on the other (so it looks a bit bigger) that ends suddenly at a largish wooden bar that matches the rustic accented tables (although the legs are central so I did the stupid almost tip the table over thing a couple of times). There was one waiter who was a pleasant and knowledgeable guy with 15 years in the business who was most insightful and attentive during the evening.

An interesting twist on the classic drink, I started with a maple old fashioned made with Crown Royal in conjunction with the traditional ingredients and a touch of maple syrup. It was a pleasant blend and without abundant sweetness.

I opted for the shrimp cocktail ($10) which was also a spin on the original. The shrimp were spiced, cooked and served warm on a bed of creamed avocado. The menu promised mango as well, but I find the tiny cubes were few and far between, adding little to the dish. The avocado was fresh and simple and lacked the additional flavours present in guacamole and other popular dips and spreads. The shrimp was a little salty and swam in an excessive amount of green but there was a balance which made it pretty good.

The moules and frites ($12) were another classic dish presented with a twist. The broth was reminiscent of a tom yum soup, bursting with south asian flavours. It was served with a spoon, an addition the very helpful waiter admitted was an afterthought after numerous requests. I found myself lapping the broth up as well. The frites were delicately done, fried “just to done” and seasoned with perfect amounts salt and rosemary. I would have loved a half a french baguette (for authenticity you know) to soak up all the remaining broth.

I shied away from the steak frites and instead went for the sauteed chicken on aligot mashed potato, a classic french dish. The chicken was moist although a bit underseasoned. The potatoes were surprisingly light and swam in a pool of tasty sauce. Overall, it was a decent dish and came in at an impressive $18. I paired it with a glass of Domaine de Joy “Cuvee Etolle” Blanc from France at a very reasonable $9.

Sauteed Chicken with Aligot Mashed Potatoes $18

On another note, I love sorrel and each of the dishes was garnished with this delightful and underutilized herb. It has a great taste, a mix of earthy, acid and sweet which complements most dishes quite nicely.

Although there is no formal dessert menu, there are a few choices which include a rum, banana bread pudding and homemade lemon tart. I opted for the former. It’s prepared individually in a ceramic dish and doused with chocolate sauce. I’m normally not a fan of chocolate in general, especially on bread pudding but this sauce was stunning, a perfect balance of sweet and bitter. In general, the dessert was not sickly sweet and the cloud-like bread mixed with the smooth sauce and small scoop of ice cream was textural bliss. The accompanying cappuccino was not great, but maybe we will leave that one to the Italians.

My Take

This place reminds me that good food can still be served at a reasonable price, a near forgotten philosophy that has kept many restaurants in business for decades. Not only was Darwin known for his belief in “survival of the fittest” ( by the way, for Jeopardy fans the term “survival of the fittest” was first coined by Herbert Spencer, not Charles Darwin), he was obviously known for his theory of evolution, another concept important in the survival of a restaurant. Darwin has plans…big plans. The waiter offered a quick tour of the large back patio which will be a stellar hangout once it is licensed. The idea is to have a raw bar and grill given the fact that the kitchen is quite small and would have difficulty handling more than the 35 or so seats in the main dining room. The menu is also under constant revision. Recently, the duck breast has been replaced with confit; the trout with salmon.

Darwin has a fresh decor and a decent menu with refreshing pricing. There are a number of cocktails and appetizers under $10 and no entrees for more than $25. Despite the prices, there is no compromise when it came to quality. The highlights were the moules (sneak in a baguette) and the bread pudding. The key to success will be an adherence to the foundations of the french menu without the standard pretension and pricing of other bistros coupled with an evolutionary philosophy and a damn good back patio…and maybe some help from Noah’s Ark on night’s like this..but wait…it is called Darwin afterall.

Review:Toronto:Financial District:Stock Restaurant

July 2, 2013July 3, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

Any blog that has anything to do with Donald Trump means the possible insertion of jokes about getting fired, bad hair or something to do with the apprentice.

A team function brought me to Stock, located on the 31st floor of Trump Tower. There’s a couple of things I would expect when dining at a restaurant affiliated with Donald Trump; waiters with bad hair (dammit!) and at least one staff member getting fired every night (D’oh!). Seriously, I would hope to view a few self-entitled pretentious patrons and enjoy a dining experience with unparamount attention to detail.

For goal number one, it didn’t take long. Upon arrival, I was handed a very good glass of what I recall was a Spy Valley Sauvignon Blanc and shuffled out to the balcony for some hors d’oeuvres. It was a chilly night, so I wasn’t surprised to see a couple (ie. man and woman) enjoying a couple of fine cigars and swirling some sort of amber potable while seated in the corner of the balcony as the waiters circulated with appetizers in hand . Since it was a chilly eve, they were wearing matching fur shawls. Whether supplied by the hotel or not, it’s pretty irrelevant. MATCHING FUR SHAWLS! Awesome. Mission accomplished (sorry no picture).

As for the hors d’oeuvres, I was offered prosciutto wrapped scallops, shucked oysters with fresh horse radish and fried portobello mushrooms with truffle aioli. The proscitto was a delicate diversion from the usual bacon and provided enough salt to balance the buttery sweet scallop which was cooked perfectly. The oyster was fresh and meaty. I must digress on the mushroom as I have publicly called for the banishment of both truffle and aioli as a food trend. Eating this simple finger food makes me want to take it all back. The mushroom was moist and the batter crispy….and yes, the aioli was good.

It was a set menu but I found the choices innovative and appealing. My starter was the octopus. It was executed well….still tender and fired properly (ok..stopping). It was seasoned well and the tender potato added some delicate earthiness to complement this treasure from the sea.

For the entree, I ordered black cod with an edamame puree and lightly fried greens. The well seasoned flesh was glistening but wasn’t raw. The fork cut through it like butter and tasted the same. The subtle crunch of the crispy vegetables was the perfect complement from both a taste and texture perspective. From the land side, I managed to secure a small portion of the filet which was served with a vibrant pink hue indicative of a good medium rare..simple but satisfying.

Dessert was from the chocolate cart which circulated while peddling its house made wares to patrons like an ice cream truck in a subdivision. A sinful array of truffles and other delicacies weaved through the tables offering rich and artisan delicacies which were another example of the delicious attention to detail which was evident throughout the evening.

The meal finished with some Niagara ice wines and a tasty Taylor Fladgate, 10 yr old tawny port which was simply delicious.

My Take

I expected dinner at Stock to be a adventure in posh dining and a possible fulfillment of my champagne wishes and caviar dreams. Instead of white linens, candlelight and a waiter named Jeeves, the decor was casual and comfortable and the food was the standard fare you would see at any other eatery in the area. The concepts were simple and the execution was near flawless.

Ok….I did take a quick peak at the online dinner menu and the prices were quite acceptable and rival some of the higher end restaurants in Toronto. The octopus is $17, the cod $34 and the filet is $42. The truffles are $3 a piece.

In the end, I got what I was looking for…my paparazzi experience, a good wine/port buzz and a well executed meal from start to finish. Donald, thanks for making Toronto a better place to dine, one fur shawl at a time.

Toronto:Coffee:Queen East:Mercury Espresso Bar

June 27, 2013June 27, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

It’s a daunting task when you driving down Queen East from downtown at 7:30 am looking for a place to grab a coffee and maybe a bite. The classic hot spots such as Lady Marmalade, Bonjour Brioche and Tulip are still waking up so the liquid remedy of coffee with the possibility of a pastry may be all that exists.

I progressed down the empty street, sun in my eyes and saw a Starbucks on the right and parked, ready to succumb to over roasted coffee and a generic breakfast sandwich. Instead, I spied the Mercury Espresso bar, which has a relative smallness of the planet itself. I walked into a small line, staring down as I flipped the plastic between my fingers, almost convincing myself this was a cash only joint and I would have to cross the street or find a high service ATM in the vicinity. I let the question “Do you take credit?” squeak out of my mouth. The answer was a resounding yes…minus AMEX of course. With that, I ordered an americano. He did have a shade of baristattitude, but he kept it in the realm of confident versus cocky. In order to get the bill up a bit, I ordered a nutella cookie as a compromise to the sandwich I would have ordered at Starbucks. I was also interested in the coffee on the shelf and chose a Matalapa from El Salvador roasted by George Howell which subsequently has turned out to be a fabulous cup of joe at home.

The americano is one of the better I have had in a while. It was smooth and like a flower garden; complete with fragrant blossoms and was neither under or over watered. The cookie was pretty good too.

My Take

Mercury will be a regular stop on my way to the office, although I’m only there half a dozen times a year. I will also grab a bag of coffee while I’m at it. There’s nothing special about the place other than the brew (and maybe the daily trivia question) and I suspect the bright sun, slight breeze and serenity of an empty Toronto street may have catalyzed the experience, but I’ll take it over of the many possible destinations of the timbucktoos scattered along the route regardless of the time of day.

Review:Toronto:St Lawrence:Pacific Junction Hotel

June 15, 2013June 16, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

Pacific junction hotel is a newish joint on King East. The exterior blue gives this place away at street level and the inside is even more eccentric. It looks like a garage sale gone wrong, complete with a bathtub posing as a seat, formica tables and mismatched chairs ranging from cast iron to benches. A large TV hangs over the dining room and at the time was projecting life size images of Guy Fieri biting into sloppy sandwiches.

Although it sounds like it should be in Vancouver, I imagine the name of the restaurant has something to do with the fact that it’s a mix of food found in countries with some association with the Pacific Ocean. It’s sort of an Asia meets Mexico thing, with a little South America thrown in for good measure. Oddly, there’s also a bit of the Atlantic ocean added in the form of a few jerk recipes. You can choose among wraps and rolls,burgers, tacos or a mishmash of standard bar food including nachos or artichoke dip. There are a few vegetarian options as well.

The menus were thrown on the table and the waitress quickly disappeared. They looked well-used, a few pages of printed paper housed with duo tangs that probably had everything from hot sauce to draught beer spilled all over it. The cocktails feature rum or tequila/mezcal, served in a mason jar or a bowl. There are also a few beer (either in a jar or a pitcher) available as well. I opted for a jalapeno/pineapple mojito in a large jar for $9.30. It was minty and sweet although the added flavours were almost undetectable. I should of savored it more but I was unaware it would be the only drink I was having on this night.

I started with bison sliders for $13. Each were topped with a different concoction of flavours although I was particularly interested in the blueberry compote. They arrived in a Asian bamboo steamer. The patties were overdone, charred to the point where the toppings (even the blueberry!) couldn’t save them. The chips were hidden in the second steamer beneath and were ordinary and unseasoned but were made a bit better with a slather of hot sauce sitting at the table.

Next were the chimichurri tacos (3 for$12). It’s almost tearful to watch beef tenderloin cooked beyond recognition. Even the shells were overdone and cracked when I attempted to bend them. The intense heat and acid I expect from a good chimichurri was absent.

At this point, with my mojito drained in an attempt to offset the dry meat (I wasn’t so much as offered a water at any point in the evening) I ordered one of the half dozen or so draught beer available. Perhaps she was upset at the fact I asked her to recite the choices (I had to laugh because one of them was simply “IPA”), but I never saw it. She walked by a few times and scanned the table but no pint arrived despite the fact I had no drinking vessel anywhere is my vicinity.

Spinach dip is an iconic bar food that’s a bit difficult to master. In addition to flavour, it needs to achieve that optimal solidity window, meaning it’s neither too runny or too thick. The dip hit the mark in flavour, but once it cooled a bit, it was near impossible to navigate through it, especially with the skinny, generic, rainbow nachos chips (yes, 2005 called and they want their trend back).

Finally, there were the spring wraps. More commonly called spring rolls, they are usually available for about $4 at any Thai restaurant (maybe $5 if they throw shrimp in it). The price points at the junction were $8 and $12 respectively. Both the rolls and the side sauce were pretty average and not worth the price, even with dry tortilla thingys on the side.

My Take

Serving overcooked bison sliders in a bamboo steamer is not fusion…..it’s confusion. The tacos were average at best and the mango spring rolls were overpriced. The artichoke dip was flavorful but once it cooled below the dipping point the frail chips didn’t stand a chance. The service was not good.

In other words, Pacific Junction Hotel reminds me of going to that house in the neighbourhood with the guy who entertains out of his cluttered garage. Everybody calls him Uncle Gus because he burns his eyebrows off twice a year singeing meat with a three foot flame while the wife attempts to cook ethnic food with bottled sauces and her fingers crossed. Their disgruntled daughter is forced to help serve as opposed to locking herself in her room to share anecdotes of her embarrassing parents with her facebook friends. Even worse, the six-pack you bring over to drown the predicted pain suddenly disappears and you’re left drinkless for the remainder of the evening and develop a increasing desire to drink out of the garden hose.

Much like the Bermuda Triangle may be the bane of the Atlantic Ocean, the junction may be that of the Pacific, with the triangle representing bad service, bad decor and bad food.

Review:Toronto:Queen West:Lisa Marie

June 10, 2013June 10, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

It seems fitting that Fidel Gastro (aka Matt Basile) would choose to name this pop-up as a tribute to Elvis but call it Lisa Marie instead of something like “The King on Queen” or “Heartbreak Hotel”. In fact, the only Elvis references in the place are the large wall mural, a ceramic bust (similar to the same one I hung out a window driving up Gordon St. in Guelph after a university bender…that’s another story) behind the bar and an “Elvis is a jar” dessert.

I guess FG is kind of like Lisa Marie in the sense that he has experienced a quiet kind of success as opposed to flamboyant Elvis style exhibited by chefs like Mark McEwan and Lynn Crawford. There’s a Church of Scientology (Lisa Marie’s old hangout ) underground secrecy about him despite the fact he was featured on a recent CBC documentary. In fact, one could argue he may be as fictional as the war in Wag the Dog or “the Mandarin” in Ironman 3. That thought was put to rest, however, when I actually met the legend….and I have proof. He took a break from buzzing around the joint to snap a pic.

Lisa Marie has grasped onto the growing trend of small tapas plates seen in some of the nearby joints. The menu is presented in Cicchetti style, an Italain term for small dishes although many of the dishes have an international fare. Most of the items are snack size and less than $10 each. You’ll also notice nothing on the menu makes any references to any of the Presleys.

Lisa Marie Menu from Fidel Gastro's Blog — Lisa Marie Menu

Taken from: http://www.fidelgastro.ca/blog/

After consultation with two separate staff members , both told me to try the deep fried pizza, the pork belly cheese thang, the alabama tailgators and if I wanted something lighter, the fresh tuna puttanesca rolls. As for drinks, after a pint of Wellington I ordered the Getaway car, a Casear-like drink with either tequila, gin or vodka served with a 6 oz chaser of draught beer for $13. Pretty simple but pretty smart. I opted for gin. It was simple and delicious in a full pint glass, souped up with lime, spiced nicely with housemade hot sauce, a few green pickled beans and a salt and pepper rim coloured with paprika.

At first I thought the Alabama Tailgaters were going to be Cajan gator tails and not bacon wrapped carpaccio with kimchi and cheddar. They were delicious, balanced well with the salty bacon, rich beef and acid from the combination of kimchi and the accompanying housemade pickles. At the same time I ordered the deep fired duck pizza. I stared a bit perplexed, not sure if if should use a fork or eat it like a taco. The dough was a bit tough and the pizza was a bit hard to navigate, but the duck was moist and flavorful. It was sweetened slightly with a tasty hoisin sauce. Both dishes provided great mouthfeel with a subtle bit of crunch in every bite.

Deep fried duck pizza $8 and Alabama Tailgaters $8

Round 2 was the second set of the server’s recommendations, this time focusing on the tuna rolls and pork belly cheese thang (I feel so gangsta now). I will concur, the puttanesca rolls are the lightest thing on the menu..and probably the ONLY light thing on the menu. They were stuffed with a good amount of tuna and crunchy veggies but I wasn’t a huge fan of the dipping sauce. If anything, I would hope the sweet would overpower or at least match the sour but I found the vinegar and seasoning to be too predominate and a bit off . As for the pork belly, if thang is gangsta for f”ing delicious, then the description is accurate. The use of havarti was brilliant as it created a base reminiscent of a queso fundido while remaining pliable enough to be used as a taco shell. The pork belly and salsa it held were nice partners accented by a subtle amount of sweet and spicy aioli.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the pantry. FG took advantage of the deli case left behind by the previous tenants to peddle some of his wares including prepared meats and bacon jam. In addition, there are shelves of pickles vegetables, sloppy joes mixes, hot sauces etc for purchase. Most jars are priced around $8 and allow one to bring home a souvenir of the visit to Queen St.’s version of Graceland.

My Take

The food is innovative and well executed. The tuna, pork , beef and duck were all prepared in expert fashion. The pork belly cheese thang was a Gangsta’s paradise. The getaway car concept was simple but brilliant. It was pretty easy to fill up and have a couple of drinks for around $50. The service was top notch as well.

Having existed for about 5 weeks, there are still some growing pains. There’s no website (although a menu is hidden within the blog tab on the FG website) and they still haven’t figured out if they want to expand to daily late night offerings in a fashion similar to the nearby Odd Seoul, 416 snack bar and Bar Isabel. Case and point…The dessert menu was on the other side of the bar and wasn’t printed on the menu, so I didn’t realize it existed. I asked for an Elvis in a jar (the only menu item making reference to the king) but the kitchen had already closed around 11pm on a Thursday night. A mild inconvenience I suppose. Trust me, I’ll be back.

Otherwise, the blueprint of Lisa Marie allows for the creative license demonstrated by the Fidel Gastro catering and food truck endevours. This same creativity has been expanded to an impressive pantry and cocktail list. The early menu features no distinct style of fare but this shouldn’t be mistaken as synonymous to the Fat vs Skinny Elvis identity crisis (although the frequent use of the deep fryer may suggest the former). There’s a direction among the madness and other dishes I still want to try. Like Lisa Marie at the time of her father’s death, this place has some growing up to do but should mature into a successful franchise without the need to marry Michael Jackson and Nicholas Cage.

Review:Toronto:Little Italy:Bar Isabel

June 8, 2013June 9, 2013 spennyrd6 Comments

Bar Isabel is one of a new flock of hipster joints popping up on the outskirts of the Ossington strip. Perhaps they are listening to consumers because instead of puffing out their plaid chests with ridiculous policies, they actually take reservations and accept plastic.
As for the décor, it’s a mix of a man cave and grandma’s kitchen. The lights were dim and music was blasting but tables are meticulously arranged throughout. The walls looked liked they could either hold pictures of bikini clad women or cozy covered tea pots and miniature dolls. The music itself was moderately loud and quite eclectic but it fit the atmosphere.

The staff were like Dr. Seuss characters…some were short and some were tall, some used gel and some were bald. Some looked stoic and some looked glad, some wore bowties and some wore plaid. Even the patrons fit the bill, ranging from a couple that looked like they just left the Rolling Stones concert to a woman at the other end of the bar who had the hair and wardrobe of somebody who belongs in a sepia photo that would be framed on one of grandma’s shelves in the main dining room.

The hostess with fiery red hair ( at least it appeared to be red in the dim light so I’ll call her red fish) sat me at the bar. A “You may get wet on this ride” might have been appropriate because at times I got the odd spray of soda water or lemon from the frantic workings of the barkeep (who I will aptly call blue fish) whipping up an array of traditional and not so traditional cocktails. Quite fun. I threw my hat in and ordered a classic….a 2.5 oz corpse reviver #2 (Plymouth gin, cointreau, lillet blanc, lemon juice, absinthe rinse) for $15. Delicious but expensive.

Corpse Reviver #2 $15 (Funeral home priced)

I quickly realized that she was the Rosetta stone of Bar Isabel. She quickly recommended a few dishes which I properly wouldn’t have ordered otherwise because A) they didn’t look the most appealing and B) I didn’t know what the hell they were. Yes, I will admit that in cases I have pulled out the blackberry in secrecy to look up a menu item I didn’t recognize. She raved about the boquerones and the mojama salad and offered a brief explanation of each. I said sure. She also suggested the fried chicken, telling me it was the best in Toronto.

I started with the Giardiniera Pickles. They were spiced nicely and offered a terrific variety of veggies. They were a bit oily which I suppose is characteristic of this type of pickle. Plus, they had fancy plates.

Boquerones are anchovies, usually soaked in vinegar. Served with paquillo peppers and jalapenos, this is one of the best things I’ve eaten all year; an absolute sensory overload. Acid predominated but was tamed by the sweetness of the paquillo, the heat of the jalapeno and the buttery saltiness of the fish itself. The homemade corn chips brought some earthiness and crunch and were absolutely delicious on their own. Plus, they had fancy plates.

Mojama is salted tuna. Once again, a fantastic balance was achieved with the richness of the tuna combined with zesty orange, pungent red onion and earthy almonds. The same ingredients offered a great textural contrast was as well. Each bite was a salty and fleshy with a bit of juiciness and crunch. The sorrel was a delicious addition. I actually wanted a bit more. Plus, they had fancy plates.

Fried chicken is fried chicken. Both the chicken and the eggplant were served hot. The coating was nicely spiced and surrounded moist white meat which was cut in chicken finger size pieces. I found it a bit greasy which resulted in putting the tea towel to good use. The eggplant was cooked nicely and wasn’t mushy although it was an odd side to serve with the chicken. Plus, they had fancy plates.

My Take

The service was impeccable. I was seated quickly, there was no attitude and no fewer than 5 employees checked on me during the service. In fact, when one of them realized I was waiting to pay my bill he dropped everything and settled up even though he wasn’t my server. I was asked my opinion about all the dishes. I was even impressed when the guy I assumed was the manager or owner smelled my empty wine glass and asked me how I enjoyed the Italian wine I ordered.

If this is the new wave of hipster joints I’m all in! I felt like I was the customer and not an intruder shunned for not knowing what the hell a boquerone was. They take credit cards and reservations. The food was solid, there are good beer on tap (including a Dieu du Ciel, Rosee D’Hibiscus, Belgian Wit which I am drinking right now) and the decor is unique but welcoming. I plan to come back to tackle the whole fish ceviche or octopus and maybe the tripe stew. I’ll pass on the horse however.

In the end, Dr Seuss said it best:

One fish, Two fish, Red fish, Blue fish,
Black fish, Blue fish, Old fish, New fish.
This one has a littlecar.
This one has a little star.
Say! What a lot of fish there are.
Yes. Some are red, and some are blue.
Some are old and some are new.
Some are sad, and some are glad,
And some are very, very bad.

In particular, from a fish perspective,both the mojama and boquerones were bad ass. Blue fish is attentive and makes a mean drink. Not bad for a place where, without the help of red fish, I would have ordered a bunch of other things which may or may not have been just as good. In the end, I guess I’ll have to come back and find out. This bar is a little star.

Review:Toronto:Ossington:Delux

June 8, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

I was driving down Ossington looking for a lunch spot and noticed a sandwich board advertising a Cuban lunch. Intrigued, I parked and dropped in for lunch at Delux, which focuses on this side of the Atlantic during the day as a deviation from the French-inspired dinner service at night.I was quickly seated and found som irony in the fact that I was seated facing a wall size pictur of the alphabet in a plac that can’t spell th word Delux.

A menu offering on a clipboard was provided to me quickly.

Bottles of water served Ossington-style* were readily available.

Conch fritters were ordered as an appetizer. They were very good and served piping hot.

Dessert was not an option since I got the bill before I was even asked if I wanted any.

Expensive cocktails….$14 for a 2 oz mojito?

Fried ripe plantains were spiced nicely but were oversalted.

Guava juice for $3 was a refreshing option.

Ham on the cubano was abundant.

Indigestion ensued.

Jalapenos were served with the Cuban to spice it up.

Kicking myself for not ordering the rice and beans.

Lackluster dipping sauce served with conch fritters.

Mustard on the cubano was delicious and not overbearing.

Nice amount of melted swiss on the cubano sandwich. Served at a great temperature.

Oysters are available for a bit over two bucks each.

Pressed cubano sandwich was quite good but not remarkable.

Questionable service. She made no suggestions, was slow and somewhat apathetic.

Roast pork on the cubano was moist and delicious.

Salads looked good. They were ordered by other tables.

Takes credit card! Woohoo!

Underwhelming decor.

Vegetarian choices include avocado, cheese and tomato sandwiches as well as salads and sides.

Wine list focuses primarily on Canadian and French with a few US, Spanish and Italian choices thrown in.

X is not the last letter in Deluxe.

You might want to share the conch fritters. There are too many and they are too rich for one person.

Zagat ranking of 23 for food. Lower for service and decor.

*-Ossington-Style water service usually involves a continuous supply of tap or still water served in some sort of glass vessel or carafe.

My Take

I must admit I was a bit let down after raising my hopes with the thought of an exotic Cuban lunch. The food was authentic enough but the service made me feel like I was JFK in a Cuban restaurant during the Bay of Pigs invasion.

This experience may have been an anomaly from a place which normally promises a favourable dining experience, but for now the absent E in Delux may represent “excellence” because it was definitely missing on this particular day.