Coming back from Kingston, I got off the train in the middle of rush hour and realized it was hapless to attempt to drive back to London so I took the opportunity to grab an early dinner at Byblos. Hidden on Duncan St, the outside is quite subtle especially compared to the massive four floor fortress inside. When I went to the reception, I got the typical routine when I told them I didn’t have a reservation. It starts with the fake pensive stare at the blank computer screen, followed by a slight nod and a grim proclamation and they said there was only room upstairs in the lounge. I followed him upstairs and was seated at a well stocked bar. I felt like I was in the bleachers at a Jays game beacuse I was the only one there. Good thing they snuck me in! As I waited for a drink, I looked around and the saw that the place was decorated in the typical Charles Khabouth style. The room was elegantly decorated and accented with hints of the Middle east.
I was quickly greeted by two barkeeps and we were able to strike up a bit of a conversation. First, we discussed the concept at Byblos: eastern Mediterranean flavours and a kick ass bar. I decided to test the latter out with an old fashioned ($15). Made with a base of Bulleit bourbon (that’s a good start) and accented with date molasses instead of sugar atop a signature Khabouth big ass ice cube, it had an odd colour (I love the bronzy hue of a good old-fashioned) and slightly overwhelming sweetness which hid the bourbon a little too much but in the end was still a decent drink.
Old Fashioned $15
From a food perspective, the menu is divided into small and large plates with a spattering of rice dishes. Since I was solo, for the most part I stuck with the small dishes and quizzed the guys about the best dishes:
Cheese Acharuli (Quail Egg + Brioche + Za’atar) $9- Eggs and cheese make me happy so this was an easy choice. The crust was crispy and held its texture while housing the melted cheese and runny egg. The za’atar flavour and pickled onion was a great addition to this spin of the traditional Georgian bread. I didn’t confirm the cheese but wouldn’t be surprised if there was a little sheep’s milk feta hidden in the stringy mess.
Cheese Acharuli (cheese bread) $9
I asked about octopus versus crispy squid and the consensus was go with the latter for $13. Although advertised as a large dish, it was no bigger than the acharuli and was seasoned with toum, spices and schug (hot sauce). Although the use of the toum was subtle, it carried a garlic punch that some might find a bit overpowering. Personally, I loved it. The squid itself was a bit lost in the batter and the expected heat from the schug fell a little short.
Crispy Squid Bandari Spice + Schug + Toum $13
The final decision was between the duck or eggplant kibbeh. Once again, after careful consultation I went with the vegetarian option ($14) after a suggestion from the waiter that duck might be a bit dry. Within minutes they arrived, served with a yogurt based dipping sauce. It was nicely spiced but overall the dish was a little underwhelming, especially with a $14 price tag.
Byblos is an other Charles Khabouth creation which fits his typical blueprint of huge fanfare, lively atmosphere, abundant space, fancy cocktails, well dressed waitstaff, nicely balanced pretension and hit and miss food. As a whole, I usually enjoy the experience but always leave with a few criticisms. Let me explain what I mean by balanced pretension. I have no issues with people taking pride in their craft and not hiding behind the veil of impartiality. I had a great discussion with the barkeeps about the Keg Mansion, cheque averages and noise levels. We bounced thoughts on the local eateries and agreed or agreed to disagree on many of them; whether it was the noise level, skimpy portions or best anchovy dish in town. That said, they are quite confident about their own joint. This pride is the foundation of the Khabouth brand. Whether it’s Patria, Weslodge or La Societe, you leave feeling a little cooler even if some of the food is hit and miss. Byblos is no different.
Richmond Station posts the following message on their urbanspoon page: “Richmond Station is a stopping place, a bustling neighbourhood restaurant in the downtown core. We are committed to delicious food and excellent hospitality.” A simple message but one forgotten by many eateries in the area.
Upon arriving for my reservation, I was brought to a table with a great view of the open kitchen. Unlike some other restaurants which boast retro soda coolers or toque-wearing moose heads, the decor is a simple white tile, black accents and classy hardwood tables. I was impressed with the layout of the chef’s table which seats about 8 people. The wait staff were equally as classy, dressed in black. Even the chefs were traditionally dressed, donning crisp whites and black aprons.
Richmond’s open kitchen with chef’s rail.
The hostess was very friendly, sat me quickly, provided a menu and I ordered a fantastic modernized version of a whisky old-fashioned cocktail at her recommendation. The waiter arrived shortly after and immediately asked me my name which he used for the remainder of the night. His service was impeccable, making menu recommendations while confidently explaining the restaurants concepts and philosophies. He seemed by my side all night, filling my water glass repeatedly and often explaining the station’s journey to date.
Old-Fashioned Cocktail
Excellent hospitality…check.
Now the food.
Must
The featured New Brunswick oysters were fresh and shucked without a flaw. The presentation was like a visual aphrodisiac, served on a bed of ice with fresh horseradish and house made condiments including a tangy mignonette, fresh marinara and spicy hot sauce. I witnessed a definite devotion to “excellent hospitality” from the kitchen when the lady beside me still received all of the accompaniments when ordering a single oyster. At $3.5 each, there may be a temptation to break the bank of these tasty critters even before tackling the main menu.
Oysters with condiments
I received a lesson in what a real lobster bisque is supposed to taste like. Ignoring the trend to call any soup a bisque because it sounds better, Carl Heinrich’s team reverts to old school French methods, producing a thin but flavourful broth emulsified with classic ingredients such as cream and seasoned with tarragon. The result was a marriage of tantalizing flavours and although it did start to separate a bit toward the end, most will easily consume the majority beforehand.
“Real” Lobster Bisque
Keep an eye on the blackboard. On this night there was a duck breast served on a braised duck leg. The shredded leg was thoroughly cooked but still tender while the breast was sliced a perfect medium rare. Both cuts were graced with a flavourful sauce and served with some vibrant greens. This dish may answer the old question..am I a breast man or a leg man? Based on this dish, my answer is both. Then again, maybe it’s the oysters talking.
Duck Two-ways
Maybe
Also on the blackboard was a 6 oz beef offering for $26. Beef is usually a safe bet and Richmond Station was no exception. The seasoned beef had a beautiful sear and was sliced medium rare but was difficult to see amidst the jungle of greens covering the perfectly cooked steak. The meat itself had a fantastic flavour but I wasn’t fond of the bed of overly buttered chopped brussel sprouts which laid the foundation for the beef, which just made the already rich tasting beef taste even richer.
Beef Special (see blackboard)
Mundane
The regular menu features a starter section highlighted by a $13 lobster cocktail. Lose any premonition of a tall glass overflowing with fresh, chunky lobster. Instead, expect a more measly presentation of 4 deep-fried lobster pieces served on a piece of lettuce with a dollop of cocktail sauce. Sharing means you’ll only get two (or maybe three if you can mildly distract your table mate). If you’re going to go fishing at Richmond Station, spend $14 and get 4 oysters instead of these land-battered crustaceans.
Lobster Cocktail
My Take
Richmond Station’s urbanspoon proclamation claim holds true lead by a well-trained, courteous staff and a trendy menu with classic French influence overseen by a proven champion in Carl Heinrich (who even came out to ask how the meal was). The classic decor follows suit, characterized by a modern but bourgeois surrounding reminiscent of the style of Candice Olson as opposed to Red Green, Bruce Wayne or Beetlejuice. In the end, both the concept and the location create a perfect storm, appealing to celebrity chef chasers, downtown dwellers, floating foodies and those who appreciate french inspired food without the confines of bistros adorning white table linen and equally stuffy service. I’ll come by again when they open for lunch, but for now I don’t mind this train stop along my voyage in search of culinary pearls.
Fare..Eat..Ales 