spennyrd

Review:Toronto:Downtown:Hawthorne Food and Drink

April 21, 2013May 1, 2013 spennyrd2 Comments

Hawthorne recently opened in downtown with a bit of a mysterious aura. It has no website and relays all its information, including its menu, through its facebook page. The about tab describes the food as:

American (New)

American (Traditional)

Barbeque

Brunch

Hawaiian

Moroccan

Singaporean

Soul Food

Vegan

Vegetarian

It takes up the street level corner of 60 Richmond St which sits about a block southeast of the Eaton Centre. It has the layout out of a old school diner but with chic furniture, shelves of mason jars full of colourful pickled vegetables and on-table dessert menus held up with used wine corks. The menu is highlighted by a signature foursquare tasting meal offering small plates (literally presented on a single square plate) featuring fresh and seasonal ingredients.

Must

Beef brisket is available everywhere and Hawthorne’s offering ($13) competes with some of the best southern joints in the city. Sliced a tad thinner than most, the abundant use of whiskey BBQ sauce and the fattiness of the cut made the sandwich rich and moist and the brioche bun was able to withstand the drippy-goodness. The fries were cut slightly thick and served hot. The homemade ketchup was tasty although quite unorthodox, highlighted by a predominant smoky flavour.

Brisket Sandwich and Kennebec Fries ($13)

I’m a sucker for homemade soda and was pleased to see the Hawthorne offering. I opted for pear-cardamom and quite enjoyed its delicate and refreshing taste. It was not sickly sweet and was as refreshing a a cold Steamwhistle pilsner, the only other drink I’ve ever been served in a glass boot. A shot of gin from the well stocked bar would have made it a neat spin on a gin and tonic if I was in the mood and position for a potent potable.

Maybe

The soup of the day was the unique combination of collard green and lentil which was served in a clear glass pot. Although it was a bit thick, it had consistent texture and a freshness reminding me that the phenols would do their best to protect me from cardiac assault of the upcoming brisket.

I was intrigued by the paella bombs which were described as crispy rice cake, sausage, crab and tomato pepper relish. They were presented beautifully but were covered with mussels and clams which I found odd given the description on the menu.The flavours were great although it taste more like a jambalaya or a pot of mussels and less like a paella. The biggest issue is they were presented cold. I addressed this with the waitress who checked with the kitchen and confirmed they should have been hot. She did offer to heat them up but by then I was almost done.

Mundane

I was told the menu was new so I can understand a few items being lost in translation. However, mussels and clams on a paella is a pretty significant oversight. In addition, the menu indicated that the brisket came with housemade pickles. As a diner who will sometimes order an entree to get such pickles, I was irritated to see their absence. At first the waitress ensured me they were on the sandwich. A surgical dissection of the brisket confirmed otherwise and she went to the kitchen to inquire. The explanation was a typo on the menu and her peace offering was a rather dismal display of a few pickled carrots and sunchokes despite the wide array of options surrounding me.

My Take

There are obvious execution errors (temperature and menu descriptions) and waitstaff who seem a bit uninformed and disorganized. Both should be ironed out with time and practice. That said, the food is tasty and the environment is fresh and vibrant. I left generally satisfied despite a minor case of pickle envy.

Hawthorne is a bit confusing to the point where it lacks identity. It is designed like a high-end diner. The staff are dressed in foodie plaid. Some of the dishes are presented in fine dining style. The location (Richmond and Church) would mainly appeal to business folk and downtown dwellers. It’s a place that a larger group may all be alright with but you wouldn’t choose for any particular reason.

A famous author once wrote:

“Amid the seeming confusion of our mysterious world , individuals are so nicely adjusted to a system, and systems to one another and to a whole, that, by stepping aside for a moment, a man exposes himself to a fearful risk of losing his place forever”.

Although I’m quite sure this 19th century quote was not meant to predict the Toronto dining scene in 2013, I think there are certain elements which are highly applicable. Today’s restaurants cannot be everything to everybody. You can’t be farm to table, nose to tail, organic, foodie-friendly, fine dining and a speakeasy (mentioned on their twitter account and a term coined in 1889 referring to an illegal alcohol establishment) all in one. If you don’t identify who you are, you will be forgettable amongst the many eateries lining the surrounding streets. Hawthorne’s success will hinge on its ability to fit in, without confusion, to a diverse and finicky Toronto dining crowd, a concept ironically penned in 1835 by American author and namesake Nathaniel Hawthorne.

Review:Toronto:Baldwin Village:Yakitori Bar

April 20, 2013April 21, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

A fedora and a pink cardigan. That’s how owner Sang Kim is depicted on the website and that’s exactly how he appears in person as he stands behind the bar as music fills the air at the boisterous Yakitori bar in Baldwin village. I half expected to see a karaoke machine and wouldn’t have surprised if Mr. Kim himself were first up with a stunning rendition of Billy Joel’s “We didn’t Start the Fire” or “Mr. Roboto” by Styx .

Yakitori is a fusion of the izakaya and pop-up restaurant concepts taking Toronto by storm. The drink menu includes 10 or so types of sake, some of which are also offered in a number of cocktails. I opted for a jubilee (sake/gin/muddled berries). It’s nice to see a well conceived and tasty drink for less than $8 which can rival cocktails up to twice the price in other places. There are a few beer on tap and some wine choices as well.

As for the food, the menu is presented in the format of a Bad Boy furniture ad. Daily specials and notifications of kimchi battles are plastered throughout the one pager. As for content, the mainstays are bbq meats typical of the yakitori concept with a few korean infusions including bibimbap, kimchi and mundoo.

Must

I skirted over the fact that the cheeseburger came with soup and salad and was pleasantly surprised to see a bowl of pumpkin carrot soup arrive. It was presented at “perfect soup temperature”*. Despite the main ingredients, the soup was not over sweet, was seasoned beautifully and managed to keep the integrity of the fresh ingredients through both texture and taste.

*- Perfect soup temperature is defined as not mouth-burning yet hot enough to endure the time it takes to consume the last bite.

The kimchi flight (see picture below) features 3 generations of kimchi (1 day, 2 weeks and 3 months old) appeared to be a bit of a gimmick until you tried it. Like a grandfather, father and son, each had similarities yet definite differences in taste. The elder kimchi’s flavour was smoky and full. The middle offering had a modest bite but was still juicy and ripe. The youngin’ was fresh and crispy yet still intense. Despite the small quantities, the taste intensity made it next to impossible to finish all three even despite my attempt to scatter it among my other dishes.

Maybe

In a city where burger shops seem to outnumber Starbucks, this mainstay needs something to stand out. Yakatori’s attempt is bulgogi (Korean beef) served on a fresh roll and topped with a bit of caramelized kimchi and the more traditional, as far as burger’s go, lettuce, tomato and cheese. It wouldn’t rank among the best burgers in Toronto but it’s a solid sandwich. The accompanying salad was pleasant although the dressing was a little flat. A little more acid might have helped.

Kimchi Flight ($3.95) and Bulgogi Cheeseburger ($9.95)

The BBQ eel off the grill was a nice few bites. It was moist and covered with a sweet sauce that nicely complemented the powerful taste of the eel. I found it a little pricy at $6.25 but for a solo diner the quantity was sufficient. Throw this in front of a group however, and the next thing you know singing battles to Lionel Richie’s “Dancing on the Ceiling” may settle who gets the last piece.

My Take

I like the vibe of Yakitori bar. It maintains the ethnic flare of Baldwin village but not at the expense of drab and downtrodden decor. It is fresh and clean and the food is fun. Although I went at down time, I imagine the night crowd can bring some energy without the need for half-naked wasabi fights or singing line cooks. There is a variety of snacks that will appeal to most palates. There’s even some decent choices for vegetarians and gluten free eaters. Cheapish cocktails, choices for the peckish and starving alike and kimchi older than Psy’s shelf life makes Yakatori a place with staying power….which may be more than I can say about a pink cardigan. Gun Bae, Mr. Kim!

Review:Toronto:King West:Sadie’s Diner and Juice Bar

April 11, 2013April 11, 2013 spennyrd2 Comments

My morality needed a boost as I found myself surrounded by friends and colleagues hunting high and low for vitamin releasing blenders and adhering to diets making them as alkaline as a Duracell battery. So I made a decision that for one meal I would skip the meat and “eat what food eats”. This philosophy drew me to Sadie’s Diner and Juice Bar, a well-established vegetarian diner in the King West area.

I entered with a brave face in hopes that the astute staff wouldn’t turn on their radar and call my bluff by detecting the trace amounts of pork by-products circulating in my blood from a bacon binge a few nights before. The waitress was a hip version of Anne of Green Gables, sporting some very flowery pants and a personality that matched. A discussion about the merits of brewed coffee versus lattes followed and I felt a little more confident that my cloak and dagger attempt at portraying a clean eater was actually working.

I sat and stared at a menu offering some decent and classic breakfast dishes but with tree-hugging substitutes such as “fakin” and “fauxsage”. In the end, I settled for the Huevos Rancheros: Two eggs over easy on corn tortillas with salsa, refried beans, guacamole & cheddar cheese for $12. It was calling my name as it had no reference to either the above mentioned imposters of something called “vegan cheese”.

As I sipped my coffee (I don’t use dairy..so there), I looked around and made a few interesting observations:

1. There are pez dispensers (with numbers trumped only by the Paper Moon cafe in Baltimore) encased in the walls.

2. Pieces of irony are scattered across the restaurant and included pig salt and pepper shakers, a replica of the Simpson’s Lard Lad and a really mean looking chicken as the April picture on a calender hanging on the wall. Perhaps the latter was not ironic, because a word bubble inserted over the chicken could easily say “Take my eggs, but don’t touch my breasts!”

3. Stunning artwork by struggling artists, jaded lovers and cautious optimists adorn the walls.

My breakfast arrived. The tortillas were crispy, the eggs were a bit over done (I need that ray of sunshine when I cut through the yolk…hmmmm…sounds like a cool theme for a painting) and the salsa, beans and guacamole were just ok, maybe because it couldn’t hide behind breakfast meat.

A plethora of juice combinations, in raw or smoothie form and starting at about $4 are available to complement any meal. They are juiced fresh without the help of David Wolfe, the Adam Duritz meets Jim Rome looking “longevity” expert, and his nutribullet…. but that’s another story. Additions include vegan supplements such as:

Maca Powder: for increased energy & strength – $1.50

Sprouted Golden Flaxseed: fights cholesterol, natural source of antioxidants – $1.50

Spirulina Powder: mega-source of vitamin B12 – $1.50

Veggie Greens: a day‘s worth of fresh veggies in one scoop – $1.50

or…Vegan Protein Powder – add to any smoothie for extra oomph!

Raw Hemp Protein – $2

Brown Rice Protein – $2

Pumpkin Seed Protein – $2

VEGA Complete – $4

My Take

Joking about my meatless meal aside, Sadie’s is a neat place with a decent menu. There is passion in the food, the walls, the art and the staff. It’s neat, hip and cool with a fresh decor and an ok vegetarian menu. In the end, a fun switch from the everyday temptation of farmland friends but not so good whereas I’ll consider giving up the sinful flesh. Or maybe I’m just afraid of that damn chicken.

Review:Toronto:Leslieville:Lady Marmalade

April 5, 2013April 5, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

Hey hipster, go hipster, soul hipster, go hipster
Hey hipster, go hipster, soul hipster, go hipster

He went Marmalade down in old Leslieville
Struttin’ his stuff on the street
She said, “Hello, gimme some Joe
And maybe an order of french toast”

Mmm, fruity fruity ya ya da da
Coulis coulis ya ya here
Mocha latte ya ya
Here at Lady Marmalade

Voulez-vous manger avec moi, ce soir?
Voulez-vous manger avec moi?

He savored his coffee whch she freshed up
Cuz he couldn’t get a beer or wine.
On the formica table tops where
He started to eat.

Tofu tofu ya ya da da
Lots of veggies options here
All day breakfast ya ya
Here at Lady Marmalade

Voulez-vous manger avec moi, ce soir?
Voulez-vous manger avec moi?

Seeing the hollandiase sauce silky smooth
Along with a cafe au lait
One bite of the eggs bennie inside
Makes you wanna cry, “More, more, more”

It’s only open from 8 to 4
And 8 to 3 weekends (and holidays)
But when he sits down to eat
He wants to order more, more, more

Mexi mexi ya ya da da da
Tortita-gordita ya ya here
Six dollar smoothies ya ya
at the trendy Lady Marmalade.

Voulez-vous manger avec moi, ce soir?
Voulez-vous manger avec moi?
Voulez-vous manger avec moi, ce soir?
Voulez-vous manger avec moi?

Annoying annoying ya ya da da da
Cash only ya ya here
No reservations either ya ya
Here at Lady Marmalade

Tomato and Basil Eggs Bennie with Potatoes and Salad

Tortita-Gordita Dandwich with Soup — Tortita-Gordita sandwich with Soup

Translation

Pros– One of the best eggs bennie going. I think the hollandaise sauce has nicotine or something addictive in it because on occasion i wake up wanting it injected in my veins. Great menu with lots of veggie options. Food is fresh and environment is buzzy and fun.

Cons– Cash only and no reservations and the whole party has to be there seat policy. Blah, blah, blah. Ugly walls. Hardy Boys (I was partial to Nancy Drew).

Review:Toronto:Midtown:Zucca Trattoria

April 5, 2013April 5, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

Well outside the garden of trattorias and enotecas restaurants along College street sits Zucca, which many consider the great pumpkin of Italian food. It has a Zagat rating of 26 and Joanne Kates’ has had it just out of the bronze medal position for two years running, trumping godfathers like Mistura and prodigies like Campagnolo. Zucca’s message is simple; turn great ingredients into great food.

Must

I have two confessions:

1. I like playing with my food. I had memories of high school when I had the opportunity to dissect a fish instead of a frog. However, instead of searching for lungs and livers I discovered bouquets of slightly charred thyme and rosemary. I’d give the fish itself an A. My dissection skills, however, get a solid B as I only had a few of those awkward moments (you know…when you miss a bone and want to save face by subtly removing it from your mouth with the cough into the napkin trick or just chewing lots, swallowing and hoping you don’t end up with an mild esophageal tear).

2. I have no idea what kind of fish I had. It was deep sea, delicious and referred to as scarinno on the bill, a word that does not exist on google searches or food dictionaries and costs $40. I emailed Zucca, tweeted Mario Batelli and searched Italian fish blogs to no avail. So, in the end I have to swallow my pride in a manner similar to one of those tiny fish bones.

Mystery FIsh- Not Branzino although it sure looks like it — Mystery Fish- Not Branzino although it sure looks like it ($40)

How can you go wrong with fresh tagliatelle with octopus, pine nuts and a tad of prosciutto? The $16 appetizer size hit the spot. The pasta was delicious. It wasn’t overly greasy and the additions had good textural contrast.

Tagliatelle with Octopus and Pine Nuts $16

Maybe

If you want a plate of meat topped with some cheese and a few sliced cactus pears, then you’re in luck. It’s a decent offering of fresh ingredients with a pleasant presentation.

Zucca Prosciutto with Cactus Pear and Parmigiano ($16)

The affogato di caffe was a fitting end to a meal. It strays a bit from simple with two types of gelato and a massive wafer but maintains the fundamentals of this classic dessert…and it even comes with a cute paper doilee.

Mundane

Although there was nothing mundane about the food, it is old school in service and decor (including a rather awkward design). It’s a bit on the yawnish side and will likely never be considered trendy, but it is well established without the need to peddle wine on tap, neapolitan wood fired pizza or mama’s homemade meatballs.

My Take

Pine nuts, polipo and pears…..oh my! Although it’s a bit sleepy, it has great food, great service and nameless fish. It’s fitting for a business meal or grandma’s 70th birthday but wouldn’t be the venue where you’d retweet witty vignettes about the jays home opener or copious consumption of cleverly named cocktails. It’s a place where you can relax, wear slacks, consume , hear yourself think and once the food comes not have to wait very long for proof that the great pumpkin does exist.

Review:Toronto:Downtown:Sansotei Ramen

March 30, 2013March 30, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

I dropped into this Ramen house around 11 am on a Tuesday morning, taking advantage of the fact that there wasn’t a crowd huddled around the door like you’d see during a Sylvester Stallone sighting. The reasons for the mass crowds are threefold:

1. It’s ramen and it’s Toronto.

2. The place only holds about 30 people.

3. The policy is wait outside because there’s no room inside.

The decor is plain. The tables are bare. The menu is a small laminated, folded card. The tiny kitchen is barely visible in the back. No cliffhanger here…I followed my standard routine and ordered shio ramen with a side of gyoza dumplings.

The Ramen

It was quite a simple presentation, including green onion, noodles, a few bamboo shoots, pork belly and a softish boiled egg. It ignored the bells and whistles such as nori, pickled plums and goji berries. The broth was rich and full of pork flavor. On one hand, it was not oversalted. On the other, it was a bit greasy which wasn’t helped by the really fatty pork cut submerged in the broth. The egg was cooked and seasoned well, the amount of onion and shoots were not enough and the noodles (ordered thick) were a bit starchy. In the end, it was a decent bowl and less than $9.

The Gyoza

The lipophilic nature of Sansotei was evident again when I ordered the gyoza. Four pieces for $4.50 (I ate one before I remembered I didn’t take a picture) arrived Stallone style (slightly tanned and glistening with oil) and served with a tasty dipping sauce. Despite being a bit greasy, the dough had a great texture (unlike Stallone post Judge Dredd) in that it was not too chewy nor too crispy. The filling was well seasoned and not watered down in a fashion similar to the plot of Stop! Or My Mom Will Shoot.

My Take

Sansotei is a small, simple eatery with an equally simple menu. It doesn’t have the bells and whistles of other ramens, but despite being a bit greasy, the rich broth is flavorful enough and is not oversalted. None of the broths are vegetarian. The gyoza were terrific although a quick wipe with a napkin wouldn’t hurt. I really need to do a ramen power ranking but as it stands Sansotei comes in Stallone style again (an underdog who proves to be a serious contender). In the end, it may not the be the Rocky of all ramen, but it sure isn’t the Rhinestone either.

Review:Ottawa:Rockcliffe/Beechwood:Farb’s

March 20, 2013March 20, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

It was a stormy, cold night (that narrows it down to one of about 40 nights in the past couple of months) as I made the trek out to Farb’s in Ottawa. Farb’s is a smallish, gimmick free place that focuses on the elegant presentation of standard bistro fare such as walleye (you think they’d call it pickerel, especially in the nation’s capital), chops, steaks and even Moo Goo Gai Pan for a little ethnic diversity. It’s a meat heavy menu with one vegetarian starter (a ubiquitous beet salad) and one main (risotto with trendy sunchoke and tomato jam).

Must

If this was a short rib, I’d like to see a long rib. It would probably look like that hunk of meat that tips Fred’s car over at the beginning of the Flintstones. The meat was tasty and tender and abundant. It sat upon a blissful mess of beans and root veggies and a jovial jus. I’m not sure who Rodney Blake is (I’m assuming it’s not the Aussie rugby player also called Rodzilla) , but his wilted greens are pretty darn good. I would of picked up the bone and savagely tore meat of the bone but….

1. My guest would likely think I was even crazier than I am (after all I do take pictures of everything I eat and interrogate waitstaff like a defense lawyer).

2. There was so much meat I probably couldn’t lift it or get anywhere close to the bone even if Adam Richman was helping me out.

3. It only looks funny and appropriate on cartoons (how do they clean the bone in one fell swoop?).

Maybe

With a price just below double digits (restaurant soup prices in the past five years have escalated well above standard inflation rates), Farb’s does a decent one. This one was a carrot soup topped with a bit of salty. melty cheese and flavoured oil to offset the sweetness. The rawness of the carrot was evident and it was seasoned well. Overall it was a good cure for the wintertime blues.

My Take

This is my second visit to Farb’s and both have been solid. It’s a quaint, family run bistro with a focus on well-prepared food. Starters range from $9-18 with most mains around $30. The wine selection is average and the dessert selection is somewhat minimal. It’s not a place that will blow your mind with creativity or the use of unmentionable animal products, but you can get a classic dish done well. It comes accompanied with an intangible but important touch of family pride which is often missing from other establishments. In other words, when your with the Farber’s, you’ll have a yabba dabba doo time, a dabba doo time, you’ll have a gay old time.

Review:Parkdale:Porzia

March 19, 2013March 20, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

It makes sense…add a little Italian to Parkdale. They already have tacos, lobsters and ssam. Why not some capocolla too? Even better, make it tapas. Porzia has recently opened in the proximity of Grand Electric and Chantecler and promises edgy food in a edgy environment. Most of the menu focuses on aggressive uses of chicken liver, tripe, sweetbreads and other delicious body parts served as is or concocted into charcuteries. There are a few safe items on the menu in the event that one is not fond of animal parts used for things other than running.

Must

The citrus salad ($11) was the easiest dish to understand without waiter interpretation. However, the thought of olives and oranges playing together in a salad was a bit odd. The chilis added a great kick and the abundant parsley added a little green. I suppose the olive might have been an attempt to add a bit of salt while deviating from the normal addition of some salty cheese but it was rather unnecessary. Overall, it had a freshness that offered a refreshing option to many of the other dishes on the menu.

Maybe

The crostini ($12) were highly recommended by the otherwise preoccupied waiter. The sausage was the delicious mainstay but was covered with a rapini mixture that was highly oversalted, especially when topped with cheese. I was left to scrape the roughage off the remaining two pieces and discard it like an overcooked pizza crust so I could just focus on the meat.

The eggplant involtini ($14) was one of the few vegetarian dishes on the menu although it was priced like it had some kind of creature in it. It was served hot and the eggplant was spot on in terms of texture. From a flavour perspective, it too was a little heavy on the salt and a little more of the advertised roasted garlic would have been nice.

Mundane

Maybe I didn’t have the balls to go for the tripe, so I went with another set of balls and opted for the classic polpetta ragu ($15). They were simply presented with crostini and sauce. Once again, there was an abundance of salt which almost made it unbearable. It was like taking tylenol; I only ate two and needed copious amounts of water to wash it down.

I’ve come to the conclusion that a $12 cocktail better make my meatballs tingle. I tried with the grappa sour (grappa, lemon, cardamon and egg white)…no tingling…just another example of me falling for the old put an egg in anything and I’ll order it trick.

My Take

I’m not sure if the abundant use of salt or the big prices left a worse taste in my mouth. The staff seemed a bit unfazed by my woes as there were no inquiries about my half eaten dishes (I was only asked when I got my coat and after I paid the bill) if there were any issues with the food. By then it didn’t matter. With an abundance of other small-plated ethnic choices available within a few blocks, I’ll get that tingly feeling elsewhere and leave the overpriced Italian fare to the other parts of town. Plus, I know a lot of places that serve a mean fruit salad.

Review:Richmond Station

March 12, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

I was minding my own business when I checked my twitter account and was teased by Richmond Station challenging me to come in and try the venison and wild boar tourtiere for lunch. I responded with a “maybe I will” and next thing I knew they were saving me a seat for after my appointment. When I arrived, I was greeted by name and sat promptly at the chef’s table.

The $19 prix fixe lunch was an easy choice…french onion soup with that alluring meat pie…..

Must

French onion soup is difficult to perfect. The tendency with most is to rely on salty broth and an abundance of cheese as the main flavour. This broth was light and delicate and seasoned with flavours much more robust than just salt. The Gruyere cheese was the perfect amount of taste and meltiness on top. It was quite easy to finish the modest portion without any ill feeling of consuming too much sodium.

I watched the chef struggle a bit with plating the delicate tourtiere, so it was a bit messy. Despite this, the meat pie was easily the best thing I’ve eaten so far in 2013. The crust was flaky and the large chunks of venison with the ground boar was a blissful textural contrast. The seasonings once against avoided from the tendency to rely heavily on salt and instead promoted the flavours of fresh herbs reminiscent of my Grandma’s Christmas pies. The frisse salad tossed with apples and citrus dressing was a great compliment which, coupled with the pickled vegetables, brought some crunch and tartness to compliment the main.

Maybe

In a smart move, Richmond Station offers their regular dessert menu for only $5 during lunch. I couldn’t resist. At the advise of the very helpful waitstaff, I opted for the lemon posset which was accompanied with a poached pear, blueberry compote, chamomile foam and meringue. The presentation was a bit odd as it lacked any real colour since the blueberry was hidden beneath the meringue. The posset itself could of been a bit more intense in its lemon flavour to offset the sweetness of the other components. The pear was delicious as a stand alone but was a bit confusing with the rest of the dish. The chamomile foam was magic with a wonderful mouth feel and subtle tea taste. In the end, it was a pleasant finish.

My Take

The first time I went to Richmond station the lunch concept was still under construction. Based on this experience, I’d get off at this stop anytime, especially if the tourtiere sticks around. The tempting twitter taunt materialized into an experience characterized by the trinity of terrific service (both virtual and in person), a smart location and the reasonable $19 prix fixe lunch menu. The whole 3 -course lunch was served in less than 45 minutes despite the fact the restaurant was full and offered a spectacle highlighted by a kitchen run with impressive efficiency. Let’s call it a great dinner and a movie for less than $30. I even got to see a great trailer with the delivery of an impressive pig by a proud butcher for later use. I’m sure it made for quite the sequel.

Review:Toronto:Parkdale:Oddseoul

March 11, 2013March 12, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

The retro tribute that adorns Parkdale continues with the introduction of Oddseoul, the newish street food joint serving Asian inspired snacks. Only identified by a red, white and blue barber’s pole, I entered a long, narrow room only lit by a glowing red “prescription” sign and two white signs that looked like they were stolen from an 80s drive-in theatre which display the modest sized food and drink menu. I was seated against the wall and had a clear view of the kitchen where 3 or 4 cooks were busily buzzing around. It was steady for late on a Monday night, but the service was like trying to get a haircut the week before school.

In addition to the signs which likely once announced the arrival of “ET” back in 1982, a printed menu was handed to me on a crinkled sheet that looked like a few dozen people had spilled something on it earlier in the night….or week.

Must

The squash poutine ($7) was such a refreshing change from for others which grace most menus. The cubed squash was the perfect base in both size and texture to complement the salty, sour and tangy toppings. The subtle sweetness offered a foundation that rounded off the dish. The curry gravy added spicy dimensions that just worked. Lastly, it was served mouth-burning hot, a refreshing change from most poutine which arrive at the table in a semi-congealed state before you take the first bite.

Maybe

Bourbon drinks are the fad right now and I equate a good one to the experience of jumping in a cold pool. It should hurt a bit at first (I find a first sip of bourbon like a slap in the face) but once you get used to it, you don’t wanna get out. The Bulleit Smash fell a bit short on both fronts and was more like jumping in a luke warm pool. It lacked shock value. In other words, I didn’t bond with the drink in a love/hate relationship…it was more like an amicable friendship.

The “loosey” ($5) was a saucy, small burger in sandwich form topped with kimchi. It was a tasty and messy few bites. I was hoping for more of a punch with the kimchi but it tasted more like a a Wendy’s quarter pounder in the sense that it had some predominant ketchup and mayo type flavours so I was left buzzing with a fast foodish high.

Mundane

I’m becoming increasingly suspicious of pork buns. It’s a dish where the bun is as important as the filling. The Oddseoul’s offering was anemic and sticky. Inside was a whole lot of filling. It was almost impossible to eat. The barbeque sauce was perfectly spiced but overwhelmingly tangy which took over the rest of the dish. Throw that sauce on a chicken wing and now we’re talking.

My Take

What’s with Steigl? It’s popping up quicker than a Han brothers restaurant itself. I missed the memo announcing it was the new foodie beer of 2013 much to the dismay of past foodie bandwagon favorites including Heineken, Stella, Dos Equis and of course, Pabst Blue Ribbon.

Oddseoul is another invention by the Han brothers. It’s prescription is for aggressively flavoured asian inspired street food and modern cocktails in a vibrant setting. The ambiance features loud hip-hop music and equally old school decor in the form of bear heads and drive-in movie signs. Although the food was tasty, most of the dishes had a monotonous yet “polar” and unbalanced flavour profile (that’s my witty reference to the barber’s pole). On that note, I’m not sure whether I’ll be coming back for a trim every eight weeks or so.