Stories Inspired by Pop Culture and a Little Comestible Criticism
Author: spennyrd
I like concerts, consuming, cooking and commenting. I try to tell stories as much as I review food
I plan trips around where I'm going to eat..whether it be Michelin stars, triple D's or celebrity chefs.
I write Fare..Eat..Ales to capture some of the surreal and sometimes painful experiences associated with my obsession.
Follow me on twitter @fareeatales, facebook (fareeatales) or follow the blog!
Imagine a place where you can grab a coffee, pop open your computer, enter a clever password (I won’t give it away but it has something to do with a very tasty pork product) and expose yourself to seasons of scents which go from smoked vegetables to pickled onions to freshly baked bread. Welcome to the Hogtown Cure, a newish joint open at the corner of Dufferin and Dundas. Part cafe, part deli and part grab and go, I was keen to sit down and see if it would cure my wintertime blues.
The Hogtown Cure Interior
Perks
Although the hot beverages are a bit pricy, Hogtown Cure offers a wide variety of coffee elixirs, notably the red eye and black eye featuring one and two shots of espresso in a cup of drip coffee respectively. Both the coffee and espresso had a balanced tone and were of good quality and I’m pretty sure that the red eye even gave me wings.
The Hogtown Reuben was a unique spin on the classic sandwich. It was proportional from an ingredient standpoint. The homemade pastrami was super tender and reminded me of slow-cooked roast beef as opposed to the boiled, shriveled balls of meat from Shopsy’s I associated with this type of meat during my youth. The brine and the seasoning was subtly appropriate. The sauerkraut and cheese were flavourful. My only issue was that the bread was toasted and not fried on the grill. Call me picky but I crave the chewy texture of some lightly grilled fresh bread as part of a hot sandwich vs one made with crunchy of toast.
The mushroom soup was good as well. It has the earthiness of….well…earth. Not dirt, earth. The mushroom was the star and the surrounding broth was neither too flimsy nor too intense.
The Hogtown Reuben with Mushroom Soup
Sludge
Although I enjoyed the constant olfactory stimulation, I left smelling a little like a smoker…meaning a food smoker, not a chain smoker. My wafting scent coupled with my unwavering stare after sucking back a red-eye may have had resulted in a few odd glances my way afterwards, but I really didn’t care. I had a gut full of reuben and was strolling into a strong head wind which aired me out like Grandma’s pantaloons on a brisk summer day.
In most cases, I have an unnatural admiration for slaw and wasn’t fond of Hogtown’s offering. I found it had the monotone taste of wine vinegar which overwhelmed the harmony of sweet, sour and sulfur present in a great slaw.
The Final Sip
I love the concept of this place. It’s kind of like hanging out at your mom’s place doing work all afternoon while she’s slaving away at the stove concocting a plethora of her favorites. Your attempts at intellectual advancement are challenged by sultry sensations of savory sundries. The coffee is decent, the food is pretty good and you can find an electrical outlet here and there. You can even grab a few hundred grams of unique local cheese, few slabs of duck bacon or a confit leg on the way out. Let’s see mom serve that with her scalloped potatoes.
Upon entering A-OK, which over hovers over County General at the corner of Queen and Shaw, I felt like I was in a high school cafeteria, complete with pastel coloured picnic tables. Instead of long-winded calculus problems scripted on the board, a short and simple menu was presented offering eclectic spins on Asian food. The curriculum included small plate options mixed with the equally popular ramen bowls. The question would be whether the food had the same cafeteria flare as the decor.
A OK Menu (Subject to Change)
Must
The salt cod inari was a terrific start to the meal….kind of like a first period english class with a cool teacher. The wrapper was a chewy but not an uncomfortable texture housing rice that was moist, not mushy. The salt cod added subtle spots of saltiness throughout the inners of the roll. The feisty dipping sauce was cleverly spread along the rim of the plate, appealing to both the dimension of visual appeal and sapidity.
Salt Cod InariSalt Cod Inari (inside)
Maybe
The spin on the shoyu ramen was decent but it certainly wasn’t the best in the city. It was rather generic and lacked the complexity of some of the other soups. The broth was one-toned, the noodles a bit limp and the pork was tender but not remarkable. The egg was well cooked and nicely seasoned and the goji berries were a cute touch. In the end, it was satisfying but not memorable, creating an economic argument by being priced at over ten bucks a bowl.
Shoyu Ramen
The pork ssam had a messy appearance and was tricky to eat. In the end, it had a nice, fresh taste but the flavours were scattered depending on the placement and size of the bite. Not a bad snack for 5 bucks. It might have been a bit more exciting if a short course in engineering promoting self-assembly had been employed.
Pork Ssam
Mundane
My table mate ordered the Sichuan Tsukeman ramen bowl. I was tempted to do the same and I’m glad I didn’t. It was a bit of a mess. Understanding it’s a bit of a variation from the standard noodle bowls ( the broth is replaced with a spicy dipping sauce on the side) , it lacked the heartwarming nature of its Shoyu cousin. After dragging the limp noodles through the sauce, I was left with a nice quantity of spice but an oily taste that was less than appealing. The pork, egg and seaweed were interesting additions but still couldn’t cut into the monotony of the overpowering sauce. Let’s call it a cool science experiment gone slightly wrong.
Sichuan Tsukemen
My Take
A-OK foods fuses two of Toronto’s hottest culinary trends: asian inspired street food and ramen. Although it doesn’t deliver the best of either world, there were a few dishes worth talking about. As for the vibe, I only experienced the midday experience but it felt a bit like being in detention, lacking the buzz and excitement of similar eateries. In the end, the report card is such that I can’t give A-OK foods an A, but more likely a C and possibly a B minus if the salt cod inari is somewhere in the lesson plan.
I had the fortune of being in the vicinity of Yonge-Dundas square yesterday and headed over for the lunch money days campaign which was held in support of Second Harvest, an organization committed to reducing food waste while improving the food security of hundreds if not thousands of people living in Toronto.
Second Harvest (http://secondharvest.ca/) works closely with food retailers, hotels and restaurants to redistribute food to those in need. Unlike food banks, they focus on perishables such as fruits, vegetables, meat and cheeses. These foods are often discarded by institutions for a variety of reasons. This has always been a particular issue for me, both as a past food service employee and a dietitian. Furthermore, perishables are difficult to attain for many on a restrictive budget, especially in the winter due to cost and transportation issues, and are often the first omitted in efforts to control household spending.
Today’s event invited 15 or so vendors who volunteered their time and food to raise money for this worthy cause. Famed Toronto chef Mark McEwan was on hand to promote this event which I understand is near and dear to his heart. I spoke with him for a few minutes and found him to be a humble and inspiring individual….and he let me take a picture.
.
Second Harvest advocate Mark McEwan
Caplansky’s Deli
This Toronto icon was serving some of its favorites including the smoked meat sandwich with a pickle which I topped with some great hot mustard. The meat was tender and the bread was fresh. It was a traditional and classic few bites.
The maple and beef-bacon donuts were a sweet finish to the small meal. It had old school texture and was the size of an overgrown timbit. The bacon added a wee bit of salt and texture.
Caplansky’s Smoked Meat Sandwich with Maple Beef-Bacon Donuts
Ese
This mysterious pop-up was present at the event as well, offering a hot chicken masa ball soup brilliantly topped with chicharron (dried chicken skin). The sight of the clear broth steaming from Le Creuset was music to all my senses, offering relief from the nasty February elements.
Once again, RL as solid as rock, putting up a tasty lobster bisque and a lobster roll for tasting. Both were as delicious as their offerings at their Ossington location. They did tease me with a copy of their drink menu which left me longing for another taste of their Iginla Fizz..or maybe a lobster tail Caesar.
Bite size cupcakes in four flavors graced the Sullivan and Bleeker tent. I opted for the smore and red velvet options although the oreo and cookie dough choices were equally as appealing.
The lunch money days campaign is a win-win-win-win etc. Great local eateries peddle their wares and fares to new and interested diners. These diners get to experience a mish-mash of creativity in bite-size portions. Most important, second harvest gets much needed exposure and a financial boost to carry on with their important cause.
It’s always good when you go to a group dinner and can order a la carte. One of the biggest frustrations is when you have a set menu in which you can only choose from one of three entrees that are designed and prepared to appease the conservative diner. Beef (usually steak), chicken (usually roasted), fish (usually salmon) and some lame vegetarian entree (usually a regular menu item with the protein removed) populate these set menus. Needless to say, I was elated when I attended a group dinner at gusto 101 and was handed a real menu, with no restrictions or limitations.
Gusto 101 is positioned right beside Jimmy’s coffee on Portland Ave just North of King Street. There was a tremendous amount of hype as its creation materialized about a year ago. Some may call it another Italian restaurant. Others may call it a trendy trattoria. It has a very friendly website (http://www.gusto101.com) with copies of the menu, gallery pics and even a detailed explanation of their unique reservation policy and very specific expected wait times based on the day of the week and the time of night.
The private room is located in the basement. It’s a well decorated yet unfinished wine cellar with a large wooden communal table which seats about 20. There were about a dozen of us there. Most curious was the fact that about half way through our meal, 4 or 5 people were escorted in and seated at the end of our table for their own soiree. It was actually kind of neat but quite unorthodox. Nonetheless, when it comes to Italian feasts, we are all family, right?
Must
Kale can be a fussy vegetable. Gusto uses a combination of lacination (cutting into small pieces) and acid to perfect the Cavolo Nero salad. A subtle bitterness is maintained amidst the sour lemon vinaigrette, with salty and sweet accents in the form of peccarino cheese and currents rounding out the dish to touch all the tongue’s taste points. It’s a perfect example of simple and balanced preparation.
Cavolo Nero Salad
The Monday night polpette special is a simple dish of meatballs, tomato sauce and grilled tuscan bread. The meat was well seasoned and cooked to the faintest of pink which maintained moistness and excellent texture. The tangy tomato sauce was fresh and vibrant. Once again, it was an other example of traditional and rustic cooking done right.
Polpette (meatballs)
Many of the wines come in around $10 a 5 oz glass or$50 a bottle with others available at a variety of price points. Gusto offers a rather unique concept….house wine on tap served and poured from pitchers. The table opted for the Gusto Rosso (Cabernet Savignon and Malbec). It was mellow yet complex with a very drinkable character which matched reasonably well with most of the dishes on the menu. Although it may not score perfect on wine spectator, at a buck an ounce, you really can’t go wrong.
Maybe
Octopus is a risky menu item. It’s a finicky ingredient with a tiny cooking window. Yet every place that serves it boasts it has the best octopus in the city. Gusto’s claim of its Polipo (char-grilled with olive tapenade, green beans, basil oil,citrus emulsion) was no exception. The wood oven baked octopus was almost the perfect texture, but was a tad dry. The condiments, however, were not really complimentary, with overpowering flavours that took away from the intended star of the plate.
Polipo (octopus)
The prosciutto pizza was simple, topped with high quality ingredients including Pingue (a Niagara producer) prosciutto, mozzarella, tomatoes, arugula and parmigiano on a wood baked crispy crust. It was satisfying and comparable to surrounding pies but no more memorable.
Prosciutto Pizza
The dessert trio offered Crema Cotta liquore di caffe, Budino al Cioccolato (with coconut, caramel and cream) and Ravioli di Pera Fritti pear, fig with a spiced red wine reduction. My favorite was the crema cotta as it was fresh and palate cleansing. The ravioli was a bit reminiscent of a McDonald’s baked pie. The budino was served in a baby food jar, a refreshing change from the mason jars which seem to house desserts everywhere else. More importantly, the pudding was quite good although a little sweeter than I like.
Dessert Trio
Mundane
The only thing I wasn’t fond of was the Arancini (arborio rice, wild mushrooms, fontina, tomato sauce). Maybe I find this dish a bit boring in general but other than the tangy sauce, it was a starchy monotony with a taste similar to grandma’s cream of mushroom casserole.
Arancini
Also mundane is the minimal beer selection. There’s no draught beer and only a few bottle choices. Although Italy is not known for its beer selection, Toronto is. There is nothing unauthentic about throwing a few more local brews into the mix, preferably with a few on tap. A crisp local lager or a nutty amber ale would nicely compliment many of Gusto’s menu items.
My Take
Gusto’s focus is traditional Italian food within a trendy environment. Even the “semi-private” room tucked in the basement buzzes with a downtown Toronto vibe. The servers emit an aura of pride, evident through their story telling, each with a thesis promising fresh, authentic fare. For the most part, the food is delicious. In fact, I think I would have been just as happy being served a group meal providing it included the kale salad along with Monday’s meatballs (perhaps with some homemade pasta) and all washed down with free flowing dollar an ounce house wine….a far cry from the aforementioned group dinner or the oily salad, rubber chicken, cold spaghetti, stale bread and one-toned table wine normally considered an Italian celebration in other venues.
Cava is midtown Toronto’s answer to Spanish tapas. Tucked down a small alley off of Yonge street, Cava offers a modest but comfortable environment featuring a plentiful array of over 30 menu options. For the most part it errs on the traditional side, offering tapas dishes reminiscent of the mother land. In addition, there a few twists, with choices reflective of the current Toronto dining scene. It has received a number of accolades including number 5 on Joanne Kates’ 2012 top 100 list.
Must
For a guy who normally does not like olives, Cava surprised me. They were like candy. I can’t pinpoint if it was the temperature, the saltiness or the variety. but I found myself eating one after another. The price point was a very fair $3.
Warm Olives ($2.95)
The venison anticucho ($12.50) with a warm red cabbage salad featured extremely tender cuts of well-seasoned meat on a a bed of red cabbage. Each morsel was cooked a perfect medium rare. It’s one of those dishes in which you only order one and after the first bite think you should or ordered two…or three…or four. It makes you want to break every rule of tapas etiquette; You keep the plate at close range and encourage everybody to eat everything else while you subtly eat the entire thing. The cabbage salad worked but I would use it as a diversion, offering it to the table and suggesting that it’s just as good as the entire venison skewer you just devoured.
Translation: Anticucho- Cut stew meat usually skewered and served with a variety of traditional spices.
Venison Anticucho ($12.50)
The eggplant with queso fresco, honey and tomatillo ($9.75) was well constructed and well executed. Hints of the eggplant’s bitterness, sweetness of the honey, the tomatillo’s sourness and the salty richness of the cheese completely painted the tongue’s hotspots. If anything, it was a little rich but was balanced nicely otherwise.
Translation: Queso Fresco- A soft, unaged mild white cheese.
Eggplant with queso fresco, honey and tomatillo ($9.75)
Swiss chard gratin with manchego and a poached egg ($9.50)? How can one go wrong? Actually..one could but Cava produced. The chard maintained its integrity despite being suspended within a plethora of cheese. The poached egg was perfectly cooked and vamped up the dish in a way only an egg yolk can. I recommend sharing this one given there are a lot of rich flavours and a few bites will suffice.
Swiss chard gratin with manchego and a poached egg ($9.50)
Maybe
The salt cod cake with piperade and chipotle crema ($12.75) was solid. The salt in the cod was not overwhelming and the cake had adequate moisture and good texture. The tasty piperade was a bit messy and rather one-toned in flavour, missing a punch of heat or acid that might have helped the dish a bit.
Translation: Piperade- a Basque soup made with various ingredients usually including the Espelette pepper (a mild pepper cultivated in the part of France).
Salt cod cake with piperade and chipotle crema ($12.75)
The cauliflower and kabocha squash tagine with medjool dates and Spanish saffron ($9.50) was a nice rendition of the middle eastern staple. None of the ingredients were overpowering and blended together for a medley of sweet, spice, sulphur and salt.
Translation: Kaboucha- a winter squash also referred to as a Japanese pumpkin.
Cauliflower and kabocha squash tagine with medjool dates and Spanish saffron ($9.50)
The brussel sprouts with black garlic ($8.95) were tasty. Neither spectacular nor bland, the garlic was a nice change from the normal pork fat laden veggies served at most of the competing establishments.
Brussel sprouts with black garlic ($8.95)
The lemon-pistachio baked alaska with saffron pepper cake and sherry poached pears ($11) was as much a mouthful to eat as it is to say.That’s not to say it wasn’t a good mouthful. There is a bit of an art and science to eating this. The lemon is tart and needs the sweet meringue and the earthiness of the pistachio to round out the dish so a careful spoonful is needed to incorporate all the ingredients. The cake was slightly spicy and the saffron was not overpowering. The poached pears were wonderful by themselves but a bit of an odd addition to the plate from both a taste and visual appearance.
The lemon-pistachio baked alaska with saffron pepper cake and sherry poached pears ($11)
The coconut pineapple clafouti with sea buckthorn sorbet ($12) came with a 20 minute wait….I was given adequate warning. When it did arrive it appeared more like a souffle. It was fluffy and light with a wonderful mouth feel. The confusion came with the addition of the pineapple. Although it had a sweetness to it, the combination with the custard didn’t make sense, especially when topped with the acidic sorbet. The use of cherries or sweetened berries would have made this a near perfect dessert.
Translation: Clafouti- a french flan usually containing fruit.
Translation: Sea Buckthorn- a fruit similar to a gooseberry or cranberry grown in part of Europe, Asia and across Canada.
Coconut pineapple clafouti with sea buckthorn sorbet ($12)
Mundane
There was very little mundane about the food. It would have been nice, however, to have a cava-english dictionary to interpret some of the dishes. I was left to feel a bit inferior if I wasn’t clear on certain dishes, especially since there were creative liberties taken on many of the dishes offered (ie piperade and clafouti). Not that the service was bad, it was a bit pretentious.
On another note the food was fairly expensive. It’s amazing how quickly pricy tapas adds up. In addition, there were about half a dozen red and white wines by the glass. The minimum price for a 5 oz glass was $10 and went up to $25 for a 8 oz glass. This is not to say that the wine is not of a good quality, however it seems to be a bit of a gouge for somebody who simply wants a glass of wine (eg. $23 for an 8 oz glass of a wine which is $19/bottle). That being said, the bottles offer much more of a variety with a wider variety of price points.
My Take
Cava is a bit of a hidden treasure in midtown Toronto. It’s a cozy environment but clearly its focus is on the food. The large menu can be overwhelming as it is full of descriptions and definitions that are truly foreign to many. On the other hand, I could go back again and eat 8-10 different choices and be totally satisfied. I barely scratched the menu’s surface in that I didn’t order many of the traditional dishes (scallops, octopus, tripe and of course, paella) or the modern menu favorites (sweetbreads, brisket and sablefish). There are plenty of vegetarian choices which sometimes is an issue with other small plate establishments. The beer selection is scarce and wine by the glass choices are limited and on the pricy side. The desserts are served in a very shareable size and are an enterprise in creativity which offer extreme flavour and texture variations all within the same bite.
Translation: Go to cava, be decisive and bring your wallet….and your appetite.
The diversity of Toronto coffee shops range from socketed snack bars to pristine patisseries. Nadege is certainly the latter. Positioned beside Trinty-Bellwoods park, Nadege sits a bit out of place. It’s bright white exterior clashes with the surrounding landscape along Queen West. Upon entry, you are transformed in to a small, bright cafe adorned with small tables. Large glass counters house articulate creations ranging from traditional French macarons to Japanese inspired green tea cake. A large window stretching across the back wall allows patrons to witness the pastry chefs begetting delicacies while dressed with European eclat.
Green Tea Cake
Perks
Nadege has some of the best counter (premade) sandwiches in Toronto. There’s an array of choices including ham and brie, roasted vegetables, french ham and brie and fig and sandwiches of the day on either croissants or baguettes. In particular, I’m a fan of the cucumber, mature cheddar and green leaves on a croissant. It’s simple, fresh and tasty. In general, you’re going to pay $6-8 for each of these creations.
Nadege Sandwiches
The quality of the desserts and pastries are top notch. A cute gimmick are the chocolate bars, showcasing a different flavour for each letter of the alphabet. I’m not sure what’s more impressive; the variety of offerings or the keen use of english and french lexicography to cover off each letter. In my case I was drawn to “Y” for Yuzu and Cashew over the “B” for Banana or “Q” for Quatre Noix (mixed nuts). “Y” was true to its name, containing healthy chunks of cashews within silky milk chocolate with mild citrus undertones. A decent confection but a bit steep at over $10 per bar.
Yuzu et Noix de Cajou ChocolateChocolate Bar Display
Sludge
Nadege adheres to the philosophy that the age old art of brewing coffee has evolved to an espresso machine and a cup of hot water. More so is the infusion of arrogance synonymous, stereotypical or otherwise, with the french culture evident in the response to my barbaric suggestion of a dripped cup of joe. In other words, not only is there no brewed coffee, but I get attitude in suggesting that there should be. The interior is a bit sterile and unfriendly despite the attractive creations sitting within the glass and the previously mentioned display of brightly packaged chocolate bars on the opposite wall. Nadege has the ambiance of an operating room.
Americano with Mature Cheddar Croissant
The Final Sip
Nadege’s strength lies in high quality baked goods, chocolate and delicate pastries with some of the best counter sandwiches in Toronto. The lack of brewed coffee and a sterile, unfriendly environment means I’ll do take out and get my coffee elsewhere.
As far as twitter goes, Rock Lobster is a busy community. Every night I get numerous tweets and retweets from happy people raving about their recent experience. I must admit I was quite excited for a piece of the action. Walking through the door, I was looking for a place to happen and was greeted by three friendly, plaid wearing barkeeps who quickly sat me at the bar. Looking around, I felt like I was an extra in a Tragically Hip video. Nostalgic Canadian paraphernalia filled the walls and the menu followed suit, offering a near coast to coast menu. It only made sense to salute the flag and partake in the cross country adventure.
Must
Nothing signifies the start a Canadian road trip like a classic caesar. It followed all the rules including celery and steak spice with the luxury of half a lobster tail for 12 bucks. It wasn’t bland nor watery and didn’t require a fire in the hole warning either. It was yummy and spicy and good. The tail didn’t hurt either.
Classic Caesar with Lobster Tail
Ironically, the best item on the menu wasn’t lobster. A trip over the hundredth meridian offered a grilled flank steak served with homemade hickory sticks, a soft yolked duck egg and a side of homemade tangy dipping sauce for $14. The steak was grilled to absolute perfection. The egg was served with a shiny, runny yellow which would trickle down onto the crispy and smoky version of delicious of the Canadian classic snack. Despite the richness of each of the ingredients it was far from a greasy jungle; I would describe it more as hearty small plate presented with skill and determination….and grace, too.
Flank Steak with Hickory Sticks and Duck Egg
I stayed out west for my second drink of the night. I ordered an “Iginla Fizz”, a $10 modern spin on a rye and ginger. It was simple but delicious. Maybe it was the drink itself or the fact that I’ve always felt so hard done by as a Calgary fan and drinking a cocktail named after the Flames captain in Leafs nation was final and just retribution for the Gary Leeman/Doug Gilmour trade.
The “Iginla Fizz”
One of the showcases of Rock Lobster is a cooler displaying the restaurant’s namesake as well as other things born in the water. The fresh PEI malpeque oysters drew my attention, especially at a price of two and a quarter each. One of the bartenders pulled three out, shucked them and served with all the fixings including fresh horseradish she ground with a box grater right at the bar. It was a great offering other than the mignonette sauce, which I found a little off. She didn’t know for sure what she regularly shucks in a shift but figured she may do a 20o plus on a good night.
Rock Lobster Oysters
I was told the lobster roll is the mainstay of the restaurant concept itself. It had all the fireworks of the classic east coast sandwich. Chunks of lobster were coated in a rich but not overbearing mayo and served on a fresh and lightly toasted roll. Normally served with fries and a McClure’s pickle, I asked if they could sub the fries and they gladly doubled the pickle. This may not sound that exciting, but these pickles have been considered some of the best in the business for a long time running.
Lobster Roll
Maybe
Rock Lobster’s Quebec contribution was a lobster poutine. The fresh fries hit the mark, the cheese curds were authentic but the bisque gravy fell a bit short. Although full of flavour, the bisque was a little scarce and served luke warm which prevented the heart of the melt, a bit of a cardinal sin in the poutine world. I know it didn’t blow my mind but I couldn’t figure out if it left me yawning or snarling.
Lobster Poutine
I have a confession. One of the twitter feeds bragged about diners enjoying whale tails which left me wondering if this was a taboo spin on the Parkdale offal movement. Much to my relief, the “whale tail” was instead a spin on the classic Canadian beaver tail pastry. It was a crispy and nicely presented, coated in cinnamon sugar and served on a chuck of tree with a shaker of maple sugar. It came with a few irrelevant trickles of creme anglaise. It was good enough but wasn’t too hard puttin’ down.
Whale Tail
My Take
Rock Lobster has rapidly become a lionized addition to the Ossington strip. The service was friendly, attentive and didn’t take forever. I can’t explain the exact feeling, but it has a modern spirit that so many foodies crave as much as the grub itself. The ironic coupling of extensive twitter hype with a certain degree of secrecy, the dark canuck ambiance and most importantly the solid execution of a cross-section of Canadian classics from hickory sticks to lobster tails define this eatery as a pelagic pinnacle as opposed to a nautical disaster.
En route’s designation of best new Canadian restaurant and an impressive debut as number 11 on Joanne Kates’ top 100 of 2012 certainly raised my curiosity about Edulis, the small bistro which opened in 2012 along Niagara Street. The philosophy of Edulis can be summarized as a juxtaposition of the elements of fine dining and the hipster joints plastered up the road along Queen street . Upon entry, you are greeted with a hello, a coat check and waitstaff donning traditional black uniforms. You are seated at a table within the small dining space within an atmosphere which possesses a subtle yet enjoyable aura of chaos. The decor is highlighted by a variety of paintings and pictures, marble tables and dim candlelight while at the same time possessing a flare both rustic and rundown. A daily menu is printed featuring core offerings with additional fare based on ingredient availability with truffles as the specialty. A carte blanche menu is also available with 5 courses for $50 or 7 for $70. Although I didn’t order myself, some of the choices included veal three ways- tongue, belly and sweetbread and a pork belly and shoulder offering. There is a decent wine offering (8 glasses plus 50 or so bottles) as well as homemade non-alcoholic sodas with odd flavours which include burdock, hibiscus and ginger with szechwan pepper. The latter was divine.
Must
The cele”rissoto” was a spin on traditional risotto, opting for the winter favorite celery root instead of the traditional arborio rice. The centrepiece was a square of toast topped with fois gras. It managed to create a mouth feel similar to the traditional dish while maintaining the subtle earthiness of the celeriac. I’m not sure if the draw for me was the unique nature of the dish itself or the surreal nature of taking bite after bite and trying to figure out how they did it. Either way, it was addictive. In fact, the fois gras became second nature.
Cele”risotto”
In a world filled with different shaped pasta served in different sized bowls soaking in truffle oil, the thought of homemade potato ribbons swimming in a rich sauce and topped with fresh white truffles was a refreshing thought, even with a price tag of $36. Once again, the execution was flawless; the potatoes were perfectly cooked and a refreshing change from the ubiquity of standard gnocchi. From the first bite, I was filled with a comfort reminiscent of grandma’s perfect scalloped potatoes yet mixed with the exquisite nature of the precious white fungus…sort of like moving from the comfort of a cozy terrycloth robe to one made of fine silk.
Potato Pasta with White Truffle
I’m quite nostalgic when it comes to the preservation of elements of fine dining. The disappearance of the amuse bouche and fresh bread has plagued the dining scene so it is quite refreshing when a restaurant adheres to old school philosophies. An anchovy-stuffed manzanilla olive was proudly offered along side some of the best homemade bread I’ve had in a while. It was a rustic, dense loaf served in a nifty cotton bag; a refreshing change from the normal offering of semi-stale crusty loaf inside a frayed wicker basket. Normally, the bread is meant to hold one over until the real food arrives, but I found myself devouring slices well after the first course arrived.
Maybe
Shrimp ceviche and ajo blanco (a cold, white garlic based soup) are quite different in everything except temperature so I was interested to experience the marriage of the two. The ajo blanco was fresh and although a little on the acidic side, it was generally well-balanced and contained a decent amount of roasted almonds. However, the ceviche concept was a bit lost in the dish. There was no distinct citrus flavor or heat and although the shaved onion worked, the cilantro clashed with the ajo blanco base. The saving grace of the dish was both the flawless execution of the shrimp and the brilliant balance of the soup. I’m just not sure they go well together.
Ceviche in Ajo Blanco
Another childhood favorite of mine is tapioca pudding so I was pleased to see it offered as a dessert, especially when coupled with the vibrant flavour of meyer lemons. It was served with the texture of a thick soup more than pudding and the lemon flavour was quite predominant. The preserved apricot did little to enhance the dessert other than adding a bit of chewiness and not enough sweet. I will admit I ordered a lot of creamy dishes throughout the night so perhaps a dessert with the same colour and texture profiles was a bit much.
Tapioca Pudding with Meyer Lemon
My Take
Edulis is a unique addition to Toronto’s fine dining scene. Perfect execution highlights the menu which merges old school fine dining with hip and trendy cuisine. Candlelight meets chaos. Suit wearing lawyers sit among thick-rimmed twenty somethings. Marble tables erected beside porcelain bathroom tiles. The choice of a $100 bottle of wine or a $3 glass of grape soda. You can gamble on a carte blanche menu or indulge on rich truffles. Even co-owner Tobey Nemeth personifies the juxtaposition, wearing a trendy tiger print dress while the remaining staff don the traditional black uniforms. You can even pick your price to a degree but temptation could lead to a bill well over a hundred bucks. Regardless of which side of the spectrum you fall on, in the end you’ll be treated to both great food and great service. There’s no dichotomy there.
I was quite prepared for a posh soiree as I strolled into the small Bloor Street mall, past the Gucci and Cartier stores to enter the lavish environment which is La Societe. Unlike a number of other French bistros in Toronto, La Societe is quite expansive, with stained glass reminiscent of l’eglise and a bar with a Hollywood-like bibliotheque. Not surprising for a Charles Khabouth joint. The question was whether it would be a scenic adventure with little substance or if the food would be as appealing to taste as the scenery was to observe.
Must
Perhaps most ironic was the fact that the best dish wasn’t french. Ceviche is all about balance and La Societe’s version hit the mark. Aggressive citrus and chili accents elevated the subtle and fresh trio of scallops, shrimp and snapper. Be warned though…it’s a small portion for about 250 pesos ($21).
Seafood Ceviche ($21)
Maybe
The duck confit was a combination of roasted breast and a croquette-like portion of leg. The breast was quite average due to it’s rather tough texture and unimpressive rendering of the fatty cut. Hands down, the highlight of the plate was the croquette. Nicely fried and full of flavour, it was stuffed with tender shreds of duck leg which was nicely balanced with the tangy cherry jus.
Duck Confit ($29)
Most desserts were priced in the double digits . The Tahitian vanilla creme brulee was tasty but unremarkable. The lemon tart was equally as predictable, tasting less like a rich, tangy curd and more like my mom’s early attempts at a lemon meringue pie. The hazelnut chocolate bar with salted caramel ice cream was a bit more exciting but a little outdated. In the end, the desserts were a bit ennuyeux.
Creme BruleeLemon TartHazelnut Chocolate Bar
Mundane
It wasn’t so much the food, but the value that was quite mundane. Here are a few examples:
Dover Sole $48. Ok. I’ve give you that…it sells for up to $75 in New York.
Dover Sole ($48)
Steak Frites $32. Ok, that’s a little steep.
Steak Frites ($32)
The duck confit and seafood ceviche were $29 and $21 respectively. Other possible choices included $24 mussels or vegetarian cavatelli, $13 french onion soup and an $18 burger. I appreciate the interior like the Louvres but the menu is priced like its souvenir shop.
My Take
La Societe bistro is not a bistro. Wikipedia defines a bistro as “a small restaurant serving moderately priced simple meals in a modest setting”. This restaurant is not small, the food is not cheap and the setting is not modest. The layout is expansive and uncharacteristic of most french bistros (making me question the lack of intimacy), the food is decent but with markups similar to the Gucci purses downstairs and the decor is anything but modest. To be fair, they do have a decent prix fixe menu at $44. As long as Yorkville remains the epitome of lavish spending, La Societe will blend in but it will be interesting to see if the migration of the luxury hotels and accommodations to other areas of town pressures this and other local eateries to come down to earth a little with pricing. Until then, I’ll seek my scenery at the Royal Ontario Museum and indulge on ceviche elsewhere. C’est la vie!
Much like trends that surge in a given year, there are many that begin to fade away. Here are my predictions of the Toronto food trends that should curtail in 2013.
1. Beet to Death
Almost every menu offers a beet salad of some kind. They are cheap, earthy and offer a pretty colour to a plate. They are however, very distinct. This uniqueness usually results in a short shelf life. Plus, root vegetables take turns being in favour. Just ask a sweet potato. They had to step aside for the beet and a new tuber should soon reign supreme. Perhaps an heirloom carrot, parsnip or even the relatively unknown sunchoke?
2. Doubt the Sprout
Despite its sinister reputation among the young, the brussel sprout has become the cool cruciferous vegetable in the past few years, offering a perfect marriage with other in vogue flavours like hot sauce and bacon fat. However, with other greens such as collards, swiss chard and mustard greens gaining popularity, I suspect the brussel sprout will lose some of its spark and go back to being the low point of many a childhood.
3. Pig: The Magical Animal
Pork is no longer the other white meat; it is THE white meat. Thick chops and pork belly have dominated menus in the past few years. Bacon has been used to wrap everthing from steak to scallops to ice cream. The combination of demand for lighter foods coupled with expected increases in pork prices in 2013 should see the presence of pork diminish somewhat across the board. That being said, bacon will be coveted and pork will remain a key component in ramen dishes, but don’t be surprised to see more chicken (in an attempt to gain the white meat status back) and beef options emerge as a replacement to the mighty pig.
4. Feelin’ Blue
Strong flavours will be replaced with more mild ones and cheese is no exception. The intensity of the bold blues, including gorgonzola will be replaced by lighter cheeses with more subtle flavour. The use of blue as a base for rich creamy pasta sauces (especially vegetarian ones) should fall out favour for more acidic, zingy ones.
5. Falling Flat
Flatbreads are pizzas for places that don’t make pizza. Once a popular appetizer, flatbread is a canvas to display other popular ingredients such as short rib, mushrooms and asparagus with white, red and barbeque sauce foundations. The novelty has worn off as diners are satisfied with the toppings reconstructed in novel and abstract ways minus the bland and often overcooked dough.
6. Holy Aioli!
Chipotle mayos, basil aiolis and other thick and sinful sauces should give way to vegetables based dips, sauces and condiments. The trend toward the focus on fresh and local ingredients doesn’t necessarily include mayonnaise and oil but may favor tangy, tomato jams, spicy chimichurris and vibrant pestos instead.
7. “Poutin'”
Call me crazy but the life cycle of poutine may be coming to an end. The classic Quebec dish has evolved to include lobster, brisket and pulled pork as well as modifications to the traditional beef or chicken gravy. The pendulum is swinging in the direction of lighter flavours. In the end, poutine, regardless of the version, is a salty and fatty mess to the extreme, one which will soon return to be reserved primarily for the after bar crowd.
8. Taking a Slide
Despite the number of new restaurants opening promoting sliders of all kinds, in all likelihood they will not sustain the popularity of the past couple of years. The initial simple slider gave way to newer ideas like pulled pork or beef topped with kimchi, slaw or fois gras. There may be some survival among the many small plate restaurants, but sliders have quickly become an outdated novelty. The advent of competitive burger joints have swung the pendulum back toward the large chin-dripping mains and away from the dainty, often dried out finger sandwiches.
9. “Not”ella
Nutella has gone from a rare childhood vice to a condiment which recently seems to grace everything from grilled cheese to crepes to burgers. The hazelnut spread has been elevated to iconic levels in the past couple of year with many restaurants going as far as displaying various sized nutella jars in their establishments like some kind of award or trophy. Not that it will go away, but the jars should come down with diner’s reactions shifting from 2012’s “Cool, this place has nutella” to 2013’s “Oh, nutella…again”.
10. Muffle the Truffle
Truffle oil is not a truffle. It’s a cheaper, liquid version of the exquisite fungus which has been grossly overused in everything from popcorn to pasta. Truffle is like fish sauce and saffron; if you use too much once, it resonates to every similar dish afterwards. Truffle is meant to subtly complement other flavours, not be the main flavour and too many dishes are offered without this understanding. Similar to Newtonian law, as the numbers of those who have been subject to truffle oil abuse increase, its popularity will decrease.
Fare..Eat..Ales 