Stories Inspired by Pop Culture and a Little Comestible Criticism
Author: spennyrd
I like concerts, consuming, cooking and commenting. I try to tell stories as much as I review food
I plan trips around where I'm going to eat..whether it be Michelin stars, triple D's or celebrity chefs.
I write Fare..Eat..Ales to capture some of the surreal and sometimes painful experiences associated with my obsession.
Follow me on twitter @fareeatales, facebook (fareeatales) or follow the blog!
In Toronto, ramen houses are the new black of Toronto, topping popular trends such as sushi bars and taquerias on the foodie fad lists of late. They are appearing on every street corner with huge variation in both presentation and price. Kinton Ramen, backed by the emerging Guu empire, is one of the leaders of the pack offering a mid-priced soup with mid-range Guuesque song and dance.
Heeding the warnings of other bloggers and posters, I ventured to Kinton Ramen at the tail end of their lunch hours (about 2:15) to avoid the rush. I arrived to a restaurant about three quarters full and was seated at the bar near the door almost immediately. It’ s a modest but pleasant environment without the high decibel levels of its Guu sisters, which is fitting for its location along Baldwin street.
Maybe
I opted for the Shio Ramen in a effort to get a good pulse on their version of the trendy soup. It’s milky looking broth lacked the visual appeal of some of the other noodle soups I’ve had. If you really like pork, you’ll like this ramen. If you like pork more than soup, you’ll like this ramen. If you think pork is the other white meat…you get the point. I expected a fragrant broth with multidimensional tastes and flavours but this was trumped by an overwhelming pork taste driven by the shoulder, belly and broth itself. The belly itself was delicious and tender. The noodles erred on the side of underdone. The seasoned egg was a nice addition but lacked a bit of the flowing yolkiness I usually enjoy with a ramen soup.
Shio Ramen
Mundane
Like spicy tuna sushi, gyoza are one of those things I automatically order on a menu (unless when I’m at Moxie’s or where they want 12 bucks to make 6 dumplings look pretty). At Kinton, for 3.5 you get 4. The surrounding dough was tough and chewy. I opened one up to give the filling a fair chance as a stand alone , but the scarce ball of under seasoned ground pork inside was almost as lackluster as the dough itself. I have purchased store bought dumplings which I’ve done in a home steamer and fried that have tasted better.
Gyoza (pork dumplings)
My Take
Kinton Ramen is a decent lunch spot with a reasonable price point but with the number of other lunch spots along Baldwin St. it wouldn’t be my first choice. It will be interesting to see if the ramen rage is a phase or a sustainable lunch option moving forward. The future of places like this will hinge on the sustainability of this trend because, although I did not try any other “sides” it appears that, based on the gyoza, at Kinton you should stick with the ramen and that ordering anything else might be a crap shoot….literally.
The dining scene in Toronto has diversified over the past few years. Gone is the choice between snooty white linen, chain restaurants or seedy local bars. Diners are looking for more than food, they want an experience which will either complement or overshadow the food itself.
Guu Sakabar is marketed as an experience gone Gangnam style, characterized by loud music, singing cooks and a modernized version of old school Japanese dining including removing your shoes to sit at a kotatsu (low Japanese table which puts your head at eye level to your server’s knees). Some may see it as fun, hip and lively, others may see it an adult Chuck-e-Cheese or a glorified Lick’s. Most of the dishes are simply prepared and presented.
Must
The Hokke (mackerel) was a simple grilled fish, lightly seasoned and presented bone-in. No instruction was provided on proper boning technique so it may present an annoyance for some. The fish was cooked perfectly, moist and flaky and it was a good-sized portion. The only issue was it came 10-15 minutes after everything else which made it a little less appealing to eat.
Hokke (mackerel)
Maybe
The Ebimayo (fried prawns with spicy mayo) were decent. The prawns themselves were a good size, cooked right but were too slathered in the less than impressive mayo which made them a bit soggy.
There are a number of maybes on the menu depending on one’s personal taste. The grilled beef tongue (Gyu Tongue) was a unique dish simply seasoned with salt. It had a good flavour but has challenging liver-like texture which may not appeal to the masses. The Tontoro (pork cheek), is once again simply prepared but may be a bit too fatty for some palates, especially if the fat is not rendered enough.
Regarding the experience, the environment is loud and the service is sketchy. It was very difficult to order extra food, get a drink or even the bill. I’ve already commented about the mackerel. Some may argue that the organized chaos adds to the fun but to me it’s an annoyance especially if it interferes with the flow of the meal. In addition, they have a rather ridiculous reservation policy which can be summarized as “We will only accept reservations when it’s not busy”.
My Take
A visit to Guu is like landing a gig as an extra on a bad Japanese game show or a B-rated film. The “fun” atmosphere is loud, chaotic and only adequate for conversation if you’re on a bad first date or with your mother-in-law. The set-up is not conducive to organized and efficient service. There is a wide variety of well-prepared simple and more exotic foods in reasonable portions for sharing which appeals to a spectrum of diners (including about a dozen vegetarian options if you don’t include the free smiles, passion and cheers).
In sum, it’s a good place to go if you have a small group with a variety of taste, if you don’t care about talking to them too much and if you have a lot of patience. Just keep an eye over your shoulder in case you spy Psy eating tontoro in Toronto or there is a random attack from Godzilla or Mothra.
Once upon a time there was a restaurant called Ursa… (after all, an exciting dining experience should be like a good story).
Positioned in the middle of Caju and County General on Queen near Shaw, it’s one of those cloaked foodie joints meaning it’s usually pretty busy without the online fanfare of a Grand Electric or Kinton Ramen (this is foreshadowing…stay tuned).
I was immediately greeted by Lucas, one of the co-owners and great storyteller. I was seated at the bar and was greeted by Robin, a bartender and equally good storyteller with a love for bourbon and homemade vermouth. It was quickly evident that both had a extreme passion for food and drink, a passion that I hoped would translate into a great dinner.
Must
Here’s where the story begins. I was told that the elk tartare was phenomenal and that the elk was singled sourced out of an farm in Kitchener and 7 muscle groups were incorporated into the final product. Impressive! I was warned in advance that it lacked some of the attributes of the traditional tartare including eggs and scallions. It was presented eloquently with a cracker, a bitter orange sauce and a piece of charqui (elk jerky). It could of used a bit of seasoning but in the end the meat spoke for itself. It was phenomenal.
Elk Tartare
Before retirement, according to Lucas, Joanne Kates (highly respected Globe and Mail food critic), said that Ursa served one of the best lemon meringue pies in Toronto. I can’t disagree. The pie had an abstract presentation, offered in a deconstructed fashion featuring a rich lemon curd, a fluffy meringue and a crust bound with rich duck fat. Not only was it delicious, it was an adventure and actually fun to eat.
Lemon Tart
Regarding cocktails, there is as much attention to detail towards the drinks as there is the food. I tried the Red Horn, signature bourbon cocktail (ask Robin about it…it’s quite a story and has won awards) as well as the daily smashed cocktail (in this case it was a gin/fennel mix which was delicious).
Red Horn CocktailSmashed Cocktail
Maybe
For a main, I settled on the lingcod. The fish was cooked perfectly. It was served with a lack luster foam when, combined with the cassava and potato, had a monotonous flavour. The saving grace was the white peach, which offered a sour crunch which offered a needed flavour and texture contrast. The sage was a nice touch.
Lingcod
Another good story was the Santa Rosa plum salad. There are only a few hundred of these plum trees in Canada, and Ursa managed to partner with a farmer in BC to get them for the menu. The salad was beautifully presented and the plums were divine but I was left wanting more. The salad was under dressed and lacked a bit of the complexity I would expect for a $14 salad.
Santa Rosa Plum Salad
Mundane
I’d consider Ursa a bit stubborn. It is next to impossible to find a current menu online since their website is nothing more than a holding page with an address and a phone number. When you do see the menu, it is quite small. In fact, a couple walked in and out after viewing the menu and only seeing goat, rabbit and lingcod as traditional entrees. On the other hand, there are both good quality vegetarian starters and mains on the menu which may appeal to some. Others will argue it is expensive for the amount of food but personally I find it pretty comparable to similar joints in the area.
Elusive Ursa Menu- Subject to change Frequently.
My Take
Ursa is like a good picture book. Both the restaurant’s decor and presentation of the food are very visually appealing , edgy and comes with a great story. If you don’t like mysteries, however, this may not be the place for you. Even with the menu as a guide, the dishes are a bit unpredictable but at the same time kind of exciting. What I can say is that Ursa is an experience with beautifully presented dishes using unique and quality ingredients and if you get the full experience you may very well live happily ever after….The End.
Yes, this is my first trip to Europe as I wasn’t privy to travel in my younger years. So, after almost 4 decades, I crossed the Atlantic, landing in Barcelona, Spain. Having spent the better part of two days there, I made the following observations:
1. People in Spain walk slow.
2. Wifi is difficult to find.
3. Everybody wears scarves.
4. A beer and sandwich combo is cheaper than a soda and sandwich combo at the airport.
5. The architecture is fantastic.
6. You need your room key to turn on your lights.
7. You can buy almost anything on the street including beer, umbrellas, street food, flowers etc.
8.The food is pretty good.
Since this is a food blog, I will focus on the latter. The food choices are endless. Every nook and cranny is jammed with small eateries, each promising a special variety of decor, personality and of course, food. The restaurants range from off the menu to choosing off a tray under a pane of glass. I can best describe it as simple. No garnish, no explanation, just the food.
A Tale of Two Tapas.
Ciudad Condal had a long wait but I was seated within 30 minutes.
Their flauta was probably the simplest yet the best thing I ate in the two days I was in Barcelona. Simply, it’s chorizo inside a small loaf of bread for about three euros. The crunch of the bread followed by the rich chorizo was perfect. I put a little machego cheese inside my second one which added some saltiness as well.
The patatas bravas are Spain’s version of poutine. They are basically potatoes covered in a creamy aioli and hot sauce. Also of honourable mention were the fried Padron peppers, simply prepared with salt and olive oil. The nature of these peppers are generally mild but a few on the plate pack a hot punch, leading to the term “Unos Picans Otros No” meaning some are hot, some are not. I was lucky to get a few biters. A great dish was the potatoes topped with fried eggs (Huevos Cabreados). It is a simple but delicious dish; matchstick fried potatoes topped with soft fried eggs cut table side.
I’m a huge flan fan. The creamy spanish flan was a nice ending and was not overly sweet despite the abundant caramelized sugar.
The service was fast, friendly and efficient.
Chorizo Flautas at CiudadPatatas BravasPadron Peppers at CiudadHuevos Cabreados (Matchstick Potatoes with Egg-Yum)Caramel Flan at Ciudad
I’m always drawn by places with good reputations and high Zagat ratings. Tapas 24 fit the category in both regards. Much different than Ciudad Condal, Tapas 24 is situated in a basement just off the beaten path of the tourist section. It was about 11 pm and the place was packed. When I was seated I noticed a much smaller, yet more expensive menu than Ciudad. It was certainly more run down but was filled with character. I was seated at the bar so I could see the open kitchen which was run old school, with orders called from paper tickets stuck on magnetic boards and run like a well-oiled machine.
I started with the standard patatas bravas which were shaped like fries and looked a bit a bit dismal compared to the chunky potatoes at Ciudad. It was followed by the bikini (a bit of an ironic name given it’s a grilled ham and cheese sandwich). In this case if was flavoured with some shaved black truffle which was subtle as opposed to overpowering (it’s a fine line when it come to truffle). However, it was a bit imbalanced since the smoked ham I so enjoy was drowned out by the buffalo mozzarella. It was basically a nine Euro fancy grilled cheese. I finished with calamares (squid) recommended by a guy who looked and dressed like he should don a red cape and run away from bulls. It was simply presented, seasoned with olive oil and when mixed with the bitter, leaking squid ink provided a good balance. Not sure it was worth 16 euro, but it was certainly unique.
I didn’t realize Spain would have such good ice cream. In particular was a place called Belgious. Situated in what seemed to be a shady back alley along the goth section of the ramblas (maybe it was also the fact it was past midnight), my broken Spanish saw the word exotic and ice cream together and I was sold. I was able to sample a number of flavours including gin and tonic, szechuan pepper, curry and cannibus..yes cannibus. I ended up settling on a combination of thyme (my favourite spice) and Modena vinegar with raspberries. Delish! No picture though..a bit too shady to pull the Blackberry out.
On another note, there are great markets in Barcelona. I managed to visit two during my travels. La Concepcio is located not far from downtown Barcelona. It’s a smaller market with a wonderful seafood selection (the meat and chicken isn’t bad either) . In fact, you don’t even smell the fish despite the fact you’re surrounded by it. Both offered a wide variety of meats, chicken and some of the best fish I have ever seen. La Boqueria is perhaps the most well-known and busiest market and was certainly bustling when I was there. Once again, the seafood was amazing, complete with huge oysters and fresh fish butchered on the spot. There was a variety of prepared foods such squid on a skewer and fresh juices. I quenched my palate with a mango coconut juice for a couple of euros.
Oysters at the MarketPrawns at the MarketProduce at the MarketSquid on a Skewer at the Market
I hit the George Payne bar as well which offers great soccer, confusing drink specials and not so good food.
Reminiscent of Big Foot or Rob Ford jogging, food trucks are a rather elusive sighting in Toronto. Bound by by-laws which do not allow more trucks to attain permanent residency in the downtown core, they are forced to travel like Nomads making it a bit of a feat to find one that is open on any given day. Check out http://torontofoodtrucks.ca/ for information about food trucks in Toronto.
As I approached the corner of Front and Sherbourne in search of Hogtown Smoke, I caught a whiff of the smoked meat about a block away. I happened to be second in line so I was able to sample some of the brisket right out of the smoker before I even ordered. Although it took a while to get rolling after a minor gas malfunction (which I appreciated because it allowed me to stare at the small menu like an idiot for 15 minutes without a clue what I was going to order)., the window opened and I was greeted by the friendly staff members. Specials included a kimchi grilled cheese and side ribs in addition to the traditional pulled pork, poutine, brisket, po’ boy sandwiches and kicked up grilled cheese. I opted for the ribs, brisket and poutine to get a taste for a bit of everything. The staff joked with the building crowd, apologizing for the delays and asking everybody their names.
Must
St. Louis Side Ribs ($10)
New to the truck, I was a little leery since side ribs are not as forgiving as back ribs and are easy to mess up. They came through by fulfilling the holy trinity of rib triumph; crunchy bark (although a bit salty), a deep pink smoke ring and fall off the bone tenderness. They were supposed to be served with baked beans and slaw but in the lunacy of opening I did not get the slaw so I can’t comment. The beans were very saucy, had great texture and bubbly flavours driven by the unmistakable sassifrassness of root beer. Imagine a baked bean flavoured Jelly Belly jelly bean and you’ve got the taste.
St. Louis Side Ribs with Root Beer Beans
2 lb Pulled Pork Poutine ($10)
This alliterative aliment almost achieves all acclaimed attributes (of a good poutine). Poutine has its own holy trinity characterized by fabulous fries, great gravy and cheese curds. Hogtown almost reached divinity. The fries were a good size, taste and texture (which is tough since poutine fries get really mushy, really fast). The pulled pork got bonus points. It had a huge, juicy pork flavour and good seasoning. My one criticism was the final execution because the curds didn’t melt under the gravy. A small thing, but a traditional poutinist may pou-pou it.
2 lb Pulled Pork Poutine
Patron Jalapeno Mango Sauce
Use the Patron Jalapeno Mango sauce in anyway you can. It’s fantastic and can best be described as Big Mac sauce on steroids. I would go as far as baking up six High Liner fish sticks and bring them in a zip lock bag just so I could taste this sauce over and over again.
Maybe
Brisket ($10)
The brisket sandwich was sliced thin, piled fairly high and served on a good size swirly rye-type bun. At the recommendation of the staff, I topped it with the spicy barbeque sauce and horseradish aioli. The meat was busting with flavour with minimal grit but it was a bit dry. The sauces helped to moisten it up a bit, making it quite a good sandwich.
Beef Brisket Sandwich
Mundane
Not much other than the early service disruption and the fact they forget my slaw!
My Take
Hopefully food trucks are here to stay because they provide limitless variety and creative license. Hogtown smoke didn’t disappoint, offering traditional smoke house flavours with modern twists. The ribs approached divinity. The poutine may have reached sainthood. Like many trucks, the biggest issue is execution and speed of service. These are good guys with a good attitude and a good concept. I’d endure minor traffic and a small crowd to come back. Hell, I might even start going to church again.
I remember listening to the song “Signs” by Five Man Electrical Band (and later Tesla) when growing up. It speaks of the tribulations of a hippie trying to get a job or into a country club without a membership card. It was a scream at the state of society in the early 70s and reminds me of what it’s like trying to enjoy a meal in a restaurant in 2012.
The rules have changed in food service and establishments since the Five Man Electrical Band but remain as outdated as they were back then. Currently, establishments will have you believe that their rules are not an expression of pretension but in fact a matter of improving efficiency and adhering to good business practices. I call bull shit. Here are the some of the most ridiculous rules in food service today:
1. No Reservations with No Regret
I question any establishment who informs me that at this time “we regret at this time we are unable to accept reservations”. Open Table provides online reservations for over 25 000 restaurants across North America. Each one of these restaurants is “able” to accept reservations. Last time I checked the combination of a phone number, a hostess and a paper calendar is another way to ensure that people reserve a seat. I commend any restaurant whose success warrants an exclusion from the need to make a reservation, but it doesn’t help when meeting friends you haven’t seen in years or trying to impress a girlfriend, spouse or customer. “Hey, honey, I knew you’d enjoy standing in line for 45 minutes for the privilege of eating here” sounds much more romantic rolling of the tongue than “I knew you’d like this place so I made a reservation a month ago to make sure we could get in”.
As an example, the Mandarin, one of the busiest buffet restaurants in Ontario, willingly takes reservations although they don’t really need to so you don’t have to leave Gramma standing in the front door waiting for her chicken balls.
2. “As a result of our policy, we won’t seat you until your entire party has arrived”.
I’m puzzled by this one. I recently went to a restaurant where I was footing the bill for 9 people who were in various meeting during the day. I made a reservation (see it works!), let everybody know and was informed at the door, despite 8 of the 9 of us arriving, that we would not be seated until the whole party showed. I suppose I understand the fact that it makes much more sense to clog the doorway with people waiting to eat than just sitting them down and letting them start on overpriced cocktails and appetizers. I guess I could of loaded up the clown car and have us all roll in at the same time so as not to create any inconvenience for the restaurant.
3. “We can’t give you separate bills”
I challenge anybody to ask the poor waiter or waitress the reason for this policy. I guarantee you will be 25 different answers ranging from “It’s just our policy” to “our system doesn’t allow us to separate the bills”. I can’t argue with the first one since the answer is so clear and logical. Policy is policy. The second is amusing. I mean, you have a system that allows you to hit a computer screen with your finger and spit out a ticket to tell the kitchen that you want a medium well burger with extra pickle, no mayo and onion rings instead of fries but it can’t split a bill. You are also suggesting that your system is unable to take a $180 bill among 6 people and split it evenly. I’m sure any ten-year old has this same question on a math test and can figure out using a Texas Instruments calculator.
4. Cash Only
I understand that credit card companies are greedy, money-grubbing scum but they’re damn convenient. They let you spend what you want on a meal without having to do the calculations in your head based on the money in your pocket. I’d hate to skip out on the key lime pie because I ordered a side of grits with my brisket and only have 40 bucks in cash. There are surcharges that restaurants endure to carry Visa/MC/AMEX which increases business costs, but in many cases they are absorbed when pricing the menu.
I guess what I don’t understand is the fact that the “cash only” concept is now considered hip by some. I’ve been in a few restaurants where the server has proudly informed me of the policy with or without a phony apology. Others raise their eyebrows as passively stare at the “Cash only” written on the blackboard while clearing their throat. Don’t get me wrong, there are some helpful places. Some are kind enough to install an ATM in the establishment so you can absorb all the costs including whatever service charge they program into the machine. Another was kind enough to tell me that I could order first and that the nearest bank machine was about 500 metres down the road. I left and it felt good.
Don’t misunderstand me. I’m not adverse to paying cash, especially at food trucks, bars and hot dog carts. However, I don’t like being forced to do it, especially when I’m racking up a decent bill with drinks, entrees etc. It’s not like I see a significant cost savings passed to me especially when I’m sitting in a near condemned house at a formica table with mismatched chairs eating $14 eggs bennie off corningware plates I saw at a yard sale last week.
So, things really haven’t changed much since 1970. Whereas then you had to have a tie and a membership card to get inside, today you just need patience, your whole group and a big wad of cash.
I arrived in Toronto around 10:20 on Thursday night, parked and headed down the road to Momofuku noodle house, the much discussed David Chang restaurant in the Shangri-La Hotel on University Ave. Open for only a few days, the place was packed. I was greeted at the entrance and was able to bypass the crowd, not because I’m a famous food blogger but because I was solo and they had a single spot at the bar.
I was seated beside a rather distraught guy who seemed utterly confused by the hype of the place given the small menu, which offered a mere five bowls with some buns and sides and no dessert. He eventually had his many questions answered and settled on something. I was quickly greeting by a pleasant waitress who offered me a glass of water (which wasn’t empty for the rest of the night) and a quick explanation of the menu. I immediately noticed the precision and efficiency of the open kitchen which, like the service, ran like a symphony.
I settled on a seven spice sour slushie (sake, togarashi, yuzu, lime ($10))…say that 5 times fast or you get cut off… to start. A bit off the wall but a decent cocktail despite a few episodes of brain freeze due to the large straw and the fact that I drink like an eight-year old. I ordered pork buns, the ramen bowl, pickles and smoked wings. Within 15 minutes, the pickles arrived, followed by the buns and noodles. There was a mixup with the wings so I didn’t get them until for a while after the rest of the order came.
Must
The steamed pork buns ($10) were the highlight. A bit of a twist on the popular dim sum item, they were presented open-faced and filled with a tender pork belly and seasoned with a sweet sauce. Good thing I was dining alone because I might of fought somebody if they went for the second one.
Steamed pork buns ($10)
Maybe
The ramen itself was beautiful and traditionally presented, complete with nori, pork two ways (shoulder and belly), and a soft egg. There was also a fish cake and a chinese cabbage. The pork, egg and ramen were cooked perfectly and the cabbage had a briny taste which contrasted the richness of the belly nicely. The broth, however, was a bit confusing. Quite dark in colour, it had an almost burnt taste which overpowered the other components of the bowl. I normally expect a broth to bring it all together, not stand out on its own. Perhaps I’m not as familiar with Chef’s Chang’s flavour profile, but I was left scratching my head.
Momofuku Ramen ($14)
I love pickles and will order them whenever I can. Momofuku’s version were presented in a small jar and mainly consisted of onions, carrots and cauliflower. It took me a bit to realize the bottom of the jar was lined with a mushroom cap as well. The vegetables were still crisp and tasty if you really like vinegar. On the other hand, I didn’t get the mushroom. After what seemed like an eternity, I finally pried it loose and could only manage a bite or two before giving up.
Pickle Jar ($6)
Mundane
I got roped in by the smoked chicken wings with pickled chili, garlic and scallion. As mentioned above, I didn’t get them right away but had a good opportunity to watch the preparation method in the open kitchen. They are browned on the griddle, broiled, seasoned and served. They were a good size and well seasoned but still contained a lot of unrendered fat which made them a bit too greasy. There’s no way I could eat anymore than two.
Smoked Wings ($12)
My Take
The opening of Shangra-La will bring some solid New York inspired dining along University avenue, an area in need of more eateries. Momofuku noodle bar is the first stab and comes with the backing of David Chang and his Michelin stars. As a result, there will be a lot of hype and a few people may be disappointed, especially given the fact it can be considered a bit on the pricy side. At the same time, this place will succeed and promise to offer a constantly evolving menu. Whether it is a few growing pains or just a bit of confusion in my understanding of the preparation, at the end I was left feeling a bit like the guy sitting beside me.
I consider it another sign of synchronicity when I had a chance meeting with Top Chef competitor Jonathan Korecki on a random Ottawa street mere minutes before I went to his restaurant, Sidedoor. After convincing myself (and him) that I wasn’t a stalker, I took the opportunity to ask him the one thing on the menu I should try. His priceless answer was “One thing?” Good point.
When I arrived, no fewer than 4 employees greeted me and I was seated quickly and Cameron took over for the rest of the night. He reaffirmed my theory that in Ottawa, the service often matches the food. He spent at least 2 minutes explaining the ins and outs of the asian-influenced menu, notably the fact that in each section the dishes go from lightest to heaviest.
There is a good selection of cocktails and draught beer. I opted for the bourbon-based SIDEDOOR cocktail which was crisp and satisfying.
Must
On Jonathan’s recommendation, I ordered the tuna sashimi which was one of the best dishes I’ve had in a while. The tuna was sliced thin and presented beautifully. The fragrant yuzu marmalade was delicate with a complexity which smacked my taste buds in all kinds of directions. I was tempted to lick the plate when the tuna was gone.
Tuna Sashimi with Yuzu Marmalade
In a previous blog, I questioned hawker bar’s son-in-law eggs, particularly the prik nam pla sauce. Sidedoor’s version (another suggestion from Jonathan) blew my mind. Tearing into the soft yolk and watching it saturate the surrounding rice and salad made me feel like a MasterChef judge. The taste matched the visual appeal and the sauce was not overpowering.
Son-in-law eggs
I love pickles and I’m known to ask for a sample whenever they are homemade. I noticed a mention on the menu so I pitched the idea at Cameron. Instead of a small ramekin filled with 2 or 3 gherkins, he returned with a plate of pickled vegetables that surpassed all expectations. It contained pickled beets, jalapenos, carrots, daikon radish, Jerusalem artichoke, melon rind and sea asparagus adorned with mustard seed pickled in a bread and butter style .
Pickle Variety
Jonathan’s third suggestion was the donuts. In this case, who can turn down the chef’s creation, a peanut butter stuffed donut topped with a cocoa glaze and banana. Better yet, they were served warm. All I can say is…they taste how they look although a tad bit more filling would of been even better.
Chef’s Feature Donuts
Maybe
I tried the spicy beef and Bajan crispy fish tacos. They are a bit small for $9 but the shells were delicate and tasty. The spicy beef was hardly spicy but a bit of the homemade chili oil at the table helped. The Bajan tacos had a bit too much of the sauce which drown out the taste and texture of the fish a bit. I agree with their slogan, “Make Tacos, Not War” but can’t quite get to the state of “Make Tacos and then Make Love”.
Spicy Beef and Bajan Fish Tacos
Mundane
I was looking forward to the “Peking style” chicken but I was a bit disappointed. Big in size but modest in flavour, the texture and interior pinkish colour almost made it look underdone. I found the surrounding broth a bit curious. The fish sauce was overwhelming which I didn’t think complemented the rest of the dish.
Peking Style Chicken
My Take
I wouldn’t hesitate to sneak in the sidedoor again. Bold flavours seem to lace every dish and there is enough diversity to visit a few times and get a very different experience. The tuna sashimi is a must and I can’t speak highly enough of the service. The staff is energetic, knowledgable and not phased by a large table of what seemed like the offspring of the “Real Housewives of Ottawa” partying it up a few tables down.
I was once told I should always listen to my mother and not talk to strangers. Based on this meal, I’ve learned I should always listen to chefs as well, even if I don’t know them.
I was immediately reminded why I love Ottawa restaurants. No reservation, no room, no problem. The host quickly thought on his feet and offered me the end of a communal table providing I was done an hour later (a further amendment later allowed me to stay longer). A similar situation in Toronto might have left me walking out with my head down and seeking refuge at a hot dog cart close by.
Union 613 is located downtown away from the buzz of Byward market. The decor has a hip union hall feel, with lamp fixtures made of black pipe and wine bottles. The menu is what I would call “delicate southern food”, attempting to mimic flavours without the brawn of piles of chin dripping oversauced pulled pork or brisket sandwiches. George was an excellent waiter who provided prompt service, honest answers and a laugh or two. Oh ya..and boiled peanuts.
Other highlights include a small but current list of draught beer and a cocktail list which changes on a weekly basis.
Must
The fried okra with buttermilk dip was a perfect start. The okra was fresh and crispy, a stark difference from the normal sogginess of most fried green veggies. The batter was equally crispy and not greasy to the touch. Probably most interesting was the thin buttermilk dip. Finally, an understanding that the fact that dip is meant to enhance the taste of food, not mask it.
Fried Okra with Buttermilk Dip
I love the concept of the Berkshire swine. Deviating from the temptation to offer only pork shoulder in the form of tangy, slow cooked pulled pork, various cuts and preparations are offered, respecting other parts of the animal while still maintaining southern cooking styles and flavours. This night offered a nice sized pork belly served with a tart squash slaw. The pork was crisp yet tender and the slaw and fried sage were wonderful compliments.
Berkshire Swine-Pork Belly with Squash Slaw
As far as sides go, the cheddar and roasted garlic grits were as good as it gets. A spin on the traditional mac and cheese served at most southern restaurants, each bite brought a rich flavour and a contrast of smooth and chunky textures. The garlic taste was subtle and balanced.
Cheddar and Roasted Garlic Grits
Maybe
The brisket was slow cooked and very tender. The chipotle/coffee sauce maybe not be for everybody and I found it a tad overpowering, taking away from the beefy taste I have come to expect from brisket. The salsa verde was a great touch and tamed the taste of the sauce a bit. Please forgive the picture…I had a faulty camera.
Bad picture of Chipotle Coffee Brisket with Salsa Verde
The lemon lime cheesecake parfait may have a polar following. After a meal of intense flavours, some people want to finish with a jolt of something sweet. This is not it. Instead, this is a large dessert characterized by a rich cheese flavour and heat from the cayenne coating the corn nut crumble. I found it quite delicious but not entirely what I expected.
Lemon Lime Cheesecake Parfait
Mundane
When I eat an oyster, I’m looking for some acid, heat and/or salt. Despite the tobiko, there wasn’t enough of any these complementary flavours so the oysters were bland.
Lucky Lime Oysters
My Take
Union 613 provides good food with top-notch service. The menu as a whole pays respect to the foundations of southern fare but introduces innovative twists from appetizers to desserts. I would gladly return to try other dishes such as the crawfish boil or buttermilk chicken while at the same time anticipating new drinks, sides and of course fulfilling my curiosity about the Berkshire swine special, a curiosity only overshadowed by what’s really in the foot long I would be forced to eat when turned away in Toronto.
“Organic food” is a term that has always made me scratch my head a little. The definition of organic, based on dicitionary.com is as follows:
adjective
1.
noting or pertaining to a class of chemical compounds that formerly comprised only those existing in or derived from plants or animals, but that now includes all other compounds of carbon.
So, based on the definition, everything you eat is organic unless you swallow pennies or eat paper clips. However, the term organic has evolved to define the pinnacle of food, both in price and shelf space in a grocery store. Some advocates for organic food have compared consumption of organic foods vs “conventional” food to that of breast vs bottle feeding in newborns. The same people will insist you haven’t lived until you’ve had an “organism*” eating unsprayed papaya.
The breaking news yesterday was the study out of Stanford comparing organic and conventional food in terms of nutritional value, pesticide content and risk of bacterial infection. The shocking report confirmed what I assume most people know already. There is no difference in the nutritional value of the food and there are more pesticides on the foods where pesticides were used. Both groups were below the accepted level dictated by local regulatory bodies. A small side note was the higher risk of bacteria resistant to three or more antibiotics in conventional versus organic food.
Simply stated, a strawberry is a strawberry whether organic or conventional. The difference is one has pesticides on it. That’s about it. It may bring down the organic pundits a bit but the controversy surrounding the acceptable level of pesticides in foods was not addressed in this study which allows that camp to plant a very organic seed of doubt.
I’m not against organic food or organic food producers but I am against those who scold value conscious people and parents for not spending premium dollars to fill their families’ bellies with only the best, most nutritious food. Another fact is that organic eating doesn’t necessarily mean healthy eating. The body doesn’t differentiate between high caloric baked goods made with organic flour and butter and those which are not. Too many organic calories will bulk the waist the same as consumption of conventional foods.
It’s also important to keep in mind that an organic banana may still travel the same distance as the conventional banana and leave the same carbon footprint. I know…let’s call one the organic footprint and the other a conventional carbon footprint. Now I feel better.
Many restaurants are selling the farm to table concept and rightfully so. It’s more about local and less about organic. Local produce is abundant and in season right now. In many cases, it has traveled less than 100 km to get the store or market. It is full of colour and flavour. Let’s just wash and prepare it properly and I think we’ll all be good whether it’s organic or not.
*-organism is a feeling close to sexual fulfillment brought on only by consumption of organic foodstuffs.
Fare..Eat..Ales 