Ottawa Reviews – Fare..Eat..Ales

Salt Mining in Two Canadian Cities:So Diem be Carped

December 30, 2016December 30, 2016 spennyrdLeave a comment

With the exponential increase in eateries across the country, it’s not surprising that many have similar names. For example, whether you go to St. Thomas or Toronto you are sure to come across Harry’s Grill or something describing a view of a lake, a river of some other body of water. So it’s not surprising that Salt, one of the world’s most popular and coveting seasonings (and its misuse is the reason 80 percent of people are kicked off Top Chef), has resulted in namesake restaurants in cities such as Vancouver, Toronto and Ottawa. In the last couple of months, I have visited the latter two establishments. Despite the similar names, they are markedly different. Toronto’s Salt features taps from the Iberian peninsula. Salt Dining and Lounge in Ottawa, on the other hand, is a little more Canadiana, with a strong focus on music, wine and steak. In particular, they boast a steady stream of Waygu A5 100 day steaks for up to a cool $150 for an 8 oz strip.

Over the past number of months, I managed to hit both locations during my travels. With a steady flow of Portuguese Qunita Das Maias white wine in the background (which was a significant upgrade from the Mateus I used to sneak sips of from my mother’s single bottle wine cellar on the top shelf of the fridge), we feasted on an array of small plates. The jamon serrano ($12) and 5 cheese tray ($28) was a safe start. The cheese was an array of manchego among others. This was followed up with my absolute go to when it comes to anything tapas…patatas bravas. Their rendition was reminiscent of my time in Barcelona..simple but delicious. Not surprisingly, most of the remainder of the meal was seafood heavy including a delicious sea bream ceviche (freshened with cucumber, avocado and pineapple) ($14), crab cakes with avocado and piri piri aoili ($17), prawns with a corn salsa ($15) and grilled octopus with fingerling potatoes and romesco sauce ($18). The transition to land was facilitated by a unique surf and turf starring lobster and pork belly. Although it was good, I was really excited and was a little let down. The transition to land was completed with meatballs and BBQ ribs both of which were decent.

Jamon Serrano $12

Patatas Bravas $9

Crab Cakes $17

Meatballs $14

Lobster and Belly $19

Octopus $18

Ribs $17

5 Cheeses $28

Sea Bream Ceviche $14

Prawns $15

Ottawa’s Salt, on the other hand, was quite a bit different. Instead of rustic and woody, this Salt was roomy and elegant and adorned with large marble tables. In fact, the table we were seated at was quite large and almost made for difficult conversation. For the appetizers, the favorites were the tomato tartare ($15) and root vegetable salad $14). They were polar opposites; the tartare was fresh and elegant and the salad was sweet and earthy. Both were delicious. I’m a scientist by nature and I was intrigued to compare (in a non-blinded way unfortunately) a $39 filet with a $125 waygu strip.I also had 4 other dinner guests to help me. The waygu was beyond rich and the one or so ounce I had was more than enough. Most of the table agreed and in the end, although the waygu was quite satisfying, most agreed they would be happy with a filet at a third of the price. I was also intrigued by the chicken and pork belly served with rice. I normally steer clear of rice heavy dishes but I was promised that this rice was of incredible quality and actually worth more than the proteins. In the end, it was still rice and there was a lot of it.

Tomato Tartare $15

Root Vegetable Salad $14

Chicken and Belly $28

Waygu Beef Closeup

Filet $39 plus side

For dessert, we stuck with savory and ordered a busy cheese tray served with compotes, fruit and pickled veg. It was a little odd for a dessert course…I would have thought that an omission of pickled onions would have prudent post meal but it was easy enough, although wasteful to leave them there.

My Take

As mentioned, Salt Toronto vs Salt Ottawa are two different experiences. Salt Toronto has managed to stay alive in the turnstile that is Ossington Avenue for well over half a decade. Salt Ottawa, on the other hand, is still in it’s infancy with a birth along Preston Street in 2014. Toronto will offer you a pseudo-Iberian experience complete with traditional tapas dished modernized from both a taste and visual perspective. Ottawa, on the other hand, is more a regal destination complete with large, spacious tables and hunks of steak including the pricey and legendary waygu from Japan. Both destinations might run you a pretty penny (remember salt was as valuable as gold at one point in history) depending on your affinity for alcohol and whether past encounters with Mateus haven’t permanently scarred you into indulging on Portuguese wine. The need to do behavioral science experiments based on a $125 steak may play a role as well.

I suppose having numerous restaurants named salt across the company is in line with the ubiquitous use of sodium in the same establishments. Although far from a franchise, I am compelled to seek other eateries with NaCl nomenclature for at minimum a covalent comparison.

I Had DINR with the Prime Minister in the North and with the Navy…Sort of.

November 26, 2016November 27, 2016 spennyrdLeave a comment

I’m oblivious sometimes. Sure, I can navigate through a number of websites searching so what’s hot in the restaurant world but I often miss things right in front of my face. I was in Ottawa for a conference recently and needed a quick spot for dinner. As part of my search, I stumbled across DINR, a rather new app which revolves around last minute reservations at some of the most coveted restaurants in the country. Luckily, Ottawa is one of the featured cities so I managed to secure the chef’s table at North and Navy with a few hours notice. North and Navy is a relatively new restaurant which moved into the space left when Beckta switched locations. The concept plays on what the owners call similarities between the climates of Northern Italy and Eastern Ontario with a focus on local ingredients.

I was staying at a hotel down the road so it was nice walk to the Nepean street location. I noticed that the air was crisp indicating that fall was here. What I didn’t notice was that there were a number of black sedans outside the restaurant. We were quickly seated at the rail and waited for our last guest who arrived and immediately commented on the motorcade parked outside. I laughed and offered to look around the restaurant on the way to the washroom in case the beloved Justin Trudeau may be in the house. On the way back I made eye contact (well..maybe one way eye contact) which somebody who faintly resembled Sophie who was sitting with a man with flowing Pantene locks. I didn’t dare stop or make eye contact to confirm given I’m not sure of the Canadian rules around approaching a head of state in a dining establishment (although a shirtless selfie may have been in the cards), so I went back to my seat and mentioned I thought it was him. Another member of our party got up, walked past the table, did a 360 and quickly returned to confirm the sighting.

We were greeted by a pleasant employee who went through the description of the menu using the airplane safety speech that has become the norm for any shared plate eatery currently in existence. We were encouraged to try the cicheti (ie. Italian snack plate) which featured grissini, marinated anchovy, oyster, mackerel and a homemade meatball.It was served on a silver platter worthy of let’s say….a prime minister. We collectively destroyed the plate’s contents with good reviews.

north-cichetti — Cicheti $2-4 plus funky socks and crocs in lieu of a Prime Ministerial selfie

There were four primi pasta courses on the menu and we ordered them all. The potato tortaletti with matching brodo was pleasantly plated with some pickled onions. The tender and unique pasta was spot on but the delicate but precisely seasoned broth stole the show. A bit more along the traditional path of Northern Italy, the bigoli con le vongole was another hit in its simplicity. Great pasta, great sauce and great seafood. I’m typically not a risotto fan but I thoroughly enjoyed the pancetta and corn offering. It provided cream corn comfort sprinkled with salty pieces of pancetta. The mint parpadelle with abundant mushrooms was an incredible concoction of earthy flavours. The mint leaves offered a unorthadox yet pleasant freshness. In the end, each primi choice offered textures and tastes that ranged from Harper conservative to flowing lock liberal.

Bigoli con le Vongole $15

Mint Parpadelle with le Coprin mushrooms $14

Potato Tortaletti with Potato Brodo $14

Corn and Pancetta Risotto $14

As an intermezzo, we went for the raw zucchini with olives, mint and pecorino plus cured eggplant with house yoghurt. I love chef’s tables, especially when dishes involve meticulous construction. Both this dishes were assembled with a pinpoint precision which made then as appealing to the eye as to the tongue. The zucchini cleansed the aftermath of the previous dishes while the eggplant foreshadowed what was to come.

Raw Zucchini with Olives, Mint and Pecorino $14

Cured Eggplant and House Yoghurt $12

Given the sizable amount of food we had already consumed, we decided on two of the available entrees; the trout with brussel sprouts and parsnip and the Quebec duck with fennel and pear. The fish was brilliant. Maybe it was my bias given the fact that I’m tired of every fish dish in a restaurant currently being served with some kind of tomato. Instead, crunchy sprouts and a rich and pleasantly pungent parsnip puree were the perfect compliment to the pristine pesce. The red cabbage and the pickled squash (which was addictive by itself) added colour and another dimension to the dish. Duck, especially Quebec canard, seems to be a staple in Ottawa and North and Navy was no exception. There is an emerging trend coupling fresh fruit with protein and in this case, it was sliced pear. It wasn’t my favorite dish of the night but still hit decent flavour and textural notes.

Quebec Duck with Fennel and Pear $30

Steelhead Trout with Brussel Sprouts and Parsnip (and pickled squash ($32)

Since we were sitting at the chef’s table, we were able to get some great reflections and insights from the kitchen. Adam Vettorel, North and Navy’s head chef, stopped his meticulous plating to chat for a bit. He had a confident yet awkward personality which is seemingly quite characteristic among those with the role of chief cook. We were treated to a story about a recent competition in which he opted for successfully pickling of squash instead of cooking it, a tactic which was transferred with some regularity to his menu soon after.

Dessert was classic Italian which nicely reflected the general theme of North and Navy; traditional tiramisu and playful panna cotta. Like the rest of the meal, the fundamental execution was brilliant and combined old and new world ingredients and flavours.

Peach Panna Cotta

Tiramisu

My Take

Although I doubt Mr. Trudeau used nor needed the DINR app, it is a great tool for an unorganized, indecisive and whimsical food fan. I would personally argue that a culinary celebrity sighting if usually more exciting than a political one but dining with the prime minister (sort of) makes for a good story, especially when chatting with friends and colleagues who figurative bleed red or appreciate good hair. That said, North and Navy made its food, especially the pasta, worth throwing into the discussion as well. Adam Vettorel et al., unlike his famous guest,can effectively execute a plan. North and Navy’s campaign promised Northern Italy with local influence and they delivered. In the end, they get my vote even if I’m not a card carrying Liberal.

Whalesbone: Kramer’s Conundrum, Pickerel vs Walleye and is Kenny Rogers Malaysia’s David Hasselhoff?

December 26, 2014December 27, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

Growing up I was very familiar with Kenny Rogers. Not only did my grandparents have it in the rotation on the 8 track in between ABBA and Neil Diamond, but mom was a rather obsessive fan. I remember her travelling down to Toronto to see him in concert and returning with a huge, glossy souvenir book which sat in a rack for months afterwards. His gleaming face on the front cover would greet me at the front door every time I got home from school. I knew all about Ruby, Lucille and Reuben James. I knew that somebody believed in Kenny and that the Gambler could not possibly outrun the long arm of the law.

Kenny’s legacy continued when I moved to London. There was a Kenny Rogers’ Roaster’s a few blocks from my house. I went once but was more impressed with Canadian chicken juggernaut Swiss Chalet which was located a block closer. The chain’s popularity likely hit it’s peak in the mid-nineties after an episode of Seinfeld in which Kramer reluctantly falls in love with the chicken despite the fact its annoying red neon sign lights up his apartment. Despite the publicity, the company eventually declared Chapter 11 and is now owned and operated out of Malaysia with franchises scattered throughout China, the Philippines and Cambodia. Maybe Kenny is to Malaysia what Hasselhoff is to Germany.

Kramer in the Kenny Rogers' Glow — Kramer in the Kenny Rogers’ Glow

During a recent trip to Ottawa, I was craving seafood more than I was chicken, so I decided to grab dinner at Whalesbone. The oyster house has become a staple among many Ottawa foodies and is known for its innovative menus and bar side turntable which bellows the output of spinning vinyl throughout its tiny confines. I arrived in time to grab a bar seat before the place got too full. I sat down and had flashbacks when I saw Kenny’s bearded mug staring at me from behind the bar while his voice serenaded me with the suggestion that I decorated his life.

I was greeted by a pleasant barkeep who quickly sliced some bread (served with a delicious maple butter), passed me the daily menu and eagerly explained the daily catch of oysters in great detail. Finding it difficult to decide, I opted for one of each of the mollusks from the likes of Colville Bay PEI, Foxley River PEI, Eel Lake NS and Simon NB and Deep Bay BC. Equivalent to the variety of oysters was the carousel of condiments that came with it which included the standard horseradish, lemon and Tabasco in addition to the housemade seafood,hot sauce and mignonette and even a shaker of blended scotch. The variety of both the oysters themselves and the additions made for a very enjoyable start to the evening.

All of the half dozen starters looked incredible but I settled for the scallop ceviche ($20) which was served with grapefruit, red onion, jalapeno, crisps, cilantro and fraiche. It was presently beautifully and had a crispy acidity which nicely coddled the tender scallop. I was hoping for a little more heat from the jalapeno. The radish, which wasn’t listed on the ingredients, was a bit like an uninvited guest whose powerful presence was a little too dominating in the midst of the others party goers.

For the entree, I was fascinated by the walleye and clam combination flavoured with bacon, beans, radish, potatoes and herbs ($30). As a side note, some of us get rather annoyed by the use of the word walleye instead of the much more Canadian pickerel but I suppose I should pick my battles. Once again, the dish was picturesque. The pickerel fillet was nicely browned and served atop a fragrant broth which housed the remaining ingredients. This time the radish was a welcome guest, adding some crunchy bite to the dish.

For dessert, the banana cream pie ($11) was calling my name. It was served in a mason jar and served sprinkled with a graham crust. Those who are not extremists may be a bit turned off since it was heavy on the sweet side but despite this, I enjoyed the taste and texture, highlighted by fresh cream and chunks of ripe banana.

My Take

From start to finish, I enjoyed the Whalesbone experience. Whether it was the fresh bread, the array of available oysters, great service or the other innovative dishes, it had all the components of a great but expensive meal. Each offering was well thought out and attractively presented with an array of textures and flavours by pleasant and knowledgeable waitstaff.

I rarely tweet while at a restaurant but the combination of the oysters and Kenny’s crooning put me in the mood to proclaim my sultry experience to the world. My message was quickly retweeted by somebody at the restaurant and one clever follower asked me if I counted my oysters when I was sitting at the table; I said there’d be time enough for counting when the eatin’s done.

Hintonburger: Better than Dirty Bird, Grown Ups 2 and Donnie’s Thespianism

April 7, 2014April 8, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

Sometimes naming a restaurant takes days or weeks of careful deliberation. Sometimes a name is just obvious. I mean, if you want to open a burger place in the Ottawa neighbourhood of Hintonburg, you really only have one choice; Hintonburger. Now this makes me wonder what other burgers concepts would have obvious names:

1. Spielburgers- Splashy burgers with great stories and specials effects including the Jaws, Ketchup Me if you Can, the Hamistad and the Empire of the Bun.

2. Samburgers- Featuring the Cloudy with a Chance of Meatball Sub and the Brooklyn Nine-Nine (the traditional burger for under $10). Noticeable absence of any reference on the menu to “That’s my Boy” or “Grown-ups 2”.

3. Wahlburgers- The Wahlburg brothers make even more money by creating a Boston burger empire complete with a reality show featuring Mark’s abs and Donnie’s…..intellect (complete with that pensive look he gets when he’s trying to crack a case on Blue Bloods). Oh wait, that’s been done already.

Hintonburger is housed in an old Kentucky Fried Chicken (in the days before it was shortened to KFC, the Colonel was not a cartoon character and Taco Bell was nowhere in sight). I opened the gold coloured door with the faded handle and entered the small quarters, noticing the only relic of KFC was a crudely painted picture of a red and white bucket sunk halfway in the ground on the far wall. I walked straight ahead to the tiny square hallow which served as the order window. It only made sense to order the Hintonburger combo, complete with fries and a drink for $11.75. The signature burger is 6 oz of meat served with bacon, cheese and signature BBQ sauce and was served with fresh cut fries.

It was pretty busy but we managed to get a seat while we waited the 15 minutes for the food to arrive. In the meantime, I couldn’t help but people watch. The place contained everything from a group of hipsters (what are they called anyway? A herd? hover? A host? A harrass? A hedge? A horde?)*. There was also an old couple that I thought I saw on a grey power commercial once and a table of four guys on lunch break who wore matching uniforms with the reflective outdoor jackets and whose combined weight was slightly more than a Fiat 500.

*- The group terms refer to antelopes/bison, trout, sparrows, horses, herons and gnats respectively. A horde of hipsters…I kinda like that.

The burger arrived in the standard red and white checkered paper. The bacon was abundant, the cheese was melted and the burger was a nice, consistent thickness. It was a wonderful crust which not only flavoured the patty but protected the moisture of the inside. The BBQ sauce was tasty and not overbearing, a cardinal sin of many burgers. The bun had a hard time keeping this messy concoction together. I enjoyed the fries. They were thick and crunchy although a few were a little overdone.

Hintonburger Combo (water not shown) $11.75

My Take

Hintonburger has all the hallmarks of a modern burger bar; cramped quarters, a wait time indicative of a made-to-order burger, a rainbow of patrons and tasty fresh cut fries. It also adds a number of other menu items for non-burger aficionados including pogos, chicken strips, hot dogs and even a couple of vegetarian items. In the end, it’s middle of the pack (or kettle or troubling or parliament) in both taste, price and value which still means it’s pretty good. It sure as hell beats a brood of dirty bird from Scott’s Chicken Villa.

Suzie Q, Baby I Love You

April 6, 2014April 6, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

“Suzie Q”

Oh, Susie Q, Oh, Susie Q
Oh, Susie Q, Baby I love you, Susie Q
You are well worth the walk,
You deserve all the talk

You are well worth the walk, you deserve all the talk, Susie Q

Well, say that icing is blue

well, say that icing is blue,
Well, say that you use fruit loops and icing that’s blue, Susie Q

Well, say that’s tart kaffir lime,
well, say that’s tart kaffir lime,
Well, say that’s coconut, served with tart kaffir lime, Susie Q

Oh Susie Q, Oh Susie Q
Oh Susie Q, Baby I love you, Susie QI like all your donuts in stock
And that you’re open until 7 o’clock
You give Tim Horton’s a knock , your specials are written in chalk, Susie Q.O Susie Q, Oh susie Q
Oh Susie Q, Baby I love you, Susie Q

My Take

Many new doughnut shops have opened in an effort to have people pay two or three times as much for one as they would at Timmy’s or some other generic bakeshop. In many cases, they fall flat…literally. They are often dense, cakey, sickly-sweet and offer little taste benefit over their cheaper competitors. In other words, sprinkling a bit of balsamic on a half-ass doughnut doesn’t make it worth three bucks.

Suzie Q reintroduces the lost art of the yeast doughnut (not donut) back into fashion. They are light, doughy, nicely leavened and not overly sweet. In fact, you can taste the yeast in the dough. As far as designer doughnuts go, they are well worth the $2/each or the $10/6 price tag.

Blue Vanilla Froot Loop and Coconut with Kaffir Lime $2/each — Coconut with Kaffir Lime Blue Vanilla Froot Loop $2/each

Yes, Suzie Q, I love you!

Two Six {Ate}! Who do we appreciate?: Gaining Respect in Little Italy

April 6, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

I took another trip to Ottawa recently. It’s becoming progressively more difficult to choose places to dine given the huge explosion of interesting destinations all over the city. Take two six {ate} in Little Italy for example. It has all the foundations of a foodie haven:

1. It’s named after its address.

2. They use cliche words like “nose-to-tail” and “snack foods made with local, fresh sustainable products” on their about us page.

3. They are closed Tuesdays.

4. Decor includes a stash house rusticness and clever, tongue and cheek depictions of Darth Vader, Uncle Sam, Mickey Mouse and Beethoven.

5. Uses small letters and punctuation in name {in this case brackets I forget the significance of}.

That said, Ottawa waitstaff and barkeeps rarely adhere to the Toronto rule that you have to be a pompous ass since you know how to measure an ounce and a half of bourbon using a shot glass. Maybe it’s the fact that any restaurant in Little Italy adheres to some kind of Godfather or Sopranos code of respect. I was immediately greeted by a pleasant duo who sat me at the bar. I was given a quick description of the menus which includes a daily sandwich and pasta special. In this case it was beef tongue and goose confit ravioli respectively.

I went on the heels of FreBREWary, an exciting promotion by Beau’s in Ottawa which involves the near weekly release of of an innovative beer surrounded with exciting hoopla. Since two six {ate} was a participant, I was looking forward to a pint of Wag the Wolf, a heavily hopped wheat beer which was due to be released that day. It was a tad delayed, so I was treated to an Beau’s Ellsmere’s Regret instead. It was an absolutely delicious chocolate-marshmallow hemp stout. It was served on a warped Beau’s promotional wooden coaster {a FeBREWary promotional flaw which was the result of not letting the wood dry before final production}.

I started with an order of the shrimp and pork pogos {$10} which sound more Asian/American than something from the 1Italian Motherland. Served on a bed of crisp and delicious slaw with the faint heat of a chili gastrique, I can best describe them as deep fried Dim Sum. They were nicely seasoned and the flavours of the filling burst in my mouth. I’m not convinced the batter enhanced the taste of the dish {not to mention the fact the batter pretty much seperated from the filling at the first bite} but it certainly was a merry concept.

The scallops {$16} were highly recommended by the waitstaff. I didn’t need much convincing when I read the description. I think brussel sprouts and seafood are terrific partners on a plate. Sweet/sulphur, soft/crispy and white/green coexist quite nicely. I also love the thought of boozy raisins sprinkled all over a nicely cooked scallop. The dish was true to from. The aforementioned ingredients combined with silky sunchoke puree and crunchy pumpkin seeds mapped my taste buds tongue-tickling topography.

The pasta special of the evening was interesting. I have to admit I have limited experience with goose. I’ve eaten a flock of ducks but not their larger cousin so much. The fact that it was stuffed in ravioli and topped with yellowfoot and hedgehog mushrooms sounded even better. The goose filling was very gamy which was was oddly coupled with by the strong earthiness of the mushroom medley. The pasta was a little thick. I think a blast of sweet or acid {other than the spray of pomegranate seeds I seem to remember} might have helped. In the end, it was a pleasant dish.

During the meal I also had a Broadhead Wild Card, a subtle pale ale from Ottawa and another example that the craft beer movement is alive and well in Eastern Ontario. It was very well balanced with a subtle but cogent hoppy blast.

For dessert I seemed to have no choice. As far as hype, online comments have elevated the fried p b and j {$9} to the status of Pulp Fiction or Breaking Bad. The question was whether it was worth it. It took two hands to lift each half given the incredible density. It had a soft, creamy centre and a crispy crust on the outside. It was not overly sweet, even with the aggressive dusting of powered sugar and sweet ice cream next door. It was more like a good brunch item rather than a dessert. In fact, I took half home for breakfast the next day.

My Take

Most Ottawa residents are blissful over the recent emergence of high quality and trendy restaurants congruent to those in nearby Toronto and Montreal. Two six {ate} is one of these. It has many of the fundamental features of a hipster haven {see above} with the additional of friendly, authentic service. The food is solid although the presentation is a bit monotonous. Two six {ate} has a code. You leave feeling like a dinner guest of Tony Soprano or Vito Corleone. In fact, Tony may have stated it best when he said …{“Those who want respect, give respect”.} The food is respected. The drink is respected. You are respected.

Review: Ottawa: Sidedoor

September 17, 2012September 22, 2012 spennyrd1 Comment

I consider it another sign of synchronicity when I had a chance meeting with Top Chef competitor Jonathan Korecki on a random Ottawa street mere minutes before I went to his restaurant, Sidedoor. After convincing myself (and him) that I wasn’t a stalker, I took the opportunity to ask him the one thing on the menu I should try. His priceless answer was “One thing?” Good point.

When I arrived, no fewer than 4 employees greeted me and I was seated quickly and Cameron took over for the rest of the night. He reaffirmed my theory that in Ottawa, the service often matches the food. He spent at least 2 minutes explaining the ins and outs of the asian-influenced menu, notably the fact that in each section the dishes go from lightest to heaviest.

There is a good selection of cocktails and draught beer. I opted for the bourbon-based SIDEDOOR cocktail which was crisp and satisfying.

Must

On Jonathan’s recommendation, I ordered the tuna sashimi which was one of the best dishes I’ve had in a while. The tuna was sliced thin and presented beautifully. The fragrant yuzu marmalade was delicate with a complexity which smacked my taste buds in all kinds of directions. I was tempted to lick the plate when the tuna was gone.

sidedoor sashimi — Tuna Sashimi with Yuzu Marmalade

In a previous blog, I questioned hawker bar’s son-in-law eggs, particularly the prik nam pla sauce. Sidedoor’s version (another suggestion from Jonathan) blew my mind. Tearing into the soft yolk and watching it saturate the surrounding rice and salad made me feel like a MasterChef judge. The taste matched the visual appeal and the sauce was not overpowering.

I love pickles and I’m known to ask for a sample whenever they are homemade. I noticed a mention on the menu so I pitched the idea at Cameron. Instead of a small ramekin filled with 2 or 3 gherkins, he returned with a plate of pickled vegetables that surpassed all expectations. It contained pickled beets, jalapenos, carrots, daikon radish, Jerusalem artichoke, melon rind and sea asparagus adorned with mustard seed pickled in a bread and butter style .

Jonathan’s third suggestion was the donuts. In this case, who can turn down the chef’s creation, a peanut butter stuffed donut topped with a cocoa glaze and banana. Better yet, they were served warm. All I can say is…they taste how they look although a tad bit more filling would of been even better.

Maybe

I tried the spicy beef and Bajan crispy fish tacos. They are a bit small for $9 but the shells were delicate and tasty. The spicy beef was hardly spicy but a bit of the homemade chili oil at the table helped. The Bajan tacos had a bit too much of the sauce which drown out the taste and texture of the fish a bit. I agree with their slogan, “Make Tacos, Not War” but can’t quite get to the state of “Make Tacos and then Make Love”.

sidedoor tacos — Spicy Beef and Bajan Fish Tacos

Mundane

I was looking forward to the “Peking style” chicken but I was a bit disappointed. Big in size but modest in flavour, the texture and interior pinkish colour almost made it look underdone. I found the surrounding broth a bit curious. The fish sauce was overwhelming which I didn’t think complemented the rest of the dish.

My Take

I wouldn’t hesitate to sneak in the sidedoor again. Bold flavours seem to lace every dish and there is enough diversity to visit a few times and get a very different experience. The tuna sashimi is a must and I can’t speak highly enough of the service. The staff is energetic, knowledgable and not phased by a large table of what seemed like the offspring of the “Real Housewives of Ottawa” partying it up a few tables down.

I was once told I should always listen to my mother and not talk to strangers. Based on this meal, I’ve learned I should always listen to chefs as well, even if I don’t know them.

Review: Ottawa: Union 613

September 15, 2012September 15, 2012 spennyrd1 Comment

I was immediately reminded why I love Ottawa restaurants. No reservation, no room, no problem. The host quickly thought on his feet and offered me the end of a communal table providing I was done an hour later (a further amendment later allowed me to stay longer). A similar situation in Toronto might have left me walking out with my head down and seeking refuge at a hot dog cart close by.

Union 613 is located downtown away from the buzz of Byward market. The decor has a hip union hall feel, with lamp fixtures made of black pipe and wine bottles. The menu is what I would call “delicate southern food”, attempting to mimic flavours without the brawn of piles of chin dripping oversauced pulled pork or brisket sandwiches. George was an excellent waiter who provided prompt service, honest answers and a laugh or two. Oh ya..and boiled peanuts.

Other highlights include a small but current list of draught beer and a cocktail list which changes on a weekly basis.

Must

The fried okra with buttermilk dip was a perfect start. The okra was fresh and crispy, a stark difference from the normal sogginess of most fried green veggies. The batter was equally crispy and not greasy to the touch. Probably most interesting was the thin buttermilk dip. Finally, an understanding that the fact that dip is meant to enhance the taste of food, not mask it.

okra union — Fried Okra with Buttermilk Dip

I love the concept of the Berkshire swine. Deviating from the temptation to offer only pork shoulder in the form of tangy, slow cooked pulled pork, various cuts and preparations are offered, respecting other parts of the animal while still maintaining southern cooking styles and flavours. This night offered a nice sized pork belly served with a tart squash slaw. The pork was crisp yet tender and the slaw and fried sage were wonderful compliments.

union pork belly — Berkshire Swine-Pork Belly with Squash Slaw

As far as sides go, the cheddar and roasted garlic grits were as good as it gets. A spin on the traditional mac and cheese served at most southern restaurants, each bite brought a rich flavour and a contrast of smooth and chunky textures. The garlic taste was subtle and balanced.

union grits — Cheddar and Roasted Garlic Grits

Maybe

The brisket was slow cooked and very tender. The chipotle/coffee sauce maybe not be for everybody and I found it a tad overpowering, taking away from the beefy taste I have come to expect from brisket. The salsa verde was a great touch and tamed the taste of the sauce a bit. Please forgive the picture…I had a faulty camera.

union brisket — Bad picture of Chipotle Coffee Brisket with Salsa Verde

The lemon lime cheesecake parfait may have a polar following. After a meal of intense flavours, some people want to finish with a jolt of something sweet. This is not it. Instead, this is a large dessert characterized by a rich cheese flavour and heat from the cayenne coating the corn nut crumble. I found it quite delicious but not entirely what I expected.

lime parfait union — Lemon Lime Cheesecake Parfait

Mundane

When I eat an oyster, I’m looking for some acid, heat and/or salt. Despite the tobiko, there wasn’t enough of any these complementary flavours so the oysters were bland.

My Take

Union 613 provides good food with top-notch service. The menu as a whole pays respect to the foundations of southern fare but introduces innovative twists from appetizers to desserts. I would gladly return to try other dishes such as the crawfish boil or buttermilk chicken while at the same time anticipating new drinks, sides and of course fulfilling my curiosity about the Berkshire swine special, a curiosity only overshadowed by what’s really in the foot long I would be forced to eat when turned away in Toronto.