Toronto Reviews – Page 9 – Fare..Eat..Ales

East Thirty-Six: Breaking Down the Yonge Street Wall

April 19, 2014April 20, 2014 spennyrd2 Comments

A riddle…

Q. Why did the foodie cross the road?

A. He didn’t.

This is a dumb joke but one that reigns true when we speak of Canada’s longest street. Yonge street is a bit like the Berlin wall. On the west side a vibrant dining scene. Queen, King, College and Dundas are lined with dozens of hipster havens. The east side, however, consists of a bunch of restaurants compartmentalized into chains, fine dining and student friendly venues. It’s like there’s a force field of some kind which repels plastic-rimmed glasses. There are a few hipster oases in the otherwise barren east but for the most part there’s work to be done before the wall is torn down.

Wellington road east is proxy to a number of upscale condos which have tenants who prefer suits to plaid. It is also within walking distance of venues such as the Sony Centre for the Performing Arts. As a result, bahn mi sandwiches and pulled pork tacos aren’t an automatic go-to. Instead, restaurants in this area need to offer refined yet current fare or offer a unique enough concept whereas to not be a dreadful bore and keep people coming back. Places like Trevor Bar and Kitchen and C’est What have had longevity whereas Lucien and the Olde Towne Bistro and Oyster bar had shorter lives.

East Thirty-Six now occupies the old quarters of the above mentioned restaurants. It’s first plan of action was to name itself after its address, a witty move employed by numerous others recently. The second was to adopt a menu which focuses on innovative cocktails and small plates as opposed to the traditional three course meals the east side aristocrats are accustomed to. The focal point of the interior is a large bar which is stocked with a variety of alcohol (including house-made varieties) larger than Lindsay Lohan’s minibar. Otherwise, it is a classy and well designed east side bar and bistro.

In addition to a panoply of the most current wines (New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, German Rieslings etc.) Eat Thirty Six boasts an impressive cocktail list with emphasis on and fruit and fruit-infused liquors ranging from $12-14. I had read about the high touted E36 smoked Boulevardier, a spin on the classic yet rather unknown cocktail from the 20s. Called a cousin of the Negroni, E36’s version includes a bit of Lillet Blanc and some smoke tincture. The solution is allowed to conflate for a number of weeks to create an elixir which is as smooth as a gossamer. Frankly, it’s the best cocktail I’ve had this year. I’d equate to it any dish which is allowed to sit and marinate versus being callously put together and served immediately. There is no rawness or disjointed flavour..just a general smoothness enhanced with ethereal undertones.

E36Smoked Boulevardier $14 — E36 Smoked Boulevardier $14

To date, the menu has been classified as french tapas. I asked the owner about this and he said this wasn’t intentional. A small plate concept was definitely the intent, but the influence of chef Brent Maxwell resulted in a seeping of French influence into many of the dishes. Take, for example, the pork caillettes. E36’s version of these sausages are bite-size morsels stuffed with among other things pork and liver. Served like a hors d’oeuvre, each well seasoned bite was a pop of all things porcine. I also ordered some mixed pickles ($4) which made for a nice starter.

Pork Caillettes $9 (Note: Cameras don't work in the dark) — Pork Caillettes $9 (Note: Cameras don’t work in the dark)

The scallop crudo ($14) was little Italy meets Mexico. It takes the sweetness of scallop and the richness of lardo and dresses it with tequila and lime. The rather unorthodox addition of celery added a little texture and taste that worked. It didn’t present with the intensity of a ceviche but had enough of an acidity to cut through the lardo and provide a nice reprieve from some of the heavier items on the menu.

Speaking of heavy, we went to the bottom of the menu for our dishes. My colleague and I decided on the short rib ($21), duck confit ($19) and boudin blanc ($18). That said, all three dishes were delicious choices. I think I can summarize them with one word: balance. The short rib was nicely accompanied with brussel sprouts, parmesan grits and horseradish. The duck leg was rendered down nicely and served with egg, mushroom and semolina. If anything, I would have switched the starches because I think corn/duck and beef/wheat pair better together but that may be a bit of a moot point given both dishes were rather delicious. The boudin was an modish interpretation of the sausage in that it used elegant ingredients such fois gras and tarragon. The additional of the apple and cabbage didn’t make it any less pedestrian.

Boudin Blanc $18 — Boudin Blanc with cabbage and apple $18

For dessert I ordered the lemon custard with shortbread and macadamia ($8) while my colleague ordered another plate of caillettes. The custard was nice and tart and was served with an impressive number of (hopefully foraged nuts… AND it was served in a mason jar. Pure hipster bliss.

Lemon Custard $8 — Lemon Custard with M academia nuts $8

My Take

On the heels of the short lived Olde Towne Bistro and Oyster bar, E36 has moved into a tough spot with an attempt to fuse modern food and drink trends with the principles of upscale casual dining this area of town is accustomed to. It can best be described as small plate with french influence although there are a number of surprises on the menu. I wasn’t able to try the bone marrow (served with chicken liver pate), razor clams, sweetbreads or octopus nor one of the other 10 interesting cocktails, many of which frolic with fruit or tinker with tinctures. The decor is clean and modern with a beautiful well-stocked bar as its centrepiece. The service was great but it was a slow night so it would be interesting to see if the conversation and attention to detail continues with a busier assemblage.

East Thirty-Six has a name, a menu and a cocktail list that would appeal to any hipster. I mean, think about it. Pickled cauliflower in a mason jar? The dish alone contains three of the Huffington Post’s 22 essential hipster foods:

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/04/15/hipster-food_n_5146632.html?utm_hp_ref=fb&src=sp&comm_ref=false

So, does this mean we finally have a place that would allow the tearing down of the Yonge street wall, finally allowing the two sides to dine together in harmony while eating offal pork sausage and drinking bourbon concoctions? Probably not. After all, there’s no need to worsen the carbon footprint as long as there’s kimchi, kale and PBR on the west side I suppose.

The P & L Burger: Recognizing Big Boy as the Original Hipster

April 16, 2014April 18, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

Parts and Labour’s offspring, P &L burger, was in part due to its performance on Burger Wars, in which it beat out rivals Burger’s Priest and Dangerous Dan’s to claim supremacy. It opened its doors recently near Queen and Spadina, only a few doors down from Burger’s Priest and in an area with an ever increasing number of fast/snack food options. Upon entry, I was greeted by a young lady with modern enthusiasm who quickly took my order. Fifteen minutes later, almost to the second, my number was called and I proceeded to the counter. The cook was as cool as his facial hair and engaged me in a very pleasant conversation about the weather, cycling and growing up in Windsor, Ontario…a far cry from the less than enjoyable service I often receive from other places in the area.

Let’s do a quick historical recount of the evolution of the burger culture in the United States. It would be hard to argue that the Big Mac is not one of the most iconic and recognizable food on earth. In fact, economic models use the cost of a Big Mac to standardize the state of the economy across the globe. The brilliance of the Big Mac lies partially in the use of a secret sauce to add some tanginess to the other layers of flavours one would associate with a burger. The Big Mac was “invented” by a Pittsburgh franchisee in 1967 who developed it to compete with the Big Boy (developed circa 1937), the flagship burger of the restaurant of the same name. The Big Boy is a three layered burger, served on a sesame bun with all the fixings including a special sauce (sound familiar?). Once a presence throughout the United States, Big Boy still exists although primarily within the state lines of Michigan although a few still exist in Ohio and California.

What struck me the minute I tried the deluxe was the fact that I was eating a hipster Big Mac. It had most of the components with an extra emphasis on the the huge beef patty, which was cooked a juicy medium-well. The P&L sauce was an excellent condiment and resembled the special sauce that made the Big Mac famous. The cheese was melted nicely and crispy bacon pieces lined the thick patty. It was a big, sloppy and delicious mess. Consuming it did make me wonder why too many other burger places haven’t made an effort to mimic one of America’s favorite and most recognizable foodstuffs. As far as the sides, I found the fries rather soggy and the slaw unappealing in both colour and taste.

Somewhat Soggy Fries (plus $3 with drink)

My Take

Not only did Big Boy invent the saucy burger, I argue they invented the hipster. I mean, look at the mascot:

1. He wears checkered clothing.

2. He has a clean side part and a a flip in the front.

3. He is wearing light blue shoes.

4. He has that “I’m cool because I’m about to eat a burger” look on his face.

Now McDonald’s stole the Big Mac concept but alienated the hipster concept and instead introduced Ronald McDonald in 1963. The famous clown (which apparently has 96% recognition in the USA), was created by Willard Scott (yes…the same Willard Scott who gained fame as a Today show weatherman). Since then, there have been eight actors who have portrayed the famous clown and none of them have worn, plaid, plastic rimmed glasses or parted their hair to the side.

Willard Scott as the original Ronald McDonald- This would be enough to make me a vegetarian

P&L has created a DELICIOUS burger which competes for the best under $10 in Toronto. The sauce is the key, adding a tangy cut through the richness of the thick beef patty and accompanying melted Amercian cheese and bacon. The bun is terrific and the condiments are as harmonious as the Big Mac song itself. The fries were soggy and the slaw was unremarkable. You’re likely in for about a 15 minute wait but I think it’s worth it (after all some people in Toronto have no issue waiting hours for a stool tucked in the corner of a popular snack bar). Now that I’ve read a bit about burger history I realize that in fact the classic sandwich is the perfect food for the modern day hipster; you can dress like Big Boy and act like a clown.

Brekkie at Bar Buca: Beyond Bacon and Bad Brew

April 9, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

Bar Buca comes for a pedigree that has gained the attention of the likes of Jamie Oliver among others. So far, so good for the offspring. It has escaped the mercurial grasp of the Globe and Mail’s Chris Nuttall-Smith as well as gaining praise from seasoned critic Joanne Kates (who I’m convinced is Carmen Sandiego) who recently called it the best thing to open in a year.

In one sense it’s following the lead of the snack bar swing which has taken Toronto by storm. In another it ups the ante by offerings goods all day including a coffee and breakfast bar as early as 7 am. The quiet exterior on Portland hides a deceivingly large area with high ceilings, seating which includes wooden high tables, an open kitchen and a coffee/booze bar right inside the entrance. In the morning, each table is equipped with sugar as well as a sugar/espresso paste in a jar which offers an extra kick to the morning coffee. Speaking of which, there are couple of dozen espresso/latte combinations to choose from. After careful deliberation I opted for a Latte Canadese latte style ($5.50). The foundation was maple and brown butter. Although the size would barely compete with a Starbucks tall, the flavour was far superior. Not for everybody, it was a bit like drinking melted fudge but the bitterness of the coffee bean balanced it to a degree.

The breakfast menu features everything from savory egg dishes to sweet pastries. Sensing my indecision, the waiter (yes, I may have forgotten to mention you sit down and they take your coffee order at the table) recommended pane and ricotta; fresh ciabatta bread lathered with fresh ricotta cheese and topped with pear marmalade (honey was an option as well) for $3.50. There was no shortage of fresh cheese. The bread was fresh and the marmalade added the contrast of sweet and clove.

My Take

Chef Rob Gentile has not only jumped on the snack food bandwagon, he’s added horsepower and a fresh coat of paint. The deviation from dinner only hours provides the opportunity to snack on an array of goods anytime of day. A smart breakfast menu with both sweet and savory items which fills the huge gap between greasy spoons and coffee shop pastries is sheer genius. The diversity and quality of caffeinated options rivals any other coffeehouse in the area. I have every intention of indulging on cicchettis, spuntinis and schiacciatas sometime soon but thankfully I have 15 hours a day and 7 days a week to do so.

I Decided to Pukka Place off the Beaten Path

April 3, 2014April 6, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

Pukka opened last year along the relative foodie-free St. Clair West area. Until then, I’ve always associated the word Pukka with something that happens after a few too many pints or the name of a popular pie advertised at football matches across England. It’s real definition is “genuine”. Pukka touts itself as being the “best modern Indian restaurant in Toronto”. To date, most Indian restaurants in Toronto have been either small, family run hole-in-the-wall cubbies, extravagantly decorated upscale chains such as the Host or all you can eat buffets which dull down flavours to appease the boring palates of Caucasians who just looovvvveee Indian food. Pukka takes a page from Vancouver’s Vikram Vij, an international celebrity chef who gained fame by introducing Indian flavours into mainstream dishes in a stunning environment with excellent service.

Unlike Vij’s, Pukka takes reservations, so that’s a great start. I booked a table to have dinner with some colleagues. The decor mimics numerous other Toronto dinner hot spots. It’s cozy and noisy with a huge bar and colourful art all over the walls. The staff were courteous, dapper and as I would find out later, very knowledgeable.

First off was the drink order. Choices include wine, martinis, a small beer selection and traditional cocktails such as mojitos and old fashioneds. I was intrigued by the Chai town ($8.40), a clever mix of bourbon, chai tea, pomegranate liqueur and bitters. It tasted a bit like a Negroni’s younger brother. It had a pleasant sweetness coupled with the subtle tickling of chai on the tongue.

The menu is divided into snacks, eats and sides as well as bread and rice. We got the normal banter of how many dishes four grown men should order to ensure they leave happy. From the list of snacks, we ordered vegetable string chaat, tandoori chicken tikka and gunpowder prawns.

The chaat was one of my favorite dishes and certainly was the lightest. I’d best call it a bowl of Rice Krispies gone Bollywood. Visually stunning, the flares of colour and flavour provided a different snap, crackle and pop to this vibrant dish.

The chicken tikki was another visually stunning dish. More importantly, it maintained the moisture commonly lost when smaller pieces of chicken are overcooked. The seasoning was subtle and authentic and the saffron butter sauce added brilliance to the dish.

The gunpowder shrimp with moong bean salad was twice the price of the other snacks. Four hearty shrimp were presented atop of an earthy bed of beans. They were well seasoned although maybe a tad overcooked.

For “eats”, we ordered the boatman’s fish and prawn curry, the madras pepper steak and beef short ribs. As one of the most expensive dishes on the menu ($25.80), I was hoping for a little more content. Only a few prawns and a couple of chucks of fish swam in the thin but flavourful broth. One of the sides was Bhindi bhaji; tender okra which simply seasoned with onion, ginger and garlic. It was a fresh addition to the heavily sauced entrees which surrounded it.

Boatman's fish and prawn curry $25.80 Bhindi bhaji 8.7 — Boatman’s fish and prawn curry $25.80
Bhindi bhaji $8.70

The pepper steak ($19.70) was a flat iron cut served in a fragrant sauce with pepper, onion and coconut. Although it didn’t swell with Indian flavours, technically it beat others I’ve had from the likes of Ruby Watchco and Bestellen. The meat was tender and cooked beautifully, needing little more than weak pressure of a butter knife to get through. The side of green beans were jazzed up nicely with onions, tumeric and coconut. They kind of reminded me of a healthy version of pakoras.

Madras Pepper Steak ($19.70) and French Beans ($9.80)

The highlight of the night was the beef short rib ($22.40). The cook on the meat was perfect….no grit, no string, no chewiness. The sauce was an aggressive blend of traditional Indian flavours which enhanced the star of the plate instead of drowning it.

Naan ($2.70) and basmatic rice ($4.60) were offered as sides. I swear Mason jars make everything just a little more expensive.

From the small dessert menu, I went for the sweet plate ($9.80) as I was intrigued by the marshmallows rolled in garam masala sugar. The plate also came with a torte dipped in ginger and topped with whipped cream and tandoori pineapple. The third was naan khatai, a traditional Indian sugar cookie. The marshmallows were a tease and I easily would have traded the rest of the plate for four more.

My colleague ordered the toasted coconut panna cotta topped with lemon and tandoori pineapple. I had a morsel which was quite brilliant. It was a tad unorthodox, lacking the extreme sweetness of traditional Indian desserts.

My Take

Pukka could be the best modern Indian restaurant in Toronto. It fuses traditional but subtle Indian flavours with a decor and vibe indicative of Toronto’s trendy dining scene although it’s in a bit of an odd location. The dishes avoid the salty/fatty flavours that have become the seasoning of choice for many other nightspots and replace them with vibrant flavours including a whole lotta coconut.

The staff were friendly and knowledgeable, replicating a passion that mimicked the flavours that radiated from the plate. The chaat was brilliant. The meat dishes were executed to near perfection although the seafood was steeply priced and a little less impressive. The panna cotta and marshmallows were delicious.

If you’re looking for your taste buds to get slapped around by a dabba for a great price, one of the many mum and dad shops may serve your purpose. If you’re looking to overindulge on limitless portions of curries, there’s many a buffet for that. If, however, you want more subtle Indian flavours fused with trendy dishes at lofty prices in the context of a modern automat, Pukka is your place.

Going Retro outside the Metro

March 29, 2014March 29, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

The hunt for a great burger sometimes goes outside of the city limits. I was in Ajax recently and saw Retro Burger tucked in a strip mall on Bayley St. I went for two reasons. First, I left like a burger. Second, I wanted to determine what exactly made a burger “retro”.

There was a time when the word retro was used to describe things that occurred well before my time. As I get longer in the tooth (that saying in itself ages me), I realize that I am, in fact, retro. Although I can’t relate to the objects in the Grey Power commercials, I could relate to the Pac-Man icon on the wall and the fact that the smiling and enthusiastic staff were likely half my age.

Growing up, I remember two types of burgers. The first were the dry, underseasoned and overcooked ones I ate at home, likely the result of an exaggerated fear over some type of food-borne illness. The second were the oversalted fast food variety which included McDonald’s, Deluxe (a Sudbury staple) and A&W which,at the time, was served on a tray which hung off your car window while you sat in the drive-in.

Retro burger was neither. I would call it cross between Five Guys and Harvey’s. The burger was Five Guys except char broiled : moist and a nice thickness relative to the bun. What can I say? Bun:meat ratio is important to me. The toppings were Harvey’s style; choose your own from the offerings behind the glass. In addition to the standard condiments, they offer a number of sauces to spice things up. I went traditional, opting for cheese, mustard, onion, pickles and hot peppers. A sesame seed bun is always a good call. The fries were skin on and a nice thickness. The combo (including a drink), was around $10, taxes in.

There are a number of other items on the menu including philly cheesesteaks, hand- dipped fish and chips and souvlaki. The guy in front in front me order the cheese steak and it looked rather delicious.

My Take

After going to retro burger, I’m still a little perplexed at what makes this place retro. I couldn’t eat the burger off a tray hinged to my car window. It didn’t remind me of the pitiful, overcooked burgers I ate as a kid. Maybe it’s the fact that they pleasantly serve a decent burger at a decent price (including an after 2 pm special) without complicating things by offering kobe beef/buffalo patties topped with avocado, pineapple or a fried egg. Although the experience didn’t flood my brain with the nostalgia of 1982 , at least I wasn’t put through the torture of Tommy Tutone dialing phone numbers or forced to ensure one-hit wonder Buckner and Garcia’s “Pac-Man Fever”.

Foreplay with Eric Wood even though Susur Lee thinks he’s “Chopped” liver

February 22, 2014February 22, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

I went to the Beverley hotel yet again for lunch with a colleague. I was going to blog it right away until I heard that chef Eric Wood was going to be on Chopped Canada. I figure I’d wait to see if I could boast that I dined at the restaurant of a Chopped champion.

Ironically enough was the fact that Wood was taking on Bryan Birch from Barque, another place I managed to hit in the last year. With two very different styles and figured it would come down to the ingredients and the moods of the judges. What I didn’t expect is how moody they could be…

I’ve reviewed the Beverley twice already. I like it because it’s relatively quiet, has a nice ambiance, takes reservations and has a menu that can appeal to the masses. I started with the Butternut and Tarro salad. I enjoyed the balance of the sweetness of the squash and dates with the flirt of acid in the dressing. The tarro and beans offered a great textural contrast and an earthiness to this unique salad.

Eric Wood is know for his 4 play; a structural sound square meal; a snapshot of his id and ego on any given day. Typically, it’s an appetizer, salad, main and dessert. On this particular day, it was shrimp and mussels in a coconut broth, a sage and sunchoke gnocchi, an heirloom tomato salad with pressed ricotta and a sea buckthorn cheesecake with grape jelly. Foreplay like this makes me want to put out. The shrimp were delicious and were cooked to perfection. The gnocchi was nicely caramelized and was far from boring. Although I’m not a huge tomato fan, the cheese compensated and I really liked the dressing. The dessert hit the spot as well although it was a little sweeter than expected. I wanted to be totally overcome by the delicious tartness of the fruit especially in the midst of the super sweet jelly.

My Take

Chopped Canada is a double edged sword. In one sense it can assign subjective culinary supremacy to any of a number of aspiring and established chefs. On the other hand it can be a shot to the ego and reputation if one were to lose.

Eric Wood’s appearance on Chopped Canada was consistent with his restaurant philosophy: respect for ingredients highlighted with bold flavours. Despite this, Susur Lee couldn’t see the forest (in particular morel) mushrooms through the peas. From the minute Eric missed the infamous snack cake on the plate, Susur had it out for him. Perhaps it was some kind of king vs queen street rivalry or maybe a textbook example of workplace bullying, but it struck me as odd. After sulking about the snack cake, Susur went off on Eric’s blue rare duck, his accusations of making excuses, missing tahini, roasted morels that had the texture of leather and the inappropriate use of cardamom dust with key lime pie. Meanwhile, he turned a relative blind eye to things like overcooked salmon offered by other competitors.

Three’s a charm at the Beverley. In a sense, it has become my go to for a reliable place with a relevant and diverse menu in a beckoning environment. In particular, the 4 play is a fun spin on a lunch special, featuring the freshest ingredients used to construct a tongue-tickling portrait of a complete meal. There is a wide diversity of appetizers including the tasty butternut and farro salad. Perhaps chef Lee should drop by the Beverley hotel for a little 4 play and if he’s still grumpy after that, maybe he should just get Bent.

I Battled Gyozilla at Kenzo

January 27, 2014 spennyrd2 Comments

Most ramen joints are strutting their stuff right now. Neck in neck with tacos, ramen was the top trend in the GTA in 2013. Large windows showcasing the interior cramped quarters have become the norm for these eateries, so I was intrigued when I hit Kenzo noodle house on Dundas street over lunch. Blinds cover the windows below a modest red sign and a logo of a rather mean looking dude with his arms crossed. It seemed a bit taboo. Swinging open the door, I felt a little like Anthony Bourdain on CNN’s Parts Unknown until I quickly realized the blinds were likely there to keep out the sun and not to hide something forbidden. The decor was plain; in fact almost run down. A combination of tables and booths line the walls which are covered with aged pictures advertising Matcha tea smoothies. The creepy white ceramic cat which features in the majority of Asian restaurants stared and waved at me with that look I don’t quite trust.

A pleasant waitress came by quickly with a glass of water a handed me a menu which looked like it had been dropped in a puddle and then used as a origami medium to create that creepy white cat or some other creature. It consisted of a number of ramen bowls, categorized into basic, hot, cuisine and tonkotsu. There were also a few interesting sides including a breaded pork chop, gyoza and octopus balls. As usual, I ordered the gyoza dumplings and opted for the tonkotsu ramen. You have the option of three levels of spice, so I ordered the middle intensity. The soup was out in minutes, served on a tray with shichimi and pepper. It was a pretty soup, topped with finely slice scallions, bok choy, bamboo shoots, roasted pork, egg and a fishcake. The broth was a vibrant, milky white contrasted by specks of red indicated that some heat would ensue. It had a balanced taste with a bite (definitely don’t go level 2 if you don’t like spice) that didn’t overpower the dish. In fact, there was no prevailing flavour which made for a nice base. The liberal use of scallions really helped the soup and the other ingredients, including the noodles, were cooked properly.

Unlike the other ramen houses I have been to, the Gyoza came after the soup. I choose an order of three as opposed to the full order. When they arrived I realized why there were blinds were on the windows. They were housing Gyozilla, the largest Japanese dumpling I have seen in a restaurant. I felt feeble as I lifted my puny chopsticks to battle my pork filled foe. Although a little greasy, they popped with flavour, especially when coupled with the tangy sauce on the side. I eventually won the battle, but it took three or four bites each to do so.

My Take

Kenzo is like a B movie, offering one of the largest cast of ramen bowls in the downtown core. While other ramen houses have fancy decors and lines out the door, Kenzo is modest in appearance and appears to have a devoted following (there was a steady stream of people the whole time I was there). Relatively speaking, it’s almost unmentioned on urbanspoon. After conquering Gyozilla in an epic battle, I did feel a bit like Anthony Bourdain in a Walter Mitty sort of way. Having seen the octopus balls at another table, I’d come back for the sequel, this time turning my attention to Oodako, the giant cephalopod which ravished villages in the B movie classic King Kong vs Godzilla. My chopsticks are ready.

Sandwiched Between the Young and Old at BarVolo

January 23, 2014January 24, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

BarVolo got me thinking about what I was doing in 1985, the year it was established. I was a 12 year old elementary school student whose diet consisted of cooked ham on white, apples and a thermos full of fruit drink. The highlight of my school day was sniffing copies of handouts from the ditto machine like a drug addict.

Here’s a few other food things that happened in 1985

James Beard died at the age of 81.
New coke was released only to be scrapped later the same year, spawning the old but new Coca-Cola classic.
James Dewer, inventor of the twinkie in 1930, died.
Raspberry Beret by Prince hit #1 on the charts.

Source: http://www.foodreference.com/ (a good reference site for food geeks).

BarVolo is a small brewpub located near Yonge and Wellesley. There are a handful of tables and a bar area that stands 15 comfortably. It has a vibe of a old schoolhouse, the centrepiece a large blackboard boasting over 30 types of beer (and a couple of wines and ciders) ranging from house brew to hearty stouts and porters. Otherwise, you can order well over a hundred bottles including some rare and expensive choices from the cellar. They don’t take reservations, so you leave your name, slink up the bar and hope for the best. A look around at the crowd suggested that I was among the 5 or 10 people in the entire bar that was probably alive in 1985.

One of my highlights is the fact that they serve 6 different cask ales including their own black ESB. It was a good punch in the mouth although the aftertaste was a little acrid. Next, in homage to my daughter, I ordered the house ale swag out (imperial stout with swag). As an uncool parent, I have been instructed that I cannot use the words YOLO or swag in any context at any time. She never said I couldn’t drink it though. It turned out to be a killer version of a great winter beer. The 8.5 percent alcohol was subdued by the intense malt and hop flavour. Great balance.

When you ask for food, you are handed a laminated menu and a pen to check off any of the many menu offerings. It consists mainly of snacks and nibbles including cheeses, pates, terrines and charcuteries. Condiments are also available for a price. You can also grab one of a half dozen sandwiches if you want. I opted for a taste of each of the major categories, which they arranged on a platter. Included were smoked duck sausage ($5), clothbound cheddar ($5.50), venison terrine ($5), a brooklyn’s finest pickle ($3) and peanut bacon fudge ($5). I also ordered some hot trap mustard on the side ($1.50). It was a delightful mix of taste and textures. The duck sausage was melt in your mouth delicious. The pickle was spicy with a distinct crunch. The cheddar was firm and salty; a true reflection of an artisan cheese which deviates a bit from the original. The terrine was decent but didn’t burst with the cherry and nut flavours I was promised. The sourdough bread (from nearby Woodlot) and mustard were wonderful compliments, nicely adhering the diversity of tastes on the plate.

I ordered the fudge because it was the only thing that slightly resembled a dessert on the entire menu. Whether it was the contrast of the sweet against the salty and sour flavours of the rest of the plate or the fact it was just delicious fudge, I thoroughly enjoyed it. The specks of bacon scattered among the sweet yet savory peanut flavour just worked.

Platter with pickles, mustard, venison terrine, fidge, duck sausage and cloth bound cheddar — Platter with pickles, mustard, venison terrine, fudge, duck sausage and cloth bound cheddar

The fish board was equally delicious. Smoked salmon, trout and pickled herring were served with a FANTASTIC horseradish sauce and a unique but delicious slaw that I’m still trying to figure out. The pickled egg and beans added some nice acid to the board.

My Take

BarVolo is a great venue for those who want a little food with their beer (which includes 6 casks and a number of house brews). That said, the grub is far from substandard although some may be reluctant to pay $3 for a pickle and a buck and a half for a ramekin of mustard (sounds like a lyric from the Tragically Hip’s Little Bones in a time where Gord Downie still had hair and most patrons were still in diapers). There’s a spectrum of menu items packaged in bite size and sharable morsels which can appease a solo diner or a table of 6. The biggest issue is whether a table of 6 is even possible. The place is small and doesn’t take reservations, leaving those waiting to frolic in a holding tank the size of new coke’s popularity. It’s more crammed than cozy. Plus, I get a tad annoyed when establishments boast about how big their lines are on facebook and twitter, especially when they don’t have the greatest means of dealing with them.

Although 1985 produced some nasty and forgettable things, barVolo wasn’t one of them. Despite the fact that it’s inundated with clientele who weren’t exposed to Reaganomics or the Flames’ only Stanley cup win, there was some solace when a trio of 60 something hipsters walked in, looked at me and likely wondered if I was alive the last time the Leafs won the cup. Regardless of whether one can relate to Pierre or Justin Trudeau or anybody in between, those who appreciate good beer with salty snacks (I didn’t try the sandwiches) will enjoy barVolo. After all, the small confines physically don’t allow for a generation gap anyway. YOLO, right?

Sharing Inferiority and Ghosts of Ronaldo Past at Chiado

January 18, 2014January 19, 2014 spennyrd2 Comments

Portugal reminds me of Canada in that both have major inferiority complexes. Canada lags behind the Americans in important things like Olympic gold medals, cheap book prices and more recent the value of the dollar. The states also have more restaurant chains, larger portion sizes, cheaper chicken nuggets and more childhood and adult obesity (although Canada is making valiant efforts to try and catch up on the latter).

Portugal, on the other hand, is overshadowed by Italy, Spain and France. In a CNN travel report in 2012 examining the world’s most romantic nationalities, Spain, Italy and France placed 1,3, and 4 respectively while Portugal did not even make the top 10, finishing behind the Americans, Irish and Vietnamese.

On the soccer pitch, Portugal historically lags behind their European rivals. Italy, France and Spain have all won european and world championships whereas Portugal is still seeking its elusive first win. There was some redemption recently when Portugal gained a world cup entry with an impressive second leg win over the Swedes. In addition, Portuguese phenom Cristiano Ronaldo took back the Ballon D’Or, the award for European soccer player of the year. Things are looking up.

When looking at Toronto’s dining landscape, the big three reign supreme. Year after year, Italian, French and Spanish restaurants top critic’s lists of best in the GTA and many of the new trendy restaurants that have opened recently are Spanish tapas joints like Patria, Carmen and Bar Isabel. When asked about the big three, Joe Q Foodie will easily cite the fact that the cuisine is all about respecting the fresh ingredients and using simple cooking methods. When asked about Portuguese cuisine, however, he will use his high school geography knowledge and assume fish. He faintly remembers Siri Siri sauce as he nervously shuffles his iPhone in his cardigan pocket wishing she was there to help (afterwards he secretly asks her only to be disappointed that she only brings up the wikipedia page for “sauce” but with more investigation discovers it’s actually piri piri sauce).

After a pipe burst at Adega, my group was rerouted to Chiado on College street. It’s a quaint, attractive venue adorned with colourful paintings and well dressed waitstaff. We were seated promptly and received a very good explanation of the menu. One of the signatures of the service is the presentation of a fish platter; a visual aid boasting the wide array of available choices from the sea. Included in the mix were three whole fish choices. For the indecisive, they also offer a tasting plate featuring three cuts chosen at the chef’s discretion.

Like soccer, the wines of Portugal are overshadowed by the products of Italy and France (I will politely leave Spain out of the equation). My experience with Portuguese wine has been limited to my mother buying one bottle of Mateus a year, having one glass and reserving the rest to clean silverware or something other household use. I was pleased to see a huge variety of wines from the mother county featured on the menu and quite enjoyed the poppy, fruity Luis Pato wine made with the Marie Gomes grape. I’m a sucker for a fringy type wine (I love Austrian Gruner for example) so I really liked it…maybe a little too much.

The amuse-bouche was a beautiful cheese served with a balsamic reduction and drizzled with honey. It worked much better than my picture did.

Amuse Bouche- Cheese with Balsamic and Honey — Amuse-Bouche- Cheese with Balsamic and Honey

For an appetizer I ordered the grouper carpacio atop white asparagus, topped with pine nuts and seasoned with citrus. It was quite a sizable portion and was more like a ceviche. It wasn’t the prettiest dish and probably would have benefited from a little colour and/or spice. Maybe some green asparagus instead of white might have worked. Other than the appearance, I enjoyed it but there was way too much.

Also at the table was the grilled squid w/fresh coriander, lemon, garlic, extra virgin olive oil served with roasted sweet peppers, charred tomato and caramelized leeks. It was a very well executed dish and rivaled any calamari those Italians make. Once again, it was simply presented but lacked a visual punch.

Grilled Squid w/fresh coriander, lemon, garlic, extra virgin olive oil served with roasted sweet peppers, charred tomato and caramelized leeks $15

I like the thought of playing with my food so I tackled the whole ocean perch. I was also sold on the promise of a large and tasty cheek. The fish arrived with the token potato and vegetable side. The ocean perch is quite bony so I felt a bit like a nervous surgical intern, especially when I offered a piece to a colleague at the table and failed to remove all the bones. I think the waiter sensed my frustration and politely offered to remove the other cheek for me. With my knife and fork he worked with a surgical precision and pulled out a large cheek which made the whole experience worth it.

I had an indecisive friend sitting beside me who ordered the sampling plate. Much to my delight, she was kind enough to share a little of her octopus, monkfish and skate. The skate and octopus were delicious but the monkfish stole the show. It was easily the best thing I ate all night. I was tempted to cause a distraction to swipe the remaining filet but kept my composure. As an afterthought I should have showed her a picture of a monkfish and asked her if she actually felt comfortable eating one of the ugliest fish on the planet. Damn hindsight.

For dessert, I went for the molotof which was described as a light meringue of egg whites served with vanilla cream sauce. The irony of this is that I think meringue is one of the most ridiculous food trends going but I was intrigued by the promise of the lightness compared to the brick hard meringue served everywhere else. It was a good call. Unlike the starters, it was presented pretty. It was light and delicious and my friend cashed in the IOU on the monkfish and scooped a few bites.

She ordered the peras cozidas (poached pears with Madeira wine, citrus, cinnamon and saffron). The pears were attractive, fresh and laced with punchy, spicy flavour.

My Take

I don’t mean to pick on Portugal but they are an easy target just like us Canadians (plus I haven’t forgiven them for ending England’s slim world cup dreams in 2006). The food, however, is underrated. It has the same philosophy as Spain and Italy in that it focuses on the freshness of the ingredients. As for Chiado, it’s a cozy place which nicely represents the beauty of what the ocean and Portugal has to offer. I agree with the reviews which question the prices but I can’t agree with those who call the service cold and pretentious. I found it professional and if anything confident, especially when he dissected my fish with the precision of Cristiano Ronaldo. Speaking of which, a few more monkfish filets may make me forgive him for scoring one of the penalty kicks that knocked England out of the world cup for good 8 years ago.

Review: Breaking Bad at Carbon Bar

January 13, 2014January 13, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

I finally got Netflix a few weeks ago. Part of the reason was to finally remove myself from the list of the 25 people who haven’t watched Breaking Bad. After watching a few episodes and watching it win at the Golden Globes, maybe I should pay homAge to the show that made chemistry cool again. Whether it’s the structural changes needed to denature the protein in an egg or the intangible spark which may exist with two people sitting across each other at a table, chemistry is an ingredient you can’t pull off the shelf. It can, however, be captured in those who understand and can embody the variables which may result in the sought outcome. Just ask Walter White.

Carbon (the foundation of organic chemistry) is a new restaurant/lounge that has opened at the corner of Queen and Church. Owned by the Note Bene group, the website describes it as a place “where fun-loving aficionado’s, gourmands and bon vivants meet to share un-pretentious snacks, plates and platters delivered with impeccable hospitality in a space inspired by the storied pAst of a rock’n’roll discotheque, an upstart TV station and a media giant’s studio”. When you walk in, you’re not sure if you’re entering a dance club or a Moxie’s. Smiling woman greet you and offer to take your coat. When you climb the few stairs and turn the corner you walk into “the space”. It has dimensions that could double as Walter’s meth lab. It’s a roomy, square dining area with a big bar, an open kitchen and a combination of booths and tables. The ceilings are high and it’s decorated in a simple but attractive fashion.

From the bar, there’s a decent cocKtail list, a nice array of wine and a somewhat unimpressive list of cliche Beer. I started with the Smokin’ Manhattan ($14), made with tobacco-infused Maker’s MArk, bitters and a couple of booze soaked cherries. It was well made but the price put it on the upper limit of acceptable.

Smokin' Manhattan $14 — Smokin’ Manhattan $14

The second drink was the Carbon bar Caesar ($16), made with tequila, chiLi, lime, clamato and a 37 spice rim. It was surPrisingly unremarkable and nowhere worth the price.

The hit of the night seemed to be the Volstead which a few of my friends at the table ordered. Made with gin and Montenegro and flavoured with lemon, orange bitters and Cucumber, it’s a perfect summer drink that still holds it own during the winter months.

I ended with a Kensington brewing company Augusta ale which was one of the only draught beer worth drinking.

The menu is small plate and mainly focuses on the trenDy cuisine of the southern US with a spattering of favorites from other parts of the earth. It’s always interesting going out to a restaurant with the concept of sharing when you’re with “peskies” (a generic term which includes the likes of peScatarians, those with gluten intolerences and pescatarians with gluten intolerences). The waiter was excellent. He knew the menu cold. For example, he identified there would be gluten in the soy sauce of the jerk cornish hen and in the sugar coating of the pecans in the celery, apple salad.

We sampled a number of dishes so I’ll be short but sweet:

Hot Mess ($11)-sweet Potato, cheese curds, Crema, pickled jalapeño, chopped brisket

It tastes like it sounds. A well executed and modern Version of Canada’s iconic poutine. Delicious.

Raw Salad ($12)– avocado, pear, radish, sHaved coconut,corn nuts, coriander, lime viNaigrette

Fresh, acidic and pRetty. Definitely a sharable because it starts Snappy but can a bit boring after a Few bites.

Quezo de Cabeza ($13)- Fried suckling pig, pork ‘n’ beans, Hen’s egg, pickled Beets.

The perfectly cooked egg sat atop this childhood favorite. It had great flavour although I wished the pork was fried a little more and was a little less fatty.

Blackened Sea Bass ($22)– yuCa, chili, lime, coriander, tomAtillo chutney

The tender bass was complimented with an array of flavours but the highlight was the tomatillo chutney. A well balanced dish.

Jerk Cornish HeN ($18)- black eyed peas, Coconut milk, mango & papaya salsa

Although the chicken was moist, the seasoning was a little lack lustre. The dish had a uNiformly smoky flavour which could not be overcome by the timid salsa.

Oak-Fired Octopus ($21)- okra, sAusage, hominy coRn & lobster gumbo

All the components of gumbo with the addition of tender pieces of Octopus. It worked.

Porcini and Grits ($19)- grits, sautéed porcini mushrooms, deep fried egg Yolk, crisp kale, huitlacoche dust (a type of corn fungus)

The table consensus was this was the best dish of the night. The flavour was incredible but very rich so definitely recommend as a shared plate. The crispy kale was a great touch. It could have used more mushrooms. Great for the pEskie at your table as well.

Pumpkin Pie Ice Cream ($9)- rice pudding, barberries, wild blueberries,candied sunflower and pumpkin seeds, spiked eggNog

Sparked a little controversy at the table. The rice Pudding was average but the addition of the other ingredients pumped it up. The ice cream was seasoned well with earthy spice and sweet pumpkin. I think warming the rice would have added to the overall experience.

Sorbets and Ice Creams ($3)– apple, lychee kombucha, buckthoRn, goat’s milk ice cream & Wild honey

A refreshing and delicious finish to the meal. The buckthorn seemed to be the favorite. Was initially served with graham Crumbs but that didn’t work for the peskies so it was replaced quickly and without question.

Apple, lychee kombucha and buckthorn ($3 each)

My Take

Carbon is Note Bene’s response to the continued demand for casual eateries which serve good food instead of standard and water downed versions of foods that were popular two years ago. I think they succeeded. The cocktails are a bit pricy, especially the less than impressive caesar. The beer selection is more trendy than it is good. Otherwise, it’s a safe but well executed menu that was not shy on flavour. The highlights were the porcini ‘n grits, octopus with gumbo and the sea bass (especially the tomatillo chutney). The service was incredible and environment (including the music) was current, hip and applicable to the diverse clientele scattered across the roomy interior. Like Breaking Bad, Carbon makes chemistry cool again. In this case, the chemistry is a mix of great food, courteous and intelligent service and a great environment.