Uncategorized – Page 27 – Fare..Eat..Ales

Review:Toronto:Kensington Market/Chinatown:Strada 241

November 8, 2012 spennyrd2 Comments

Strada 241 is the newest creation of Toronto restauranteurs the Rubino brothers. Espresso bar by day and Italian restaurant at night, this restaurant is geographically confused, appearing in the middle of Chinatown instead of as another clone along Queen West or College Street. The front is subtle and easy to miss amongst the loud signs of the surrounding grocery stores and asian eateries. Once inside, you are warped into a rustic decor characterized by brick walls, high ceilings, low hanging light shades and worn hardwood floors. The spacious coffee bar is separated from the back dining area by an open prep area showcasing a modern pizza oven. After I was seated, I met Tanya who sat down at the table, , explained the menu in-depth and made wine recommendations with a flare and passion missing from other restaurants who assume I should just know. I started with a Pecorino wine at her suggestion and later progressed into a red from the modest and heavily Italian list.Must

If I could eat my dessert first, The Budino (vanilla-poached apricots, saffron custard and olive oil) would be top of the list. Everything about this dish is delicate, from the vanilla poached apricots to the subtle saffron custard, offering a variety of textures and tastes bordering on savory all placed with perfect balance inside a mason jar. I’m developing quite a taste for the incorporation of olive oil into dessert and in this case neither the oil nor the saffron was overpowering but subtle and accenting.

Maybe

Pizza is a competitive word in Toronto and Strada has a bit of work to do to move up the ranks. At this point they may be able to claim the “best pizza” on Spadina (given it’s a stand alone Italian joint in the middle of Chinatown), but some refinement is need to compete with some of the Queen Street or little Italy juggernauts. The Alessandro was topped with a fresh sauce and tasty meatball but it all seemed to pool onto of an average crust, creating an overall texture that was a little disappointing.

Mundane

The rapini served with a lemon vincotto dressing sounded appealing but fell flat. I envisioned a warm, al dente dish with a nice citrus punch but instead received a chilled, under seasoned clump of overcooked rapini hidden beneath some crisp bitter greens and some rather tasty pickled red onions. It became boring really quick…in other words, when the onions were gone.

I appreciate an effort to accommodate to a meatless clientele, but the squash fritti seemed like a lame attempt to replace traditional calamari. Served impaled on what looked like a bed of random nails in which the lack of practicality trumped the artistic value. The squash was tender and served piping hot, but the accompanying salsa verde added nothing more than colour. I was craving some heat or acid to tear though the fat, sweet and starch flavours which characterized the deep-fried gourd.

My Take

Strada 241 is an italian inspired cocoon nestled among a neighborhood more likely to actually offer 241 pizza as opposed to rustic Italian fare. The question is whether it will materialize as a stand alone in an area not far from dozens of similar establishments. The decor and service are above par but the food needs to catch up. I would go back anytime for a morning coffee if the advertised house baked goods even remotely mimic the budino. Other than that, I’ll wait to see if it emerges as a butterfly or remains a chrysalis hidden among the dim sum shops and noodle houses straddling Spadina Avenue.

Review:Toronto:Downtown:Richmond Station

November 2, 2012November 3, 2012 spennyrd1 Comment

Richmond Station posts the following message on their urbanspoon page: “Richmond Station is a stopping place, a bustling neighbourhood restaurant in the downtown core. We are committed to delicious food and excellent hospitality.” A simple message but one forgotten by many eateries in the area.

Upon arriving for my reservation, I was brought to a table with a great view of the open kitchen. Unlike some other restaurants which boast retro soda coolers or toque-wearing moose heads, the decor is a simple white tile, black accents and classy hardwood tables. I was impressed with the layout of the chef’s table which seats about 8 people. The wait staff were equally as classy, dressed in black. Even the chefs were traditionally dressed, donning crisp whites and black aprons.

richmond kitchen — Richmond’s open kitchen with chef’s rail.

The hostess was very friendly, sat me quickly, provided a menu and I ordered a fantastic modernized version of a whisky old-fashioned cocktail at her recommendation. The waiter arrived shortly after and immediately asked me my name which he used for the remainder of the night. His service was impeccable, making menu recommendations while confidently explaining the restaurants concepts and philosophies. He seemed by my side all night, filling my water glass repeatedly and often explaining the station’s journey to date.

richmond cocktail — Old-Fashioned Cocktail

Excellent hospitality…check.

Now the food.

Must

The featured New Brunswick oysters were fresh and shucked without a flaw. The presentation was like a visual aphrodisiac, served on a bed of ice with fresh horseradish and house made condiments including a tangy mignonette, fresh marinara and spicy hot sauce. I witnessed a definite devotion to “excellent hospitality” from the kitchen when the lady beside me still received all of the accompaniments when ordering a single oyster. At $3.5 each, there may be a temptation to break the bank of these tasty critters even before tackling the main menu.

richmnd oysters — Oysters with condiments

I received a lesson in what a real lobster bisque is supposed to taste like. Ignoring the trend to call any soup a bisque because it sounds better, Carl Heinrich’s team reverts to old school French methods, producing a thin but flavourful broth emulsified with classic ingredients such as cream and seasoned with tarragon. The result was a marriage of tantalizing flavours and although it did start to separate a bit toward the end, most will easily consume the majority beforehand.

Keep an eye on the blackboard. On this night there was a duck breast served on a braised duck leg. The shredded leg was thoroughly cooked but still tender while the breast was sliced a perfect medium rare. Both cuts were graced with a flavourful sauce and served with some vibrant greens. This dish may answer the old question..am I a breast man or a leg man? Based on this dish, my answer is both. Then again, maybe it’s the oysters talking.

Maybe

Also on the blackboard was a 6 oz beef offering for $26. Beef is usually a safe bet and Richmond Station was no exception. The seasoned beef had a beautiful sear and was sliced medium rare but was difficult to see amidst the jungle of greens covering the perfectly cooked steak. The meat itself had a fantastic flavour but I wasn’t fond of the bed of overly buttered chopped brussel sprouts which laid the foundation for the beef, which just made the already rich tasting beef taste even richer.

richmond steak — Beef Special (see blackboard)

Mundane

The regular menu features a starter section highlighted by a $13 lobster cocktail. Lose any premonition of a tall glass overflowing with fresh, chunky lobster. Instead, expect a more measly presentation of 4 deep-fried lobster pieces served on a piece of lettuce with a dollop of cocktail sauce. Sharing means you’ll only get two (or maybe three if you can mildly distract your table mate). If you’re going to go fishing at Richmond Station, spend $14 and get 4 oysters instead of these land-battered crustaceans.

My Take

Richmond Station’s urbanspoon proclamation claim holds true lead by a well-trained, courteous staff and a trendy menu with classic French influence overseen by a proven champion in Carl Heinrich (who even came out to ask how the meal was). The classic decor follows suit, characterized by a modern but bourgeois surrounding reminiscent of the style of Candice Olson as opposed to Red Green, Bruce Wayne or Beetlejuice. In the end, both the concept and the location create a perfect storm, appealing to celebrity chef chasers, downtown dwellers, floating foodies and those who appreciate french inspired food without the confines of bistros adorning white table linen and equally stuffy service. I’ll come by again when they open for lunch, but for now I don’t mind this train stop along my voyage in search of culinary pearls.

Review: Toronto: Baldwin St: Kinton Ramen

October 25, 2012 spennyrdLeave a comment

In Toronto, ramen houses are the new black of Toronto, topping popular trends such as sushi bars and taquerias on the foodie fad lists of late. They are appearing on every street corner with huge variation in both presentation and price. Kinton Ramen, backed by the emerging Guu empire, is one of the leaders of the pack offering a mid-priced soup with mid-range Guuesque song and dance.

Heeding the warnings of other bloggers and posters, I ventured to Kinton Ramen at the tail end of their lunch hours (about 2:15) to avoid the rush. I arrived to a restaurant about three quarters full and was seated at the bar near the door almost immediately. It’ s a modest but pleasant environment without the high decibel levels of its Guu sisters, which is fitting for its location along Baldwin street.

Maybe

I opted for the Shio Ramen in a effort to get a good pulse on their version of the trendy soup. It’s milky looking broth lacked the visual appeal of some of the other noodle soups I’ve had. If you really like pork, you’ll like this ramen. If you like pork more than soup, you’ll like this ramen. If you think pork is the other white meat…you get the point. I expected a fragrant broth with multidimensional tastes and flavours but this was trumped by an overwhelming pork taste driven by the shoulder, belly and broth itself. The belly itself was delicious and tender. The noodles erred on the side of underdone. The seasoned egg was a nice addition but lacked a bit of the flowing yolkiness I usually enjoy with a ramen soup.

Mundane

Like spicy tuna sushi, gyoza are one of those things I automatically order on a menu (unless when I’m at Moxie’s or where they want 12 bucks to make 6 dumplings look pretty). At Kinton, for 3.5 you get 4. The surrounding dough was tough and chewy. I opened one up to give the filling a fair chance as a stand alone , but the scarce ball of under seasoned ground pork inside was almost as lackluster as the dough itself. I have purchased store bought dumplings which I’ve done in a home steamer and fried that have tasted better.

My Take

Kinton Ramen is a decent lunch spot with a reasonable price point but with the number of other lunch spots along Baldwin St. it wouldn’t be my first choice. It will be interesting to see if the ramen rage is a phase or a sustainable lunch option moving forward. The future of places like this will hinge on the sustainability of this trend because, although I did not try any other “sides” it appears that, based on the gyoza, at Kinton you should stick with the ramen and that ordering anything else might be a crap shoot….literally.

Review:Toronto:The Annex: Guu Sakabar

October 23, 2012 spennyrdLeave a comment

The dining scene in Toronto has diversified over the past few years. Gone is the choice between snooty white linen, chain restaurants or seedy local bars. Diners are looking for more than food, they want an experience which will either complement or overshadow the food itself.

Guu Sakabar is marketed as an experience gone Gangnam style, characterized by loud music, singing cooks and a modernized version of old school Japanese dining including removing your shoes to sit at a kotatsu (low Japanese table which puts your head at eye level to your server’s knees). Some may see it as fun, hip and lively, others may see it an adult Chuck-e-Cheese or a glorified Lick’s. Most of the dishes are simply prepared and presented.

Must

The Hokke (mackerel) was a simple grilled fish, lightly seasoned and presented bone-in. No instruction was provided on proper boning technique so it may present an annoyance for some. The fish was cooked perfectly, moist and flaky and it was a good-sized portion. The only issue was it came 10-15 minutes after everything else which made it a little less appealing to eat.

Maybe

The Ebimayo (fried prawns with spicy mayo) were decent. The prawns themselves were a good size, cooked right but were too slathered in the less than impressive mayo which made them a bit soggy.

There are a number of maybes on the menu depending on one’s personal taste. The grilled beef tongue (Gyu Tongue) was a unique dish simply seasoned with salt. It had a good flavour but has challenging liver-like texture which may not appeal to the masses. The Tontoro (pork cheek), is once again simply prepared but may be a bit too fatty for some palates, especially if the fat is not rendered enough.

guu shrimo — Ebimayo (prawns with spicy mayo)

guu tongue beef tongue) — Gyu Tongue (beef tongue..partially eaten)

Mundane

Regarding the experience, the environment is loud and the service is sketchy. It was very difficult to order extra food, get a drink or even the bill. I’ve already commented about the mackerel. Some may argue that the organized chaos adds to the fun but to me it’s an annoyance especially if it interferes with the flow of the meal. In addition, they have a rather ridiculous reservation policy which can be summarized as “We will only accept reservations when it’s not busy”.

My Take

A visit to Guu is like landing a gig as an extra on a bad Japanese game show or a B-rated film. The “fun” atmosphere is loud, chaotic and only adequate for conversation if you’re on a bad first date or with your mother-in-law. The set-up is not conducive to organized and efficient service. There is a wide variety of well-prepared simple and more exotic foods in reasonable portions for sharing which appeals to a spectrum of diners (including about a dozen vegetarian options if you don’t include the free smiles, passion and cheers).

In sum, it’s a good place to go if you have a small group with a variety of taste, if you don’t care about talking to them too much and if you have a lot of patience. Just keep an eye over your shoulder in case you spy Psy eating tontoro in Toronto or there is a random attack from Godzilla or Mothra.

Review:Toronto:Queen West:Ursa

October 21, 2012October 29, 2012 spennyrd3 Comments

Once upon a time there was a restaurant called Ursa… (after all, an exciting dining experience should be like a good story).

Positioned in the middle of Caju and County General on Queen near Shaw, it’s one of those cloaked foodie joints meaning it’s usually pretty busy without the online fanfare of a Grand Electric or Kinton Ramen (this is foreshadowing…stay tuned).

I was immediately greeted by Lucas, one of the co-owners and great storyteller. I was seated at the bar and was greeted by Robin, a bartender and equally good storyteller with a love for bourbon and homemade vermouth. It was quickly evident that both had a extreme passion for food and drink, a passion that I hoped would translate into a great dinner.

Must

Here’s where the story begins. I was told that the elk tartare was phenomenal and that the elk was singled sourced out of an farm in Kitchener and 7 muscle groups were incorporated into the final product. Impressive! I was warned in advance that it lacked some of the attributes of the traditional tartare including eggs and scallions. It was presented eloquently with a cracker, a bitter orange sauce and a piece of charqui (elk jerky). It could of used a bit of seasoning but in the end the meat spoke for itself. It was phenomenal.

Before retirement, according to Lucas, Joanne Kates (highly respected Globe and Mail food critic), said that Ursa served one of the best lemon meringue pies in Toronto. I can’t disagree. The pie had an abstract presentation, offered in a deconstructed fashion featuring a rich lemon curd, a fluffy meringue and a crust bound with rich duck fat. Not only was it delicious, it was an adventure and actually fun to eat.

Regarding cocktails, there is as much attention to detail towards the drinks as there is the food. I tried the Red Horn, signature bourbon cocktail (ask Robin about it…it’s quite a story and has won awards) as well as the daily smashed cocktail (in this case it was a gin/fennel mix which was delicious).

Maybe

For a main, I settled on the lingcod. The fish was cooked perfectly. It was served with a lack luster foam when, combined with the cassava and potato, had a monotonous flavour. The saving grace was the white peach, which offered a sour crunch which offered a needed flavour and texture contrast. The sage was a nice touch.

Another good story was the Santa Rosa plum salad. There are only a few hundred of these plum trees in Canada, and Ursa managed to partner with a farmer in BC to get them for the menu. The salad was beautifully presented and the plums were divine but I was left wanting more. The salad was under dressed and lacked a bit of the complexity I would expect for a $14 salad.

Mundane

I’d consider Ursa a bit stubborn. It is next to impossible to find a current menu online since their website is nothing more than a holding page with an address and a phone number. When you do see the menu, it is quite small. In fact, a couple walked in and out after viewing the menu and only seeing goat, rabbit and lingcod as traditional entrees. On the other hand, there are both good quality vegetarian starters and mains on the menu which may appeal to some. Others will argue it is expensive for the amount of food but personally I find it pretty comparable to similar joints in the area.

ursa menu — Elusive Ursa Menu- Subject to change Frequently.

My Take

Ursa is like a good picture book. Both the restaurant’s decor and presentation of the food are very visually appealing , edgy and comes with a great story. If you don’t like mysteries, however, this may not be the place for you. Even with the menu as a guide, the dishes are a bit unpredictable but at the same time kind of exciting. What I can say is that Ursa is an experience with beautifully presented dishes using unique and quality ingredients and if you get the full experience you may very well live happily ever after….The End.

The 39 year-old Virgin: Adventures in Barcelona.

October 20, 2012October 21, 2012 spennyrdLeave a comment

Yes, this is my first trip to Europe as I wasn’t privy to travel in my younger years. So, after almost 4 decades, I crossed the Atlantic, landing in Barcelona, Spain. Having spent the better part of two days there, I made the following observations:

1. People in Spain walk slow.
2. Wifi is difficult to find.
3. Everybody wears scarves.
4. A beer and sandwich combo is cheaper than a soda and sandwich combo at the airport.
5. The architecture is fantastic.
6. You need your room key to turn on your lights.
7. You can buy almost anything on the street including beer, umbrellas, street food, flowers etc.
8.The food is pretty good.

Since this is a food blog, I will focus on the latter. The food choices are endless. Every nook and cranny is jammed with small eateries, each promising a special variety of decor, personality and of course, food. The restaurants range from off the menu to choosing off a tray under a pane of glass. I can best describe it as simple. No garnish, no explanation, just the food.

A Tale of Two Tapas.

Ciudad Condal had a long wait but I was seated within 30 minutes.

Their flauta was probably the simplest yet the best thing I ate in the two days I was in Barcelona. Simply, it’s chorizo inside a small loaf of bread for about three euros. The crunch of the bread followed by the rich chorizo was perfect. I put a little machego cheese inside my second one which added some saltiness as well.

The patatas bravas are Spain’s version of poutine. They are basically potatoes covered in a creamy aioli and hot sauce. Also of honourable mention were the fried Padron peppers, simply prepared with salt and olive oil. The nature of these peppers are generally mild but a few on the plate pack a hot punch, leading to the term “Unos Picans Otros No” meaning some are hot, some are not. I was lucky to get a few biters. A great dish was the potatoes topped with fried eggs (Huevos Cabreados). It is a simple but delicious dish; matchstick fried potatoes topped with soft fried eggs cut table side.

I’m a huge flan fan. The creamy spanish flan was a nice ending and was not overly sweet despite the abundant caramelized sugar.

The service was fast, friendly and efficient.

egg potato — Huevos Cabreados (Matchstick Potatoes with Egg-Yum)

I’m always drawn by places with good reputations and high Zagat ratings. Tapas 24 fit the category in both regards. Much different than Ciudad Condal, Tapas 24 is situated in a basement just off the beaten path of the tourist section. It was about 11 pm and the place was packed. When I was seated I noticed a much smaller, yet more expensive menu than Ciudad. It was certainly more run down but was filled with character. I was seated at the bar so I could see the open kitchen which was run old school, with orders called from paper tickets stuck on magnetic boards and run like a well-oiled machine.

I started with the standard patatas bravas which were shaped like fries and looked a bit a bit dismal compared to the chunky potatoes at Ciudad. It was followed by the bikini (a bit of an ironic name given it’s a grilled ham and cheese sandwich). In this case if was flavoured with some shaved black truffle which was subtle as opposed to overpowering (it’s a fine line when it come to truffle). However, it was a bit imbalanced since the smoked ham I so enjoy was drowned out by the buffalo mozzarella. It was basically a nine Euro fancy grilled cheese. I finished with calamares (squid) recommended by a guy who looked and dressed like he should don a red cape and run away from bulls. It was simply presented, seasoned with olive oil and when mixed with the bitter, leaking squid ink provided a good balance. Not sure it was worth 16 euro, but it was certainly unique.

squid t24 — Tapas 24 Calamares (Baby Squid)

I didn’t realize Spain would have such good ice cream. In particular was a place called Belgious. Situated in what seemed to be a shady back alley along the goth section of the ramblas (maybe it was also the fact it was past midnight), my broken Spanish saw the word exotic and ice cream together and I was sold. I was able to sample a number of flavours including gin and tonic, szechuan pepper, curry and cannibus..yes cannibus. I ended up settling on a combination of thyme (my favourite spice) and Modena vinegar with raspberries. Delish! No picture though..a bit too shady to pull the Blackberry out.

On another note, there are great markets in Barcelona. I managed to visit two during my travels. La Concepcio is located not far from downtown Barcelona. It’s a smaller market with a wonderful seafood selection (the meat and chicken isn’t bad either) . In fact, you don’t even smell the fish despite the fact you’re surrounded by it. Both offered a wide variety of meats, chicken and some of the best fish I have ever seen. La Boqueria is perhaps the most well-known and busiest market and was certainly bustling when I was there. Once again, the seafood was amazing, complete with huge oysters and fresh fish butchered on the spot. There was a variety of prepared foods such squid on a skewer and fresh juices. I quenched my palate with a mango coconut juice for a couple of euros.

squid on stick — Squid on a Skewer at the Market

I hit the George Payne bar as well which offers great soccer, confusing drink specials and not so good food.

Review: Toronto: Food Truck: Hogtown Smoke

September 26, 2012August 6, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

Reminiscent of Big Foot or Rob Ford jogging, food trucks are a rather elusive sighting in Toronto. Bound by by-laws which do not allow more trucks to attain permanent residency in the downtown core, they are forced to travel like Nomads making it a bit of a feat to find one that is open on any given day. Check out http://torontofoodtrucks.ca/ for information about food trucks in Toronto.

As I approached the corner of Front and Sherbourne in search of Hogtown Smoke, I caught a whiff of the smoked meat about a block away. I happened to be second in line so I was able to sample some of the brisket right out of the smoker before I even ordered. Although it took a while to get rolling after a minor gas malfunction (which I appreciated because it allowed me to stare at the small menu like an idiot for 15 minutes without a clue what I was going to order)., the window opened and I was greeted by the friendly staff members. Specials included a kimchi grilled cheese and side ribs in addition to the traditional pulled pork, poutine, brisket, po’ boy sandwiches and kicked up grilled cheese. I opted for the ribs, brisket and poutine to get a taste for a bit of everything. The staff joked with the building crowd, apologizing for the delays and asking everybody their names.

Must

St. Louis Side Ribs ($10)

New to the truck, I was a little leery since side ribs are not as forgiving as back ribs and are easy to mess up. They came through by fulfilling the holy trinity of rib triumph; crunchy bark (although a bit salty), a deep pink smoke ring and fall off the bone tenderness. They were supposed to be served with baked beans and slaw but in the lunacy of opening I did not get the slaw so I can’t comment. The beans were very saucy, had great texture and bubbly flavours driven by the unmistakable sassifrassness of root beer. Imagine a baked bean flavoured Jelly Belly jelly bean and you’ve got the taste.

hogtown ribs — St. Louis Side Ribs with Root Beer Beans

2 lb Pulled Pork Poutine ($10)

This alliterative aliment almost achieves all acclaimed attributes (of a good poutine). Poutine has its own holy trinity characterized by fabulous fries, great gravy and cheese curds. Hogtown almost reached divinity. The fries were a good size, taste and texture (which is tough since poutine fries get really mushy, really fast). The pulled pork got bonus points. It had a huge, juicy pork flavour and good seasoning. My one criticism was the final execution because the curds didn’t melt under the gravy. A small thing, but a traditional poutinist may pou-pou it.

hogtown poutine — 2 lb Pulled Pork Poutine

Patron Jalapeno Mango Sauce

Use the Patron Jalapeno Mango sauce in anyway you can. It’s fantastic and can best be described as Big Mac sauce on steroids. I would go as far as baking up six High Liner fish sticks and bring them in a zip lock bag just so I could taste this sauce over and over again.

Maybe

Brisket ($10)

The brisket sandwich was sliced thin, piled fairly high and served on a good size swirly rye-type bun. At the recommendation of the staff, I topped it with the spicy barbeque sauce and horseradish aioli. The meat was busting with flavour with minimal grit but it was a bit dry. The sauces helped to moisten it up a bit, making it quite a good sandwich.

Mundane

Not much other than the early service disruption and the fact they forget my slaw!

My Take

Hopefully food trucks are here to stay because they provide limitless variety and creative license. Hogtown smoke didn’t disappoint, offering traditional smoke house flavours with modern twists. The ribs approached divinity. The poutine may have reached sainthood. Like many trucks, the biggest issue is execution and speed of service. These are good guys with a good attitude and a good concept. I’d endure minor traffic and a small crowd to come back. Hell, I might even start going to church again.

From Hippy to Hipster: The Rules Haven’t Changed

September 25, 2012 spennyrd2 Comments

I remember listening to the song “Signs” by Five Man Electrical Band (and later Tesla) when growing up. It speaks of the tribulations of a hippie trying to get a job or into a country club without a membership card. It was a scream at the state of society in the early 70s and reminds me of what it’s like trying to enjoy a meal in a restaurant in 2012.

The rules have changed in food service and establishments since the Five Man Electrical Band but remain as outdated as they were back then. Currently, establishments will have you believe that their rules are not an expression of pretension but in fact a matter of improving efficiency and adhering to good business practices. I call bull shit. Here are the some of the most ridiculous rules in food service today:

1. No Reservations with No Regret

I question any establishment who informs me that at this time “we regret at this time we are unable to accept reservations”. Open Table provides online reservations for over 25 000 restaurants across North America. Each one of these restaurants is “able” to accept reservations. Last time I checked the combination of a phone number, a hostess and a paper calendar is another way to ensure that people reserve a seat. I commend any restaurant whose success warrants an exclusion from the need to make a reservation, but it doesn’t help when meeting friends you haven’t seen in years or trying to impress a girlfriend, spouse or customer. “Hey, honey, I knew you’d enjoy standing in line for 45 minutes for the privilege of eating here” sounds much more romantic rolling of the tongue than “I knew you’d like this place so I made a reservation a month ago to make sure we could get in”.

As an example, the Mandarin, one of the busiest buffet restaurants in Ontario, willingly takes reservations although they don’t really need to so you don’t have to leave Gramma standing in the front door waiting for her chicken balls.

2. “As a result of our policy, we won’t seat you until your entire party has arrived”.

I’m puzzled by this one. I recently went to a restaurant where I was footing the bill for 9 people who were in various meeting during the day. I made a reservation (see it works!), let everybody know and was informed at the door, despite 8 of the 9 of us arriving, that we would not be seated until the whole party showed. I suppose I understand the fact that it makes much more sense to clog the doorway with people waiting to eat than just sitting them down and letting them start on overpriced cocktails and appetizers. I guess I could of loaded up the clown car and have us all roll in at the same time so as not to create any inconvenience for the restaurant.

3. “We can’t give you separate bills”

I challenge anybody to ask the poor waiter or waitress the reason for this policy. I guarantee you will be 25 different answers ranging from “It’s just our policy” to “our system doesn’t allow us to separate the bills”. I can’t argue with the first one since the answer is so clear and logical. Policy is policy. The second is amusing. I mean, you have a system that allows you to hit a computer screen with your finger and spit out a ticket to tell the kitchen that you want a medium well burger with extra pickle, no mayo and onion rings instead of fries but it can’t split a bill. You are also suggesting that your system is unable to take a $180 bill among 6 people and split it evenly. I’m sure any ten-year old has this same question on a math test and can figure out using a Texas Instruments calculator.

4. Cash Only

I understand that credit card companies are greedy, money-grubbing scum but they’re damn convenient. They let you spend what you want on a meal without having to do the calculations in your head based on the money in your pocket. I’d hate to skip out on the key lime pie because I ordered a side of grits with my brisket and only have 40 bucks in cash. There are surcharges that restaurants endure to carry Visa/MC/AMEX which increases business costs, but in many cases they are absorbed when pricing the menu.

I guess what I don’t understand is the fact that the “cash only” concept is now considered hip by some. I’ve been in a few restaurants where the server has proudly informed me of the policy with or without a phony apology. Others raise their eyebrows as passively stare at the “Cash only” written on the blackboard while clearing their throat. Don’t get me wrong, there are some helpful places. Some are kind enough to install an ATM in the establishment so you can absorb all the costs including whatever service charge they program into the machine. Another was kind enough to tell me that I could order first and that the nearest bank machine was about 500 metres down the road. I left and it felt good.

Don’t misunderstand me. I’m not adverse to paying cash, especially at food trucks, bars and hot dog carts. However, I don’t like being forced to do it, especially when I’m racking up a decent bill with drinks, entrees etc. It’s not like I see a significant cost savings passed to me especially when I’m sitting in a near condemned house at a formica table with mismatched chairs eating $14 eggs bennie off corningware plates I saw at a yard sale last week.

So, things really haven’t changed much since 1970. Whereas then you had to have a tie and a membership card to get inside, today you just need patience, your whole group and a big wad of cash.

Review:Toronto:Downtown: Momofuku

September 22, 2012September 22, 2012 spennyrdLeave a comment

I arrived in Toronto around 10:20 on Thursday night, parked and headed down the road to Momofuku noodle house, the much discussed David Chang restaurant in the Shangri-La Hotel on University Ave. Open for only a few days, the place was packed. I was greeted at the entrance and was able to bypass the crowd, not because I’m a famous food blogger but because I was solo and they had a single spot at the bar.

I was seated beside a rather distraught guy who seemed utterly confused by the hype of the place given the small menu, which offered a mere five bowls with some buns and sides and no dessert. He eventually had his many questions answered and settled on something. I was quickly greeting by a pleasant waitress who offered me a glass of water (which wasn’t empty for the rest of the night) and a quick explanation of the menu. I immediately noticed the precision and efficiency of the open kitchen which, like the service, ran like a symphony.

I settled on a seven spice sour slushie (sake, togarashi, yuzu, lime ($10))…say that 5 times fast or you get cut off… to start. A bit off the wall but a decent cocktail despite a few episodes of brain freeze due to the large straw and the fact that I drink like an eight-year old. I ordered pork buns, the ramen bowl, pickles and smoked wings. Within 15 minutes, the pickles arrived, followed by the buns and noodles. There was a mixup with the wings so I didn’t get them until for a while after the rest of the order came.

Must

The steamed pork buns ($10) were the highlight. A bit of a twist on the popular dim sum item, they were presented open-faced and filled with a tender pork belly and seasoned with a sweet sauce. Good thing I was dining alone because I might of fought somebody if they went for the second one.

momo pork buns — Steamed pork buns ($10)

Maybe

The ramen itself was beautiful and traditionally presented, complete with nori, pork two ways (shoulder and belly), and a soft egg. There was also a fish cake and a chinese cabbage. The pork, egg and ramen were cooked perfectly and the cabbage had a briny taste which contrasted the richness of the belly nicely. The broth, however, was a bit confusing. Quite dark in colour, it had an almost burnt taste which overpowered the other components of the bowl. I normally expect a broth to bring it all together, not stand out on its own. Perhaps I’m not as familiar with Chef’s Chang’s flavour profile, but I was left scratching my head.

I love pickles and will order them whenever I can. Momofuku’s version were presented in a small jar and mainly consisted of onions, carrots and cauliflower. It took me a bit to realize the bottom of the jar was lined with a mushroom cap as well. The vegetables were still crisp and tasty if you really like vinegar. On the other hand, I didn’t get the mushroom. After what seemed like an eternity, I finally pried it loose and could only manage a bite or two before giving up.

Mundane

I got roped in by the smoked chicken wings with pickled chili, garlic and scallion. As mentioned above, I didn’t get them right away but had a good opportunity to watch the preparation method in the open kitchen. They are browned on the griddle, broiled, seasoned and served. They were a good size and well seasoned but still contained a lot of unrendered fat which made them a bit too greasy. There’s no way I could eat anymore than two.

My Take

The opening of Shangra-La will bring some solid New York inspired dining along University avenue, an area in need of more eateries. Momofuku noodle bar is the first stab and comes with the backing of David Chang and his Michelin stars. As a result, there will be a lot of hype and a few people may be disappointed, especially given the fact it can be considered a bit on the pricy side. At the same time, this place will succeed and promise to offer a constantly evolving menu. Whether it is a few growing pains or just a bit of confusion in my understanding of the preparation, at the end I was left feeling a bit like the guy sitting beside me.

Review: Ottawa: Sidedoor

September 17, 2012September 22, 2012 spennyrd2 Comments

I consider it another sign of synchronicity when I had a chance meeting with Top Chef competitor Jonathan Korecki on a random Ottawa street mere minutes before I went to his restaurant, Sidedoor. After convincing myself (and him) that I wasn’t a stalker, I took the opportunity to ask him the one thing on the menu I should try. His priceless answer was “One thing?” Good point.

When I arrived, no fewer than 4 employees greeted me and I was seated quickly and Cameron took over for the rest of the night. He reaffirmed my theory that in Ottawa, the service often matches the food. He spent at least 2 minutes explaining the ins and outs of the asian-influenced menu, notably the fact that in each section the dishes go from lightest to heaviest.

There is a good selection of cocktails and draught beer. I opted for the bourbon-based SIDEDOOR cocktail which was crisp and satisfying.

Must

On Jonathan’s recommendation, I ordered the tuna sashimi which was one of the best dishes I’ve had in a while. The tuna was sliced thin and presented beautifully. The fragrant yuzu marmalade was delicate with a complexity which smacked my taste buds in all kinds of directions. I was tempted to lick the plate when the tuna was gone.

sidedoor sashimi — Tuna Sashimi with Yuzu Marmalade

In a previous blog, I questioned hawker bar’s son-in-law eggs, particularly the prik nam pla sauce. Sidedoor’s version (another suggestion from Jonathan) blew my mind. Tearing into the soft yolk and watching it saturate the surrounding rice and salad made me feel like a MasterChef judge. The taste matched the visual appeal and the sauce was not overpowering.

I love pickles and I’m known to ask for a sample whenever they are homemade. I noticed a mention on the menu so I pitched the idea at Cameron. Instead of a small ramekin filled with 2 or 3 gherkins, he returned with a plate of pickled vegetables that surpassed all expectations. It contained pickled beets, jalapenos, carrots, daikon radish, Jerusalem artichoke, melon rind and sea asparagus adorned with mustard seed pickled in a bread and butter style .

Jonathan’s third suggestion was the donuts. In this case, who can turn down the chef’s creation, a peanut butter stuffed donut topped with a cocoa glaze and banana. Better yet, they were served warm. All I can say is…they taste how they look although a tad bit more filling would of been even better.

Maybe

I tried the spicy beef and Bajan crispy fish tacos. They are a bit small for $9 but the shells were delicate and tasty. The spicy beef was hardly spicy but a bit of the homemade chili oil at the table helped. The Bajan tacos had a bit too much of the sauce which drown out the taste and texture of the fish a bit. I agree with their slogan, “Make Tacos, Not War” but can’t quite get to the state of “Make Tacos and then Make Love”.

sidedoor tacos — Spicy Beef and Bajan Fish Tacos

Mundane

I was looking forward to the “Peking style” chicken but I was a bit disappointed. Big in size but modest in flavour, the texture and interior pinkish colour almost made it look underdone. I found the surrounding broth a bit curious. The fish sauce was overwhelming which I didn’t think complemented the rest of the dish.

My Take

I wouldn’t hesitate to sneak in the sidedoor again. Bold flavours seem to lace every dish and there is enough diversity to visit a few times and get a very different experience. The tuna sashimi is a must and I can’t speak highly enough of the service. The staff is energetic, knowledgable and not phased by a large table of what seemed like the offspring of the “Real Housewives of Ottawa” partying it up a few tables down.

I was once told I should always listen to my mother and not talk to strangers. Based on this meal, I’ve learned I should always listen to chefs as well, even if I don’t know them.