drink – Fare..Eat..Ales

One of the advantages of living in London, Ontario is that there are a number of good concert venues within a 2 hour radius. In many cases, if a band doesn’t come right to London, they will do a show in Detroit, Buffalo, Hamilton or Toronto. Sometime I peruse all three venues looking for the best seats and price for a show. Such was the case for Rage Against the Machine. I remember frantically flipping through my phone looking for the best seats before settling on the Keybank Centre in Buffalo.

This concert was originally scheduled for the summer of 2020 and was bumped twice because of covid restrictions. I figured hey…I waited 30 years to see them so another couple of years wouldn’t hurt. My only worry was the fact that Zack de la Rocha tore his ACL at the beginning of the tour so the expectation may be that the level of energy may be a little lower than normal.

Most of my trips to Buffalo either start or end with a trip to Charlie the Butcher. This institution is a staple in Buffalo culture best known for Charlie’s hardhat and a beef on weck that Geoffrey Zakarian once called the best sandwich he ever ate. Honestly, I can’t disagree. Coupled with any of the stellar sides they offer (I’m usually up for the cole slaw), this is a can’t go wrong lunch.

Once we settled into the hotel, it was time for some preconcert drinks and dinner. A quick walk up Main Street brought us to the Other Half Brewing Taproom, a roomy space with an array of games and plenty of seating. I recall this brewery has a big focus on big and boozy New England style IPAs so had to limit our consumption to one.

On the way to dinner we said hello to the Nikola Tesla statue which made me remember the significant contribution he made to the Western New York power grid while hob knobbing with the turn of the 20th century tycoons. I only mention this because it may in fact be machines like this that Zack et al. have raged against for three decades.

Dinner was at the Pearl Street Grill and Brewery, a large and historic restaurant known for its numerous bars and great views. We sat on the patio and got to experience Buffalo’s trademark wind while sipping Don Cherry Cherry Wheat and munching on mussels along with Buffalo staples including wings and a kielbasa platter.

The show itself was exactly what I expected…a greatest hits compellation surrounded with an aura of angst and plenty of choreographed strobe lights. Although I missed Zach pounding the stage with his flare of old, despite sitting he didn’t disappoint from the waist up and the remaining band members energetically filled in the gaps. The show opened with Bombtrack and we were immediately reminded in big bright letters that “Fear is your Only God”. About half way through the show Run the Jewels, the opening band, came back out to jam to Close Your Eyes (And Count to Fuck). This was immediately followed by one of my favorites, Down Rodeo, in which Zack mimicked using a shotgun to emphasis the corresponding lyrics. Toward the end, the billboard flashed “Abort the Supreme Court” (I believe with “Freedom” playing in the background) in response to the anti-abortion decision a month prior. Fittingly, the show ended in the same manner as pretty much every bar experience I had during university in the early-mid 90s; a crowd sing along to “Killing in the Name of”.

All in all, it was a triumphant return to big tickets concerts following the covid hiatus and another older school band I could cross off my bucket list and it completed my holy trinity since I had already seen Audioslave and Prophets of Rage previously. I enjoy Buffalo and it’s blue collar vibe as a city (especially when I’m tailgating at a Bills game) and Keybank centre is a decent larger venue to catch as show. I was also reminded me that, although I have aged and my musical tastes have simmered somewhat, I can still appreciate an aggressive political antics as much as a more subtle message in sync with the subdued strumming of an acoustic guitar.

Setlist

Hawthorne recently opened in downtown with a bit of a mysterious aura. It has no website and relays all its information, including its menu, through its facebook page. The about tab describes the food as:

American (New)

American (Traditional)

Barbeque

Brunch

Hawaiian

Moroccan

Singaporean

Soul Food

Vegan

Vegetarian

It takes up the street level corner of 60 Richmond St which sits about a block southeast of the Eaton Centre. It has the layout out of a old school diner but with chic furniture, shelves of mason jars full of colourful pickled vegetables and on-table dessert menus held up with used wine corks. The menu is highlighted by a signature foursquare tasting meal offering small plates (literally presented on a single square plate) featuring fresh and seasonal ingredients.

Must

Beef brisket is available everywhere and Hawthorne’s offering ($13) competes with some of the best southern joints in the city. Sliced a tad thinner than most, the abundant use of whiskey BBQ sauce and the fattiness of the cut made the sandwich rich and moist and the brioche bun was able to withstand the drippy-goodness. The fries were cut slightly thick and served hot. The homemade ketchup was tasty although quite unorthodox, highlighted by a predominant smoky flavour.

Brisket Sandwich and Kennebec Fries ($13)

I’m a sucker for homemade soda and was pleased to see the Hawthorne offering. I opted for pear-cardamom and quite enjoyed its delicate and refreshing taste. It was not sickly sweet and was as refreshing a a cold Steamwhistle pilsner, the only other drink I’ve ever been served in a glass boot. A shot of gin from the well stocked bar would have made it a neat spin on a gin and tonic if I was in the mood and position for a potent potable.

Maybe

The soup of the day was the unique combination of collard green and lentil which was served in a clear glass pot. Although it was a bit thick, it had consistent texture and a freshness reminding me that the phenols would do their best to protect me from cardiac assault of the upcoming brisket.

I was intrigued by the paella bombs which were described as crispy rice cake, sausage, crab and tomato pepper relish. They were presented beautifully but were covered with mussels and clams which I found odd given the description on the menu.The flavours were great although it taste more like a jambalaya or a pot of mussels and less like a paella. The biggest issue is they were presented cold. I addressed this with the waitress who checked with the kitchen and confirmed they should have been hot. She did offer to heat them up but by then I was almost done.

Mundane

I was told the menu was new so I can understand a few items being lost in translation. However, mussels and clams on a paella is a pretty significant oversight. In addition, the menu indicated that the brisket came with housemade pickles. As a diner who will sometimes order an entree to get such pickles, I was irritated to see their absence. At first the waitress ensured me they were on the sandwich. A surgical dissection of the brisket confirmed otherwise and she went to the kitchen to inquire. The explanation was a typo on the menu and her peace offering was a rather dismal display of a few pickled carrots and sunchokes despite the wide array of options surrounding me.

My Take

There are obvious execution errors (temperature and menu descriptions) and waitstaff who seem a bit uninformed and disorganized. Both should be ironed out with time and practice. That said, the food is tasty and the environment is fresh and vibrant. I left generally satisfied despite a minor case of pickle envy.

Hawthorne is a bit confusing to the point where it lacks identity. It is designed like a high-end diner. The staff are dressed in foodie plaid. Some of the dishes are presented in fine dining style. The location (Richmond and Church) would mainly appeal to business folk and downtown dwellers. It’s a place that a larger group may all be alright with but you wouldn’t choose for any particular reason.

A famous author once wrote:

“Amid the seeming confusion of our mysterious world , individuals are so nicely adjusted to a system, and systems to one another and to a whole, that, by stepping aside for a moment, a man exposes himself to a fearful risk of losing his place forever”.

Although I’m quite sure this 19th century quote was not meant to predict the Toronto dining scene in 2013, I think there are certain elements which are highly applicable. Today’s restaurants cannot be everything to everybody. You can’t be farm to table, nose to tail, organic, foodie-friendly, fine dining and a speakeasy (mentioned on their twitter account and a term coined in 1889 referring to an illegal alcohol establishment) all in one. If you don’t identify who you are, you will be forgettable amongst the many eateries lining the surrounding streets. Hawthorne’s success will hinge on its ability to fit in, without confusion, to a diverse and finicky Toronto dining crowd, a concept ironically penned in 1835 by American author and namesake Nathaniel Hawthorne.

Tag: drink

Rage Against the Machine- July 25, 2022- Keybank Centre- Buffalo, New York

Review:Toronto:Downtown:Hawthorne Food and Drink