oysters – Page 2 – Fare..Eat..Ales

Review:Toronto:Midtown:L’Avenue

August 31, 2013August 31, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

A business meeting brought me midtown for dinner. Midtown is a place where restaurants are restaurants and not political statements or abstract expressions of social activism. You can get an appetizer, main and dessert for a decent price without the need for an explanation about the difference between a starter, small plate or large plate. The menus tend to be simple and the decor looks like a restaurants and not like Johnny’s auto shop. Plus, you can have a conversation without having Radioactive by the Imagination Dragons blasting or listening to Run DMC remind me about footwear:

Now the Adidas I possess for one man is rare
myself homeboy got 50 pair
got blue and black cause I like to chill
and yellow and green when it’s time to get ill
got a pair that I wear when I’m playin ball
with the heal inside make me 10 feet tall

(This is no crack at Run DMC. I’d just as upset if Locked in the Trunk of a Car by the Tragically Hip were blasting in my ear).

Unlike it’s name, L’Avenue is a smallish bistro on Bayview, not Avenue. It’s easy to miss with its quaint front; a freckle of the mosaic that makes up the Leaside neighbourhood. Like the name suggests, it focuses on french style cooking, although updated with lighter, fresher techniques and local, seasonal ingredients. There is an fairly extensive and reasonably priced list of red and white wines available (many bottles are in the 35-50 dollar range) from a diversity of regions, Krombacher (Pils and Dark) on tap and a spattering of local and world renowned beer included a gluten-free choice as well

This night featured an oyster special which was served on a cloud of salty meringue. They were fresh and meaty and seasoned nicely although I’m always a fan of a little heat on the side.

For my hors d’oeuvres (or appetizers for the anglophone), I opted for sweetbreads in a promise to exchange some of them for the bone marrow at the table. Sometimes sweetbreads run the risk over being overly greasy or gritty. The chef avoided both and offered a simple dish atop fragrant streaks of coulis. The marrow was also served in it’s fundamental form, simple seasoned with some herbs and bread crumbs to add some crunch.

Our table’s family style commitment continued with an array of entrees which included the Fried Chicken “a la Basque”, Catalan Seafood Stew “Zarzuela” and a duck feature (we played rock paper and scissors to actually determine who would order the latter). In summary, the execution of each dish was spot on. The fried chicken was moist, the duck a beautiful medium rare and the scallop had a perfect char which housed a glistening white interior. Instead of relying on traditional french flavours such as ummm…butter, the chicken and seafood stew (as the names suggest) were infused with Spanish flavours including tomato and saffron respectively. The duck was a bit more traditional but the addition of rhubarb was stellar and a testament to their commitment to use seasonal ingredients.

Duck Feature (mmm....Rhubarb) — Duck Feature (mmm….Rhubarb)

Here’s an interesting fact. The pavlova dessert was named after the Russian dancer Anna Pavlova (God, I love wikipedia). You would think that a dish with meringue as its foundation would have European origins, but in fact Pavlova is a creation of culinary juggernaut New Zealand (although Australia also tries to lay claim, possibly fueling the bitter Rugby rivalry which exists to this day). It was presented on a plate and with a style reminiscent of tea at Gramma’s on Sunday. Let’s call it an endearing cheesiness. Like the dishes before, it was well executed with a twist, in this case a tart passion fruit custard.

My Take

Calling L’Avenue a french bistro is a bit of a misnomer. Instead of small rich portions served in the most pretentious manner, the chefs invite Basque and Catalan flavours into many of the dishes and serve hearty portions in the midst of a casual environment.

L’Avenue bistro is like a good nap. It’s not the most exciting thing but it is refreshing and satisfying. You get Egyptian cotton sheets and a small mint on your fluffed pillow iwhile relaxing as soft music senerades you in the background. They adhere to a theme of comfort and tradition instead of throwing down an air mattress and trying to convince you it’s cool to sleep on it while blasting 2 Live Crew and then retweeting it when you do.

Review:Vancouver:Downtown:The Fish Shack

August 13, 2013August 13, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

It was honestly an internet search and a restaurant within walking distance that brought me to the Fish Shack. After seeing it was a creation of the Glowbal group, I was sure it would be far from a shack and even have a few of the gimmicks this restaurant group is renowned for. The last Glowbal restaurant I went to was Black and Blue. It had a beautiful decor, with a classic steakhouse setup and highlighted by a 15 foot high meat locker. I figured the Fish Shack would be the same.

I wasn’t far off. The decor is reminiscent of a wooden fishing shack. Nets hang throughout the place and pictures of fish with interesting trivia line the wall. It’s bright and clean and the busy waitstaff have a casual look and attitude. The air is filled with the aroma of shellfish, likely a combination of the bar side shellfish steamer and the adjacent table ordering the fisherman’s catch, a Cornucopia of mixed seafood strewn across the table in a free for all.

The beer selection is pretty lame, dominated by Molson products. The Whister Bear Paw Honey Lager is a bit of a redemption. This sad reality led me to the Caesar fleet featuring four offerings laced with vodka, gin, whisky and tequila. I went vodka, a pretty standard Caesar garnished with prawn and pepperoni. It was a good Caesar and definitely better than a Coors light.

I like gimmicks, so I opted for buck a shuck oysters (Light house were featured) and mussels and clams fresh from the steamer. The oysters were fresh and a great deal for four bucks. The $15 steamed shellfish prepared classic style (wine, garlic , shallots and herbs) were good but didn’t rival the mussels at Chambar or the clams at the Pike market in Seattle which were pulled from ocean just minutes away in Puget Sound.

For the main, the halibut was calling my name. Although priced significantly higher than the other fish and chips options, I remembered my experience at Dandelion in Philadelphia and Blue Water cafe in San Diego and hoped for the same in Vancouver. It was a bit flimsy and although all the components were quite good, nothing was remarkable. The batter was not greasy and had a pleasant taste while the fish maintained a good integrity and decent moistness. The tartar sauce and fries were pretty classic and the creamy horseradish slaw was colourful to look at but didn’t have as much bite as I wanted.

I last had the brussel sprouts at Black and Blue last year and ordered them again. I was equally impressed, especially when I hit them with a squirt of hot sauce.

There’s a small dessert menu featuring cheesecake, apple berry crumble and sticky toffee pudding, all for $8.50. Some may argue you don’t need anymore than that. I opted for the latter and was presented with a pretty decent offering. The cake was moist, partially helped by the plentiful pool of sauce it sat in. The traditional chantilly cream and somewhat unorthodox berries were a good finishing touch.

My Take

The fish shack is kind of like Red Lobster, except for people under the age of 65. Both have a bad beer selection and shrimp garnished Caesars. Both are decorated with fish and fish paraphernalia. Both have cheesy slogans like “We sea food differently” and “hook it and cook it”. One can indulge on an array of seafood with the shack’s Fisherman’s catch or Red Lobster’s Ultimate feast, a choice from the fresh daily fresh fish list or non-sea signatures like cheddar bay biscuits (RL) or brussel sprouts (FS). Both even have a New York style cheesecake for dessert.

The fish shack is pretty; pretty decor and pretty good food. It’s filled with the little gimmicks like bar side steamers that make the Glowbal group what it is. . Although none of the dishes blew my mind, the execution of the food was acceptable. and the vibe reeked a little of fish and little of hip. So send Gramma to Red Lobster and suck back some west coast buck a shuck oysters before 6 pm at the fish shack (trust me, Gramma and oysters don’t mix). Afterwards, you can hear about the nice fish and that dessert cake like Gladys used to make.

As for slogans, I kinda like this one from a famous book that pretty much says it all:

“Fish,” he said, “I love you and respect you very much. But I will kill you dead before this day ends.”
― Ernest Hemingway, The Old Man and the Sea

“Catchy”, isn’t it?

Review:Toronto:Little Italy/Portugal Village:Rock Lobster

January 26, 2013January 26, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

As far as twitter goes, Rock Lobster is a busy community. Every night I get numerous tweets and retweets from happy people raving about their recent experience. I must admit I was quite excited for a piece of the action. Walking through the door, I was looking for a place to happen and was greeted by three friendly, plaid wearing barkeeps who quickly sat me at the bar. Looking around, I felt like I was an extra in a Tragically Hip video. Nostalgic Canadian paraphernalia filled the walls and the menu followed suit, offering a near coast to coast menu. It only made sense to salute the flag and partake in the cross country adventure.

Must

Nothing signifies the start a Canadian road trip like a classic caesar. It followed all the rules including celery and steak spice with the luxury of half a lobster tail for 12 bucks. It wasn’t bland nor watery and didn’t require a fire in the hole warning either. It was yummy and spicy and good. The tail didn’t hurt either.

Ironically, the best item on the menu wasn’t lobster. A trip over the hundredth meridian offered a grilled flank steak served with homemade hickory sticks, a soft yolked duck egg and a side of homemade tangy dipping sauce for $14. The steak was grilled to absolute perfection. The egg was served with a shiny, runny yellow which would trickle down onto the crispy and smoky version of delicious of the Canadian classic snack. Despite the richness of each of the ingredients it was far from a greasy jungle; I would describe it more as hearty small plate presented with skill and determination….and grace, too.

Flank Steak with Hickory Sticks and Duck Egg

I stayed out west for my second drink of the night. I ordered an “Iginla Fizz”, a $10 modern spin on a rye and ginger. It was simple but delicious. Maybe it was the drink itself or the fact that I’ve always felt so hard done by as a Calgary fan and drinking a cocktail named after the Flames captain in Leafs nation was final and just retribution for the Gary Leeman/Doug Gilmour trade.

One of the showcases of Rock Lobster is a cooler displaying the restaurant’s namesake as well as other things born in the water. The fresh PEI malpeque oysters drew my attention, especially at a price of two and a quarter each. One of the bartenders pulled three out, shucked them and served with all the fixings including fresh horseradish she ground with a box grater right at the bar. It was a great offering other than the mignonette sauce, which I found a little off. She didn’t know for sure what she regularly shucks in a shift but figured she may do a 20o plus on a good night.

I was told the lobster roll is the mainstay of the restaurant concept itself. It had all the fireworks of the classic east coast sandwich. Chunks of lobster were coated in a rich but not overbearing mayo and served on a fresh and lightly toasted roll. Normally served with fries and a McClure’s pickle, I asked if they could sub the fries and they gladly doubled the pickle. This may not sound that exciting, but these pickles have been considered some of the best in the business for a long time running.

Maybe

Rock Lobster’s Quebec contribution was a lobster poutine. The fresh fries hit the mark, the cheese curds were authentic but the bisque gravy fell a bit short. Although full of flavour, the bisque was a little scarce and served luke warm which prevented the heart of the melt, a bit of a cardinal sin in the poutine world. I know it didn’t blow my mind but I couldn’t figure out if it left me yawning or snarling.

I have a confession. One of the twitter feeds bragged about diners enjoying whale tails which left me wondering if this was a taboo spin on the Parkdale offal movement. Much to my relief, the “whale tail” was instead a spin on the classic Canadian beaver tail pastry. It was a crispy and nicely presented, coated in cinnamon sugar and served on a chuck of tree with a shaker of maple sugar. It came with a few irrelevant trickles of creme anglaise. It was good enough but wasn’t too hard puttin’ down.

My Take

Rock Lobster has rapidly become a lionized addition to the Ossington strip. The service was friendly, attentive and didn’t take forever. I can’t explain the exact feeling, but it has a modern spirit that so many foodies crave as much as the grub itself. The ironic coupling of extensive twitter hype with a certain degree of secrecy, the dark canuck ambiance and most importantly the solid execution of a cross-section of Canadian classics from hickory sticks to lobster tails define this eatery as a pelagic pinnacle as opposed to a nautical disaster.

Review:Toronto:Downtown:Richmond Station

November 2, 2012November 3, 2012 spennyrd1 Comment

Richmond Station posts the following message on their urbanspoon page: “Richmond Station is a stopping place, a bustling neighbourhood restaurant in the downtown core. We are committed to delicious food and excellent hospitality.” A simple message but one forgotten by many eateries in the area.

Upon arriving for my reservation, I was brought to a table with a great view of the open kitchen. Unlike some other restaurants which boast retro soda coolers or toque-wearing moose heads, the decor is a simple white tile, black accents and classy hardwood tables. I was impressed with the layout of the chef’s table which seats about 8 people. The wait staff were equally as classy, dressed in black. Even the chefs were traditionally dressed, donning crisp whites and black aprons.

richmond kitchen — Richmond’s open kitchen with chef’s rail.

The hostess was very friendly, sat me quickly, provided a menu and I ordered a fantastic modernized version of a whisky old-fashioned cocktail at her recommendation. The waiter arrived shortly after and immediately asked me my name which he used for the remainder of the night. His service was impeccable, making menu recommendations while confidently explaining the restaurants concepts and philosophies. He seemed by my side all night, filling my water glass repeatedly and often explaining the station’s journey to date.

richmond cocktail — Old-Fashioned Cocktail

Excellent hospitality…check.

Now the food.

Must

The featured New Brunswick oysters were fresh and shucked without a flaw. The presentation was like a visual aphrodisiac, served on a bed of ice with fresh horseradish and house made condiments including a tangy mignonette, fresh marinara and spicy hot sauce. I witnessed a definite devotion to “excellent hospitality” from the kitchen when the lady beside me still received all of the accompaniments when ordering a single oyster. At $3.5 each, there may be a temptation to break the bank of these tasty critters even before tackling the main menu.

richmnd oysters — Oysters with condiments

I received a lesson in what a real lobster bisque is supposed to taste like. Ignoring the trend to call any soup a bisque because it sounds better, Carl Heinrich’s team reverts to old school French methods, producing a thin but flavourful broth emulsified with classic ingredients such as cream and seasoned with tarragon. The result was a marriage of tantalizing flavours and although it did start to separate a bit toward the end, most will easily consume the majority beforehand.

Keep an eye on the blackboard. On this night there was a duck breast served on a braised duck leg. The shredded leg was thoroughly cooked but still tender while the breast was sliced a perfect medium rare. Both cuts were graced with a flavourful sauce and served with some vibrant greens. This dish may answer the old question..am I a breast man or a leg man? Based on this dish, my answer is both. Then again, maybe it’s the oysters talking.

Maybe

Also on the blackboard was a 6 oz beef offering for $26. Beef is usually a safe bet and Richmond Station was no exception. The seasoned beef had a beautiful sear and was sliced medium rare but was difficult to see amidst the jungle of greens covering the perfectly cooked steak. The meat itself had a fantastic flavour but I wasn’t fond of the bed of overly buttered chopped brussel sprouts which laid the foundation for the beef, which just made the already rich tasting beef taste even richer.

richmond steak — Beef Special (see blackboard)

Mundane

The regular menu features a starter section highlighted by a $13 lobster cocktail. Lose any premonition of a tall glass overflowing with fresh, chunky lobster. Instead, expect a more measly presentation of 4 deep-fried lobster pieces served on a piece of lettuce with a dollop of cocktail sauce. Sharing means you’ll only get two (or maybe three if you can mildly distract your table mate). If you’re going to go fishing at Richmond Station, spend $14 and get 4 oysters instead of these land-battered crustaceans.

My Take

Richmond Station’s urbanspoon proclamation claim holds true lead by a well-trained, courteous staff and a trendy menu with classic French influence overseen by a proven champion in Carl Heinrich (who even came out to ask how the meal was). The classic decor follows suit, characterized by a modern but bourgeois surrounding reminiscent of the style of Candice Olson as opposed to Red Green, Bruce Wayne or Beetlejuice. In the end, both the concept and the location create a perfect storm, appealing to celebrity chef chasers, downtown dwellers, floating foodies and those who appreciate french inspired food without the confines of bistros adorning white table linen and equally stuffy service. I’ll come by again when they open for lunch, but for now I don’t mind this train stop along my voyage in search of culinary pearls.

The 39 year-old Virgin: Adventures in Barcelona.

October 20, 2012October 21, 2012 spennyrdLeave a comment

Yes, this is my first trip to Europe as I wasn’t privy to travel in my younger years. So, after almost 4 decades, I crossed the Atlantic, landing in Barcelona, Spain. Having spent the better part of two days there, I made the following observations:

1. People in Spain walk slow.
2. Wifi is difficult to find.
3. Everybody wears scarves.
4. A beer and sandwich combo is cheaper than a soda and sandwich combo at the airport.
5. The architecture is fantastic.
6. You need your room key to turn on your lights.
7. You can buy almost anything on the street including beer, umbrellas, street food, flowers etc.
8.The food is pretty good.

Since this is a food blog, I will focus on the latter. The food choices are endless. Every nook and cranny is jammed with small eateries, each promising a special variety of decor, personality and of course, food. The restaurants range from off the menu to choosing off a tray under a pane of glass. I can best describe it as simple. No garnish, no explanation, just the food.

A Tale of Two Tapas.

Ciudad Condal had a long wait but I was seated within 30 minutes.

Their flauta was probably the simplest yet the best thing I ate in the two days I was in Barcelona. Simply, it’s chorizo inside a small loaf of bread for about three euros. The crunch of the bread followed by the rich chorizo was perfect. I put a little machego cheese inside my second one which added some saltiness as well.

The patatas bravas are Spain’s version of poutine. They are basically potatoes covered in a creamy aioli and hot sauce. Also of honourable mention were the fried Padron peppers, simply prepared with salt and olive oil. The nature of these peppers are generally mild but a few on the plate pack a hot punch, leading to the term “Unos Picans Otros No” meaning some are hot, some are not. I was lucky to get a few biters. A great dish was the potatoes topped with fried eggs (Huevos Cabreados). It is a simple but delicious dish; matchstick fried potatoes topped with soft fried eggs cut table side.

I’m a huge flan fan. The creamy spanish flan was a nice ending and was not overly sweet despite the abundant caramelized sugar.

The service was fast, friendly and efficient.

egg potato — Huevos Cabreados (Matchstick Potatoes with Egg-Yum)

I’m always drawn by places with good reputations and high Zagat ratings. Tapas 24 fit the category in both regards. Much different than Ciudad Condal, Tapas 24 is situated in a basement just off the beaten path of the tourist section. It was about 11 pm and the place was packed. When I was seated I noticed a much smaller, yet more expensive menu than Ciudad. It was certainly more run down but was filled with character. I was seated at the bar so I could see the open kitchen which was run old school, with orders called from paper tickets stuck on magnetic boards and run like a well-oiled machine.

I started with the standard patatas bravas which were shaped like fries and looked a bit a bit dismal compared to the chunky potatoes at Ciudad. It was followed by the bikini (a bit of an ironic name given it’s a grilled ham and cheese sandwich). In this case if was flavoured with some shaved black truffle which was subtle as opposed to overpowering (it’s a fine line when it come to truffle). However, it was a bit imbalanced since the smoked ham I so enjoy was drowned out by the buffalo mozzarella. It was basically a nine Euro fancy grilled cheese. I finished with calamares (squid) recommended by a guy who looked and dressed like he should don a red cape and run away from bulls. It was simply presented, seasoned with olive oil and when mixed with the bitter, leaking squid ink provided a good balance. Not sure it was worth 16 euro, but it was certainly unique.

squid t24 — Tapas 24 Calamares (Baby Squid)

I didn’t realize Spain would have such good ice cream. In particular was a place called Belgious. Situated in what seemed to be a shady back alley along the goth section of the ramblas (maybe it was also the fact it was past midnight), my broken Spanish saw the word exotic and ice cream together and I was sold. I was able to sample a number of flavours including gin and tonic, szechuan pepper, curry and cannibus..yes cannibus. I ended up settling on a combination of thyme (my favourite spice) and Modena vinegar with raspberries. Delish! No picture though..a bit too shady to pull the Blackberry out.

On another note, there are great markets in Barcelona. I managed to visit two during my travels. La Concepcio is located not far from downtown Barcelona. It’s a smaller market with a wonderful seafood selection (the meat and chicken isn’t bad either) . In fact, you don’t even smell the fish despite the fact you’re surrounded by it. Both offered a wide variety of meats, chicken and some of the best fish I have ever seen. La Boqueria is perhaps the most well-known and busiest market and was certainly bustling when I was there. Once again, the seafood was amazing, complete with huge oysters and fresh fish butchered on the spot. There was a variety of prepared foods such squid on a skewer and fresh juices. I quenched my palate with a mango coconut juice for a couple of euros.

squid on stick — Squid on a Skewer at the Market

I hit the George Payne bar as well which offers great soccer, confusing drink specials and not so good food.

Review: Toronto: Queen East- Table 17

August 6, 2012August 7, 2012 spennyrd1 Comment

Set in the middle of the busy Queen East dining district, it meets all the criteria for the neighborhood…hipster feel (including the fact that there is a rooster as their logo yet not an ounce of chicken on the menu…so witty), small menu, plaid shirts and an iota of pretension, but hell, they do take reservations. After being seated, we were required to wait quite a while for a drink order. That being said, the drink list is excellent with a small but solid draught beer selection (including my beloved Stonehammer from Guelph), a decent wine selection and some unique cocktails. In particular a fresh rhubarb mojito was the drink special. Quite nice.

The staff were happy to recommend various dishes and the table settled for a mix. They even were able to fulfil my pickle fetish with a side of homemade minis. Had a chance to try a few dishes….

Must

The venison polenta was it fantastic. Even better, a chef arrives tableside to finish the dish with the meat mixture while explaining the process he used to prepare it. Great touch.

Duck confit was terrific. Cooked well with most of the fat rendered out and the sides (lentils) complimented the dish well.

The beef tartare was fresh, simply prepared, seasoned well and portioned heartily.

Oysters were fresh and well-presented.

Maybe

Diver scallops were perfectly cooked although I was not fond of the accompanying sauce. It had a medicinal note to it which I felt drown the sweet taste of the scallop a bit.

Brussel sprouts and potatoes were rich. May be difficult for a vegetarian since aninaml fat seems to be a mandate.

Had the Panna Cotta for dessert and rhubarb dessert for the table, neither of which are on the menu anymore. Neither were mind-blowing but were decent.

Mundane

Steak was average.

My Take

All in all an enjoyable dining experience. The environment was a bit distant and not overly welcomming despite the trendy decor. Food was solid and the value was there. Do the polenta, do the duck and if don’t have room for dessert, that’s quite ok.