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Chicago: Day 6: White Palace and Black Sabbath

August 25, 2013August 25, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

My final day in Chicago was a race to see how many DDDs I could hit before my 2 pm flight. After a strategic session with a map, I determined a route that would allow me to hit three; two within walking distance and one on the way to O’Hare.

Having spent most of my time in Chicago on either the Magnificant Mile, the convention centre or West Randolph, it was nice to get off the beaten path a bit. My first stop was the White Palace Grill. Opened in 1939, this place is the traditional 24 hour American diner. It has all the classics, from eggs to waffles to Mexican breakfast platters. I sat at the counter and joined the show as one of the many cast and characters of the Chicago scene. A very pleasant waitress quickly came to my rescue, offering me the large menu and a newspaper which I much appreciated. It’s amazing how out of touch one falls when stuck in a conference for 4 or 5 days. I scanned the menu and ordered a coffee, some strawberry banana french toast with a side of bacon and some grits to try.

The banter in the place was primarily focused on the Hawks Stanley cup win the night before. People were walking in and out proudly donning T-shirts and jerseys. There seems to be a trend among couples to walk around Chicago wearing matching shirts…it’s rather endearing. I was rather amused when another waitress checked in to start working. I think her name was “Happy” or something like that. If so, the name fit her personality and I quite enjoyed listening to the conversations and laughter that erupted during my breakfast.

Without much of a wait, breakfast arrived. The strawberry sauce was on the side, so some assembly was required. It was classic french toast with classic toppings. I love grits and I wasn’t disappointment by the Palace’s butter laden offering.

Strawberry Banana French Toast sans strawberry

MMMM...bacon and grits. — MMMM…bacon and grits.

My Take

White Palace grill is an all American 24 hour diner. It has all the attributes of a good experience; good food, good service and good decor. Although it may not top the Zagat guide, it’s a place where you eat lots and leave feeling happy, happy, happy.

Verdict: 4 Guyz

Stop number two was Panzanno’s Italian Market which was about a 10 minute walk from White Palace. During this time, I got to admire some of Chicago’s downtown architecture from afar while walking over the West Roosevelt bridge. The bridge itself is quite interesting. I snapped a pic of one of the numerous icons which lined the street. I did a quick internet search to find out the meaning of these depictions but came up empty.

Despite the name, I wouldn’t call Panozzo’s a market. True, they sell a small array of pastas and Italian staples, but the main attraction is the deli and take out sandwiches. There are a few “old school favorites” but the signatures are the crescentine sandwiches. Like the name suggests, they are crescent shaped sandwiches stuffed with all sorts of delicious fare.

I ordered two sandwiches to go; the porchetta crescentine and the meatball sandwich. It was hot as hell outside, so I was also drawn to the ice cream freezer which was sporting an array of Zarlengo’s Gelato. There was an article hanging on the wall touting the frozen treats, so I grabbed a Rum and Raisin for the walk back to the mile. It was smooth and creamy with lots of raisins and lots of rum flavour filled the cup.

Zarlengo's Rum and Raisin Gelato — Zarlengo’s Rum and Raisin Gelato

I like when thought is put into things, even simple things. Sometimes the difference between a good sandwich and a great sandwich is one ingredient. There is always the opportunity to push the boundaries just a little and I feel Panozzo’s does that. Both sandwiches were delicious. I think the pickled fennel and chilis in the porchetta and meatball respectively added enough to make these sandwiches stand out. The bread was fresh and the fillings were ample.

My Take

Although the decor is a little barren and the vibe a little flat the sandwiches were delicious. The offering of Zalengo’s at Panozzo’s is another example of the comradery that exists between restaurants and other vendors in Chicago. Like Metropolis coffee and Graham Elliot’s eateries, it’s a win-win and refreshing concept.

Verdict- 4 Guyz

After I devoured the gelato I walked through the park, took a few pictures of Soldier field from afar, made a wish in a fountain, admired some more Chicago architecture and got soaked in a short but intense downpour. I did a quick change into some dry clothes, repacked, hailed a cab and proceeded to my third DDD of the day, Kuma’s Corner, which is located on the way to O’Hare.

Kuma’s corner prides itself on a fantastic concept; the fusion of burgers and head banging metal. This is not a superficial claim. Everything from the decor to the staff to the name of the burgers scream the theme. I see metal this way….stubborn and abrasive on the outside but with a core of justice and determination in the middle. Take their beer philosophy for example. One may attribute the “No Bud and Miller” philosophy to a pretentious and elitist attitude. Consider the possible lyric:

“Drink no Bud, drink no Miller,

I’m a commercial lager killer.”

Sounds a little nasty, but the foundation in rooted in supporting the small guy, a concept as important to the brewing industry as it is for food. To this point, I started with a Three Floyd’s Robert the Bruce Scottish ale on tap and was later hypnotized by a bottle of Apocalypse Cow housed within one of the the many bar fridges and brewed by the same Indiana brewery. Although it came with a $20 charge, it was a fantastic IPA . Rich and citrusy, almost sour and intensely hoppy , it was a wonderful complement to the burger.

The menu itself is burger-centric with a spattering of bar food available as well. The three guys beside me were indulging on an order of mac and cheese which looked divine (mind you when does mac and cheese not look divine). There are almost 20 burgers available, each with a combination of standard and not so standard toppings such as avacodo, smoky and spicy cheeses, wing sauce, poached pears and yes, a fried egg. I went Ozzy and ordered the Black Sabbath burger which was a patty seasoned with blackening seasoning, spicy jack, chili and red onion. I chose a salad as the side which turned out to be pretty good. My colleague went with the burger of the month which in this case was the Stranglehold, an 8 oz buffalo patty garnished with aged cheddar, arugula and habanero mustard.

There’s a whole lotta burger. The bun was delicious and the toppings worked well together. I had a nibble of my colleagues bison burger which hit the mark as well. If anything, I wish there was a little more liberty to choose the wellness of the burger because a patty cooked medium would have been over the top. Instead, the patty was a bit on the dry side although far from inedible.

My Take

Kuma’s concept is a fun one. I may have seemed out of place hauling a week’s worth of luggage into this tiny joint and sitting among biker types and foodies who were embryos or twinkles in their father’s eyes when the majority of the metal playing in the background came out. Needless to say, I received the same rugged yet considerate service despite the fact I don’t sport a tattoo, two inch spacers or a permanent chip on my shoulder. The food was good, the gimmick works and the beer selection was amazing.

The first line of Metallica’s Fuel is “Gimme fuel, gimme fire, gimme that which I desire”. Big burgers, plenty of local beer and whisky on tap do just that.

Verdict- 4 Guyz

Review:Toronto:King West:Valdez

August 22, 2013August 23, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

It can be argued that Origin may have been the “origin” of the current small plate trend in Toronto. A couple of years and two new Origins later, Valdez opened. The link is Steve Gonzalez. A contestant on the first Top Chef Canada, he has followed the leads of later contestants Carl Heinrich and Ryan Gallagher, who left previous posts at established Toronto eateries to gamble on new ones. Steve went from chef de cuisine at Origin to the proprietor of Valdez, a King Street Latin street food eatery which promises a return to Gonzalez’s Colombian roots and, of course, a sharing and small plate concept.

The decor is a mix of a saloon and a Mexican cantina. A large wooden bar is showcased in a long but narrow space filled with bright chairs and worn tables, both painted with reds and blues and greens. A large bar graces one wall of the long but narrow dining room. Coffee sack, art and other paraphernalia grace the walls of this stylish abode.

There is an array of standard cocktails (and a few crazy ones), beer and wine. I opted for a Tecate, which was presented in psuedo-michelada style. Instead of a glass with lime juice and hot sauce (among other things), a lime wedge and a squeeze of hot sauce was strewn along the top of the can. Served glassless, I opted to pop the wedge into the can and drink it like that. I liked the combination although I found it odd that the option for no hot sauce wasn’t offered as I imagine it wouldn’t be for everybody.

The menu is simple, divided into 4 parts; ceviche (self explanatory), stuff (small plate) ,more (bigger plate) and dulce y algo (dessert). Well, maybe the ceviche isn’t so self explanatory. Given the diversity of the choices, I opted for the flight:

There is the traditional “cocktel de camaron” with tomato, citrus, cilantro, chilis and corn nuts. Pretty delicious.

There was the “passion” and “atun japones”, each offering a refreshing twist on tuna (albacore and ahi respectively) by meshing traditional latin and modern Asian flavours such as yuzu, ginger and ponzu. An intriguing twist but something I would expect at one of the numerous izakaya joints at every street corner in town.

The “mixto” was a trio of octopus, mussel and squid bathed in squid ink with some citrus, maize and sweet potato. The ink was the overwhelming flavour, so some will take it or leave it.

The vegan ceviche was a mix of fruit and veggies which included jicama and other latin staples in a simple citrus sauce. Nothing remarkable.

From the “stuff” menu we opted for tradition, ordering the highly touted guac and chips, empandas and chorizo del jefe (sausage). The guac and chips created some controversy at the table. I loved the guac. It had a great texture and was well balanced with citrus and spice. The chips were a combination of plantain, yucca, potato and taro which I thought was ingenious both to the eye and the tongue. The others at the table were more ho-hum about the guac.

The empanadas, on the other hand, were rather disappointing. Offering no flare compared to the rest of the menu, they were rather dry and bland to the extent where the delicious aji sauce which accompanied couldn’t save them.

The chorizo sausage was a bold and delicious addition to the menu. A squeeze of lime provided enough acid to intensify the well seasoned and moist pork sausage. It rivals some of the best I have had in Toronto. The arepas were nice as well.

As for “more”, we decided on two very different dishes; the delicate Giggie’s trout (togarashi+Quinoe+yuzu+mango+avocado+fried shallots) and the more manly Bandeja (seared pork+rice & beans+plantain+fried egg+avocado+arepa). This trout dish was a concert of primarily asian flavours around some beautifully cooked filets. The dainty dish was a bit out of place served in a Mexican saloon but would be palate pleasing for a pescatarian who so happened to tag along for the party.

The bandeja, on the other hand, was the hardcore latin inspired dish more synonymous with the name Valdez. Bandeja simply means platter, but I would be prone to rename this bandeja buena mierda. Hidden beneath a perfectly cooked sunny side up egg was rice, beans, avocado, arepas and most importantly, tender and juicy pork. With each bite you got a little more or a little less of each component but each was an adventure in Latin America cuisine. No togarashi, no yuzu (although I love the damn stuff), and no ponzu. Just simple, flavourful food presented with simplicity and respect.

My Take

Perhaps the word “Latasian” street food may be a better description of the food served at Valdez. Although traditional Central and South American dishes are the foundation of the menu, the are a number laced with Asian flavours. The chips and guac and bandeja stole the show with the chorizo sausage taking honorable mention. I was less impressed with the ceviche and trout, perhaps because my brain was programmed to consume the simple and standard flavours of Latin cuisine as opposed to those I can get at a hundred places elsewhere. The empanadas were a bit of a bust minus the delicious aji sauce. I enjoyed the Tecate, served psuedo-michelada style, from both a nostalgic and taste perspective.

The decor and vibe is fun, trendy and even a bit dangerous. I was reminded a bit of the bar scene from Robert Rodriguez’s “From Dusk to Dawn”. George Clooney and Quentin Tarantino wannabees line the bar except in this case, samurai sword wielding ninjas names Yuzu, Togarashi and Tobiko enter the scene to join the locals in a battle against the blood hungry vampires looking for a late night snack. Ok, that may be a bit much, but if Steve Gonzalez can offer fried rice and frijoles, I can use my imagination just the same.

Trying out for Masterchef Canada: My journey for the elusive apron

August 20, 2013August 23, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

I decided to test my luck by trying out for the Masterchef open casting a little while back. I watch the US show and often wondered what it would be like to stand face to face with Joe Bastianich and watch his blood boil after I called him a mama’s boy and prepared for a cast iron pan to the side of the head (or at least a good tongue lashing and that ridiculous stare). I also dreamed of witnessing Graham Elliot piercing a perfectly cooked poached egg yolk from up close and watch him savour the flavour while staring intently toward the roof as he chewed. Finally, I wanted to hear Gordon Ramsay up close, referring to everything as the most delicious, freshest (insert food name here) and explain and maybe demonstrate the appropriate means of cooking such food.

On the other hand, let’s be real. The odds that any of these judges do more than make a guest appearance are astronomical. Instead, I anticipate Canadian contestants will be dealt one of the half dozen celebrity chefs which grace the airways (that of course depends on whether Bell’s CTV and the Shaw’s Food Network Canada can play nice in the kitchen). Might we see the likes of Mark McEwen, Lynn Crawford, Chuck Hughes or Anna Olson? Or may we see a new crop of judges, possibly chosen with the same rigor and cookie-cutter approach as the contestants themselves.

One option was sending in an application with a video in advance; the other was just showing up, crossing your fingers and hoping for the best. I put my cinematographic hat on and planned to film myself caressing grape leaves in my back yard in my best seductive voice while explaining how to stuff and serve them. Instead, I ran out of time and just decided to show up on day 2 and roll the die. I decided on street food, choosing to make my Poppin’ shrimp tacos in hopes of showing my knowledge of food trends coupled with some pretty standard culinary skills (I’m planning to post the recipe to my Veg..Eat..Ales blog shorty). I spent a number of hours refining everything from the taco shells to the corn pop coated shrimp to the sauces which would slathered on top of the finished dish.

I live 2 hours away from the tryouts, so I arranged to stay at a buddy’s place, figuring I could awake at the crack of dawn and compile a winning dish with plenty of time. The night before I hunted Kensington and Chinatown for an Ontario grown cabbage and fresh shrimp. With the mission accomplished, I grabbed a quick bite at Valdez (review later), got back and crashed, setting the alarm for 4 am, giving myself plenty of time to prep in time for the 7am start.

Different shrimp, different pans and a different stove makes for a different product. I burnt my first four shrimp in seconds. I’m sure I impressed my buddy’s floor mates as I filled his apartment with smoke at 430 am. I eventually figured it out and produced 4 pretty decent looking shrimp. I made the tortillas, fried them and stored them in paper towels to keep moist, mixed the jalapeno lime slaw, packed it all into my cooler and walked over to the open casting a few blocks away. The dish had to be served at room temperature many hours later, so I hoped each component would maintain its integrity. I opted for three small tacos as opposed to a single large one in an effort to showcase the three different sauces I prepared as well as the fact that I made my own tortilla shells from scratch.

I arrived at about 635. Once in line, I received my green wristband marked #43. Shortly after, the line grew longer and I was confident that I would have my turn prior to dusk. I waited patiently and we were soon greeted by the staff to be happy when the cameras came by. Some of us were even given signs like “I want to spoon with Gordon” to rouse the cheers.

Eventually, I was whisked into the hotel and followed a tedious process to get registered, sign my life away and get my mugshot taken. I went from number 43 on a wristband to H6 on a blue sheet and was sent into a holding room with about 100 others to await my fate. The cast of characters ranged from 18 year old aspiring chefs to a guy who look in his 60’s wearing a blue blazer and red converse shoes. At first, most of us held their coolers like they were live organs, unwilling to share any trade secrets (although our food was already prepared) As we warmed up to each other (unlike the food which had to be served at room temperature), we started to divulge stories about ourselves and our dishes. It was surreal. For example, there was:

a stoic, retired RCMP officer who started saying next to nothing, told us countless stories about the police force before, in a authoritative voice, disclosing that he had made blueberry lavender butter tarts as his signature dish.
A self proclaimed bitchy mom who actually became a bitchy mom when everybody started calling her Krissy.
A guy in a lobster shirt who served…..pork tortillas.
A woman who, after realizing the wait was going to be a lot longer than she expected, left only to return 10 minutes later with a fully loaded hot dog from a cart outside the hotel which she proceeded to eat in street meat fashion in front of a hundred, cranky and hungry onlookers.

When your group is finally called you enter what feels likes a steam room and set up your station. By luck of the draw, I was front and centre in row 1. Forty-seven other contestants set up in the same way. The rules were simple. Once the clock started, you had three minutes to plate. So, I mixed the slaw, threw down the shells…two minutes… filled them , topped with shrimp and…..one minute remaining began the final garnish. Before I knew it, the familiar shout of “hands up” filled the room and I was unable to top my tacos with chopped cilantro. Regardless, I was pleased with the dish and got prepared for the judges. After judging we were allowed to snap pictures although all I had was my low resolution blackberry camera.

Poppin' Shrimp tacos with cilantro, avocado and chipotle cream sauce — Poppin’ Shrimp tacos with cilantro, avocado and chipotle cream sauce

The aforementioned blue sheet had my number on one side and the scoring system on the other. Essentially, contestants are judged on taste, appearance, creativity, food knowledge and quality of ingredients. In addition, there was room for judges to add comments about personal stories and aspirations of each of the contestants. The main food judges were the executive producers of Masterchef USA. Other judges included a number involved in the Canadian production. Since I was at the first table, the judges got to me soon. She confirmed my use of homemade tortillas, cut my shrimp to check if it was cooked and asked me if I used three different sauces. I boasted yes, yes and yes. The second judge asked me about the shrimp and I told her about my corn pop coating. She said it sounded that something David Chang would do. That comment alone was like scoring a birdie during a shitty round of golf…anything else didn’t matter.

So, after an extensive judging period in which not a single judge tasted anything I made, deliberations began. It was like waiting for a court decision. My row speculated that the longer it took, the more likely we were to go through. In the meantime, we wandered around the room and admired each other’s dishes. There was chocolate ravioli, ceviches, tartares, a whole pork roast with three sauces, gluten free cupcakes, ribs and all sorts of other things. After about 30 minutes, they returned and instructed us to either return to the holding room for further interviews if we made it or take the walk of shame out the front door and back to the mundane life of cooking without fanfare and pressure if we didn’t.

In the end, I was dismissed. I think the most frustrating part was not having any idea why. Was it my boring story about cooking in a way that will appeal to my kids? Was it the fact I opted for street food as opposed to something more refined? Whatever it was, it wasn’t the taste because..well….they didn’t taste it.

I’m looking forward to the show which should air in January, hoping I recognize a few of the finalists. Although I won’t be one of them, I can tell those around me that I would have made it if my hair was blue , if they actually tasted my food or if I made something more refined (as they smile at you while thinking in their heads.. “You must have been really bad because I can’t believe that schmuck went further than you did). In the end, it was a fun experience and I can honesty say there are no sour grapes, although I may use them should I choose to try out next year. Roasted venison with a sour grape reduction on a bed of quinoa and woodland mushrooms…I like the sound of that.

Review:Toronto:Cabbagetown:Kingyo Izakaya

August 19, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

Kingyo is like a vacation hotspot I never seem to get to. I see pictures of happy people eating pretty food without a care in the world plastered all over twitter. At the same time, I’m cordially invited to the join the party and indulge in the daily specials with the fun employees. I never seem to make it however. Maybe it’s the fact that I’m in town on business by myself and know I wouldn’t scratch the surface of the menu or I just didn’t want to head east all the way to Cabbagetown.

There is a time, however, when you have to ignore the temptation to choose another destination and just book the trip. So I picked up the phone and made a reservation for a friend and I. I announced my intention on twitter and received a resounding Yay! in return. All was set. I even pondered taking an Advil in anticipation of a noise level similar that of Guu or other Izakayas across town.

I haven’t walked much past Jarvis for a while. In fact, I think the last time I strolled down Parliament was when I used to carry groceries back from No Frills while living at Bloor and Jarvis in 1997. I’m not sure much has changed since then…except Kingyo of course. Upon arrival, we swung open the door and entered the oasis, a Japanese eatery carved out of an old brick building. It was buzzing but not overly loud with the main noise coming from a large birthday party. We were offered a choice of a table or the sushi counter facing the kitchen. We chose the latter and our choice was sung out in glee by the waitstaff. A pleasant woman arrived quickly and produced a business card, introducing herself as Akiho. I guess you could call her our travel agent for the evening.

Here are a couple of things to note about Izakayas:

1. The menus are enormous. There’s tofu, seafood, pork, beef, chicken, shellfish, spicy, salty, sour, rice, noodles, raw, cooked or raw and cooked. It’s like trying to choose between puffin watching, bike riding or a wine tour.

2. In many cases, you have to trust the waitstaff. That said, there will probably be one thing you get that you didn’t order. Call it fate…just smile, nod and eat it. It’s sort of like a foreign tour guide…you don’t always understand what they say, but in the end it’s usually an enjoyable experience.

3. Don’t be alarmed by excessive happiness or singing. You are not on Just for Laughs, in a broadway musical or expected to join a flash mob to Styx’s Mr. Roboto. It’s part of the experience…like salsa dancing on the deck of a cruise ship.

So, after examining the menu like we were studying for an SAT, the ordering began…

I love yuzu and a good gin and tonic. The three together were an automatic choice for a starting cocktail. It was presented without bells and whistles like umbrellas or lotus flowers. I sucked it back pretty quick, a testament to a good drink. Not a bad price either.

The first dish was tako wasabi, It was served beautifully on a stone plate with seaweed paper and a wooden well that Tinkerbell makes wishes in. If you don’t like wasabi, don’t order this. I’m not sure if the request for half cooked and half raw octopus was heard because it seemed all raw but it didn’t matter. It was a delicious dish.

I can’t turn down pickles…or pickels as it was spelled on the menu. Regardless, the pickles were presented nicely. A cute trio of onion, daikon radish and squash were presented in three distinct ways. Although each may not appeal to everybody, it was like a buffet in which at least one would appease any palate.

Since there were only two of us, the 3 kind assortment of sashimi made the most sense. I have seen the phenomenal presentation of the sashimi on other food reviews, so I was looking forward to a little visual magic. The plain, white bowl was a bit disappointing (it was like seeing a great hotel on their website only to find the real room a little drab). Maybe it was because I cheaped out and only ordered the three kind as apposed to 5 or 7. Although pricy, the sashimi, was delicious. a mix of delicacies stretching the pacific from BC to Hawaii to Japan.

Sashimi- 3 Kind Assortment 25.00 — Sashimi- 3 Kind Assortment
25.00

Next was the red tuna & black tiger prawn avocado tartar. It tasted exactly how it sounded. The sweet house sauce was a great touch, adding an unorthodox dimension to a normally rich and buttery dish. There was a substantial amount of tartar for the 4 garlic crisps..maybe a few rice crackers or other mediums of transfer would have been a practical touch.

Red tuna & Black tiger prawn avocado tartar $10.80

When it came to the meat, I was intrigued by the stone grilled beef tongue because it required me to cook it myself. Served with lemon, a hot sauce and and a savory oil, it requires you to slap some raw tongue on a hot stone and listen to the sizzle. The whole cooking process took less than 30 seconds (see below for my simple three step instructional). It was fun and delicious and each of the condiments added a contrasting sensory dimension to the salty meat.

Stone Grilled Beef Tongue $10.20- Step 1

Stone Grilled Beef Tongue- Done! — Stone Grilled Beef Tongue- Part 3

For those who like sizzle but not a little tongue, the stone bowl seafood sea urchin don is a smart choice. served with an array of seafood including prawn, squid, scallop and salmon roe. After presenting the attractive dish, the waitress mixed it for us as it sizzled against the bowl. The suggestion was to let it sit for a while so the rice could caramelize a bit. In the end, it’s a decent dish with a variety of texture and tastes, although with the ingredients, I expected a bit more of a pop.

Stone Bowl Seafood Sea Urchin Don $13.80

Stone Bowl Seafood Sea Urchin Don- Mixed

By this time I needed another drink so I ordered the signature gold fish cocktail. I enjoyed it…refreshing with a bit of a kick. As with the yuzu gin and tonic, I do appreciate $8 cocktails in this world of the numerous double digit offerings by other establishments.

The last dish was the Spicy Chopped Tuna Mango Roll. It’s inevitable that I order a spicy tuna roll every time I visit a place that offers sushi. Based on the rest of the menu, I wasn’t surprised to see that these rolls had a twist. The spice was moderate and tuna was roughly chopped to protect it’s delicate texture and taste, The tobiko was a appropriate, salty touch. The mango was fresh, bright and sweet but a bit overwhelming against the rest of the roll.

Japanese restaurants and good dessert can rarely be mentioned in the same sentence. but not all offer “famous” almond tofu. Touched with a cap of jasmine syrup and a belt of tart berry sauce, it had a silky texture and great flavour balance. The key was digging down to the bottom to experience all the complementing flavours in one bite.

The final touch was a couple of frozen grapes hidden among yellow flowers in a tiny vase. Perhaps picked by Tinkerbell or Pollyanna, they were a final reminder of the attention to detail and artistic flare that Kingyo prides themselves on.

My Take

The izakaya movement has hit Toronto, leading to a plethora of interpretations. Some have taken the boisterous, karaoke route and others have chosen to go down the route of creating dishes that look straight from travel brochures. Kingyo opted for the latter and attempted to create an oasis in an otherwise rustic and some would argue rundown and eccentric part of Toronto. Akiho brought us on a tour of wishing wells, hot rocks and bright flowers (although she did disappear for a bit). In a world of all you can eat sushi menus similar to all inclusive vacations, Kingyo offers a unique experience filled with good times, fun scenery and good food with enough variety to please meat eaters, pescatarians, vegans and the gluten intolerant alike. Plus, if you’re lucky, you may get serenaded by the wait/kitchen staff or actually spot a fairy hiding behind a mushroom or casting magic wishes in a tiny wooden well.

Review:Vancouver:Downtown:The Fish Shack

August 13, 2013August 13, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

It was honestly an internet search and a restaurant within walking distance that brought me to the Fish Shack. After seeing it was a creation of the Glowbal group, I was sure it would be far from a shack and even have a few of the gimmicks this restaurant group is renowned for. The last Glowbal restaurant I went to was Black and Blue. It had a beautiful decor, with a classic steakhouse setup and highlighted by a 15 foot high meat locker. I figured the Fish Shack would be the same.

I wasn’t far off. The decor is reminiscent of a wooden fishing shack. Nets hang throughout the place and pictures of fish with interesting trivia line the wall. It’s bright and clean and the busy waitstaff have a casual look and attitude. The air is filled with the aroma of shellfish, likely a combination of the bar side shellfish steamer and the adjacent table ordering the fisherman’s catch, a Cornucopia of mixed seafood strewn across the table in a free for all.

The beer selection is pretty lame, dominated by Molson products. The Whister Bear Paw Honey Lager is a bit of a redemption. This sad reality led me to the Caesar fleet featuring four offerings laced with vodka, gin, whisky and tequila. I went vodka, a pretty standard Caesar garnished with prawn and pepperoni. It was a good Caesar and definitely better than a Coors light.

I like gimmicks, so I opted for buck a shuck oysters (Light house were featured) and mussels and clams fresh from the steamer. The oysters were fresh and a great deal for four bucks. The $15 steamed shellfish prepared classic style (wine, garlic , shallots and herbs) were good but didn’t rival the mussels at Chambar or the clams at the Pike market in Seattle which were pulled from ocean just minutes away in Puget Sound.

For the main, the halibut was calling my name. Although priced significantly higher than the other fish and chips options, I remembered my experience at Dandelion in Philadelphia and Blue Water cafe in San Diego and hoped for the same in Vancouver. It was a bit flimsy and although all the components were quite good, nothing was remarkable. The batter was not greasy and had a pleasant taste while the fish maintained a good integrity and decent moistness. The tartar sauce and fries were pretty classic and the creamy horseradish slaw was colourful to look at but didn’t have as much bite as I wanted.

I last had the brussel sprouts at Black and Blue last year and ordered them again. I was equally impressed, especially when I hit them with a squirt of hot sauce.

There’s a small dessert menu featuring cheesecake, apple berry crumble and sticky toffee pudding, all for $8.50. Some may argue you don’t need anymore than that. I opted for the latter and was presented with a pretty decent offering. The cake was moist, partially helped by the plentiful pool of sauce it sat in. The traditional chantilly cream and somewhat unorthodox berries were a good finishing touch.

My Take

The fish shack is kind of like Red Lobster, except for people under the age of 65. Both have a bad beer selection and shrimp garnished Caesars. Both are decorated with fish and fish paraphernalia. Both have cheesy slogans like “We sea food differently” and “hook it and cook it”. One can indulge on an array of seafood with the shack’s Fisherman’s catch or Red Lobster’s Ultimate feast, a choice from the fresh daily fresh fish list or non-sea signatures like cheddar bay biscuits (RL) or brussel sprouts (FS). Both even have a New York style cheesecake for dessert.

The fish shack is pretty; pretty decor and pretty good food. It’s filled with the little gimmicks like bar side steamers that make the Glowbal group what it is. . Although none of the dishes blew my mind, the execution of the food was acceptable. and the vibe reeked a little of fish and little of hip. So send Gramma to Red Lobster and suck back some west coast buck a shuck oysters before 6 pm at the fish shack (trust me, Gramma and oysters don’t mix). Afterwards, you can hear about the nice fish and that dessert cake like Gladys used to make.

As for slogans, I kinda like this one from a famous book that pretty much says it all:

“Fish,” he said, “I love you and respect you very much. But I will kill you dead before this day ends.”
― Ernest Hemingway, The Old Man and the Sea

“Catchy”, isn’t it?

Review:Toronto:Corktown:Gilead Cafe

August 5, 2013August 7, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

I have been trying to get to one of the evening events at Gilead for a while and finally had the chance back in June. It was one of the Friday night wine bars that are periodically run throughout the year,

I was a bit surprised by both the location and the decor at 4 Gilead in Corktown. It’s certainly not your typical wine bar environment, probably because it’s mainly only open for breakfast and lunch. That said, you can’t judge a place by it’s decor, so I forked up ready to indulge on the Jamie Kennedy inspired menu.

After the decor, my second surprise were the clientele. I was easily the youngest patron in the place, maybe because it was 6 pm. I felt like I was at an early bird dinner. Even later, however, there was not the crowd I would have expected for an almost underground one night wine bar experience. Well, except maybe for one jackass who showed up with his date and demanded the door be shut despite the fact it was 35 degrees and subsequently complained about every one of the 6 or 8 drinks he had in a span of an hour.

It only made sense to start with the featured drink, a Fragolina cocktail (wine, strawberry beer and a bit of lime) for $7. It was very average. The featured wines were a couple of Ontario red and whites for $7 a glass.

As I was waiting for a colleague, I ordered the poutine with braised beef and cheddar. The fries were great. The gravy was a bit salty which ended up being a theme for the evening. The beef was tender, the cheese was scarce. In the end, it was decent but not great.

I have an issue paying for bread but I was interested in the highly touted red fife sour dough, so I ordered some with two vegetarian dips for $5. I think they were beet and some kind of hummus. It was also served with a side of a spice mix which was not explained to me. Not clear on the intent of this mix, I used liberally on a piece of bread only to find out it was 90% salt. When I brought this up with the waitress, she scoffed and pointed out “It’s a french thing” and “it should be used sparingly ” on top of the butter. After pointing out there was no butter at the table, I was told I shouldn’t have got it anyway since it’s only served with lunch.

On the heels of asparagus season, I wasn’t surprised to see it on the menu, simply served with a honey vinaigrette. For $7, it was too simple..9 boiled pieces painted with a mediocre dressing. I found the green salad with sorrel dressing a bit better (it had a few radishes and sorrel thrown in) for $7 but the dressing looked and tasted similar to the one used on the asparagus. The beet salad with lentils and feta looked great on the menu but once again has a taste profile not much different than the others.

Asparagus with Honey-Mustard Vinaigrette $7

I was excited to try the pristine poached halibut with curried lobster sauce. Once again it was a disappointment. The halibut has the consistency of that piece of poached egg white that escapes and floats to the top of the pan. It was rather bland and seasoned with large chunks of salt scattered among the bottom of the filet. The lobster curry and bitter greens made the dish salvageable. At least if wasn’t ridiculously priced at $16.

Pristine Poached Halibut with Lobster Curry $16

I’m not really a flourless chocolate cake fan but decided to try it since it was served with a rhubarb reduction and cardamom ice cream, two flavours I happen to love in a dessert. I thought it was well done, especially if you incorporated the sweet ice cream, the bitter sweet cake and the sour reduction all in one bite.

My Take

I was excited to experience this drop-in wine bar, especially with an attractive online menu that featured a nice array of fresh and creative foods developed by one of Toronto’s iconic chefs. Instead, I was treated to an experience that felt like a dinner at an old age home. Each of the three veggie dishes tasted almost exactly the same, the fish was overdone and salt was the predominant seasoning (don’t you know us old people can’t have too much salt). I felt I was treated a bit like a nursing home resident as well, especially after being scolded about my shallow knowledge regarding the use of salted herbs on butterless bread in much the same way one would after stepping off the property without permission. Maybe it’s better at breakfast or lunch but mention the word hip at this place during dinner and most would immediately think it’s a high risk area for a fracture.

Review:Vancouver:DDD:Tomahawk BBQ:Part 2

August 5, 2013August 7, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

The first time I went to Tomahawk I ventured for the chief Skookum burger and previously blogged about the experience (https://fareeatales.com/2013/05/14/dddvancouvertomahawk-bbq/). The second time around I was there for breakfast. Tomahawk is the perfect place if you have a go hard or go home attitude. As a result, I had to go for the mixed grill. The name is a bit deceiving. It sounds innocent enough but perhaps “Sasquatch’s feast” of “Lumberjack’s Labour” would be more appropriate.

Here’s the menu description:

Nine generous slices of Yukon style bacon,

two country fresh eggs, fried or scrambled,

two slices of Klondike toast,

ORGANIC hamburger patty,

aged cheddar cheese,

wiener,

onions

fresh sautéed mushrooms.

What the menu doesn’t mention is the fact that it’s served on a bed of home fries which presumably could be made from a whole 10lb bag of potatoes.

I left the fork on the picture below to put the size of the plate into perspective. It’s the size of a hubcap. The highlight is the bacon. I’m not even sure if yukon-style bacon is an official term outside the confines of Tomahawk. It is almost a cross between ham and bacon and unlike scrawny slabs of overcooked side bacon. nine slices are enough to cover the entire plate. It was cooked perfectly. The potatoes are far from the highlight of the dish but add a nice base for the rest of the plate.

I made my best effort to complete the plate but fell a bit short, meaning I only needed a 9km jog around Stanley Park later in the day.

My Take

The An $18 breakfast is a bit steep but not far from the $12-15 offerings by most Vancouver and Toronto breakfast joints. In a fashion similar the great cakes at Jethro’s, it could easily feed a family of four. It’s a funny concept… a village worth of bacon and potatoes combined with among many things, a single piece of cheese and a few sliced onions. I wonder if the cartoony, Where’s Waldo placemat has some Di Vinci code which reveals the correct way to eat the mixed grill. Or maybe you should just eat it Yukon-style..whatever that means.

Food Apps: Check out Placemark! A Toronto based app to make remembering a restaurant easier

August 3, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

I was recently contacted by Steven Chung, the mind behind Placemark, a new food app promising to make remembering the places you want to eat a lot easier. I’ll be the first to admit I’m not as tech savvy as many. Yes, I have a Facebook and Twitter account, but don’t post as much as I should. I’ve been exposed to Instagram, Foursquare, Delicious and Pinterest but I must say I don’t keep up with them.

I’m also guilty at doing extensive internet searches of new Toronto restaurants only to forget them a few hours later. Did I see it on blogTO, Toronto Life, or on the site of one of the many bloggers out there? Sites like Urbanspoon has helped, allowing diners to add restaurants to a wish list for quick reference when looking for a night out. What it can’t do, however, is remind you why you liked that restaurant in the first place.

Enter Placemark, the new app which allows you to tag specific web pages to a catalogue you create. Not only will it save the restaurant’s name and address, but it will pin it on a map and reference to the website which drew you to the restaurant to in the first place. For example, if you read my blog about the lobster bisque at Richmond Station or the boquerones at Bar Isabel, you won’t just remember WHERE you want to go, but WHY you want to go!

It’s easy to use as well. When you sign up (go to http://www.placemarkhq.com/hello), you can add a button to your web browser and simply click it when you see a page about a place you like. The app does the rest. When you check your catalogue, it will indicate what you marked, where it is on a map and remind you of the webpage that drew your interest in the first place.

If you click on the “Toronto Map” tab on my blog, you can see Placemark in action. You can click on the restaurant name to see where it is on the map and see the link to my review.

For any questions about Placemark, please contact Steve at steve@placemarkhq.com.

So, the next time you see something on my blog in Toronto you can’t wait to try…just Placemark it!

Chicago:Day 5: Nana-nana-nana..I was bopping and hopping all night long

August 3, 2013September 18, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

Stop 1– Nana’s

Day 5 was a triple hit of triple D. After a subway up to Wrigley field a few days earlier, I figured I’d venture past US Cellular field to at least lay eyes on the White Sox home field. That, and it was on the way to another DDD that was a cab ride from the conference centre. I shyed away from hitting up Nana’s on Sunday in an effort to avoid the brunch crowd so I figured a late breakfast/early lunch on Monday would be safer. It’s a clean breakfast and lunch nook with an open kitchen, small tables and a bar to sit at. I had a chance to talk to the owner who told me the restaurant is dedicated to his mom who, after being diagnosed with diabetes, made radical diet and lifestyle changes which got her off of medications and made her diabetes manageable. The premise is fresh and organic foods served with a Mexican flare.

There are two things which definitely draw me to a dish: I’m always intrigued by traditional dishes which are given a twist and anything that is local and in season. Today was no exception. Instead of my normal tendency to fill my veins with sausage and pork gravy, I was drawn to the nanadict, an interesting version of classic eggs benny. The english muffin is replaced with pupusas, the ham with chorizo and the hollandaise with a poblano cream sauce. The pupusa was a bit bricky and the eggs were poached American style (meaning a little too long). I loved the chorizo, especially with the poblano cream, which was rich and had a fresh flavour with a subtle bite. A little cilantro on top would have been great, The earthy potatoes and acidic greens added a nice balance to the dish.

The local/seasonal draw was the garlic whistles which were served with a sprinkle of fried cheese. They were tender and delicious. The cheese, a shot of hot sauce and a squeeze of lemon recommended by the owner blended nicely with the garlic flavour. A great side dish!

My Take

Nana’s is a cute nook featuring breakfast, lunch and dinner rooted in family values and giving back. They sponsor the Benton House, a local agency dedicated to reducing hunger in Chicago through diner donations. The owner is present and proud. The menu has lots of choices, many with Mexican/South American influence and all based on local and in-house ingredients whenever possible. It’s a feel good place although I imagine too much poblano cream or chorizo may not leave you feeling too good the next day.

Verdict: 4 Guyz

Stop 2– bopNgrill

I got out the cab with a couple of colleagues only to avoid a summertime monsoon by seconds. With wind blowing and stop signs rattling, I was happy to be in the safe confines of bopNgrill, a DDD featuring burgers and bop plates. When I watched the show, I could almost smell the sizzling mushrooms through the television screen as Will Song meticulously created Americana with Asian influence. I was drawn to the umami burger that was featured on DDD and looked absolutely delicious. The Philly Bulkogi egg rolls featured on the show are only available on weekends, so that wasn’t an option. We also split the kimchi burger which featured my fave…a fried egg with bacon, cheese and kimchi. My sense of Smellivision was correct. The delicious smell of earthy mushrooms and truffles in the umami burger radiated throught the air. The burgers were cooked a perfect medium and had a dripiness which required a napkin run or two. They were well balanced and extremely flavourful. As a matter of fact, after one bite the clouds parted and the weather seemed to clear up. A coincidence??? I think not.

Verdict: 5 Guyz

Stop 3- Hopleaf Bar

After bopNgrill, I hopped in a cab and faced a dilemma. I had hopleaf, another DDD pegged for a visit, yet it was game 6 of the Stanley Cup finals in the city poised to win. Did I want to venture to a place with a ridiculous choice of beer or did I want to settle for bud light and a crowd of drunkards cheering for the Hawks? Actually, it wasn’t really a dilemma. The day before, the barkeep at Haymarket raved about this place and hell, there may be a TV at Hopleaf so we could at least keep an eye on things.

The cab dropped us at the front door. After paying the fare, we were stopped by a gent who demanded ID. My dad and I have a running joke. He was asked for ID at 42 and I said I’d beat him. I’m not 42 yet but that fact I was asked on this occasion says I still have a chance. That said, it’s pretty standard practice in Illinois to ID everybody. Hopleaf is considered a tavern so nobody under 21 is even allowed in the place. We seated ourselves in the bar area and examined the multi-page beer menu. . As for a TV…not a chance. The bar staff looked like the Grateful Dead and the patrons had anything but hockey on their mind.

The beer selection is extensive, ranging from breweries down to the road to hot spots across the USA. There is also an extensive selection of Belgian and Belgian style brews as well as a few European stragglers as well.

The Snaggletooth Bandana is a great Illinois IPA from Naperville combining a hoppy punch with strong tropical fruit flavours. I was fortunate to try a Troublesome Gose from Off Color, a Chicago start-up brewery which had it’s official launch at Hopleaf that night. It was a classic wheat beer with medium spice and a refreshing finish. One can’t go to Chicago without sucking back a Goose Island offering. In this regard, I opted for a cumbersome pils which hit the spot. With three of us there, there was lots of sipping and sharing but be assured there is not shortage of choices. The staff are very helpful as well, quick to offer advice, good or bad, regarding any of the pints. For example, I ordered a pint of a cucumber beer and, at the advise of the bartender, was offered a sample first and quickly realized a pint was just not feasible.

As for the food, the menu is a concoction of dishes with most made in-house. Since I was already pretty stuffed with the combination of bopNgrill and beer, we ordered a few things to split and stuck with the signatures; mussels with frites ($13), charcuterie trio (headlined by house made head cheese) ($14) and the the brisket sandwich ($13). As a result of a camera malfunction I don’t have pictures but I can say that each dish was terrific. The mussels were classically done. The charcuterie plate was well executed and well thought out. A minor fight between the four os us almost broke out for the last smear of rilette. I was a bit reluctant about the brisket. It’s a tough cut to perfect and the fact it wasn’t a smokehouse left me a little suspicious. My opinion changed with the first bite. It was delicate and tender and competitive with some of the best briskets I’ve had.

My Take

Great beer and great food make this a great place despite the lack on television and a less than cozy atmosphere. The bar has a bit of staleness but doesn’t translate to the food and drink. The mussels, brisket and charcuterie were amazing. The service is great from a beer recommendation perspective. Otherwise, you’re on your own. The bar area doesn’t doesn’t even have a waitress. Plus, you gotta leave the kids at home and bring you ID because if you don’t have it you might as well be 12 because you’re not getting in. Despite the lack of a TV, two loud waves of screams a minute apart from a sports bar next door told us everything we needed to know. The Hawks scored twice in the last two minutes to secure the Stanley cup and the party began….

Verdict- 5 Guyz

Review:Toronto:Entertainment District:Beverley Hotel

July 31, 2013August 1, 2013 spennyrd2 Comments

There has been much anticipation over the opening of The Beverley, a boutique hotel on Queen just west of university, Ever since leaving Hawthorne earlier in the year, Chef Eric Wood’s twitter account has counted down to the opening of the inn which features a restaurant and rooftop patio. I decided to give it a whirl despite the fact it still seems to be in the soft opening phase.

I was greeted outside by a smiling young lady who asked if I wanted some lunch. It was a little later in the day so seating was ample. I was seated at a shaky table adjacent to the bar. Almost immediately a friendly waitress dressed in black came by and asked me if I wanted a drink. There are choices from a snug list of new and traditional cocktails featuring no alcohol in particular. There’s cognac, bourbon, rye, gin, vodka, tequila, rum and pimm’s. There’s even sangria. I went “Old School” with a Pimm’s cup 335 selling, like most of the other cocktails on the menu, for $12. It was well done. As I was sipping away, it was apparent I was crashing a meeting with many of the hotel’s stakeholders (no worries, I had no inclination to listen in and heard nothing other than the occasional bellow of laughter). Shortly after, one of the gents got up and walked toward me in the bar area. For a second I pictured a scene from the Sopranos and figured he may throw me out ass over tea kettle. Well….not really. Instead, he gave me one of those “uncle Fred at Christmas” shots in the arm and said “get the burger”. Shortly after well…I ordered the burger.

Pimm's Cup #335 $12 — Pimm’s Cup #335 $12

Before the burger, however, I ordered the caesar salad which is something I rarely do. What intrigued me, however, was the fact it was made with dinosaur kale instead of romaine lettuce (although I suspect it was in fact baby kale). It was a good size and served with asiago cheese, smoked tomato chips and rye croutons. It like a traditional Caesar salad except was a little less crispy because of the kale. That said, the flavour was better and the risk of sogginess was missing. The tomato chips were amazing and adequately dobbleganged the traditional bacon. One suggestion (in my best Obi Wan-Kenobi voice): USE THE LEMON. One squirt of the wedge gave it the acid needed to cut through the sulphur of the kale.

At first I misread the description of the burger to say “pickled watermelon” instead of “pickle and watermelon”. One I noticed my error..well it didn’t matter because I ordered it anyway. I’ve told a few people since and they look at me like I’m a nuts. Well, it worked. Unlike a lot of other burgers, the patty was seasoned very well. It was a tad tough to eat given the large watermelon and pickle slices and the latter was the prominent taste, What made the watermelon work was it’s contrast against the tangy cheese (Guernsey is great on a burger) in both taste and texture. In the end, I pictured it as a juicy monstrosity in which the act of biting would squeeze Bordelaise sauce out of the patty like a sponge, forcing it to drip down my hands with mudpuddle messiness . Instead, it was a bit overdone, so I missed out on the adventure although it tasted damn good, The fries made me wonder if Eric’s recent trip to the West Coast had an influence on the menu. Kennebec fries are a staple out there and in my opinion, truly make the best fries. They also had a shot of crispy garlic chips but surprisingly were not served with any sort of dipping sauce. A house ketchup is available with the starter order, so I’m not sure if the omission with the burger was an oversight or planned that way. I actually think the house ketchup would have helped the burger too. Hey, it makes me wonder if the Bordelaise sauce would of worked on the side as an au jus for the fries as well.

Dessert seems to be a work in progress. There is no menu as of yet, but the kind waitress provided me with three options: a choice of two homemade ice creams (orange szechuan and malted barley), a couple of in house popsicles (I think pineapple jalapeno was one) and a smores dessert. With no concept of portion size or price, I asked if I could sample both types of ice cream. She said she would check with the kitchen. A few minutes later she returned with a defeated look on her face and informed me it was not possible because the ice cream was proportioned when prepared. A little perplexed, I opted for the orange Szechuan and realized I would have to satisfy my craving for malted barley over a pint later in the day. The ice cream was fantastic. It had the texture of silk, a rich taste but not an overwhelming heaviness. The brownie was decent but wasn’t needed because it wasn’t as good as the ice cream itself.

Orange Szechuan Ice Cream. $3. Charge me $6 and give me two!

My Take

Eric Wood is a chef who, in my opinion, is very friendly and open with his customers. He comments on blogs, answers tweets and is not afraid to make recommendations for other restaurants among other things. His new endevour is a little boutique mixed with a hint of hipster, sprinkled with a bit of West coast and dusted with a scent of his old gig at Hawthorne. It’s boutique in that it delves into cuisine which is veggie-centric and focuses on choices that include raw and gluten free dishes. The kennebec fries are very west coast. With his Hawthorne exodus, he brought the “4 Play for lunch” concept (app, salad, main, dessert) for $16. Both the drink and food menus have no defined focus which I find highly acceptable in an environment which has been populated with ramen, snack food and bourbon or tequila bars. That said, it’s far from a traditional menu as indicated by a watermelon topped burger and steak and potatoes made with beef cheeks. It will be interesting to see how this pans out. Will the menu be sophisticated enough to attract a boutique hotel crowd and yet be hip enough to draw in the curmudgeon foodies, especially given the fact they tend to stray away from pretty decor and gravitate toward tiny rooms that look like their parent’s basement apartment or a janitor’s broom closet? Maybe the rooftop will become the foodie haven as it appears to be focused on grilled meats a la izakaya (although it’s still Paleo I suppose). This paradox even resonates with the waitstaff. I saw a couple of staff drop in with back-size tattoos, presumably only to jump into sheer black dresses and assume an old school service model free of angst and pretension. Bravo!

In the end, I think the menu hiccups are growing pains associated with any new franchise. A tweak of the burger, a little ketchup with the fries and an extra scoop of ice cream would make me a happy boy. I know I can say this knowing that next time I drop by, the shot in the arm won’t turn into a punch in the face from anybody from the board of directors, especially uncle Fred.