Trevor Kitchen and Bar is a hidden underground cave nestled among the established Wellington Street restaurant row just east of the financial district promising an anti-elitist fine dining experience. Normally, Trevor offers a meat heavy, fois gras filled , rich menu which is a bit on the pricy side. However, they actively participate in winter- and summerlicious and surprisingly offer a prix-fixe lunch menu during December for only $25. I couldn’t resist taking advantage of this great offer.
Must
The prawn spaghettini in cognac and chive was divine. An abundant number of juicy prawns were scattered within a large portion of tasty al dente noodles. It was seasoned perfectly and lacked the greasiness and over saltiness of many other oil based pasta sauces.
Prawn Spaghettini
The coq au vin was what you dream of coming home to on a dreary winter day. Highlighted by fall-off-the-bone chicken atop stick-to- your-ribs mashed potatoes and served at a perfect temperature, it brought that toque and mitts right off the heater feeling to my insides and the lack of the cliche parsley garnish was so refreshing.
Coq au Vin
The dessert was magic. The chantilly brought a light texture and subtle saltiness to the moist and rich torte topped with sparkly caramel sauce and a solitary gooseberry…yes…I love gooseberries. There’s no way I could finish it after the rich entree but the few bites I had were a fit conclusion to a great meal.
Dark Chocolate and Caramel Torte with Peanut Butter Chantilly
Maybe
The starter salad is quite large for a lunch salad and was good enough although the dressing was a bit too acidic. It lacked the punch and visual appeal I was expecting; a whole lot of greens with a few sliced pears, some small pumpkin seeds and a few pickled onions.
Bitter Greens
Mundane
I appreciate the attempt to respect the original architecture of the building but the atmosphere and decor is a bit lack lustre. The layout is odd, the kitchen is distant and the reddish tiled floor looks like you’re in the Queen Street subway station . That said, I wouldn’t trade it in for a bright, overdecorated room to distract patrons from sub-par food but I think some inroads could be made to increase the visual appeal just a bit.
My Take
Trevor’s Christmas gift is a great December lunch menu for a great price. On the flip side, it’s kind of like getting a great gift wrapped in newsprint instead of pretty paper. Maybe it’s the fact I was seated in the same area twice, but I looked at the comfy gallery pics online but just don’t get that feeling. If you don’t care for bows and ribbons, however, the food is well worth the trek into the underbelly of aged Wellington St. architecture.
When asked about Belgium, most people will associate it with two things: waffles and chocolate. Others may also cite mussels, Stella Artois and Jean-Claude Van Damme . Belgium is a bit of a misunderstood country sandwiched in between the more recognized entities of France, Germany and the Netherlands. It’s no surprise that its culinary influences which include rich saucy foods and hearty stews originate from its neighbours except for Holland…there’s no good food in Holland.
Chambar is a evening hot spot bordering Gastown in Vancouver. Commandeered by well-trained chef Nico Schuermans, one could consider Chambar’s menu an “Amazing Race” of world flavours, complete with fast forwards, detours and road blocks.
Must (Fast Forwards)
As it should, the culinary adventure begins in Belgium with offerings of mussels and over 50 Belgian beer ranging from witbier (wheat) to blondes to darks to trappists to table beer (served in 750 ml bottles) that you drink like wine. At the recommendation of the staff, I ordered the Duchess de Bourgnogne, a deep ruby lambic with intricate flavors synonymous with a fine European wine. My choice was the Boon Gueze, an aggressive but beautiful sour lambic, which paired nicely with the mussels. Speaking of mussels, the Coquotte Moules Frites (pictured below) were mind-blowing. They were meaty and fresh and swimming in a philter of wine and cream with teases of bacon and garnished with fresh green onions.
Coquotte Moule
With due diligence paid to the homeland, Chambar turns its attention to other parts of the globe. The lapin a la moutarde (rabbit cannelloni) pays respect to the French neighbours while fusing with the middle-eastern flavours of dates and pistachios. The filling was decedent and encased in a perfectly cooked pasta which would even make a few Italians nod with approval.
Rabbit Cannelloni
Steak and sausage are staples all over the world. The Chambar’s Grillade be Boeuf and Chorizo adds a Spanish/South American flare to these two carnivorous staples by grilling the sausage and serving the beef seasoned with lime and chili atop a fragrant chimichurri. The fingerling potato chips added an additional earthiness and subtle crunch to the plate.
Chambar’s Grillade be Boeuf and Chorizo
For dessert, the Mama Rizk goes back to France with a mille feuille pastry with a rosewater twist. It has an french renaissance architecture that I almost didn’t want to tear down. The mint sorbet harmonized the dish from a taste and texture perspective.
Mama Rizk
The tarte au citron was another French influenced dessert which payed homage to traditional lemon meringue pie. Fluffy coconut cake is the foundation for the the tart lemon curd and souffle accents. As tasty as it was visually appealing, it was a brilliant spin on a classic dish.
Tarte au Citron
Maybe (Detours)
Chambar’s next stop is Asia by offering the ubiquitous tartare de thon rouge (tuna tartare), flavoured with wasabi, pickled veggies and served with rice crackers. It was an average dish with decent flavour but can’t compete with others I have had elsewhere.
Tatare de Thon Rouge (Tuna Tartare)
Chambar goes Canadian next with its rendition of grilled local octopus, seasoned with soy, maple and bacon flavours and topped with fresh kale. The octopus was prepared nicely and the flavours were…well….nice.
Poulpe Geant Grillee (octopus)
Both the Le Nico Fume and Le Cafe Belge were both highly recommended cake by the waitstaff. Both were nicely presented but a bit monotonous in flavour. Le Nico Fume was chocolate scotch cake with caramel and ice cream served in a glass (at least it wasn’t a mason jar). Le Cafe Belge was coffee flavour cheesecake with chocolate, chocolate and more chocolate on top. Both would be a fitting end to a good meal but lacked the edginess I had come to expect based on the offerings earlier in the evening.
Le Nico FumeLe Cafe Belge
Mundane (Road Block)
The thought of sitting on the Pacific coast and enjoying a local, roasted halibut loin swimming in a fragrant broth made my mouth water but I was left a bit confused by the cassoulet de poisson (halibut). Sometimes its better to keep things simple and clean, especially with the availability of a great eating fish like halibut but there were too many competing flavours that ironically “drown” the halibut’s subtle flavour.
Cassoulet de Poisson (Halibut)
From an ambiance perspective, the noise level is off the charts. I equate it to having a window seat near a jet engine so loud you can’t hear the person in the aisle seat beside you. If that’s your scene it works; otherwise it’s quite a distraction.
My Take
Chambar is an edgy eatery which lays its foundation in its Belgian roots but experiments with cutting edge international flavours reflected through frequently changing menu items (in fact some of the items reviewed here are no longer available) . A fascinating Belgian beer selection and world class mussels served by knowledgeable waitstaff makes every trip worth it. In a manner similar to the Amazing Race, the plates offer some wonderful scenery, however, this aggressive style is bound to lead to some winners and losers during the noisy travels along the way.
Tojo’s often comes to mind first when one considers fine Japanese cuisine in Vancouver. Not your hole-in-the-wall sushi joint, Tojo’s focuses on high end sushi at high end prices. Some hardcore sushi traditionalists call it overrated while others have appointed it the gold standard of Japanese cuisine. On a recent trip, I went with a large (and rather excited) group to indulge on the famed omakase tasting menu. The premise of this menu is to offer the freshest ingredients to be served hot and cold in 5 or more courses, preferably with copious amounts of sake and/or Sapporo, starting at $80.
Must
The sablefish was by far the best course served throughout the evening. A generous portion of this naturally sweet and buttery fish was perfectly cooked and balanced with a slightly tart and salty glaze which graced the entire tongue to wonderful flavours . The bed of slivered, well seasoned vegetables added both texture and colour to complete this well-rounded mid-omakase dish.
Tojo’s Sablefish
Maybe
Both the sashimi and sushi platters were “cute”; the former garnished with a fish head, wasabi purses and very Canadian maple leaves. The latter had a number of delicate rolls presented nicely beside a cooked lobster shell. The sashimi was fresh and expertly cut so there wasn’t a lot to complain about. The variety of sushi was innovative and impressive, highlighted by generous amounts of fresh fish topping most of the options. Despite the server raving about the signature golden roll (see far right of sushi platter), I found it the weakest of the offerings despite the fact I’m a huge fan of eggs in any way, shape, form and species.
Sashimi PlatterSushi Platter
Mundane
The tempura vegetables were very average and didn’t add a lot to the overall experience. Perhaps the hype around the omakaze experience heightened my expectations beyond a greasy, battered sweet potato I could make at home.
Tempura Vegetables
One of the important aspects of a tasting menu is the need to keep it flowing. Long gaps between courses can disrupt the flow of a good meal and there were some disruptions during the rather long service which was a bit aggravating considering the restaurant was at about 50% to capacity.
My Take
Every big city has a shortlist of “must see” eateries that every tourist and foodie alike flock to in search of the ultimate dining experience. Tojo’s fits the bill..but the bill may not fit you. It was an expensive and lengthy venture into a rich history of West Coast cuisine highlighted by fresh, local fare including hearty sushi rolls and delicious Canadian sablefish prepared by the iconic Hidekazu Tojo. I was hoping he would come and chat a little, especially since the restaurant was not to capacity and we probably dropped over $1200 on the final bill. Anybody who knows or reads me knows how much I relish speaking to “celebrity chefs” and to be honest, I was hoping for a brief discussion instead of listening to him sing a strange karaoke version of “Happy Birthday” to a small group a few tables down. Maybe I’m overreacting a bit but come on..how often can you say you spoke to a man who cooked for Martha Stewart AND invented the California roll.
In many ways, the Toronto lunch melee has become as competitive as the dinner one. As opposed to the drawn-out, cocktail promoting, upselling strategies of the evening scene, the lunch philosophy is a bit different…quick, fresh and cheap. There are a few main events on the midday fight card; the burger battle, the ramen rivalry, the sushi skirmish and the burrito brawl. I plan to tackle each of these battles separately but first there is a need to discuss Banh Mi Boys, a popular lunch spot that beats by its own drum, offering real fusion flavours unique to this Queen West take out joint. I tried a variety of offerings including the Banh Mi (sandwich), tacos, steamed Bao (buns) and even a few fries.
Must
The Banh Mi sandwich threw me into blissful confusion. A baguette topped with delicious tofu (yes those words can co-exist) and topped with a signature mix of pickled carrots, cukes and cilantro jilted my gustatory system with an offering of French, Mexican and Asian flavors. The bread was surprisingly delicious, with a texture competitive with other gourmet sandwich offerings spattered throughout town. It was comforting yet edgy but quite satisfying and at a decent price point of $5.49.
Tofu Banh Mi Sandwich
Maybe
Kimchi fries….hmmmm. An interesting concept providing you like kimchi..and fries. Supplemented with mayo (maybe a bit too much) and green onions, this $5.99 dish (although it is quite a sizable portion) is a definite deviation from standard poutine offered at almost every food truck, gastropub burger joint within a 15 km radius. Kimchi is one of those “in moderation” type foods I could only take these fries in a small dose. The mayo offered a creamy texture and rich flavor but the fact that the meltiness of the cheese and heat of steaming gravy was missing left me just a little sad.
Kimchi Fries
The $3.99 taco was also unorthodox, moving away from the traditional mexican corn or wheat shell toward a thicker, stretchier chapati-type cortex surrounding, in this case, a southern type pulled pork filling and topped with the right amount of kimchi, crunchy cabbage and those incredible pickled carrots.
Tacos and Steamed Bun with Jicama Salad
Mundane
Even a decent braised beef cheek and the magical carrot elixir couldn’t save the bao (see above) which tasted as if it might have been steamed a while ago. It lacked the melt-in-your-mouth-wonder-bread-dipped-in-a-bit-of-sugar taste I associate with a perfect steamed bun. Sigh.
My Take
I applaud Banh Mi Boys’ understanding of fusion cuisine to mean more than adding salsa to pizza and calling it Mexican-Italian. This is one of the more unique lunches you can score along the busy Queen street corridor, mixing flavours and concepts together create a tantalizing smorgasbord of pungent, sweet and savory gusto surrounded by world examples of starchy staples at a decent price. Currently, Banh Mi Boys stands alone but given it’s apparent success and unique concept, there will no doubt be other contenders throwing their culinary aprons in the ring attempting to attract those not interested in burritos, burgers or one of the other ubiquitous main events peppering every downtown street corner. I can taste the jalapeno, panko-coated bologna calzones already.
Not since the days of Shaggy, Scooby-Doo and the Mystery Machine have mobile smokehouses been so mainstream. Case and point, I was at a fundraiser a while back and the line for Urban Smoke was twice that of any other truck that was onsite. Parked comfortably within the confines of a private parking lot (so as not to add to further Toronto city hall controversies) , the staff were busy dishing out some traditional and not so traditional fare. Ten bucks got you one of four choices so I picked up some lunch for myself and a colleague.
Urban Smoke Menu
Must
The ability to get a hearty soup is a rarity in most restaurants let alone a food truck. The split pea soup was reminiscent of something your French-Canadian uncle J.P. may spend hours in the kitchen whipping up in a magical cauldron. It was thick and savory and filled with chunks of delicious double smoked ham while resisting the temptation to over-salt, a common transgression of many an eatery.
Perfecting the grilled cheese seems a easy trick but its simplicity is often its quandary. Urban Smoke offered two sandwiches; a standard grilled cheese and one featuring nutella and mascarpone cheese as a dessert. Magic is grilling the bread to golden brown while melting the ample filling, a feat that everyone from top chefs to 15 year old latchkey kids have spent generations trying to perfect. Urban Smoke comes close. The secret could very well be seasoning the bread with just a small amount of salt on the outside before grilling the abundant contents within. Simple but extremely satisfying.
Spilt Pea and Ham Soup, Grilled Cheese and Banana PuddingMascarpone and Nutella Grilled Cheese
Maybe
The pulled pork was average which is still a compliment considering the number of food trucks, burger joints and smoke houses who lay their foundation on good pulled pork. The meat was tender, partnered with piquant seasonings and the bread was soft and proportional to the filling. The “magic fries” provided a poof that could certainly help Penn and Teller make a rabbit appear but maybe not enough to make David Copperfield’s convertible materialize out of the blue. The slaw added a delicious, tangy crunch.
Pulled Pork with Magic Fries
Mundane
I took a chance and opted to skip the magic fries in favour of the banana pudding (see picture above). It had a decent flavour but I felt a bit ripped off by the size and the fact it was starting to separate a bit, leaving a bit of an oily pool in the bottom of the glass. It was about the size of a jello shooter and in the end about as exciting as the never-ending handkerchief trick.
Part of the appeal of a food truck should be a quick meal to avoid having to sit down, order, eat and wait for the bill. Although almost inevitable, especially during high volume events such as fundraisers and other events, long waits continue to be an issue with wheel-bearing establishments and Urban Smoke was no exception.
My Take
Urban Smoke is a bit of a traveling roadshow, bringing a kind of magic show to each and every parking lot or street side it inhabits. The headliners include a variety of southern BBQ foods including pulled pork and brisket partnered with a few other choices. As a result, it draws big crowds which means big lines and big waits. The staff, however, are quite efficient and personable and maintain a decent flow. If the truck is around (check out torontofoodtrucks.ca for schedules), I would definitely consider a trip for lunch if you have the time and desire to break up a hectic day. After all, after a busy adventure unmasking criminals, I’m sure Shag and Scoob would have been happy to fill up on a few grilled cheese sandwiches following an equally smoky visit to the Mystery Machine.
Reds Wine Tavern recently underwent a metamorphosis in an attempt to appeal to a crowd outside of the confines of the financial district. With a 2-million dollar renovation and the recruitment of Top Chef Canada favorite Ryan Gallagher from Ruby Watchco, the new Reds promises an upscale yet casual environment to appeal to the Bay street traditionalist and the nomadic foodie alike. One of the highlights of Reds is the availability of over 75 wines by the glass in addition to the over 350 bottles.
I took a chance and asked for the chef’s table via open table with a few days notice knowing the chances were slim to none that I would succeed. However, I found it a bit annoying to not have the request even acknowledged either in advance or when I checked in at the venue. In addition, I had to wait at the front door to be seated since the remainder of my party (2 of 4) had not arrived. They were stuck in a line of traffic on Adelaide which was being diverted around yet another falling glass disaster at the Trump tower two blocks away. We were finally seated at a rather large wooden table in the back corner of the second level overlooking the bar below. I quickly realized we were in for a noisy experience when I heard six or seven guys hollering obnoxiously over a game of table shuffleboard with ties undone and drinks in hand. I felt like I was an extra in a whisky commercial. Well…sort of. Based on the amount of time it took us to receive any sort of service, I could of watched the commercial plus half a sitcom as well. A round of drinks eventually arrived and the food was slowly delivered afterwards.
Must
I must admit I was quite excited for a few menu items at Reds Wine. I’ve often imagined my own ideal restaurant menu and deviled eggs are definitely on the list. Better yet, it was a trio of deviled eggs ($11), each containing all sorts of add-ins such as crispy onion, seafood and even a delicious avacado and tender pea mixture. Based on menus I’ve seen online since, they may be like Cadbury Easter cream eggs; not around all the time but worth it when they are on the shelf.
Deviled Eggs
The triple cooked smoked wings ($15) were braised with duck fat to facilitate a crispiness and flavourful skin while maintaining a tender and juicy flesh underneath. The two house made side sauces (especially the BBQ sauce) were a great match for both the crispy vegetables and the wings themselves.
Triple Cooked Smoked Wings
There was a lack of consensus at the table over whether the chicken pot pie with fois gras gravy ($18) was a must or maybe but I’m writing the blog so I vote must. The pastry was light and baked golden-brown. The filling was brimming with flavour highlighted by the faint but evident taste of fois gras in a very distinct gravy and a array of fresh vegetables and tender chicken. The only issue was the scarcity of the stew compared to the abundant crust which I can forgive in lieu of the tremendous taste.
Chicken Pot Pie with Fois Gras Gravy
Maybe
Another item on my imaginary dream menu is a variety of caesars, so I pleased to see a small variety here. I opted for the charcuterie caesar ($11.50) which is a classic vodka caesar served with cool things like Tabasco barrel-infused tomato-clam juice and housemade hot sauce with a small side bowl of meat, cheese, gherkins and olives. The complete package was fresh and fun but the drink itself was pretty bland. Perhaps a bacon and tomato jam would of helped…
Charcuterie Caesar
The fish of the day items (around $25) appear to be to the foundation of the menu, likely influenced by Ryan himself. I ordered the grouper but they ran out so it gets no points. I tried the salmon which was moist but under seasoned and lost amongst the abundance of green lentils and apple fennel slaw (the latter was quite tasty). The New Bedford scallops were large , cooked nicely and served on a pleasant fresh carrot puree with smoky bacon and some pistachio pesto. The dish blended well and gets a resounding OK which is more than I can say for missing grouper and bland salmon swimming upstream in lentils.
Salmon with Lentils and Apple Fennel SlawNew Bedford Scallops
Three types of mussels were available and we opted for the tavern caesar variety. The broth was top-notch and the mussels were fresh, hearty and flavorful. The $18.50 price is a bit high but they do provide a nice start to a good meal although I’m not sure about the bread sticks.
Tavern Caesar Mussels
The dessert menu only offers three choices for $8 each. As a table, we opted for the grasshopper parfait (in a mason jar, of course) and an apple tart. I wouldn’t say it’s must have but it would appease a sweet tooth if you needed the boost.
Grasshopper ParfaitReds Apple Tart
Mundane
My vision of an $18 lobster guacamole was a bit different than 15 upright nacho chips stuck in a scarce amount of lobster,a runny guacamole and a blob of sour cream. It’s not that the dish was terrible but if didn’t make me want to throw a flashy new $20 on the table and say thank you.
Lobster Guacamole
As mentioned above, the service started poorly and didn’t get a lot better. When we ordered wine to complement the entrees it just didn;t come and otherwise check-ins were infrequent. A chat with a member of the waitstaff afterwards left me even more confused as I was unable to determine from his comments if it was a bad night or if short-staffing is a general philosophy of the restaurant. It seemed both scatter-brained and laissez-faire and soured the overall experience.
My Take
The emergence of shows like Top Chef Canada and other food network shows have opened up diner’s eyes to some of the brilliant minds who define cuisine in Toronto and other metropolitan areas. This has allowed a flow of celebrity character into many of the establishments opening up across the country. Richmond Station in Toronto (Carl Heinrich), Sidedoor in Ottawa (JonathanKorecki) and Charcut in Calgary (Connie DeSousa) are all stamped with a hip, youthful flare, open kitchens and sophisticated menu which draws a diversity of clientele. Although the Reds menu synched with my imagination and met the grade, other than his name on the menu, Ryan’s presence seemed absent. The renovation to a relaxed environment has not trickled down to the waitstaff and service mentality. I will say that Reds realized their mistakes and offered a solution which, in the end, was satisfactory to our dinner party.
I was thinking….perhaps dousing the shuffleboard champion with a charcuterie ceasar from 20 feet up would draw in the resounding claps of the Wiser guys to provide a much needed personality boost to an otherwise stuffy environment. If anything, it would appease to the numerous patrons around me who felt like they were witnessing cantankerous behavior inside a glorified frat house….minus the copious and timely alcohol…at least upstairs anyway.
Note: Some of my pictures mysteriously disappeared from my media card.
About a year ago, the Royal Ontario museum announced Corbin Tomaszeski, best known for appearances on the Food Network’s Dinner Party Wars, as the new executive chef of C5, a lunch spot right in the museum which over looks the Toronto skyline. The space is almost uncomfortably vast and a bit industrial despite attempts to offer an upscale dining experience. The open kitchen is awkwardly placed and seems more institutional than it does inviting. I arrived for my 130 reservation (hours are 11-3) and had to wait 15 minutes to be seated due to what I was told was a busy lunch rush. You cannot see the restaurant from the entrance, so I was surprised (and slightly annoyed) to see the restaurant less than half full when I was finally seated.
Must
Nothing beats a hearty, well-seasoned soup and C5 didn’t disappoint. The chicken soup was served hot, full of vegetables and with a perfectly salted broth fragrant with thyme. It was served with a cheddar biscuit, the first of many examples of the delicious baked goods to come.
The dessert sampler for 2 was a great finish to the meal. It offered four different tastes on one plate: something baked, something chocolate, something fruity and something creamy. In this case it was pumpkin pie with whipped cream, a chocolate fudge square , a fruit cobbler and a custard flan. Each of the desserts were prepared nicely and demonstrated yet another example of a commitment to preserve the fading art of baking from scratch.
Dessert Sampler for 2
Maybe
The resounding theme of baked goods was evident again with the chicken pot pie. A flaky puff pastry surrounded a hearty bowl of rich chicken stew. The pastry was wonderfully browned and tasty but the filling was underseasoned. I would have liked more thyme or even salt but all I tasted was a bland cream sauce.
The highlight of salmon tart was also the crust. It had a buttery taste but was very light and not t oo overbearing. There were abundant chunks of potato and salmon but, like the pot pie, just seemed to be missing a little something. It was a large portion but just a lot of the same, although I did enjoy the salad.
There was a feature menu featuring food from around the world. I opted for an appetizer dish featuring hummus and a roasted eggplant spread served with not enough pitas. The hummus was unimpressive but the eggplant was nicely spiced and was not mushy like some other eggplant spreads.
Mundane
I made the mistake of talking myself into ordering the classic frites after seeing them delivered to a few other tables. They were overcooked, served with a less than impressive aioli and hardly worth the 6 bucks.
As mentioned, the service was not impressive. Perhaps it’s set up to appeal to a slow-moving, pretentious subset of the museum-dwelling artisans next door but it won’t appeal to the masses who are looking for efficient service with a smile.
My Take
C5 is a decent lunch choice despite the difficulty parking and getting into the restaurant itself (the signage is bad and you need to venture through the museum itself to find the right elevator). The service was a little stuffy and the decor too cold and cavernous which is a bit ironic for an art museum. Some may like the roominess but I felt a bit lost. I wish the open kitchen was more of a highlight but it is relatively inaccessible and unimportant in the scheme of things.
This menu was changed shortly after I went for lunch and the new menu offers a appealing fall/winter menu with dishes including classic dishes such as Sheppard’s pie, poutine, coq au vin and an expanded side collection including a variety of fall vegetables. It looks good enough for another try. There also appears to be an expansion of vegetarian options including corn cakes, flatbreads and dinner salads. I’m just leery that decor and service won’t match the warm appeal of the menu. If this was dinner party wars, it would be decent food and great baking served in a garage by your mother-in-law, but with a really nice view.
Grand Electric is a place you wanna hate. No reservations, long lines, cash/debit only and no split bills not to mention an irrelevant website makes planning a dinner with friends a bit cumbersome. Nonetheless, once you’re in you become one of the cool kids, even if for a short time. Loud old-school rap cuts the air amongst the touque-wearing animal heads as you stare at a blackboard scratched with nouveau-Mexican fare and double take when you see tacos for only 3.5 each. You get sucked into the gluttony and place order after order from the kitchen as you succumb to the communal rave of taco nirvana. It’s nothing short of a tongue-tickling trance.
Must
The tacos are terrific. Whether you opt for a safer arbol chicken (slightly spicy), basa fish (battered and flaky) or vegetarian taco (crunchy corn) or a more adventurous choice such as beef cheek (tender and rich) or pig tail (crispy and flavorful), there is little disappointment. Each choice is stuffed to the point where it is a hot mess; accompanied with variety of condiments, whether it be the abundant guacamole with the beef cheek or the salty cheese with the chicken. From a value perspective, they are head’s and (pig) tails above the competition considering other moxy establishments ask $10-12 for a pair of clearly inferior products.
Corn and Pork Belly al Pastor TacosBasa Fish, Beef Cheek and Chicken Arbol Tacos
The blackboard menu describes the pozole as dope. After the first bite, I couldn’t argue. Each spoonful offered tender hominy and pork suspended in a fragrant broth which was addictive like liquid nicotine. It was spiced perfectly, offering an edgy punch with every bite. In the end, it was heart-warming and addictive dish well worth of the dope proclamation.
Pork Pozole (Dope Soup)
The spicy squid redefines calamari which has unfortunately become a generic term for spongy rings of breaded squid served with some kind of generic dipping sauce. Grand Electric offers a mountain of tender hoops sprinkled with peppers, green onions and a spicy red coating which eliminates the need to be masked by seafood sauce or garlic aioli. You’ll wanna share this one although be warned that a few fork fights may ensue, even among good friends.
Spicy Squid (not calamari)
Maybe
Not surprisingly, desserts include anything that can be shoved into a mason jar. In this case, it was a key lime pie and a dulce de leche cake. Served together, there were in total contrast; one was tart, smooth and cold and the other was sweet, crumbly and served piping hot. In the end, they were both average for what they were but provided a very satisfying end to a terrific meal, although some may not enjoy the extreme sweetness and tartness of these finishing touches.
Key Lime and Dulce de Leche Dessert
Mundane
The hang-up is the utter pretension that characterizes many of the restaurants in Parkdale. There’s a “my house is bigger than your house” or maybe “my hole-in-the wall is less inviting than yours” mentality which resonates throughout the neighbourhood like cracks in the sidewalk. Case and point….I have a friend of mine who has been there at least a dozen times. She does the 60-90 minute wait like everybody else and brings new people almost every time. On her last visit, she was cut off. So was her table of four. Why? Too much bourbon? No, she was informed by the hostess that, after less than an hour of sitting, their “time was up” and they would not be served further. They were given the bill without further discussion. She attempted to call the owners on three occasions, has left messages and no calls have been returned.
Personally, I found the service pretty good once I went through the mandatory waiting period (even at 1045 at night). I did, however, feel a little inferior. Maybe it’s the fact that I don’t sport a raven tattoo or know all the lyrics to 2 Live Crew. Either that or I don’t have a fetish for social sodomy…afterall, I haven’t read 50 Shades and probably never will. Hey, maybe the next restaurant in Parkdale (providing the ban is lifted)can offer moderate asphyxiation in between the appetizer and main course.
My Take
The food is amazing! I do, however, heed a warning penned beautifully by Dr. Seuss over 20 years ago in “Oh, the place you will go!”…..
You won’t lag behind, because you’ll have the speed.
You’ll pass the whole gang and you’ll soon take the lead.
Wherever you fly, you’ll be the best of the best.
Wherever you go, you will top all the rest.
Except when you don’t
Because, sometimes, you won’t.
I’m sorry to say so
but, sadly, it’s true
and Hang-ups
can happen to you.
The food is grand, the atmosphere is electric and this joint may be topping the rest and is the best of the best according to many pundits, critics and self-proclaimed foodies. The hang-up is self-righteous attitude that one receives in atttempt to get some good squid. On the heels of an expansion, consideration should be given to modernizing the approach to improved service that will maintain and even enhance the electricity. In a world where people show less attitude starting revolutions against social injustice or going from rags to riches to make millions, Grand Electric should put things into perspective; they make tacos…..although they are pretty freaking good.
There’s an ongoing marketing campaign looking for salty, a cute little salt shaker who went missing when Knorr cut salt by 25% in their Sidekicks side dishes. His buddy pepper searched the earth looking for him and Knorr went as far as to offer the consumer 25K to find him.
Missing- Salty
Honestly, I don’t know where salty ended up but I think he is stuck somewhere on the island of misfits with a bunch of other items that have mysteriously disappeared from restaurants tables over the past few years. Long, long ago there used to be a carousel of condiments glued to tables containing recycled bottles of Heinz ketchup with a questionable upper crust and a peeling label, a half-empty squeeze container of mustard that magically never empties and a token three packages of tartar sauce with faded yellow edges and no expiry date. Instead, this contraption has been replaced by a floating candle, house made hot sauce or a centrepiece expressing the sadness and lament toward those who do not adhere to a locovore diet.
In all seriousness, salt and pepper shakers have gradually faded into oblivion like molten lava cakes and dandelion greens. Salt went first and despite a tough fight, pepper followed after a spell of confinement in large wooden mills controlled by smiling food servants keen to add the perfect amount to your pasta or salad. Chefs have taken the liberty of seasoning food perfectly, eliminating the need for table dwelling peasants to finish the dish based on their personal preferences.
Tap water has also vanished, replaced by “still or sparkling” or something identified only by Q water which flows from a draught tap, usually at a cost of three or four bucks a person. Fountain pop is almost extinct as the pednulum has swung from environmental protection to reliving the nostaglia of yesterday by selling premium sodas in bottles reminiscent of the thick horn-rimmed glasses worn by Uncle Fredrick and popularized again by the server cracking the top open with his tattoo-riddled forearm.
Bread baskets have had the biscuit…literally….replaced by baked goods full of buttermilk, jalapeno/cheddar or black olive and sundried tomato. Gone are the overly hard butter packets and ramikins of whipped butter. Instead, shallow bowls of organic oils with droplets of Modena balsamic vinegar grace the tables now.
A suggestion of brewed coffee after a meal often raises an eyebrow or two followed by a response along the lines of “Sorry, sir, we do not serve brewed coffee but I would be happy to get you an Americano”. I just shrug my shoulders and dream of the days when the Bunn machine was pumping out half-ass coffee much to the pleasure of Timbucktoos and ICCs (see Argueing with Venti Caffiends post for more details). I just can’t picture Phyllis the waitress of times yonder whipping up frothy vanilla lattes instead of ripping open a portion pack of coffee grounds and slamming the filter into the reinforced steel basket. Equally as sad is the removal of triangular desserts such as pies and cakes; they have been “deconstructed” or sentenced to death by consumption out of a mason jar.
The endangered Bunn coffee machine
In 1994, Quentin Tarantino’s Pulp Ficton unleased a pletheria of memorable quotes into pop culture. One in paticular was Vincent’s (played by John Travolta) proclamation about a milkshake, stating that “I don’t know if it’s worth five dollars but it’s pretty f”ing good”. Urbanspoon now defines a five-dollar shake as ” something that’s more expensive than its worth; even if its pretty damn decent”. Almost 20 years later, the five-dollar shake mentality reigns supreme and is rooted in the philosophy of many eateries. In other words, sell the customer something that is more expensive than it’s worth by using a combination of personal testimony (I order the fois gras gravy with everything on the menu…it’s especially great with the nicoisse salad) and creative vocabulary (aioli vs mayonnaisse, gherkins or cornichons vs pickles, tomato jam vs ketchup etc.).
Five-Dollar Shake
I understand that the restauranteering is a competitive business and that upselling is a necessary evil to ensure maximal profit margins and prosperity, but the alienation of the fundamentals of traditional dining (eg. salt shakers and complimentary bread and not messing with Grandma’s apple pie) is saddening.
Nestled behind Weslodge is the newest experiment by the same owners, Hanif Harji and Charles Khabouth. Many eateries in Toronto have adapted the small plate concept but few have tackled traditional Spanish tapas. In addition to the food, Patria (meaning homeland) has a decor showcasing beautiful art highlighted by a full tapestry along one wall, ceiling high windows along the other and modern fixtures and trinkets in between. The restaurant was bustling with a diverse and busy crowd but the noise level was not excessive. The service philosophy is reminiscent of my experience in Barcelona; quick and efficient. My water glass (even though she wasn’t too happy we opted for tap water) was rarely close to empty and the finished dishes were removed quickly.
Must
I’ve had some bad sangria in Toronto establishments which define it is as nothing more than watered down table wine with ice and a few orange slices. Patria returns this iconic drink to its rightful position, although at a price ($30/jug). The flavour was crisp and vibrant, accented by pieces of fresh fruit peppered throughout an abundance of ice in the glass (take this as a warning…ask for minimal ice in advance if you don’t like that sort of thing). As mentioned above, the service was amazing. I didn’t pour any of my own during the entire meal.
Sangria($30)
The ensalada de aguacate conqueso de cabra y membrillo was a delicious salad combining simple but quality ingredients (goat cheese, avocado, almonds) tossed in a fragrant quince dressing. Like a good tapas dish, it’s special in its simplicity, offering a freshness and crispness which is a perfect complement to the remainder of the menu.
Ensalada de aguacate conqueso de cabra y membrillo ($12)
The Pimientos Rellenos de Buey (oxtail stuffed peppers) topped the list of tapas choices. The sweet pepper was brimming with a deceivingly large amount of moist, well seasoned meat and accented nicely with salty, shaved manchego cheese, justifying the $12 price tag.
Pimientos Rellenos de Buey (peppers with oxtail)($12)
I’m a huge fan of serrano ham and the offering here lived up to my standards. It was fresh, fatty and not overly salted. I was possibly biased by the prep station on the way in, which showcased the preparation of the ham, which is shaved on demand. It was particularly good with the DO Murcia al Vino cheese and sourdough bread served with a chunk of quince jam.
Serrano Ham ($10) and Olives ($4)
On occasion, I get a craving for chocolate pudding. Perhaps this was the night, because I thoroughly enjoyed Patria’s offering. It was garnished with coarse salt and a sugar orb which you crack to release a small amount of olive oil over the pudding, adding a unique but appealing third dimension of taste and flavour.
Chocolate Pudding with Olive Oil Orb ($6)
Maybe
Fragrant saffron highlights the Garbanzo Con Espinaces (Chickpea Spinach Stew), a rather odd and less traditional tapas choice. The highlight of this dish is the migras (bread crumbs) which add a brilliant crunch to the otherwise textureless stew. Simply put, if you like saffron, order this dish.
Garbanzo Con Espinaces (Chickpea Spinach Stew)($7)
The patatas bravas con heuvos fritos (potatoes with spicy tomato and an egg) are a spin on the classic tapas dish normally served with an aioli but in this case also was served with an egg . In the first attempt, the egg was overdone but they quickly replaced it with a second which was much better. The potatoes were hot, the tomato was spicy. All in all, it was a decent dish.
Patatas Bravas ($8)
The pan con tomate with manchego seemed like a modified version of bruschetta as opposed to the traditional spanish dish which uses tomato as a seasoning (the tomato is rubbed onto the bread) more than a main component of the dish. I’ll be honest, I’m not a tomato fan but I’m also a bit bothered by the deviation from the traditional dish as well.
Pan con Tomate ($6)and Manchego Cheese ($8) with Quince Jam
I ordered octopus off the “specials” menu at a pricy $15. Seven bite size pieces were served on tender potatoes on a bed of olive oil and paprika. The potatoes were cooked perfectly, but the main event not so much. It was overcooked and therefore a bit “tough” to justify the price.
Octopus ($15) on special menu
The churros served with a dulce de leche were crunchy and soft at the same time and were decent but not mind-blowing.
Churros ($6) with Dulce de Leche
Mundane
The croquetas de manchego ( leek and cheese croquettes) are a spin on this popular tapas dish which are usually served stuffed with ham or chicken. The inside was a gooey mess of soft manchego goat cheese with only a hint of leek. A bit of spicy tomato may have helped salvage the dish but the rich and creamy aioli did nothing to accent the already rich and creamy croquette.
Croquetas de Manchego ($7)
In general, the service was fantastic but I was a bit bothered by the blatant upselling, whether it was a push for more dishes or more expensive ones. I was told that we didn’t order enough food and when I suggested that we could order again if we wanted to, the response was that they preferred to submit orders only once. Despite this fact, the dishes did not arrive in a fluid and consistent fashion and it would have been quite simple to order more as needed. In the end, there was too much food.
My Take
Patria reminds me of a spanish exchange student who has come over with the intent on sticking to their traditional roots but getting caught up in the ways of the locals. The pan con tomate became a dish similar to the bruschetta served by all the cool Italians down the road. The croqueta mimics the cheese sticks you can get at any roadhouse dwellers along Front St. Patria even wants to fit in with the carnivores, offering a $65 ribeye steak to match the likes of Ruth’s Chris. It’s a bit of an identity crisis. Even the service is a bit confusing, characterized by friendly staff, continuous water service and quick dish clearance while being upsold like you’re in a used car lot. Unlike its patria , Toronto’s Patria has certainly adapted to the Toronto restaurant scene, pricing most menu items on the high end of acceptable. Whether you stick will small dishes, pastas ($16-18) or the paellas (around $30), don’t expect a cheap evening.
In the end, despite the minor mistakes and issues, Patria worked hard to remedy any of the problems and overall I left very satisfied, reminding me that in the end a happy customer is a fundamental priority in this business regardless of what side of the ocean you’re on.
Fare..Eat..Ales 
