service – Page 2 – Fare..Eat..Ales

Review:Toronto:Cabbagetown:Kingyo Izakaya

August 19, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

Kingyo is like a vacation hotspot I never seem to get to. I see pictures of happy people eating pretty food without a care in the world plastered all over twitter. At the same time, I’m cordially invited to the join the party and indulge in the daily specials with the fun employees. I never seem to make it however. Maybe it’s the fact that I’m in town on business by myself and know I wouldn’t scratch the surface of the menu or I just didn’t want to head east all the way to Cabbagetown.

There is a time, however, when you have to ignore the temptation to choose another destination and just book the trip. So I picked up the phone and made a reservation for a friend and I. I announced my intention on twitter and received a resounding Yay! in return. All was set. I even pondered taking an Advil in anticipation of a noise level similar that of Guu or other Izakayas across town.

I haven’t walked much past Jarvis for a while. In fact, I think the last time I strolled down Parliament was when I used to carry groceries back from No Frills while living at Bloor and Jarvis in 1997. I’m not sure much has changed since then…except Kingyo of course. Upon arrival, we swung open the door and entered the oasis, a Japanese eatery carved out of an old brick building. It was buzzing but not overly loud with the main noise coming from a large birthday party. We were offered a choice of a table or the sushi counter facing the kitchen. We chose the latter and our choice was sung out in glee by the waitstaff. A pleasant woman arrived quickly and produced a business card, introducing herself as Akiho. I guess you could call her our travel agent for the evening.

Here are a couple of things to note about Izakayas:

1. The menus are enormous. There’s tofu, seafood, pork, beef, chicken, shellfish, spicy, salty, sour, rice, noodles, raw, cooked or raw and cooked. It’s like trying to choose between puffin watching, bike riding or a wine tour.

2. In many cases, you have to trust the waitstaff. That said, there will probably be one thing you get that you didn’t order. Call it fate…just smile, nod and eat it. It’s sort of like a foreign tour guide…you don’t always understand what they say, but in the end it’s usually an enjoyable experience.

3. Don’t be alarmed by excessive happiness or singing. You are not on Just for Laughs, in a broadway musical or expected to join a flash mob to Styx’s Mr. Roboto. It’s part of the experience…like salsa dancing on the deck of a cruise ship.

So, after examining the menu like we were studying for an SAT, the ordering began…

I love yuzu and a good gin and tonic. The three together were an automatic choice for a starting cocktail. It was presented without bells and whistles like umbrellas or lotus flowers. I sucked it back pretty quick, a testament to a good drink. Not a bad price either.

The first dish was tako wasabi, It was served beautifully on a stone plate with seaweed paper and a wooden well that Tinkerbell makes wishes in. If you don’t like wasabi, don’t order this. I’m not sure if the request for half cooked and half raw octopus was heard because it seemed all raw but it didn’t matter. It was a delicious dish.

I can’t turn down pickles…or pickels as it was spelled on the menu. Regardless, the pickles were presented nicely. A cute trio of onion, daikon radish and squash were presented in three distinct ways. Although each may not appeal to everybody, it was like a buffet in which at least one would appease any palate.

Since there were only two of us, the 3 kind assortment of sashimi made the most sense. I have seen the phenomenal presentation of the sashimi on other food reviews, so I was looking forward to a little visual magic. The plain, white bowl was a bit disappointing (it was like seeing a great hotel on their website only to find the real room a little drab). Maybe it was because I cheaped out and only ordered the three kind as apposed to 5 or 7. Although pricy, the sashimi, was delicious. a mix of delicacies stretching the pacific from BC to Hawaii to Japan.

Sashimi- 3 Kind Assortment 25.00 — Sashimi- 3 Kind Assortment
25.00

Next was the red tuna & black tiger prawn avocado tartar. It tasted exactly how it sounded. The sweet house sauce was a great touch, adding an unorthodox dimension to a normally rich and buttery dish. There was a substantial amount of tartar for the 4 garlic crisps..maybe a few rice crackers or other mediums of transfer would have been a practical touch.

Red tuna & Black tiger prawn avocado tartar $10.80

When it came to the meat, I was intrigued by the stone grilled beef tongue because it required me to cook it myself. Served with lemon, a hot sauce and and a savory oil, it requires you to slap some raw tongue on a hot stone and listen to the sizzle. The whole cooking process took less than 30 seconds (see below for my simple three step instructional). It was fun and delicious and each of the condiments added a contrasting sensory dimension to the salty meat.

Stone Grilled Beef Tongue $10.20- Step 1

Stone Grilled Beef Tongue- Done! — Stone Grilled Beef Tongue- Part 3

For those who like sizzle but not a little tongue, the stone bowl seafood sea urchin don is a smart choice. served with an array of seafood including prawn, squid, scallop and salmon roe. After presenting the attractive dish, the waitress mixed it for us as it sizzled against the bowl. The suggestion was to let it sit for a while so the rice could caramelize a bit. In the end, it’s a decent dish with a variety of texture and tastes, although with the ingredients, I expected a bit more of a pop.

Stone Bowl Seafood Sea Urchin Don $13.80

Stone Bowl Seafood Sea Urchin Don- Mixed

By this time I needed another drink so I ordered the signature gold fish cocktail. I enjoyed it…refreshing with a bit of a kick. As with the yuzu gin and tonic, I do appreciate $8 cocktails in this world of the numerous double digit offerings by other establishments.

The last dish was the Spicy Chopped Tuna Mango Roll. It’s inevitable that I order a spicy tuna roll every time I visit a place that offers sushi. Based on the rest of the menu, I wasn’t surprised to see that these rolls had a twist. The spice was moderate and tuna was roughly chopped to protect it’s delicate texture and taste, The tobiko was a appropriate, salty touch. The mango was fresh, bright and sweet but a bit overwhelming against the rest of the roll.

Japanese restaurants and good dessert can rarely be mentioned in the same sentence. but not all offer “famous” almond tofu. Touched with a cap of jasmine syrup and a belt of tart berry sauce, it had a silky texture and great flavour balance. The key was digging down to the bottom to experience all the complementing flavours in one bite.

The final touch was a couple of frozen grapes hidden among yellow flowers in a tiny vase. Perhaps picked by Tinkerbell or Pollyanna, they were a final reminder of the attention to detail and artistic flare that Kingyo prides themselves on.

My Take

The izakaya movement has hit Toronto, leading to a plethora of interpretations. Some have taken the boisterous, karaoke route and others have chosen to go down the route of creating dishes that look straight from travel brochures. Kingyo opted for the latter and attempted to create an oasis in an otherwise rustic and some would argue rundown and eccentric part of Toronto. Akiho brought us on a tour of wishing wells, hot rocks and bright flowers (although she did disappear for a bit). In a world of all you can eat sushi menus similar to all inclusive vacations, Kingyo offers a unique experience filled with good times, fun scenery and good food with enough variety to please meat eaters, pescatarians, vegans and the gluten intolerant alike. Plus, if you’re lucky, you may get serenaded by the wait/kitchen staff or actually spot a fairy hiding behind a mushroom or casting magic wishes in a tiny wooden well.

Review:Toronto:Entertainment District:Beverley Hotel

July 31, 2013August 1, 2013 spennyrd2 Comments

There has been much anticipation over the opening of The Beverley, a boutique hotel on Queen just west of university, Ever since leaving Hawthorne earlier in the year, Chef Eric Wood’s twitter account has counted down to the opening of the inn which features a restaurant and rooftop patio. I decided to give it a whirl despite the fact it still seems to be in the soft opening phase.

I was greeted outside by a smiling young lady who asked if I wanted some lunch. It was a little later in the day so seating was ample. I was seated at a shaky table adjacent to the bar. Almost immediately a friendly waitress dressed in black came by and asked me if I wanted a drink. There are choices from a snug list of new and traditional cocktails featuring no alcohol in particular. There’s cognac, bourbon, rye, gin, vodka, tequila, rum and pimm’s. There’s even sangria. I went “Old School” with a Pimm’s cup 335 selling, like most of the other cocktails on the menu, for $12. It was well done. As I was sipping away, it was apparent I was crashing a meeting with many of the hotel’s stakeholders (no worries, I had no inclination to listen in and heard nothing other than the occasional bellow of laughter). Shortly after, one of the gents got up and walked toward me in the bar area. For a second I pictured a scene from the Sopranos and figured he may throw me out ass over tea kettle. Well….not really. Instead, he gave me one of those “uncle Fred at Christmas” shots in the arm and said “get the burger”. Shortly after well…I ordered the burger.

Pimm's Cup #335 $12 — Pimm’s Cup #335 $12

Before the burger, however, I ordered the caesar salad which is something I rarely do. What intrigued me, however, was the fact it was made with dinosaur kale instead of romaine lettuce (although I suspect it was in fact baby kale). It was a good size and served with asiago cheese, smoked tomato chips and rye croutons. It like a traditional Caesar salad except was a little less crispy because of the kale. That said, the flavour was better and the risk of sogginess was missing. The tomato chips were amazing and adequately dobbleganged the traditional bacon. One suggestion (in my best Obi Wan-Kenobi voice): USE THE LEMON. One squirt of the wedge gave it the acid needed to cut through the sulphur of the kale.

At first I misread the description of the burger to say “pickled watermelon” instead of “pickle and watermelon”. One I noticed my error..well it didn’t matter because I ordered it anyway. I’ve told a few people since and they look at me like I’m a nuts. Well, it worked. Unlike a lot of other burgers, the patty was seasoned very well. It was a tad tough to eat given the large watermelon and pickle slices and the latter was the prominent taste, What made the watermelon work was it’s contrast against the tangy cheese (Guernsey is great on a burger) in both taste and texture. In the end, I pictured it as a juicy monstrosity in which the act of biting would squeeze Bordelaise sauce out of the patty like a sponge, forcing it to drip down my hands with mudpuddle messiness . Instead, it was a bit overdone, so I missed out on the adventure although it tasted damn good, The fries made me wonder if Eric’s recent trip to the West Coast had an influence on the menu. Kennebec fries are a staple out there and in my opinion, truly make the best fries. They also had a shot of crispy garlic chips but surprisingly were not served with any sort of dipping sauce. A house ketchup is available with the starter order, so I’m not sure if the omission with the burger was an oversight or planned that way. I actually think the house ketchup would have helped the burger too. Hey, it makes me wonder if the Bordelaise sauce would of worked on the side as an au jus for the fries as well.

Dessert seems to be a work in progress. There is no menu as of yet, but the kind waitress provided me with three options: a choice of two homemade ice creams (orange szechuan and malted barley), a couple of in house popsicles (I think pineapple jalapeno was one) and a smores dessert. With no concept of portion size or price, I asked if I could sample both types of ice cream. She said she would check with the kitchen. A few minutes later she returned with a defeated look on her face and informed me it was not possible because the ice cream was proportioned when prepared. A little perplexed, I opted for the orange Szechuan and realized I would have to satisfy my craving for malted barley over a pint later in the day. The ice cream was fantastic. It had the texture of silk, a rich taste but not an overwhelming heaviness. The brownie was decent but wasn’t needed because it wasn’t as good as the ice cream itself.

Orange Szechuan Ice Cream. $3. Charge me $6 and give me two!

My Take

Eric Wood is a chef who, in my opinion, is very friendly and open with his customers. He comments on blogs, answers tweets and is not afraid to make recommendations for other restaurants among other things. His new endevour is a little boutique mixed with a hint of hipster, sprinkled with a bit of West coast and dusted with a scent of his old gig at Hawthorne. It’s boutique in that it delves into cuisine which is veggie-centric and focuses on choices that include raw and gluten free dishes. The kennebec fries are very west coast. With his Hawthorne exodus, he brought the “4 Play for lunch” concept (app, salad, main, dessert) for $16. Both the drink and food menus have no defined focus which I find highly acceptable in an environment which has been populated with ramen, snack food and bourbon or tequila bars. That said, it’s far from a traditional menu as indicated by a watermelon topped burger and steak and potatoes made with beef cheeks. It will be interesting to see how this pans out. Will the menu be sophisticated enough to attract a boutique hotel crowd and yet be hip enough to draw in the curmudgeon foodies, especially given the fact they tend to stray away from pretty decor and gravitate toward tiny rooms that look like their parent’s basement apartment or a janitor’s broom closet? Maybe the rooftop will become the foodie haven as it appears to be focused on grilled meats a la izakaya (although it’s still Paleo I suppose). This paradox even resonates with the waitstaff. I saw a couple of staff drop in with back-size tattoos, presumably only to jump into sheer black dresses and assume an old school service model free of angst and pretension. Bravo!

In the end, I think the menu hiccups are growing pains associated with any new franchise. A tweak of the burger, a little ketchup with the fries and an extra scoop of ice cream would make me a happy boy. I know I can say this knowing that next time I drop by, the shot in the arm won’t turn into a punch in the face from anybody from the board of directors, especially uncle Fred.

Review:Vancouver:Robson St:CinCin Ristorante and Bar

July 18, 2013July 18, 2013 spennyrdLeave a comment

While in Vancouver, I had a business meeting in the private room at Cin Cin, an old school Italian eatery on Robson Street. I was shuffled to the private room which housed hundreds of bottles of wines, some at hundreds of dollars. Speaking of cost, expect to pay a pretty lira here; apps are $13-18, pastas start at $15 and entrees go from $30-45. Noise was an issue even in the private room. The only thing separating us and the boisterous outside crowd was a thin sheet of glass and a thick wood door that constantly opened and closed, allowing the drone of human banter to roll in like thick fog.There was a four course set menu featuring an array of choices for the appetizers, mains and desserts with a mushroom risotto as a middle dish.
I opted for tuna tartare to start. It was a large portion on the modest side of seasoning and acidity although I got the odd big chunk of salt here and there. The radish was a nice addition to add a bit of crunch to the otherwise silky texture.

The risotto was well prepared and seasoned nicely. The rice had a subtle crunch and there were plenty of tender mushrooms scattered throughout. It was served hot and it held its temperature well.

The sable fish was treated with the utmost respect, its delicate integrity preserved in the cooking process. Ever bite melted like butter in my mouth. The mashed potatoes were subtle and allowed the fish to shine. The kale was simply and perfectly prepared and added great colour, texture and a punch of bitterness to the sweet filet and creamy mashed potatoes.

I strayed from my normal tendency to order tiramisu for dessert and opted for a lemon tart instead. It really wasn’t a tart; it was served cold and with a side of strawberry coulis that brought me back to days of scraping the last morsels of baby food off the side of the jar and shoveling it into my kid’s waiting mouth. The tart as a whole had that “sitting there for a bit” taste.

There is pride in the service, characterized but constant wine and water pours by the head waiter who is as well seasoned as the risotto was. The table’s dishes were served by numerous waitstaff on a way that would make the Canadian synchronized swimming team envious. I received “Sir, that’s an excellent choice!” for each and every order I placed, an accolade I’m not sure was entirely deserved, especially in the midst of my tiramisu regret.

My Take

CinCin is a well established and expensive Italian restaurant promising good food, good service and good wine. The sablefish was spectacular and clearly the godfather of the evening. The rest of the food was more Godfather III. The decor is old school Italian villa; respectfully cheesy while embracing the dwindling art of old school service which is as much choreography as it is functional. However, there is no music for the dance. Instead there is plenty of noise which could become quite aggravating if you have anything important to say or hear…like how great my dinner choices were.

Review:Vancouver: Downtown:Black+Blue

December 9, 2012December 16, 2012 spennyrdLeave a comment

I have developed a stereotype toward steak houses. Whether it is Hy’s, Morton’s, Ruths’ Chris or the Keg, you can count on a few things:

A dim, stuffy, cigar lounge type environment.
A detailed description of the difference between rare, medium-rare, medium, medium-well and well done (followed by the fact that the chef recommends medium rare) from the tie-wearing, perma-smiling waitstaff.
A price tag suggesting that cows are an endangered species, especially when reminded that “sides are extra” but can be shared with the table.

For these reasons I don’t frequent them often. I can purchase my preferred cut of meat, season and prepare it my way for a fraction of the price. I was curious to see how Vancouver’s trendy Glowbal group would alter my expectations.

Well…they have cooler music.

Must

I opted for a terrific 12 oz striploin ($39). Perhaps I was mesmerized by the clearly visible, ceiling high, salt-brick, dry aging vault that sat 12 feet from me. It was seasoned beautifully, cooked to a perfect medium-rare, was bursting with flavour and served with a single green onion. I did appreciate the array of sauces served with the steak. Whether you like a rich peppercorn, fresh chimichurri or tangy steak sauce (my favorite of the three), the variety was appreciated with each choosing its own way to catalyze the beef’s rich flavour.

Maybe

I opted for a crab louie salad ($17). It had an aggressive garlic dressing which balanced the decent amount of sweet dungeness crab in the full-leafed salad which was garnished with a few cucumbers, slices of really ripe avocado, some shredded egg and one or two cherry tomatoes.

I was told by a colleague that the brussel sprouts were to die for, so perhaps there were stars in my eyes. In the end, they were a bit acid and salt happy, thrown out of balance by a little too much lemon and clumpy Parmesan respectively . A little sweet or heat would have made them more elite but in the end they were kind of neat.

Another over promise/under deliver item (this time from the waitress) was the “signature” Black + Blue butter cake. The cake was moist but it was a lot of the same with the imbalance favouring sweet and rich. Either some salted caramel or fresh berries for tartness would have been a welcome addition to this dessert from both a taste and aesthetic perspective.

Mundane

When I read Mac and Cheese with truffled cheese sauce as a side, I hardly expected four deep fried fish-stick-looking things served with a ramekin of over-truffled cream sauce. They tasted like they looked; greasy and boring.

My Take

Black + Blue is another example of a stereotypical steakhouse but adds a bit of flare with an upbeat and sleek ambiance. Did I mention the cool music? The steak was fantastic..the rest was ok. If I went back I’d have two choices. One would be to roll the dice on the oysters or the spinach salad (prepared tableside) or maybe the frites and broccoli. The other may be to stare lustfully at the salt cavern, order a steak as is, indulge in the sauces, chew on the flaccid green onion and grab a fry and a gelato on the way back to the hotel.

Mulling Moment

Review:Toronto:Downtown:Reds Wine Tavern

November 30, 2012December 16, 2012 spennyrdLeave a comment

Reds Wine Tavern recently underwent a metamorphosis in an attempt to appeal to a crowd outside of the confines of the financial district. With a 2-million dollar renovation and the recruitment of Top Chef Canada favorite Ryan Gallagher from Ruby Watchco, the new Reds promises an upscale yet casual environment to appeal to the Bay street traditionalist and the nomadic foodie alike. One of the highlights of Reds is the availability of over 75 wines by the glass in addition to the over 350 bottles.

I took a chance and asked for the chef’s table via open table with a few days notice knowing the chances were slim to none that I would succeed. However, I found it a bit annoying to not have the request even acknowledged either in advance or when I checked in at the venue. In addition, I had to wait at the front door to be seated since the remainder of my party (2 of 4) had not arrived. They were stuck in a line of traffic on Adelaide which was being diverted around yet another falling glass disaster at the Trump tower two blocks away. We were finally seated at a rather large wooden table in the back corner of the second level overlooking the bar below. I quickly realized we were in for a noisy experience when I heard six or seven guys hollering obnoxiously over a game of table shuffleboard with ties undone and drinks in hand. I felt like I was an extra in a whisky commercial. Well…sort of. Based on the amount of time it took us to receive any sort of service, I could of watched the commercial plus half a sitcom as well. A round of drinks eventually arrived and the food was slowly delivered afterwards.

Must

I must admit I was quite excited for a few menu items at Reds Wine. I’ve often imagined my own ideal restaurant menu and deviled eggs are definitely on the list. Better yet, it was a trio of deviled eggs ($11), each containing all sorts of add-ins such as crispy onion, seafood and even a delicious avacado and tender pea mixture. Based on menus I’ve seen online since, they may be like Cadbury Easter cream eggs; not around all the time but worth it when they are on the shelf.

The triple cooked smoked wings ($15) were braised with duck fat to facilitate a crispiness and flavourful skin while maintaining a tender and juicy flesh underneath. The two house made side sauces (especially the BBQ sauce) were a great match for both the crispy vegetables and the wings themselves.

There was a lack of consensus at the table over whether the chicken pot pie with fois gras gravy ($18) was a must or maybe but I’m writing the blog so I vote must. The pastry was light and baked golden-brown. The filling was brimming with flavour highlighted by the faint but evident taste of fois gras in a very distinct gravy and a array of fresh vegetables and tender chicken. The only issue was the scarcity of the stew compared to the abundant crust which I can forgive in lieu of the tremendous taste.

Maybe

Another item on my imaginary dream menu is a variety of caesars, so I pleased to see a small variety here. I opted for the charcuterie caesar ($11.50) which is a classic vodka caesar served with cool things like Tabasco barrel-infused tomato-clam juice and housemade hot sauce with a small side bowl of meat, cheese, gherkins and olives. The complete package was fresh and fun but the drink itself was pretty bland. Perhaps a bacon and tomato jam would of helped…

The fish of the day items (around $25) appear to be to the foundation of the menu, likely influenced by Ryan himself. I ordered the grouper but they ran out so it gets no points. I tried the salmon which was moist but under seasoned and lost amongst the abundance of green lentils and apple fennel slaw (the latter was quite tasty). The New Bedford scallops were large , cooked nicely and served on a pleasant fresh carrot puree with smoky bacon and some pistachio pesto. The dish blended well and gets a resounding OK which is more than I can say for missing grouper and bland salmon swimming upstream in lentils.

Salmon with Lentils and Apple Fennel Slaw

Three types of mussels were available and we opted for the tavern caesar variety. The broth was top-notch and the mussels were fresh, hearty and flavorful. The $18.50 price is a bit high but they do provide a nice start to a good meal although I’m not sure about the bread sticks.

The dessert menu only offers three choices for $8 each. As a table, we opted for the grasshopper parfait (in a mason jar, of course) and an apple tart. I wouldn’t say it’s must have but it would appease a sweet tooth if you needed the boost.

Mundane

My vision of an $18 lobster guacamole was a bit different than 15 upright nacho chips stuck in a scarce amount of lobster,a runny guacamole and a blob of sour cream. It’s not that the dish was terrible but if didn’t make me want to throw a flashy new $20 on the table and say thank you.

As mentioned above, the service started poorly and didn’t get a lot better. When we ordered wine to complement the entrees it just didn;t come and otherwise check-ins were infrequent. A chat with a member of the waitstaff afterwards left me even more confused as I was unable to determine from his comments if it was a bad night or if short-staffing is a general philosophy of the restaurant. It seemed both scatter-brained and laissez-faire and soured the overall experience.

My Take

The emergence of shows like Top Chef Canada and other food network shows have opened up diner’s eyes to some of the brilliant minds who define cuisine in Toronto and other metropolitan areas. This has allowed a flow of celebrity character into many of the establishments opening up across the country. Richmond Station in Toronto (Carl Heinrich), Sidedoor in Ottawa (JonathanKorecki) and Charcut in Calgary (Connie DeSousa) are all stamped with a hip, youthful flare, open kitchens and sophisticated menu which draws a diversity of clientele. Although the Reds menu synched with my imagination and met the grade, other than his name on the menu, Ryan’s presence seemed absent. The renovation to a relaxed environment has not trickled down to the waitstaff and service mentality. I will say that Reds realized their mistakes and offered a solution which, in the end, was satisfactory to our dinner party.

I was thinking….perhaps dousing the shuffleboard champion with a charcuterie ceasar from 20 feet up would draw in the resounding claps of the Wiser guys to provide a much needed personality boost to an otherwise stuffy environment. If anything, it would appease to the numerous patrons around me who felt like they were witnessing cantankerous behavior inside a glorified frat house….minus the copious and timely alcohol…at least upstairs anyway.

Review: Ottawa: Union 613

September 15, 2012September 15, 2012 spennyrd1 Comment

I was immediately reminded why I love Ottawa restaurants. No reservation, no room, no problem. The host quickly thought on his feet and offered me the end of a communal table providing I was done an hour later (a further amendment later allowed me to stay longer). A similar situation in Toronto might have left me walking out with my head down and seeking refuge at a hot dog cart close by.

Union 613 is located downtown away from the buzz of Byward market. The decor has a hip union hall feel, with lamp fixtures made of black pipe and wine bottles. The menu is what I would call “delicate southern food”, attempting to mimic flavours without the brawn of piles of chin dripping oversauced pulled pork or brisket sandwiches. George was an excellent waiter who provided prompt service, honest answers and a laugh or two. Oh ya..and boiled peanuts.

Other highlights include a small but current list of draught beer and a cocktail list which changes on a weekly basis.

Must

The fried okra with buttermilk dip was a perfect start. The okra was fresh and crispy, a stark difference from the normal sogginess of most fried green veggies. The batter was equally crispy and not greasy to the touch. Probably most interesting was the thin buttermilk dip. Finally, an understanding that the fact that dip is meant to enhance the taste of food, not mask it.

okra union — Fried Okra with Buttermilk Dip

I love the concept of the Berkshire swine. Deviating from the temptation to offer only pork shoulder in the form of tangy, slow cooked pulled pork, various cuts and preparations are offered, respecting other parts of the animal while still maintaining southern cooking styles and flavours. This night offered a nice sized pork belly served with a tart squash slaw. The pork was crisp yet tender and the slaw and fried sage were wonderful compliments.

union pork belly — Berkshire Swine-Pork Belly with Squash Slaw

As far as sides go, the cheddar and roasted garlic grits were as good as it gets. A spin on the traditional mac and cheese served at most southern restaurants, each bite brought a rich flavour and a contrast of smooth and chunky textures. The garlic taste was subtle and balanced.

union grits — Cheddar and Roasted Garlic Grits

Maybe

The brisket was slow cooked and very tender. The chipotle/coffee sauce maybe not be for everybody and I found it a tad overpowering, taking away from the beefy taste I have come to expect from brisket. The salsa verde was a great touch and tamed the taste of the sauce a bit. Please forgive the picture…I had a faulty camera.

union brisket — Bad picture of Chipotle Coffee Brisket with Salsa Verde

The lemon lime cheesecake parfait may have a polar following. After a meal of intense flavours, some people want to finish with a jolt of something sweet. This is not it. Instead, this is a large dessert characterized by a rich cheese flavour and heat from the cayenne coating the corn nut crumble. I found it quite delicious but not entirely what I expected.

lime parfait union — Lemon Lime Cheesecake Parfait

Mundane

When I eat an oyster, I’m looking for some acid, heat and/or salt. Despite the tobiko, there wasn’t enough of any these complementary flavours so the oysters were bland.

My Take

Union 613 provides good food with top-notch service. The menu as a whole pays respect to the foundations of southern fare but introduces innovative twists from appetizers to desserts. I would gladly return to try other dishes such as the crawfish boil or buttermilk chicken while at the same time anticipating new drinks, sides and of course fulfilling my curiosity about the Berkshire swine special, a curiosity only overshadowed by what’s really in the foot long I would be forced to eat when turned away in Toronto.

Review: Toronto: Queen West: The County General

August 15, 2012August 15, 2012 spennyrdLeave a comment

Hidden on the corner of Queen West and Shaw, this place is easy to miss if you blink, sneeze or text. Once you find it, the decor could be described as a chic saloon and is reminiscent of a number of other emerging urban eateries.

It may take a minute to get recognized, but when your existence is noted, you have the option of a table, the bar or the outside area which gives you a front row view of the sidewalk sporting a cast of interesting wandering characters with CAMH (the large mental hospital) serving as a fitting backdrop.

After being seated and listening to one of the waitresses flirt with the guy sitting a few seats down, I felt like either a third wheel or an extra in a match.com ad. When MY waitress finally arrived, I asked for her cocktail recommendation. She suggested the “County Picnic” which was humourously a mix-up between the “Sunday Picnic” and the “County Drive In”. I opted for the latter which a smooth bourbon based drink with a bit of cream soda that got better with each sip.

count gen county drive in — County Drive In

Must

Gone is the standard potato salad….replaced here with the Warm Potato Salad Supreme, a visually appealing offering of tender potatoes laced with flavours of mustard, saltiness and a creamy base better than mayonnaise. Even better is the fact that I can order a perfectly cooked a la carte fried egg to blanket it (or with any dish for that matter). I would highly recommend it.

count general potato — Warm Potato Salad Supreme

Maybe

The fried calamari tacos were a bit Jeckyl and Hyde. Although nicely presented, the grilled radicchio was a bit too brown and soggy on the edges. I took those pieces off. On the other hand, the remaining components of the taco blended well together and the calamari was cooked well. I was warned about the heat of the accompanying scotch bonnet sauce that was offered but I’m glad I took the plunge as it offered a different spice and flavor typical of the normal cayenne based hot sauces served with these dishes. The price point is a bit high as well ($15 for two tacos). Other places are serving similar tacos for $3.50-$5.00 a piece.

country general tacos — Fried Calamari Tacos with Scotch Bonnet Sauce

The dessert choices were minimal but the chocolate mousse was very acceptable and nicely presented. The fresh, sweetened strawberries were a great contrast in flavour and texture and a nice twist on the traditional dessert.

country general mousse — Chocolate Mousse with Strawberries

Mundane

If you have good food, be proud of it. Don’t let the need to maintain the laissez-faire Queen West attitude impair the patron’s dining experience. It’s ok to smile, recommend your favorite choices and pronounce it scotch bonnet, not scotch bonn-A.

My Take

Good food, not so good service. This place has a chance, especially if they continue their attention to detail regarding the food. A seasonal and changing menu would keep me coming back out of curiosity. However, if I wanted to pay for the cold shoulder, I’d hit up a Jane and Finch McDonald’s and order a 7 dollar combo instead of dropping 60 bucks here.