restaurants – Page 3 – Fare..Eat..Ales

Rockin’ the Casbah at Aziza

August 14, 2014August 14, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

I took a long cab ride into the Richmond district of San Francisco to have dinner at the Michelin star rated Aziza. It has an unassuming storefront and after you open the curtain inside the front door and enter the restaurant, you are transformed into a Moroccan casbah with a variety of tables and booths scattered throughout. I was there with a large group and they were kind enough to wave the need for a set menu since it was later and night and the kitchen could accommodate. Another thing I was impressed with was the huge cocktail list. Almost two dozen libations were on the menu, each highlighting a fruit, vegetable or herb. It was more difficult choosing my drink that it was my meal. Throughout the night I had three; grapefruit (absinthe, peychaud’s, bourbon), thyme (thyme, cayenne, dry vermouth, blanco tequila) and celery (sage, agave nectar, gin). I can’t say I had a favorite but they were all among some of the better drinks I’ve had this year. They were frightfully addictive and beautifully represented their respective eponym. My colleague ordered the concord grape (concord grape, elderflower, peat smoke, laphroaig scotch). I had a sip and it was memorable, complex and aggressive version of the equally assertive grape.

Unlike other places (including most Michelin star restaurants), the menu is not written in hieroglyphics, Gaelic or some other language that gives food critics erections. I will admit, my ego makes me a little reluctant to ask for clarification around a dish or try and pronounce something which would make my transient menu dyslexia apparent. Instead, Aziza uses terms like olive, short rib, beet and sturgeon to describe their dishes. Having said this, there is no compromise on the creativity of their fare. Take the amuse bouche for example. A trio of dip including hummus, yogurt-dill and piquillo almond were served with flatbread. The dish managed to hit the mouth with some authentic Moroccan flavours while teasing the tongue with hints of Greece and Spain.

Amuse Bouche- Hummus, Yogurt Dill and Paquillo Almond

For an appetizer, I ordered a dish which was simply called cucumber. It had all the components of deconstructed deviled egg. A soft yolked fried duck egg was served with was cucumber two ways; charred and carpaccio style. Spring onions and vadouvan (similar to masala) mustard completed the dish. I must say this is the first time I’ve had charred cucumber and I was surprisingly impressed. As a whole,the dish was a punchy interpretation of the picnic favorite and at $14, I thought it might have been the coveted golden egg.

I was pleased to see that the market fish of the evening was John Dory (not to be mistaken with John Tory who may be the man who will finally oust the large and in charge, arrogant, homophobic and obnoxious Rob Ford from the Mayor’s office in October). It’s not the prettiest fish, but it sure is tasty and there are many suggestions of the origin of its name. My favorite is a possible reference to the novel “An Antarctic Mystery” by Jules Verne. “The legendary etymology of this piscatorial designation is Janitore, the ‘door-keeper,’ in allusion to St. Peter, who brought a fish said to be of that species, to Jesus at his command.” (St. Peter is said to be keeper of the gates of Heaven, in Spanish it is known as “gallo” hence “door-keeper”.) So while I was able to feast on a fish rooted in religion, it came with all the sacred symbols of food-a-ism…artichokes, ramps, favas, fiddleheads and raspberries. The tithe was a pricey $29. The fish was delicate and moist and keep the overwhelming earthiness of the condiments at bay. The raspberries added some sweet and sour bite and some ruby red colour to the plate.

One of the reasons I chose Aziza was the reputation of multiple James Beard pastry chef nominee Melissa Chou. I chose the Vanilla Semifreddo with apricot sorbet, matcha and almond ($10). The crust was like buttery toffee crack. Don’t get me wrong, the rest of the dish was delicious but that crust will stay in my lingual memory for some time to come.

I ended the meal with a delicious spot of mint tea. Let me point out this was not a stagnant tea bag floating around a warm pot of water. It was a hot, steaming pot of real mint tea which went nicely with dark chocolates served at the end of the meal.

After Dinner Chocolates — Mignardise- Dark Chocolate

My Take

Moroccan food is a little mysterious. The flavours are a bit African, a bit middle eastern and a bit European. Most of my experience with this type of food has come from a recipe book and my red Le Creuset tagine, so I was excited to experience it in Michelin star style. Although I can’t verify the authenticity of the use of fiddlehead ferns or ramps in Northwest Africa, the dishes were diverse and delicious. The cocktails were creative and nectarous. There was an irony in eating a fish which is also named after one of Jesus’ disciples in a restaurant whose country of inspiration is 99% Muslim. As for dessert, it definitely rocked the casbah. Much like the 1982 song by the Clash with the same name which calmed Middle-Eastern tension (at least according to the video), I think the crust on the semifreddo alone could extend the ceasefire in the Gaza war. Ok, maybe that’s a stretch, but I’m just a believer that a good meal can fix anything.

Where in the World is Carmen Sandiego?…Probably at King and Shaw

August 3, 2014August 3, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

One of the advantages of having younger siblings is the ability to watch some of the television shows that you might not normally watch without getting beat up by your friends. Where in the world is Carmen Sandiego? is an example of one of these shows. Carmen was a master villain who directed her minions to steal world landmarks. She dressed in a trench coat and a wide brimmed hat to disguise herself. In the end, the villain would get caught by the astute contestants but Carmen would escape much to the dismay of the chief who was played by the late Lynne Thigpen. Even though I was an older teenager, I did learn a lot from that show. For example, it taught me that the Washington monument looked like a dildo and that Louvres is the one with the pyramid in the courtyard. In fact, I may have gotten an ‘A’ in geography because of that shifty laddie.

I have been keen to try Carmen since it replaced the space along Queen street that Caju used to occupy. Following the blueprint of Cava and Patria, it focuses on Spanish inspired tapas except in this case adds a few twists and turns here and there. We arrived at around seven to a quarter-full restaurant so getting a seat didn’t seem a problem. By 730, however, the place was full so I considered us afortunado that we got a seat.

Carmen has an impressive cocktail menu with a focus mainly on bourbon and tequila. I started with the Almodovar ($14) which was Bourbon, triple sec, lime, mint and olive oil. It was nice summer cocktail with fresh flavours which matched the acid and fattiness in some of the early dishes. Loved the olive oil.

There were a small group of us, so we ordered a docena of dishes to try the array of flavours that Carmen offered.

1. Pulpo Vinagretta ($8)

A cross between ceviche and an antipasto .The acid is sherry vinegar instead of lime and plenty of olive oil is used. Served with fresh bread, it was a delicious start to the meal.

2. Jicama con Aguacate ($8)

More Mexican than Spanish, these little morsels were a tasty bite of fresh flavours. I have a jicama fetish so I thought they were just delicious.

3. Marinated Olives ($4)

I’m not an olive fan but based on the feedback from the table and the visibly appealing presentation of different sizes and colours of this popular fruit, I’d say it was a good spent for four bucks.

4. Ribeye Pintxos ($14)

A delicious take on these Spanish snacks. The amount of beef was a little stingy but attractive and well prepared.

5. Carne Tartara ($12)

Hardly a traditional Spanish dish, beef tartare is a Toronto restaurant staple. This one compares well to the others in the area. Pickled ramps and cucumber accessorize the beef along an in-shell quail egg sitting atop it.

6. Patatas Bravas ($7)

These were a true representation of one of Spain’s most recognized dishes. Slightly sweet and spicy sauce was slathered atop a generous plate of crispy potatoes and finished with streams of aioli. Very enjoyable.

7. Crispy bread, fresh tomato spread and manchego cheese ($6)

Nicely presented, fresh, simple and authentic, this dish was a pleasant facsimile of the homeland favorite.

Crispy Bread with Tomato and Manchego Cheese — Crispy Bread, Fresh Tomato and Manchego Cheese $6

8. Pork Tenderloin

A piquant sauce beneath slices of nicely cooked pork tenderloin and topped with manchego cheese, this dish was simple but delicious.

9. Blood Sausage

Probably the funkiest dish on the menu, I enjoyed the nicely seasoned sausage covered in melted cheese. Surprisingly, blood sausage is quite a universal dish but I think very few of those cultures top it with cheese like you would escargot or nachos.

10. Quail

The versatile (and foodie friendly) bird was served with flavours including olive and almond. It was a well executed dish.

11. Galletas ($2.50 each) and Helado ($6)

I suppose you could call this the Spanish version of cookies and ice cream. Normally served separately, we decided on these as small and sweet ways to end the meal. No complaints. The cookies were moist and flavourful and not over sweet despite the use of dulce de leche and the rhubarb ice cream was a tart but enjoyable finish to the evening.

My Take

Carmen opened in the midst of the Spanish invasion and before the explosion of the small plate phenomenon in Toronto. It sticks to both the blueprint of traditional tapas with dishes like Patatas Bravas and Ribeye Pintxos but also offers “vanguardia” dishes with fusion concepts including Mexico and the Middle East. All in all, the food was above average. The vibe was a little quieter than some of the other eateries in the area which made for an enjoyable night of discussion instead of trying to speak over the bellowing voices of the in-house music. I didn’t see Vic the Slick , Patty Larceny or any of the other minions associated with the show attempting to steal silverware or the large painting of a woman (who I presume might be Carmen) off the wall. However, I thought I might have seen Carmen Sandiego herself lurking around the shadows of restaurant…but then again, maybe it was just Joanne Kates.

DDD:Toking at Tommy’s Joynt although Cheech was the Californian

July 31, 2014August 15, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

I was excited to drop into Tommy’s Joynt for an afternoon bite. Touted as San Francisco’s original Hofbrau, it has been serving a menu centred on carved meat sandwiches since 1947. They take pride in a no frills attitude and keeping prices low. In fact, the only three menu items over ten bucks are the famous Buffalo Stew, braised oxtails with pasta (served Monday) and braised lamb shanks with vegetables (served Thursday and Sunday). The hunks of meat sitting in the cafeteria style chafing dishes right inside the door while the rest of the place is a seating area complete with a bar serving local craft draught, international bottles and cheapish cocktails. The cast of characters ranged from young to old, regulars to tourists and hipsters to those with with artificial hips. The decor is a reminder that it’s been open for almost 70 years. Hundreds of knick-knacks fill the walls, shelves and any other square inch of available space. It’s like a yard sale on steroids. They’ve never changed their style, they just added to it. It’s like a timeline of post WWII Americana scattered all over the place.

Apparently Tommy’s is “Where Turkey is King” so I strolled to the counter and ordered the roast turkey sandwich for $6 along with a side of mixed pickled beans for $2.65. The guy behind the counter pulled out the bird, carved some meat off the bird and slapped it on a fresh baguette with a side of au jus. As magical as Tommy’s was, they still couldn’t solve the dry poultry issue. You can’t keep a turkey in a chafing dish and expect it to stay moist. That said, the au jus added flavour and moisture to the sandwich. The bean salad was pretty typical. I thought things like the barrel of complimentary pickles (complete with a sign telling you not to abuse the pickle pecking privlegdes) to the strategically placed mustard jars were a nice touch.

Turkey Sandwich $6 with Pickled Bean Salad $2.65

My Take

Tommy’s Joynt is a west coast version of a Hofbrau, a casual German eatery with focus on beer and food. Having no idea who the place is named after, I figured it might be Tommy Chong (of Cheech and Chong fame). Ironically, Cheech is the Californian (Chong is a good old Canadian). I mean, the psychedelic paint job on the outside, the easy access to copious amounts of food, some clientele that look like they have hot boxed a few million times and even the fact it has “joynt’ in the name makes my theory somewhat viable. In fact, after a drag one might relish staring intently at the numerous trinkets which populate the walls and shelves. That said, the food was reasonable, the vibe was good but it just didn’t give me the “high” some of the other Diners, Drive-ins and Dives did.

Food- 3.5 Guyz

Service- 4 Guyz

Vibe- 4 Guyz

Total- 11.5 Guyz

Why Can’t I Speak Easy at Speakeasy 21?

July 26, 2014August 3, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

By definition, a speakeasy is an illegal establishment which housed alcohol during prohibition. Since then, it is often included in the lexicon of terms used to make words like restaurant, drink and food sound cooler. Speakeasy 21 has recently opened in Toronto’s financial district and according to the webiste “is a Resto-Bar serving Contemporary Bistro fare with a large selection of custom crafted cocktails and spirits.” It sounded like an interesting concept so I coaxed a colleague into joining me for dinner.

Any difficulty finding the place among the concrete jungle of Adelaide St. was negated by the loud music which emulated from the smallish confines of the bistro. The tunes were audible from the sidewalk and got louder as we approached the front door. After checking in using my reservation, only remnants of the after work business crowd remained along with a spattering of random people including some creepy guy who sat by himself drinking what looked like diet coke while scoping the crowd. We were seated near creepy guy at a small bar table close to the open kitchen. The waitstaff consisted of a mosiac of men and woman who obviously took various lengths to mimic the retro looks of the 20’s and 30’s. For example, one waitress was sporting the curly blonde locks and make-up reminiscent of Mae West. Others wore the same outfit but looked more like they were attending a Jersey Shore prohibition party.

The music continued pounding which even made ordering difficult. Nonethesless, I started with a libation. Whether you want a martini, a mason jar or a drink on the rocks, it will run you $15.04. I opted for the Brown Derby and the result was a mediocre attempt at this bourbon based drink.

From the menu I started with the Bulgogi taco for $6. My first thought was that this better be a damn good taco, especially if you have the balls to charge me $6 for it. It didn’t live up to the price. It was seasoned nicely but was pretty safe. Although served with house made hot sauce, the small amount of condiments were a bit of a let down.

Next was the foodie mix salad (aka kale and arugula) for $14. It was James Bond at a McDonald’s….tasty and nicely but over dressed. There could have been a few more treasures hidden within the forest of greens although I liked the radish.

The tuna crudo ($14) was seasoned nicely with citrus and heat. It was arguably the best dish of the evening. The grapefruit, jalapeno and coconut atop the buttery fish created a bit of an orchestra in the mouth.

I was interested in the construction of the shrimp and chorizo sandwich so I ordered it. It was a $17 filet-o-fish topped with a hot dog. I don’t know what possessed me to order a sandwich with cheese on top of a formed shrimp patty but it really wasn’t appealing.

Finally, we ordered the butter chicken balls for $14. A bowl of three meatballs arrived swimming in a delicious gravy. I enjoyed the coriander and mango flavours as well.

My Take

Maybe I’ve been watching too many episodes of Boardwalk Empire, but my impression of a speakeasy does not consist of overpriced food and blasting music. Sure the show is set in New Jersey but I don’t think it means that your waitstaff can look and act like Snooky or Bow-Wow (or whatever her name is). The $6 taco, $15 cocktail and $17 dollar sandwich were disappointing. The butter chicken balls and tuna crudo were decent but still priced in the echelon of Steve Buscemi’s pocketbook. This place needs to decide what it wants to be; a retro hangout for overpaid suits with classic cocktails or a loud Moxie’s rip-off with half ass food served by pretty girls . Right now, it’s the latter. Perhaps it should be called Speakloud 21 because it’s the only way you can hear a damn thing.

Ironic eating as I Tip my Chapeau to the Big Ham (aka Le Gros Jambon)

July 6, 2014July 9, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

I love breakfast places. I don’t mean places that serve an array of croissants, scones and in-house baked goods. I’m referring to a place that serves hardcore, greasy spoon type petit dejeuner which push beyond the boundaries of eggs and bacon. I was on a recent trip to Montreal and during one of the boring sessions I was watching I started to flip through urbanspoon and yelp looking for an escape from the monotony of the day. I narrowed down the list before consulting with my buddy who lived in town about where to go. When he mentioned Le Gros Jambon, I quickly agreed and was on my way. The website didn’t rock my world by any stretch. It’s simply a freckled-face kid drinking a glass of milk with a link to a menu. However, it has great reviews and it was close so it made sense.

I enjoyed the Sunday morning walk through Old Montreal. A mosaic of pedestrians littered the street. After dodging clueless cell phone users and many spaced out shutterbugs, I arrived at the doors of this breakfast and lunch nook. It was bustling with people cramming in and slipping out but I managed to weasel my way in the front door. There were a couple of stools at the counter, so I was seated immediately. A look around told me this was my kind of place. It was set up like a 50’s soda shop that had been remade by somebody with a basement full of nostalgia including posters, retro advertisements and a mosiac of licence plates. Within a minute a pleasant waitress with no bias against anglophones came over and poured me a decaf. I gandered at the menu, skipped the burgers and sandwiches and went right to brunch. There were typical items like eggs Benedict and french toast as well as trendy items like huveros rancheros and fried chicken and waffles. In particular, I was interested in the mushroom toast which was described as “creamy mushroom sauce with smoked meat, two fried eggs served on toasted rye” which sounded perfect given it sounded like a nasty mess inspired by local flare. By sitting at the counter facing the open kitchen, I got to watch the meticulous and fluid construction of this interesting dish. First, the jalapeno-potato hash brown thing was dropped in the oil. Next, the eggs were cracked onto the flat top. The smoked meat and rye bread joined the party. Then, within seconds of each other, the bread, meat, egg and mushroom gravy were piled precisely on the pig shaped plate along with the aforementioned potato and a side of baked beans. It wasn’t the prettiest dish on earth but my taste buds didn’t care. Although a tad more gravy would have been sloppy fun , it was delicious.

My Take

When it comes to breakfast, I’m in for either a cheap diner-style spread or something a little more creative and unique. Le Gros Jambon is the latter. Instead of sipping French press coffee and biting into flaky pastries, devouring the mushroom toast with pictures of Mickey Mouse and a creepy freckled kid watching over me along the cobblestone streets of Old Montreal was as ironic as not eating a stitch of pork off a pig-shaped plate in a place named “big ham”. More so, the service was not at all pretentious, busting apart any stereotypes an anglophone in Montreal might have. In fact, it was as genuine as Mabel at the Streamside Diner speaking of her cat’s latest adventure with a ball or yarn or stories of her daughter’s success as the local hairdresser.

In the end, le Gros Jambon is a destination for foodies and which was built by smart culinary minds and those with a knack for interior design inspired by an outdated man cave. It’s has a busy, yet pleasant vibe complete with the ability to watch the cooks construct plate after plate in a melodic and methodological manner. For that I tip my chapeau to the big cheese, or maybe in this case, the big ham.

Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives: I Met a Hottie at Dottie’s

July 1, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

I must confess that I didn’t do a lot of research prior to showing up at Dottie’s true blue cafe . Knowing it was a triple D and within walking distance of my hotel in San Francisco, I took a quick look at the menu and thought it was a typical breakfast/lunch cafe known for corn bread and jalapeno jelly. My first hint that I had misjudged things is when I showed up at 9:15 on Thursday and there was a line. I figured what the hell, I stood in line at State Bird Provisions the night before for 45 minutes with great results, so a short wait for breakfast in another odd neighbourhood couldn’t be that bad, even among the numerous schizophrenic homeless people who walked by looking to teach me a life lesson. Since I was single, I managed to skip in front of 4 or 5 waiting couples and get a seat along the rail in less than 10 minutes. I felt pretty lucky having secured a second spot with a kitchen view in 2 days.

Shorty after, the seat became me became vacant and a woman I recognized from the line outside was seated beside me. It was clear she was a regular when half the restaurant said hi to her when she sat down. We quickly engaged in a conversation and I was able to get the following facts out of her:

The busy cook was the owner. He didn’t look like a Dottie.
The only time you can avoid a line is if you come during the week before 9 am. If you come on it weekend, count on it being a day trip.
The old style brick walls at Dottie’s are somewhat unique to San Francisco and were not damaged during the 1989 earthquake. I guess the three little pigs fable did have some scientific merit.
Dottie’s is known for it’s excellent baked goods (see sign below). I was told that a gentleman comes in every morning and makes them in-house. She pointed to a counter beside the kitchen where one could get any of the delightful treats to go.

The menu is large, especially when you consider the fact there is a blackboard full of daily specials including specialty sandwiches, frittatas, omelettes, french toast etc. With all the temptation, I stuck to my general triple D philosophy which inlcudes trying their signature item/dish coupled with something I really like. In this case, it was the louisiana hot link wth eggs served any style showcasing the grilled chili-cheddar corn bread and homefries with the jalapeno jelly of course.

It is very easy to destroy corn bread and this was probably the best I’ve had including restaurants in Tennessee. The jalapeno jelly was food crack (just to clarify..this was the hottie I met at Dottie’s and the not the aforementioned regular who was sweet but not my type). Even the homefries rivaled some of the nest I’ve had. They were tender and seasoned beautifully as also gave me a reason to use more jalapeno jelly. The sausage was middle of the pack but didn’t impair my enjoyment of the dish as a whole. Some of the best breakfasts I’ve had have been from recommendations of Guy Fieri. Dottie’s is right up there with the likes of Lucky’s cafe in Cleveland and Honey’s Sit and Eat in Philadelphia.

Louisiana Hot Link with eggs any style $9.50 served with chili-cheddar corn bread and jalapeno jelly

Following such a delicious breakfast, my eyes averted to the baked goods. I already knew a jar of jelly was coming home with me so I supplemented it with a coconut chocolate chip muffin ($3) and a Dottie’s peanut butter bar($5) as a snack for the hotel room later. They were neatly wrapped in foil grandma-style which made me think of Dottie since it’s such a grandma name. When taking pictures of these beasts, I put a fork beside them just to demonstrate just how big they were. Tastewise, they were delicious. The muffin was moist and abundent with coconut and the tasty base of the bar was covered in with marshmallows and just the right amount of buttescotch chips. I was thinking of inviting the whole floor over since I would have had enough for all of them.

Dottie's Chipotle Pepper Jelly $9 — Dottie’s Chipotle Pepper Jelly $9..a buck an ounce…cheaper than crack.

My Take

I think the foundation of a successful breakfast/lunch spot is to offer a normal menu and jazz it up with either a signature item/dish, amazing baked goods and/or a day to day menu highlighting whimsical ideas by the chef based on available ingredients. Dottie’s does all three. The corn bread and jelly was phemonemal, the baked goods sublime and the board was “chalked” full of inventive dishes. San Francsicans love their lines, but they also love their food. The service was as friendly as the diners who frequent the place. The vibe was busy, fun and friendly. Based on past breakfast expereinces, I was convinced I would name my next pet Lucky or Honey but after eating here I may need to put the name Dottie in the mix as well.

Food: 5/5 Guyz

Service: 4/5 Guyz

Vibe: 4.5/5 Guyz

Total: 13.5/15 Guyz

For a complete list of my favorite diners, drive-ins and dives, please click this link:

https://fareeatales.com/2012/12/22/diners-drives-ins-and-divesthe-list/

Turning Over a New Banana Leaf: A Delicious Primer on Malaysian Food

June 7, 2014June 8, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

It’s always funny asking people what they want for lunch. When you spend copious hours mulling over restaurants experiences, you get a reputation as the go-to guy. Here is an excerpt from a typical discussion with a friend or colleague:

Me: Where do you want to go for lunch?

Them: I don’t know. You’re the foodie. You pick.

Me: Well, tell me what you like.

Them: I’ll eat almost anything.

Me (with slight look of annoyance on my face): Do you like Malaysian?

Them (with “I have no idea what Malaysian is” look on face): Ya, sounds great.

Me: It’s kind of like Thai.

Them (with look of relief on face): Oh! I like Thai.

Now that that was decided, I trekked a few blocks from the hotel with a couple of colleagues for lunch at the Banana Leaf, a small Vancouver chain featuring fare from the South Asian country. Geographically located along the spice route, Malaysia has a rich food history, influenced by near neighbours China, India and Thailand with a touch of input from the numerous other European countries which touched it’s soil during world expansion. They rely on local ingredients but also import wheat and other staples.

The Banana Leaf is a small Vancouver chain which focuses on Malaysian cuisine. The menu is quite expansive, reflecting the aforementioned diversity of the country’s offerings. I went twice during a recent trip to Vancouver; once for lunch and once for dinner. For lunch, we opted for the safe newbie option of the tasting menu consisting of some of the more popular dishes. Here’s the summary…

Green Asian salad

This sizable starter was a pleasant mix of tropical flavours including pineapple, papaya and coconut dressed in lemongrass vinaigrette. Very fresh and delicious.

Spring Rolls and Roti Canai

Appetizers with the neighbour’s influence of Malaysia fills this plate. The crispy spring rolls and the delightfully chewy roti were served hot and served with sweet chili and coconut curry sauce respectively.

Rendang Beef Curry

Considered a festive dish, it’s a celebration of coconut and curry gravy surrounding tender beef. It was very well balanced with a nice kick of spice.

Gulai Seafood

The vibrant stew with fusion flavours mixing turmeric with classic South Asian staples including ginger, galangal, lemongrass and tamarind. The abundant proteins were cooked delicately, leaving the fish and shrimp tender and delicious.

Sambal Green Beans

Chili and shrimp paste provide the base to this classic Asian dish. Garnished with tomato and peppers, it was attractive and tasty.

Pisang Goreng

Fried banana and ice cream was served atop an absolutely delicious gula melaka (coconut palm sugar) sauce which had a sweet and bitter taste reminiscent of a good creme brule or a Mexican flan.

Quick Take

Perhaps the craziest thing was the fact that all of this food was $18 a person. I’m accustomed to tiny, expensive portions in a tasting menu but the sizes of these meals were far from “tasting”. For the value, it’s arguably one of the better meals you can buy.

A few nights later I went for dinner…..

Green Papaya and Mango Kerabu ($8)

Another delicious salad consisting of a cornucopia of Asian flavours including the title fruits with cucumber, carrot and jicama combined with sweet, sour and salty flavours of the dressing and fish sauce respectively.

Malaysian Spicy Papaya Seafood Soup ($6)

Hinted of Tom Yum but with bursts of sweetness from papaya right in the soup with a nice level of heat.

Pineapple Fried Rice with Seafood & Chicken ($15)

Visually appealing dish that didn’t quite match in taste. It could have used a few more of the promised accessories (sunflower seeds, raisins, shrimp etc.) but it sure is pretty.

Sticky Rice with Grated Coconut & Gula Melaka ($7)

Having already experienced the deliciousness of gula melaka (see above), I was keen to try it combined with coconut rice. The toasted coconut was a great addition from a taste and texture perspective. Once again, it was reminder that Gula Melaka is like nectar from the gods.

Dessert — Sticky Rice with Grated Coconut and Gula Melaka $7

My Take

It is evident that Malaysian food is a mosaic of ingredients with ingredients heavily influenced by neighbours and past travelers looking for the same spices which filled many of the dishes served here. The $18 for the “tasting menu” lunch was ridiculous (in a good way) and included mountains of delicious food. The dinner dishes were also reasonably priced. My colleagues, each with a different capacity to consume copious amounts of food, seemed impressed. For the most part, the service was prompt (although a little slow and confused at dinner although I think one of our waitresses was in training) and courteous and the decor was simple but classy. Banana leaf is a small Vancouver chain offering a lesson in the diverse and delicious fare of Malaysian, a cuisine often overshadowed by its more popular neighbours. I’m just spreading the word.

My Annual Pilgrimage to Richmond Station with an RSV.

April 20, 2014April 20, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

Despite all the eateries in Toronto, I have to visit Richmond Station at least once a year. In fact, I like to brag about it so I usually bring a RSV (that would be a Richmond Station Virgin) to try things out. On this occasion, it was a lunch visit with a colleague of mine from Alberta who was in town for the weekend.

There are a couple of things I’ve concluded about Richmond station. First, I don’t like sitting in the bottom part. It’s a little too congested, you get the constant aggravation of people coming and going and I’d much rather watch the performance in the kitchen versus that of the bar. Second, I always get excited about the chalk board specials which are daily whimsical creations from the creative mind of Carl Heinrich. They have a small but solid menu which regularly changes but always includes oysters and the Stn. Burger.

We got there on the heels of the lunch rush so we still could benefit from the $19 prix fixe menu, featuring a lobster bisque as the starter and a braised veal sandwich. I’ve had the bisque here before so I highly recommended it to my lunch mate. As for myself, I had my eye on the burger and matched his bisque with the mushroom consomme. Served with a soft boiled egg and seasoned with sesame. I might almost suggest it was undersalted but this is coming from a guy whose definition of consomme for 20 years was something that came out of a red and white can. Piercing the egg to release the saltiness of the yolk helped.

The stn. burger remains one of Toronto’s best (as well as one of the more expensive). The patty is designed for medium-rare to medium which allows for great moisture and flavour. Without the need to mask the meat with an abundance of toppings, the burger is simply served with aged cheddar and a few other fixings beside a heap of delicious fries and a ramekin of aioli (I’m not an aioli guy so I’ll take the fifth). I don’t get the beet chutney which is served more like a garnish than a palate pleasing partner. Nonetheless, it’s a delicious burger that remains in the conversation for best in the city.

At Richmond station, dessert is not an afterthought. Available as a $5 add-on to the prix fixe menu, it evolves with as much as a cutting edge mentality as the menu itself. Take “movie snacks” for example. If memory serves, it’s a combination of chocolate cake, almond brittle, cola wafers, popcorn ice cream and twizzler puree (a clever mix of cranberry and Pernod). Smart, stunning and delicious.

Movie Snacks ($5 add-on to $19 lunch prix fixe menu)

My Take

I’ve thoroughly enjoyed Richmond station since it opened shortly after Carl Heinrich won Top Chef Canada 2. The convenient location (unless you’re trying to park), casual environment, great service (including the fact they take reservations) and a small but relevant menu (enhanced by daily inspired chalk board creations) makes for a great dining experience. The biggest issue may be the fact that your favorite dishes disappear and get replaced by a sunchoke, a chestnut or whatever new culinary trend that emerged. That said, I don’t doubt that anything new would be as tasty as it’s predecessors. Don’t take it from me… at time of posting it was number 1 on tripadvisor. I guess I’m not the only one deflowering RSVs.

East Thirty-Six: Breaking Down the Yonge Street Wall

April 19, 2014April 20, 2014 spennyrd2 Comments

A riddle…

Q. Why did the foodie cross the road?

A. He didn’t.

This is a dumb joke but one that reigns true when we speak of Canada’s longest street. Yonge street is a bit like the Berlin wall. On the west side a vibrant dining scene. Queen, King, College and Dundas are lined with dozens of hipster havens. The east side, however, consists of a bunch of restaurants compartmentalized into chains, fine dining and student friendly venues. It’s like there’s a force field of some kind which repels plastic-rimmed glasses. There are a few hipster oases in the otherwise barren east but for the most part there’s work to be done before the wall is torn down.

Wellington road east is proxy to a number of upscale condos which have tenants who prefer suits to plaid. It is also within walking distance of venues such as the Sony Centre for the Performing Arts. As a result, bahn mi sandwiches and pulled pork tacos aren’t an automatic go-to. Instead, restaurants in this area need to offer refined yet current fare or offer a unique enough concept whereas to not be a dreadful bore and keep people coming back. Places like Trevor Bar and Kitchen and C’est What have had longevity whereas Lucien and the Olde Towne Bistro and Oyster bar had shorter lives.

East Thirty-Six now occupies the old quarters of the above mentioned restaurants. It’s first plan of action was to name itself after its address, a witty move employed by numerous others recently. The second was to adopt a menu which focuses on innovative cocktails and small plates as opposed to the traditional three course meals the east side aristocrats are accustomed to. The focal point of the interior is a large bar which is stocked with a variety of alcohol (including house-made varieties) larger than Lindsay Lohan’s minibar. Otherwise, it is a classy and well designed east side bar and bistro.

In addition to a panoply of the most current wines (New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, German Rieslings etc.) Eat Thirty Six boasts an impressive cocktail list with emphasis on and fruit and fruit-infused liquors ranging from $12-14. I had read about the high touted E36 smoked Boulevardier, a spin on the classic yet rather unknown cocktail from the 20s. Called a cousin of the Negroni, E36’s version includes a bit of Lillet Blanc and some smoke tincture. The solution is allowed to conflate for a number of weeks to create an elixir which is as smooth as a gossamer. Frankly, it’s the best cocktail I’ve had this year. I’d equate to it any dish which is allowed to sit and marinate versus being callously put together and served immediately. There is no rawness or disjointed flavour..just a general smoothness enhanced with ethereal undertones.

E36Smoked Boulevardier $14 — E36 Smoked Boulevardier $14

To date, the menu has been classified as french tapas. I asked the owner about this and he said this wasn’t intentional. A small plate concept was definitely the intent, but the influence of chef Brent Maxwell resulted in a seeping of French influence into many of the dishes. Take, for example, the pork caillettes. E36’s version of these sausages are bite-size morsels stuffed with among other things pork and liver. Served like a hors d’oeuvre, each well seasoned bite was a pop of all things porcine. I also ordered some mixed pickles ($4) which made for a nice starter.

Pork Caillettes $9 (Note: Cameras don't work in the dark) — Pork Caillettes $9 (Note: Cameras don’t work in the dark)

The scallop crudo ($14) was little Italy meets Mexico. It takes the sweetness of scallop and the richness of lardo and dresses it with tequila and lime. The rather unorthodox addition of celery added a little texture and taste that worked. It didn’t present with the intensity of a ceviche but had enough of an acidity to cut through the lardo and provide a nice reprieve from some of the heavier items on the menu.

Speaking of heavy, we went to the bottom of the menu for our dishes. My colleague and I decided on the short rib ($21), duck confit ($19) and boudin blanc ($18). That said, all three dishes were delicious choices. I think I can summarize them with one word: balance. The short rib was nicely accompanied with brussel sprouts, parmesan grits and horseradish. The duck leg was rendered down nicely and served with egg, mushroom and semolina. If anything, I would have switched the starches because I think corn/duck and beef/wheat pair better together but that may be a bit of a moot point given both dishes were rather delicious. The boudin was an modish interpretation of the sausage in that it used elegant ingredients such fois gras and tarragon. The additional of the apple and cabbage didn’t make it any less pedestrian.

Boudin Blanc $18 — Boudin Blanc with cabbage and apple $18

For dessert I ordered the lemon custard with shortbread and macadamia ($8) while my colleague ordered another plate of caillettes. The custard was nice and tart and was served with an impressive number of (hopefully foraged nuts… AND it was served in a mason jar. Pure hipster bliss.

Lemon Custard $8 — Lemon Custard with M academia nuts $8

My Take

On the heels of the short lived Olde Towne Bistro and Oyster bar, E36 has moved into a tough spot with an attempt to fuse modern food and drink trends with the principles of upscale casual dining this area of town is accustomed to. It can best be described as small plate with french influence although there are a number of surprises on the menu. I wasn’t able to try the bone marrow (served with chicken liver pate), razor clams, sweetbreads or octopus nor one of the other 10 interesting cocktails, many of which frolic with fruit or tinker with tinctures. The decor is clean and modern with a beautiful well-stocked bar as its centrepiece. The service was great but it was a slow night so it would be interesting to see if the conversation and attention to detail continues with a busier assemblage.

East Thirty-Six has a name, a menu and a cocktail list that would appeal to any hipster. I mean, think about it. Pickled cauliflower in a mason jar? The dish alone contains three of the Huffington Post’s 22 essential hipster foods:

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/04/15/hipster-food_n_5146632.html?utm_hp_ref=fb&src=sp&comm_ref=false

So, does this mean we finally have a place that would allow the tearing down of the Yonge street wall, finally allowing the two sides to dine together in harmony while eating offal pork sausage and drinking bourbon concoctions? Probably not. After all, there’s no need to worsen the carbon footprint as long as there’s kimchi, kale and PBR on the west side I suppose.

The P & L Burger: Recognizing Big Boy as the Original Hipster

April 16, 2014April 18, 2014 spennyrdLeave a comment

Parts and Labour’s offspring, P &L burger, was in part due to its performance on Burger Wars, in which it beat out rivals Burger’s Priest and Dangerous Dan’s to claim supremacy. It opened its doors recently near Queen and Spadina, only a few doors down from Burger’s Priest and in an area with an ever increasing number of fast/snack food options. Upon entry, I was greeted by a young lady with modern enthusiasm who quickly took my order. Fifteen minutes later, almost to the second, my number was called and I proceeded to the counter. The cook was as cool as his facial hair and engaged me in a very pleasant conversation about the weather, cycling and growing up in Windsor, Ontario…a far cry from the less than enjoyable service I often receive from other places in the area.

Let’s do a quick historical recount of the evolution of the burger culture in the United States. It would be hard to argue that the Big Mac is not one of the most iconic and recognizable food on earth. In fact, economic models use the cost of a Big Mac to standardize the state of the economy across the globe. The brilliance of the Big Mac lies partially in the use of a secret sauce to add some tanginess to the other layers of flavours one would associate with a burger. The Big Mac was “invented” by a Pittsburgh franchisee in 1967 who developed it to compete with the Big Boy (developed circa 1937), the flagship burger of the restaurant of the same name. The Big Boy is a three layered burger, served on a sesame bun with all the fixings including a special sauce (sound familiar?). Once a presence throughout the United States, Big Boy still exists although primarily within the state lines of Michigan although a few still exist in Ohio and California.

What struck me the minute I tried the deluxe was the fact that I was eating a hipster Big Mac. It had most of the components with an extra emphasis on the the huge beef patty, which was cooked a juicy medium-well. The P&L sauce was an excellent condiment and resembled the special sauce that made the Big Mac famous. The cheese was melted nicely and crispy bacon pieces lined the thick patty. It was a big, sloppy and delicious mess. Consuming it did make me wonder why too many other burger places haven’t made an effort to mimic one of America’s favorite and most recognizable foodstuffs. As far as the sides, I found the fries rather soggy and the slaw unappealing in both colour and taste.

Somewhat Soggy Fries (plus $3 with drink)

My Take

Not only did Big Boy invent the saucy burger, I argue they invented the hipster. I mean, look at the mascot:

1. He wears checkered clothing.

2. He has a clean side part and a a flip in the front.

3. He is wearing light blue shoes.

4. He has that “I’m cool because I’m about to eat a burger” look on his face.

Now McDonald’s stole the Big Mac concept but alienated the hipster concept and instead introduced Ronald McDonald in 1963. The famous clown (which apparently has 96% recognition in the USA), was created by Willard Scott (yes…the same Willard Scott who gained fame as a Today show weatherman). Since then, there have been eight actors who have portrayed the famous clown and none of them have worn, plaid, plastic rimmed glasses or parted their hair to the side.

Willard Scott as the original Ronald McDonald- This would be enough to make me a vegetarian

P&L has created a DELICIOUS burger which competes for the best under $10 in Toronto. The sauce is the key, adding a tangy cut through the richness of the thick beef patty and accompanying melted Amercian cheese and bacon. The bun is terrific and the condiments are as harmonious as the Big Mac song itself. The fries were soggy and the slaw was unremarkable. You’re likely in for about a 15 minute wait but I think it’s worth it (after all some people in Toronto have no issue waiting hours for a stool tucked in the corner of a popular snack bar). Now that I’ve read a bit about burger history I realize that in fact the classic sandwich is the perfect food for the modern day hipster; you can dress like Big Boy and act like a clown.