Perhaps it’s the fact that NHL expansion did not occur in the Southern states until after the reign of Harland Sanders that somebody didn’t dream up combining fried chicken and doughnuts. I mean, a chance meeting with Tim Horton might have changed history.
Fried chicken and doughnuts have one thing in common…a deep-fryer. Other than that, it’s an odd combo. Then again, being situated beside a pulled pork serving gas station on Queen East makes it a little less strange.
It seems Paulette had a vision to not only combine but modernize these two classics. There is little “original” about either the doughnuts or the fried chicken. Sure you walk in to an environment with an old school feel characterized by a walls painted with a seemingly discontinued paint colour and very pleasant employees dressed in dapper whites reminiscent of the colonel himself , but one look at the offerings transports you into the present. I don’t remember Raspberry Rose or Mojito doughnuts displayed in between the Boston creams and Dutchies in the old smoke filled Timmy’s.
Must
The doughnuts are good. It seems like all of the doughnuts have the same moist, rich white cake as a base but the icing pushes the limits of sour, sweet and savory with a delicate balance. I liked the sourness of the blueberry balsamic and mojito doughnuts although preference would be based on individual taste.
The hot sauce was a pleasant surprise, filled with flavour and balance. Ironically, I can think of 20 other things I’d use it for other than fried chicken but it hits the mark.
Maybe
The fried chicken may not be for everybody. It is crispy and not greasy. The pieces are smallish. It’s fried in sort of a confit style so the skin and not only the batter accounts for the texture. It bordered on dry which I’m not sure is due to the cooking style or the fact that it was served out of a heating cart and not directly from the fryer.
The Mac and cheese is a decent side dish. Not the best I’ve ever had, but it was tasty with a subtle kick .
Mundane
A doughnut is $2.75. A small half chicken with a side is $15. I wanted one of each donut and the modern colonel was quite pleased to tell me I didn’t have to pay tax since I bought 6. Yes…but a half dozen still cost me $16.50. That would buy me a lot of Dutchies. Here’s a tip. If you need to thank the government instead of your establishment for a discount, you may want to rethink things. In general, things are overpriced.
My Take
It’s a unique concept with unique food done well. Price point is a bit high. They should consider selling a half dozen variety pack for $12 or something in that range. As for the chicken, it’s not cheep..cheep…cheep. I fear these doughnuts may go the way of the dinosaur or the cupcake. It won’t be due to a meteorite but more likely a mass realization that overpriced baked good trends have a finite shelf life. Red velvet anyone?
Fare..Eat..Ales 